Saturday, 22 September 2018

twist n twirl, spiral n swirl

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doily tat-along and pictorial
Completed the tat-along a week back but too many presentations swirling around in my compy vying for attention! Without much ado, let me 'jive' in ….



Swirling Butterflies Tat-along 

I made a few tiny tweaks and here are my notes –

1. Treble as a twisted picot : The 2nd part of a treble is actually just a twisted picot!!! Well, well, well. I tried it on some of the tds. Pictorial at the end.

2. The double leaves : It is a very clever design where the leaves are asymmetrical but with graduated segments – from 3ds through to 6ds - creating a swirl of their own!
But my conjoined double leaves just wouldn’t stay flat. Finally I settled with a ring of (3+3) and 2nd ring (4+6), leaving them unattached to each other.

3. Bare thread under the butterfly. My little indolence served 2 purposes :
visually, I felt that the entire body on the twig made it seem more like a caterpillar ; tatting the butterfly was normal - only the double stitches of 1st & last trebles were encapsulated (2 core threads).
And instead of 3 shuttles,  I used a ball and shuttle,  ctm, for green, and 2nd shuttle for pink.

4. An idea – one can make the butterflies separately (single shuttle only – see here) and join to twig normally. Which means, we work the twig with shuttle and ball only! But the butterfly will need 2 picots on core thread held by paperclip.

5. Long picots made and snipped for the antennae.
6. Mutilated Wing – I made only 4tds on the wing instead of 5tds. I did not count the TJ (treble join) as a tds, hence the goof-up. Some of the butterflies look like elephants to me! If I hadn’t blogged, it would’ve gone unnoticed even now ;-P

7. Directional or fs/bs tatting: My way of doing the treble backside is simple – only work the ds part of it backside, keeping the rolled part as usual. Ninetta shared her method here. Always good to have choices!

8. Measurement : Worked in Anchor size 20 threads, the doily works to 4” with butterfly ; and 3” if one leaves out the butterflies.

9. Techniques used : fs/bs tatting, tds (treble tat stitch), spiral rings, floating/thrown rings, encapsulation (direct tatting with unflipped stitches), 3-shuttle tatting (I used 2 shuttles and a ball).

10. Spiral Rings : I believe the best effect of tds is in these spiral rings!


This new stitch is really catching on J 
The fun part is that it can do Everything that a normal double stitch does - 
including half tds, padded tds, and picots of all kinds !


For those who consider the treble a bit of a mystery, perhaps it’s similarity to a twisted picot will help? Most of us know of or have done the twisted picot. So, here’s how we can use the same movements to make the 2nd part of a treble tat stitch !!


Treble Tat Stitch worked as a Twisted Picot
or
Twisted Picot In the Treble Stitch !
Click on any image for enlarged view.
This is a alternate method of working the 2nd part of a treble stitch. 
It can be used as an eye-opener to show the 'common threads' running through 
seemingly different tatting techniques.  

4 tds can be seen on a chain, of which the first 2 were made normally 
and the next 2 were made using the twisted picot method/movement.
See Twisted Picot video here.

 1. Start next tds with a double stitch

 2. Pull loop through picot (not shown), tighten and pull another loop through it.
BUT do Not pass shuttle through this loop.

3. Twirl shuttle and Twist loop ! 
Now here’s where the twisting starts and the direction is very important. 
Hook/hold the loop on the shuttle and
rotate the shuttle clockwise like a ferris wheel – 
moving towards us from the lower side and away from us on the upper side. 
The loop gets twisted once.

If we rotate in counterclockwise direction, this is how the tds turns out -

 4. Repeat this movement again and now there are 2 twists in the loop.

 5. Repeat this movement a 3rd time so that we have 3 twists in the loop.
Keep the loop hooked at all times to avoid untwisting.

 6. Now pass the shuttle through the loop. 
This is the tricky part since the loop should open up sufficiently to allow shuttle to pass through.
If needed, tug the loop to lengthen it.

 7. Start pulling the ball thread to close the twisted loop. 
Then pull the shuttle/core thread to tension the stitch.

 8. Treble stitch all snugged and complete using the twisted picot method!

 9. 3 more trebles made in similar manner.

