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What can I say?! So many comments in response to my previous post ... besides my blog, I had asked the same question in two FB groups and my own FB timeline. Received a range of answers from a spectrum of tatters. So instead of simply updating the post as previously intended, I decided to write this separate post and cover all points. But firstly I'd like to apologise for my tardy response - life has this habit of getting in my way, and also for the length of this post.
I] Most commentators misread or misunderstood my question (or perhaps I need to improve my English writing/questioning skills ;-D). Most answers referred to HOW to shape the ring into desired shape. I will try to share all tips, answer questions, etc., in no particular order -
1. Define Central Ring - According to Elgiva Nicholls' classification, it is an enclosed space medallion, a ring with many picots, at the center of a formation such as rosettes. The next round is attached to these picots which divide the pattern into equal segments. It is such a common starting point in vintage patterns (and sometimes even used as fillers) where the thread was cut off after making the ring. Later, of course, false picot and/or mock ring replaced the true ring so that one could climb out for continuous tatting.
2. Post the Shuttle - for a rounder version. This has never worked for me. I post the shuttle only in backside or RODS rings after ending with an extra 1st half-stitch. My trials and experiments. So, in my samples, since both rings were tatted frontside, I did not post the shuttle.
3. SCMR for Roundness - This is true BUT it needs two threads whereas the example I showed is a single shuttle/thread model. This can be seen in the bare thread between the two rings.
4. Closing the Ring - Several comments focused on how they close their ring to attain the desired shape. The above sampler by Anita Barry employs both the movements outlined below.
Shape and Pinch: While closing the ring, bring the two ends together, hold in pinch and close the ring in desired shape.
Direction of Pull: Further, if core thread is pulled downwards, we get a teardrop, while if it is pulled to the left (for right-handed tatters), a rounder ring emerges. In my samples, I closed both rings exactly the same way -- I did not 'pre-shape' under the pinch, and I pulled the shuttle thread downwards and very slightly to the left (which has been my go-to for decades).
5. The Tension of Tension! - The tension while pulling the shuttle thread to close the ring can reflect on the shape of the ring. The tension of stitches can also affect the amount of play the core thread has. Are stitches just a wee bit looser in a highly picoted ring than when only a few picots grace the ring?
Conscious: A ring closed too tightly results in a teardrop shape and when closed "more loosely" can result in a rounder version.
Subconscious: A couple of comments pointed out perhaps our subconscious works differently while closing a picoted ring as compared to a plain ring (including the knotting of stitches). It is certainly possible! Brains work in mysterious ways, don't they? Or perhaps our muscle memory wasn't trained meticulously enough ;-D
6. Pull into Shape - This is done after closing the ring. I agree that if a regular teardrop is tugged outwards with gentle fingers, it can become rounder. Yet, in my opinion, the type of thread and the tatter's tension also play a role. And blocking was also suggested. Both my samples were fresh off the shuttle without any finger-shaping or blocking. However in the new sample above I pulled the middle ring for a rounder shape.
7. The Pull of Additional Rounds - When new rounds are joined to the central ring, it pulls the ring into a rounder shape. Agree, but my samples were free, unattached.
8. Twist of the Thread - Perhaps the S or Z twist in a thread affects the shape of the ring. It, however, does not apply if tatted with the same threads at the same time, with the same shuttle. The bare thread between the rings is evidence.
I think this covers all the HOW answers. And, I believe after working new samples, that some subconscious pull and tension might partly be accountable for the shape of my rings. And I used Anchor knitting cotton size 10 for the old green and new blue samples which is twisted less tightly than the yellow samples done in Anchor mercerized cotton size 20 below which is relatively stiffer and holds its shape better despite any attempt to post-shape. Also I don't bring the ends of ring together to pre-shape before closing, which leaves more room for the structure to take its own natural shape.
II] Now to the WHY part which was my main question. My theory pertained to the presence of a lot of picots and I even sought hubby's help in trying to tease out the exact physics behind it. The following listing is chronological.
A. His response was that the outer edge of the picots creates a larger circumference than a picot-free ring in relation to the inner edge, which tends to pull the structure outwards, hence the rounder shape. This was similarly echoed by some respondents.
The 3rd blue ring with picots on one half was hubby's idea. However, more tests with larger rings might be required to reach any conclusion or visual cue.
B. I was happy to see many identified the presence of picots as a major factor. The picots provide extra thread between stitches which might "ease", "relax" or "give permission to" the movement of stitches away from the otherwise tight squish of a picot-less teardrop. This was my contention, too, before I asked hubby. Some also pointed out that the picots circumference gave an impression of a rounder ring even if the inner edge remained more teardrop-ish.
C. Barbara A was reminded of her teacher who was an engineer and the maths behind it is that each picot acts like another ring. So basically there is an outward pull or one can say a mix of pulls, leading to a rounder ring. She shared this short video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y87yq5E4Ok0
III] On The Side Lines
i) Mary A asked "
Have you ever wondered why Josephine rings are always beautifully circular... until a tatter tries to put picots on them?" This is my understanding - JRs are inherently small-ish spiral rings made by repeating the same half-stitch. Unlike double stitch which is 'balanced' due to mirrored 1st and 2nd half-stitch, the spiral stitch is made of only the same half-stitch hence the inner edge circumference is way smaller than the outer edge, resulting in an almost perfect circle. {the horizontal bar is broader than the vertical leg of any half-stitch or double stitch}
When a picot is added, it causes a disruption and the inherent tendency to spiral becomes more pronounced affecting the smooth roundness. You can test this by tatting a larger JR where the spiraling effect becomes evident as in a Josephine chain and gives an indication of the picot's behaviour.
Hope this makes sense? Jump in ....
ii) Round Split Rings were mentioned by some. There are books (by Karen Bovard) where she explains how to make a rounded SR. Goes to show that we can shape any ring as desired using specific means and pre-planning. Remember Square Rings?
iii) Gimme a Leg Up! Now here's an interesting issue that emerged when Anita Barry tatted up samples using paracord and her hubby noticed that the legs of the half-stitches seemed a bit different. Is there a "dominant" and a "recessive" leg?! Obviously the movements of tatting the 1st and 2nd halves are different; does our subconscious hold the reins differently?
Phew! Since everybody has been so forthcoming and enthusiastic with their input I will end this post with a few more possible factors to ponder ---
- Thread size;
- Thread type;
- Individual Tatting Styles - so many nuances that can affect our tatted lace;
- Very Small Joining Picot which may stretch the ring,
If you have managed to read this far I am truly thankful. And my next post will have a cute little heart pattern to relax from this avalanche :-)))
Many many thanks to all you wonderful tatters for chipping in with your experience and advice! This is how the community grows, evolves, and flourishes.
