itch scratched

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 From April 2019 to May 2026 - took all of seven years for me to put up the pictorial for curled ring connectors! The 7-year itch proved advantageous because now I am sharing a comprehensive tatted ring connectors presentation which includes two main types of connectors as well as numerous applications and variations along with tips and options! You no longer need to rummage through your stash of motifs wondering what to do with them, or to worry about finding the right findings for your tatted jewellery! No preplanning, no joining picots needed!

Since this is an image-heavy post, I will try to keep the text to a minimum. You can read all details in the PDF and the links provided below.  

Tatted Ring Connectors

PDF: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vHuQjgEgH2vWSUX8JO5svG737jMM4Q9n/view

Two main types are the Curled Ring Connector (CRC) and the Tatted Ring Connector (TRC) as seen above.

Curled Ring Connector

All you need is a single shuttle to tat picoted rings and a lock join to curl each either individually or simultaneously at the end. 

Curled Ring Connector in progress. These are single shuttle rings curled around desired motifs to connect them.

Collect all your motifs or lace and arrange as desired.

My CRC SOUP bracelet. Here, I have added beads in the center of the 3-way CRCs. 

The large ring at the bottom left will be curled and will act as a toggle for the bracelet.

Detail of the beaded CRC.

First sneak peek here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/04/pattys-square-pattern-and-peeks.html

This is my Italian Connection bookmark made by linking Patty Castagno's Square Motifs.

Notice the 3-way CRC decorating the tassel and its 'empty' counterpart at the other end.

First shared here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/04/my-italian-connection.html

Not merely tatted motifs, these connectors can be used to link sequins! There are even 4-way connectors here tatted with metallic thread.

First sneak peek here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/04/pattys-square-pattern-and-peeks.html

Ninetta Caruso's E37 Iris Pendant uses a triple onion ring to curl around the necklace. And on the other end she worked a curled ring to link to the tatted motif with a split ring between the CR and OR!

First shared here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2023/10/rabbits-multiply.html

Tatted Ring Connector

All you need is a single shuttle to tat picoted rings and a picot join between them, encapsulating  two motifs/pieces. 

Some of my E37 Eye Spy Hearts #2 motifs left over from my trials and prototypes are now linked with TRC or tatted ring connector. More hearts here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/09/timeline-and-play.html

Detail of a TRC in progress.

My E37 SOUPy Vine bookmark with E37 Eye Spy Hearts #1 has a variation of the tatted connectors where the two rings are not joined to each other but to the motifs! More details here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2023/07/soupy-vine.html

My E1 Happy Hands Linked Bookmark uses the main motif 'hands' to link the tail to the body! More here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2022/03/linked-hands-trial.html 

My E1 Happy Hands Linked Bracelet has two motifs and the linkage to the body is made with the crossed long beaded picots. https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2022/08/a-bonanza-of-happiness.html  

Detail of the crossover picots between the two motifs.

Ninetta Caruso's E1 Happy Hands Necklace uses 3 individually tatted interlocking rings to link the clasp to the lace! Lots more pics and details here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2022/10/not-just-edging.html

Ninetta uses a similar technique to attach the clasp to the lace in her E2 Fishbone Bracelet. Her pattern pdf also has a detailed pictorial of the process and she has shared two important tips for our presentation as well.

I hope you are sufficiently impressed by the variety and will want to assemble your practice and prototypes pieces to create useable articles and jewellery!

vintage false CTM

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There are so many methods and even more combinations to add new thread to a work in progress lace. We came across Eleonore Endrucks' advice to fix mistakes in her 1920 book, 'Die Schiffchen-Spitzen'. Here is the translation - 

We now call it False CTM (false continuous thread method) and I have shared several scenarios and applications over time. Here, we limit ourselves to Endrucks' method, a variation of the same, and a knotless method.

All this has been presented as pictorials in this PDF - 

False CTM - Endrucks' Advice & Pictorials -https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_Jm7puHcMemY3lhwP2cP8G3EmcgamlVj/view

Since everything is already presented in the PDF, I will be brief here, with only a few selected pics. Please click on the link above to download the document.

1. False CTM - Endrucks' Method

Notice 1. the old tails tied together and the new ones tied together ; 2. the knots are far apart, with the new knot wound on the ball or 2nd shuttle, far from the point of attachment to the work in progress.. The blue thread between these two points creates the false continuous thread.

However, since the two tails (in each pair) are tatted over in the same element, it creates bulk. This can be countered to some extent by tatting very tightly.

