Friday, 19 October 2018

picot join to the right part 3

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(concluding part)
Common Threads - SET VII : the 'right' picot join 

Picot Join to the Right – Part 3
Terminology & Range
fig 1 - projects with the 'right' picot join

fig 2 - rosette
As beginners some of our first shuttle-only flowers and butterflies have free rings – a cluster of closely tatted outward facing rings. The next stage is when the adjacent petals are linked through picots and we learn the picot join. Easy - the joining picot is to the left of current work. And then comes the last petal/ring (7th ring in fig2) and we have to join it to the first ring. Huh! How to link it to the first petal?! How to reach through that picot without ending up with a twist or with a locked/snagged core thread?

There are many ways, and just as many terms, 
but the core principle/factor remains the same –
the linking picot is to the right of the element being worked.

fig 3 - more projects with picot join to the right
A great deal of tatted lace returns to the starting point before tying and cutting ends or climbing out to the next level. It could be a motif, medallion, doily, or even edgings on a fabric. Sometimes this linking back is through a picot on the first element(s).  Google any of the bold terms for an array of tutorials (add ‘tatting’ to the term). Some resources are listed here.
Last to First Join refers to this aspect – the last element linked back to the first element through a picot. It can be between 2 rings, 2 chains or a ring and chain.
Most frequently we apply this linkage to close a medallion in a circle.
Joining in a circle/in the round is another term for this final linkage arising from traditional medallions before the invention of the tatted chain. Medallions made of a cluster of linked outward facing rings were commonly called a rosette or flower (fig2). Hence Mary Konior also called it the Rosette Join.

As frequently mentioned, it is not just difficult to reach that joining picot, but there is a tendency for it to twist after linkage has been made. The following terms are based on the movement required to make that linkage.
Twisted picot join – where the picot is pre-twisted before pulling a loop through it for linkage, thus pre-empting or neutralizing the twist when completed.
Folded Join – where the work is folded in such a way as to reach that ‘pesky’ picot.
Avoiding the Folded Join – a simple reorientation or rotation of work results in avoiding any folding or twisting by bringing the linking picot to the left of work.
Riego Join is yet another term (coined by Teri Dusenbury) referring to the same join found in Mlle Riego’s books dating back to the 2nd half of 19th century. A long tail is cut, slipped through the picots, and the last ring is finger-tatted. Thus the linkage is made Before the ring is tatted.

The above list seems to suggest a fairly small range where this join to the right comes into play.
Not true! The following tatted models show us numerous circumstances where we have used the ‘right’ picot join. 
And to make it playful, try identifying that join to the right in each medallion or motif (click on image for larger view or on blue link for respective post)

          Does it have to be a circle?
Let us not take the ‘circle/round’ term too literally. It largely refers to closing/linking back to the start, not the shape. Shape is determined by the elements.(eg. the triangle in fig1. The 5-ringed flowers in this bouquet give a definite pentagonal outline. The 4 rings in the center of the cross clearly form a square or diamond, acting as a scaffolding. (figs 4 & 5)

          Only single or a cluster of rings?
Rosettes have very closely placed single rings. However, a larger, more open medallion, or an edging, when joined back on itself, may need the same join. 
And not just single rings, but a cluster of 2 or more rings can  be joined back. eg. the pair of rings in Butterfly Squares/Edging (fig6) or the last ring in a clover or trefoil (fig7)

          Does the join come into play only with outward facing rings?
Not at all, though most resources tend to focus on rosettes. The following examples have inward facing rings, but need to join the last ring to the first through the picot that is on the right of current work (fig8). 
In the Clover Wreath Poinsettia there are inward facing clovers. Last 2 rings need to be joined to the first 2 rings. But the last green ring on the final chain is also linked in same manner! (fig9)

Not just single, but multiple rings can need the join! And not just one but more linking picots within the same element may be involved.
The vintage edging with bare thread space has both inward and outward facing rings and since it is closed, the starting rings were on the right of the final rings (fig10). In the Quatrefoil medallions the number of inner rings reflect the overall shape of the polygon and the rings are bridged by split rings (ie. we move from one inner ring to the next via a split ring instead of bare thread or chain). Each of these needs the join for both the inward & outward facing rings (fig11).