This method works well with this size 10 knitting cotton as well as Anchor size 20 threads. Does it work equally well for finer threads? Try it and let us know J


That’s it for now, but I am super excited to show you my perfect Cluny leaf – finally happy with it – and absolutely no colour blips on either end. Will share the trick soon. 

Thursday, 20 September 2018

colouring the Cluny

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The current Cluny tatting series has covered how to wind the loom and weave tallies where the loom and weaving threads are either the same colour or different colours. For many more tips, ideas, and possibilities, refer to my earlier series and posts.

We now come to the original purpose of this series – multicolour Cluny leaves or tallies – a glimpse of which you saw here last year.

As usual, let’s go progressively… 2-coloured Cluny tatting. For 2 colours to show on a tally, we will actually need 3 threads – 1 for the loom which is hidden, and 2 for the stripes that are visible.
Adding more threads allows us opportunity to play with colours for the next Cluny leaf or element(s) in a pattern.

I chose to work on a cardboard loom, weaving with a tapestry needle especially when using multiple colours. The process itself is simple, but some management of threads is required as we increase colours (threads). If we choose a flat surface to place our loom while weaving, and lay the unwanted thread on the side, it avoids tangling and weaving can be done comfortably.

To repeat – this same method works on a box loom ; and in any pattern a split ring can be substituted with a regular tally/petal/leaf, and a normal ring with a hanging Cluny leaf.

  • How to add new thread (knotless method)
  • How to hide tail of new thread
  • How to avoid the colour blip from loom thread
  
Two-Colour Cluny Tatting


Loom/Warp thread - mustard ;
Weaving threads – Colour 1 on the right – green; Colour 2 on the left – pink
Sequence of weaving : green, pink. Colours alternate after each wrap/weave, giving a striped appearance.

You can try different visual effects: from regular stripes to broader bands to random, and from broad to hanging Cluny leaves.


1. The previous element (split ring) already has 2 colours – mustard and green. 
We will add a 3rd thread (pink) while weaving the tally.
Wind the loom as usual, with 3 Warps.
Bring green to the right (Under, Over) and leave pink on the left side.

2. Make 1 pass to the left with green (Under, Over, Under),
place pink over the green ….
(as mentioned in previous post, you can choose your own style of weaving)

 3. … and make the return pass to the right (Over, Under, Over), trapping the pink within. 
Leave a pink tail to be hidden later. 

 4. Snug and tamp down the weaves before proceeding.
Notice the new thread is captured within on the left side.

5. With pink thread, move to the right (Under, Over, Under) …
Scroll to end for 2 ways to hide this new tail. 

 6. … and back to the left (Over, Under, Over)

7. Pick up green and move to left (Under, Over, Under), and return to the right.

8. Similarly, make another weave with pink moving to the right and back to left.

9. Continue, alternating the colours as desired, and shaping the tally as you go.
This tally has 15 wraps and threads are back in their original position.

10. Pass both needles through the top loop, back to front.

 11. Both threads are through the top loop. This will hide the loom thread colour.

12. Top loop pulled off the loom and start closing the tally.

13. Top and bottom loops of the loom are closed.

14. One 2-Colour tally made.

To hide tail of new thread :
Needle the tail and weave it through the back of the tally. 
If we weave under the green thread, then the tail will not be visible at all. 
Snip off excess.

See also tip #12 for hiding tails here and Dagmar’s video here. : In pic #5 above, fold the tail behind to align with Warp1. Then, weave as normal, incorporating/encapsulating this tail within. After a few wraps, the excess tail can be snipped off. 


Next in this series is a 3-coloured broad Cluny leaf (4 Warps), and hopefully a practice pattern for these 2-coloured tallies.

The only 2- or 3-coloured Cluny tatting I have come across is by the talented and prolific Dagmar Pezzuto. In both cases, she has worked hanging Cluny petals or leaves. The principle remains the same. You can find all her Cluny patterns through Georgia’s site here.



… to be continued

Clunied !

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2-Tone Cluny Bracelet
aka 
Ganga-Jamuni bracelet

This bracelet is based on the basic Cluny tatting with colour variation pictorial. I chose these 2 colours in order to complement the beads I had – notice the subtle colour striations? And the name was chosen accordingly, though it’s Indian name could be Ganga-Jamuni bracelet – symbolising a fusion of colours and techniques (taking off from a fusion of Hindu & Muslim cultures symbolised by the rivers Ganga & Yamuna).