TIP: Use a slip knot to tie the new threads (blue) so that it can be opened and the knot repositioned as desired.

2. False CTM - Variation of Endrucks' Method

In order to avoid bulk, here the old shuttle tail is tied with new shuttle tail and old ball/2nd shuttle tail to the new ball/2nd shuttle end. Preferably, maintain a distance between the two knots so that we have a continuous thread space to work with.

Look closely, all four tails are hidden (tatting over tails) in four different elements. The extra ends are trimmed later.

3. False CTM - Knotless Variation of Endrucks' Method

Knotting the tails can be completely avoided. Above the new ball or 2nd shuttle thread is being folded around the old tail and will be tatted over in the chain element. 

Similarly, the core thread can be added and worked over.

The other tail in each case can be sewn/whip stitched later, or pulled through stitches using a magic loop, etc.

The choice of the three methods would depend on the specific situation - how long are the old tails, etc.  The above is merely a small glimpse of the numerous ways in which we can apply false ctm. Some related posts/pictorials/PDFs -

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-1.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-2.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=false+ctm 

Tatting Over Tails (PDF updated from 2017) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kwszAseuEZqkMdXosfTHtXdw0diCwmKz/view

Starter Picot or Starting with a Chain (PDF) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vzSHMxas51Yn5iujdmror1obx27AuIhw/view

Hiding Ends and Adding Thread - vast compilation of options and tutorials - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html

Hope you find this helpful in some future situation. 

clover mat

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Question - Is there a specialised tatting term for a fabric made by repeatedly joining multiple tatted motifs? Or were they simply called doilies and mats, and the like? Tessellation and/or tiling are terms that could be applied but I'd like to know what this arrangement was called historically ....

This is a portion of Jon Yusoff's Clover Mat/Doily/Runner. This free pattern can be found here - https://tatsaway.blogspot.com/2008/11/clover-matdoilyrunner.html It is made up of 3 different motifs, attached in a regular pattern. It is a diagram-only presentation, which I prefer!

Worked in Anchor Pearl Cotton size 8 (equi to Lizbeth size 20).

Motif A worked in blue shade - 00131 

Made a few wrong joins between the trefoils in the beginning and even untatted back to rectify the error.

Future - I had decided to use two colours - one for rings and other for chains, but totally forgot when I wound my shuttle CTM with the ball. Hopefully somebody will give it a go since they would outline some nice shapes when joined.

You might notice that the picots are not perfect. Dr Downplay was dancing on my shoulder and urging me to just let go and have fun and that's what I did - no picot gauge - sheer unadulterated pleasure of the shuttle moving back and forth!

Didn't realise the amount of thread this was consuming, LOL. For fear of running out of this shade I switched to a lighter blue - 00130.

12 Motif A joined.

Next I chose to add Motif C because the outer unattached motifs made the piece floppy. Also, being a single shuttle motif, I took it to my doc's appointment where I could finish 5 motifs. 

The florets that are joined to 3 motifs should actually have been filled with Motif B. However this small motif not only fit the space perfectly; it also left me the option of enlarging the fabric at a later date by snipping them off.

Motif C is a much darker shade of blue - 00133

When working with multiple colours or shades in frontside/backside tatting, one has to be mindful of colour blips at the joins. This time I used Lark's Head Join (the 2nd method) throughout and it is truly quite easy and quick! It has become my go-to. Watch Karen Cabrera's Lesson #101.

Motif B fills in the negative spaces. After some deliberation I chose two shades of purple - dark 00106 and light in the center 00104.

The final mat measures 20.5 cms or 8 inches length and breadth. It is already in use!

Background Options -

Being of different values, it was very difficult for all shades to show up. The best was against this wooden board. I usually brighten the image and increase the contrast. Which is when I noticed the options in the top bar of Photos .... Is it a new AI option put in by Windows 11 or was I just blind all this time?! Anyways, here is what I did ....

Open pic in Photos and click on Edit.

Next click on the last icon. (The last two icons are AI features, I think)

This is the window that opens on the side with 3 options. I chose to remove the background, hence clicked on the center option. Then Save your image.

TIP - The image might save as .png which is heavier. Choose 'Save as' and select .jpg or the format of your choice from the drop down menu.

Before and After versions of the same pic. All colours and values are better visible against the white background.

 

NOTE - I used the other two options (blur and remove background) in a pic each of 2 other projects. While I haven't played with it much, I believe some distortion can occur especially in close-up pics. Hence use judiciously.

Many many thanks to Jon for sharing this lovely pattern and to Karen for her clear demo of the LHJ!