          Does the join occur only between rings? 
In this medallion, the linkage takes place between the inner yellow rings as well as the first and last blue chains (fig12).
Again, there may be multiple linkages. Can you identify the ring-to-ring and the ring-to-chain links in the Classic square (fig13) ; Or the final chain-to-chain link in the snowflake? (fig14)

          Layered and 3D formations
Why stop at only 2D tatting? Tatting around a button, cabochon, gem, shell, doodad, may all end up with a last picot join to the right. 
Whether around a button, or around a gem for a ring, the final inward facing ring clearly needs to be joined back. The popular Ice Drops require the join both on the front and back. And even the final curled ring is linked back around the shell. (fig15). In the ANKAR-style earring not just the large blue rings, but the curled rings also need the picot join to their right (fig16).

          Is it always the final/last join? 
Again, No.
In both the part 1 & part 2 pictorials, as in majority of tutorials, the thread(s) end up at the front/above the work. It does not matter as usually the work is ending and after the threads  are snipped off, the tails can be repositioned as desired.
But there are patterns where one may need to continue further and hence both threads need to be on the same side - either at back of work or in front - as in the Curly Cross pendant (fig5) or this 3D flower (fig17). 
In the one-pass snowflake, ‘Celeste’ (fig18), each arm has rings that need to be linked to their right, and work continues! So ‘last to first’ is no longer applicable! 

I hope these projects provide a glimpse into the diverse usage of the join to the right, and why a generic term like ‘picot join to the right’ is more applicable than the smaller windows provided by other terms. Nevertheless, whatever term (or movement) is used, one should now be able to identify with ease, where and when the ‘right’ picot join is required. No more scratching one's head even if the pattern instructions do not specify it !!!

Sunday, 14 October 2018

a slave to urges

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I’ve been pretty lethargic these last few days – picking up the shuttle and/or Cluny loom for short durations only. Reading, watching tennis, and now housecleaning (Not my favourite urge, mind you) seem to occupy my time more than my passionate urge to tat. Oh, and I fought my urge, staying completely off the grid for a couple of days - detox, perhaps?

But I couldn’t resist the urge to tat this latest from kukkatatting! It’s her 94th scmr medallion and I love the picot flowers all around giving the snowflake a flurry look. Except for the ones on the tips, the picot flowers are linked to each other, and I missed out one attachment. 
Worked in size 40 thread, it measures over 7cms across. I hope she does not mind me copying her pattern. In case of any complaint, I will delete this post with due apologies.
After a few days of musing, here’s how far the Scrappy doily has come. I absolutely Loved all the advice I got (thank you once again, gracious tatters/crafters), and it has guided me in this round so far.
I started by sketching an outline of the 4th round (which you may remember was ovoid), and then sketched a couple more lines around it to balance out the asymmetry. 
Also, I increased the size and number of rings at the starting end to overcome that missing ¼th inch. I haven’t needed to add too many additional rings along the side, though. Let’s see how it turns out. I’m enjoying the figuring out process, without applying high-end mathematical calculations ;-P

And a couple of weeks back I did finish sewing in Jane McLellan's leaf braid edging on to my MIL's saree. I didn't want to end up with all the sewing in one go (blossoms motifs and edging together). This is actually a pic taken much earlier.
Meanwhile, I Have finally made the Cluny Butterfly and will share it once I finish writing the pattern. Lots of trials and friendly feedback, but may still need to be test-tatted, so get your shuttles and scrap threads and Time ready for a request :-D

Tuesday, 9 October 2018

I need help

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So you may remember that I’m trying to make my Scrappy doily oval instead of round. This is round 4 completed.
Now I’m not really going for pristine and perfect here – it’s simply a fun relaxing recycling project. Nevertheless I would surely like the doily to be oval And keep it’s shape throughout. I’m hoping it ends up as a doormat - it is already pretty dense and stiff and some fabric below will make it durable.

Question #1 - How do I achieve it? 
I made the end rings on both rounds slightly larger. But the Rnd 4 ones on the left bottom (in pic) are larger still. I got it to look ovoid there. The other end, though, has a wider arc. I will make the rings large in Round 5, hoping to repeat the left side. 
Will it be sufficient? Any other suggestions before I begin?

Question #2 – Provided I am satisfied that the oval is symmetric, Should I continue with normal rings in later rounds? Will the oval shape continue? After all, I cannot keep increasing the size of rings ad infinitum.

From round 3 onwards, I added a very small picot for attachment so that I have a decorative picot overlying the next round (as seen after round 4). I kind of like it.

The 2 threads you see emerging after each round are because these are mock rings (scmr), not normal rings. I have only one shuttle filled with white thread; the coloured bits are all loose scrap threads - they come and go ;-P

I've not decided how to fill the center yet, but no hurry there.
At the end of 4 rounds it measures 3¼ x 2¾ inches, but one side is ¼" longer than the other. All Anchor size 20 thread.