One can work it in one colour with no need to think of where the shuttles should be. Working with 2 colours brings a degree of interest and apparent complexity since one has to ensure the colours are switched correctly. I’ve employed various little tricks to smoothen the transition between colours, as seen in the process pics. I make the ‘switch’ within the previous element itself. But it is all optional – you can work at will, using SLT if you like.

Materials :

·         2 shuttles (or needles)
·         Anchor size 20 thread in 2 colours 
(I used the light 00366 in shuttle1 & the dark 00896 in shuttle2).
·       Seed beads : 14 beads size 16/0 per repeat. 
For 8 repeats load 112 beads. String 56 beads in each shuttle.
·        2-tone beads : 1 per repeat (+1 for end) size 5/0. 
For 8 repeats, 9 loose beads required.
·         A Cluny loom of your choice.
·         A crochet hook to load the loose beads.
·         Findings for the bracelet.

Techniques :
  • 2-shuttle tatting ;
  • Add findings ;
  • Lock stitch (1 unflipped half stitch; 1 flipped half stitch)
  • Under-Over or Alligator join ;
  • Slope and roll join
  • Cluny tatting ;
  • Working with beads.
Measurements :
3 repeats (including beads) = 5 cms long
Final bracelet (end to end): 1½cms wide and 7 inches (<19cms) long

Abbreviations :
          Sh – shuttle ;  vsp – very small picot ;  b – seed bead

Pattern
Pre-string 56 seed beads on each shuttle and join both shuttle threads.
All tatting is done from the front, progressing from the left to right end.

With Sh1 -
End Ring1 : 10, with finding.
Join Bead.
With Sh2 - Lock stitch to hold bead in place.
Wind loom with Sh1 and weave tally with Sh2 …
Tally: 12 wraps. Emerge from the right side, hiding the colour blip. This ensures that the shuttles automatically switch positions.

With Sh2
Chain: vsp, 2 b 2 b 2 bbb 2 b 2 b 2 rotate , Under-Over join across base of tally ,
2 b 2 b 2 bbb 2 b 2 b 2, join to vsp as shown in pics. This method of joining automatically switches the shuttle positions & hides colour blip.
Join Bead as before.
With Sh1 - Lock stitch to hold bead in place.
Wind loom with Sh2 and weave tally with Sh1 …

Repeat tally and chain motif for desired length, switching colours.

To Finish :
Join Bead as before.
With Sh1 
End Ring2 : 10, with findings.
Tie and cut and hide threads. 

Process
 1. Start first end ring with finding and continue from pic #2.
I tatted 4 repeats before deciding to take process pics. 

 2. Pull up a Sh1 loop through a loose bead, pass Sh2 through this loop …

3. …pull Sh1 such that both threads are now within the bead. Adjust tension.
I first saw this in Usha Shah's Lanyard #4.

 4. Pick shuttle2 and make 1 lock stitch. 
I made unflipped 1st half stitch, and flipped 2nd half stitch.

5. Wind loom with Sh1 and start weaving with Sh2.

6. Ensure that Sh2 is on the right side before closing the tally.
Hide colour blip as described in A6 & A7 .
Pick up Sh2, move seed beads forward on Sh1 to start chain.

7. Make a very small picot at start of chain.
To cross over to other side, rotate work and make an Under and Over join.

8. Complete the chain and make a slope and roll join to vsp as follows :
Pull a SH1 loop through the vsp and pass Sh2 through it…

 9. Tension the threads such that the SH1 loop is NOT pulled back through the picot.
This method ensures that there is no colour blip And the shuttles switch positions.

All odd numbered motifs are worked in above manner.

 10. Repeat Steps #2 to #9, but with the shuttles switched.
All even numbered motifs are worked accordingly, 
starting with shuttle2 in place of shuttle1. 

Continue for desired length, switching colours/shuttles accordingly.

End with another 10 ds ring with finding attached.

TIP : Continue for a longer length to make a necklace. In the middle, after a chain around a tally, add another beaded chain(s) on one or both sides, to act as a pendant.


Clunied !!!
I am so thoroughly Clunied! Earlier this month I bought a set of bathroom mats – not my style, not my colour, and it took us a few days to get used to that large print and relatively bold colour! But guess what – don’t you see Cluny leaves there? Freudian slip or serendipity?! 

happy tatting J