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SOUP card and tatted rope pattern
Playing
around. See, I don’t need friends to distract me; I do well enough myself !
Looking
for ways to use up your little bits and pieces of tatted lace, medallions,
learning or trial pieces, mistakes, etc.? Another SOUP* (Sewing On/Using Pieces)tatting card. This time I placed little pieces over the larger medallion.
Haven’t glued them down yet, merely playing at a good composition….
This
is where it all started – made the lower motif for a tutorial and then used up
the leftover thread for the upper ring.
In
time for Diwali and other festivities – an idea in time saves a dime ;-P
ËÌËÌËÌËÌË
Now
that Ninetta has tested it, I want to put the pattern out, since I want to get back
to other projects. She has also tried another variation/modification of this SR
method (I will update with the link later), as well as a whole range of other
techniques and will be blogging about it over the next few weeks at least. Keep
an eye out – this is just the start!
Tatted
Rope Bangle/bracelet/kadaa
generic pattern
The
pattern can be adapted to suit your choice of thread and beads. I am merely
giving the main process – adapt as you will. You can increase the number of
colours, or decrease; change their placement to create new designs, …. And the length can determine which piece of jewellery it can become. Play!
If you wish to practice without beads First, try this tree trunk pattern here.
MATERIALS :
Size 20 crochet cotton.
2 shuttles.
Picot gauge (I used 7mm but 6mm is
sufficient)
Crochet hook (I used #12 to load
bead on long picot)
Bicone crystals in 4 colours – 2mm.
With 18x4=72 crystals, this
prototype is 4 inches long and about 1cm wide.
Choose
one colour beads, and load half in one shuttle, the remaining half in the other
shuttle. Wind shuttles ctm (continuous thread).
The
remaining 54 beads will be later inserted Over the long picot, at the time of joining, in the colour
sequence desired.
NOTE : Length of long picot
and number of stitches between these is determined by the size of your beads
and the amount of thread you want visible.
- : measured or long
picot (6 or 7 mm in this case)
B+ : load bead on long
picot of previous (lower) ring, and join upper ring. I count the join as 1st
half stitch, followed by 2nd half stitch.
SR : split ring ; R
: ring
SS : switch shuttle
Sh1
: R : 2 - 2 - 2 - 2. Close. SS and move bead from Sh2 to base of ring.
Start next SR with Sh2 keeping
bead OUT of loop.
**Sh2
: SR : 1 - 1 B+ 1 - 1 B+ 1 - 1 B+ 1 / mock picot 1. Post Sh1. Close.
Leave some bare thread before
working the 2nd side of SR (as in a mock picot, equal to the
height of the bead).
SS
and move bead from Sh1 and start next ring with Sh1 following same process **
Repeat
** to ** for desired rows, switching shuttles and moving bead from that shuttle
to the base.
TIP : It becomes easier to
work the split ring if, after the 1st double stitch, we work the 2nd
side of SR (which is only 1 stitch) and then continue back with the rest of the
first side. (Thank you, Ninetta)
TIP: Post shuttle : If the shuttle that is used for 2nd side
of SR is passed through the ring before closing, the bare thread from mock
picot is not visible, ie., keep the shuttle INSIDE the loop. It may cause a bit
of twist in the ring, but is of no consequence.
TIP : If you wish to join back to starting ring, seamlessly/invisibly, tat the 1st ring as follows : 1(-1)×7. The 'free' picots can later be used to load bead and join to last ring.
Insert
required findings/clasps for jewellery. Or simply tat one last ring and curl it
around the first ring to complete the circle.
It
gets easier and easier as one gets into the rhythm. So if a bead-challenged
person (ahem, I) can do it, you surely can! Give it a try ….
