false CTM Part 2

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Continuing the concluding Part 2 of false ctm. As expected (see comments in Part 1), most of us already use this trick in some form or situation. Now we have a name for it (thanks to Jane McLellan), and a number of situations listed together for easy reference. 

Combining CTM and False CTM

Following are examples where one set of ball and shuttle is wound ctm, but a 3^rd shuttle/thread is also at play. The first shuttle or the ball is used only later.

Can we call this false ctm?  Or is it delayed ctm?! ;-D

4. False ctm in 2-colour tatting

In the doily I started, I wanted to add colour only in the center, and the next few rounds were to be in ecru, worked continuously. Here’s what I did –

Wind 1 shuttle fully, but keep the thread connected to the ecru ball as in CTM (NOTE: ball can be replaced with a 2^nd shuttle; here I used ball). Wind another shuttle with some green thread for the rings.

I started with the green ring, using the ecru ball for chain. The ecru shuttle lies to the side and will not be used in this round.

Notice there is only one green tail at the beginning, hidden in first ring!

After working the last chain (seen from back in first pic), cut the green thread, join to base of 1^st ring, and hide tail on the other side of same ring (or under next row element).

I now have 2 ‘continuous’ ecru threads ready to start the next round!

If pattern calls for 2 shuttles, pull out thread from the ball and wind 2^nd shuttle – a ‘false ctm’ – or continue with ball and shuttle.

5. False ctm in SCMR

[ SCMR – self-closing mock ring ]

A mock ring is often used as a central ring/medallion to climb out into the next round. Usually the ring is made separately if using 2 colours, or we climb out using a mock picot for which CTM is required. Following are examples where false ctm is used effectively.

I like to use a different colour for the ring. Pull out a length and wind in blue shuttle to make the SCMR. When the ring is closed, make a mock picot to climb out (#5 in collage above. If the pattern calls for it, we can tat a split ring to continue in ring/chain round). Now add new thread to the red shuttle, ie. on the core thread, and continue with next round.

Notice in step #8, 3 shuttles are still attached. This gives me a choice of which shuttle to use to continue, if I have sufficient thread in each.

This heart is another example of 2 coloured tatting using red mock rings in center. The false ctm involves 2 balls and one shuttle (yellow is ctm ; yellow shuttle & red ball is false ctm). Since the outer round is simple rings and chains, I snip off and later hide the red tail, continuing only with yellow ball and shuttle. 

Above is an example where a ball and shuttle are used, but the threads are cut/different colours. Use shuttle to make the mock ring (tatting over ball tail) and climb out. Hide the shuttle tail in next element.

Ball can be replaced with a 2^nd shuttle. Colours can be switched. Possibilities galore.

In summary,

Anything that we do with CTM (continous thread), can be done with False CTM, and much more, since the latter allows use of different colour. The main thing is to Look before starting and review choices. We don’t Need to start CTM every time a pattern calls for it. Use your discretion to convert it into false ctm, if required and play with leftover threads and colours.
My pictorials depict a sequence where the threads are in position for the next element or row. However, we can use a shoe lace trick (SLT) to change positions.


And don't forget to join me in my next post - I have a New snowflake that I am itching to show you, along with a pattern!!! 

false CTM Part 1

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Before the tatted rope jumped in, I had started an old doily pattern to keep my hands busy, but my mind disengaged in order to focus on pattern writing. But it, too, led to a ‘quick’ foray into ‘false CTM', something I’ve been doing a lot, in numerous situations, especially when working with 2 or more colours. I like this term recently coined by Jane McLellan.

CTM – continuous thread method, where we wind one shuttle, and thread stays continuous with the ball. Or in case of 2 shuttles,(and here, including comments), wind one shuttle, then without snipping off thread, wind the other.

We tatters prefer to start with a ring and also add new thread on a ring.

With ctm, one can start anywhere, even with a chain, with NO ends to hide. However, it works Only with single colour tatting, obviously.

False CTM is essentially the same but one of the threads is a fairly short, utilitarian length, and new thread is added at a distance. This new thread can be of same or different colour. 

It is a very convenient solution to -

• use up threads already on shuttles
• climb out for continuous work
• start with a chain
• start with 2 colours
• add a different colour, yet work continuously
• spot or localised treatment for mistakes

It avoids having to hide a lot of ends in a single element and allows tatter to choose a inconvenient location to add new thread/colour. 

This may not be new for most experienced tatters. For newer learners, I hope the listing will help.  

1. False ctm to climb out in continuous/one-pass tatting

1A. Mignonette and single-colour tatting :

I first remember hearing it in the Online Tatting Class with respect to mignonette. Mignonette is a single shuttle technique with tiny rings and tatters began pulling out a length of thread from their shuttle to work the few split rings required to climb out after each round, and work continuously. No more cut and tie and hide ends after each round.

1B. Multi-colour continuous tatting :

This is a doily where I used false ctm a few times, reducing the ends to hide and also tatting the next rounds continuously despite using different colours. Where possible, either the core thread or ball thread from previous round is continued, replacing only one thread to change colour.

TIP : How to add new thread to a chain is a very handy skill.

2. False ctm when starting with a chain

I always make knotless additions – tatting over tail(s), as can be seen in next examples. Follow your preferred method of starting/addition.

2A. False ctm in chain, adding to core thread, closest ring faces inwards (is to be worked with core thread). The chain will continue in same colour (mustard here), but the new core thread can be of different colour, hence rings will be in that colour. This works on a shuttle and ball pattern where the red shuttle can be a ball.

2B. False ctm in chain, adding to working thread, and closest ring is a thrown ring. Pull length from shuttle and use this for the chain stitches. 2 shuttles.

Notice and compare the position of pulled length, shuttle(s), nearest ring, etc. in 2A & 2B. It keeps the old & new shuttles in the right position to continue without the need for any SLT (shoe lace trick).

2C. False ctm in chain with starter picot, 
A dead end chain or one starting with a picot is best started with continuous thread. In cases where this is not possible, a false ctm is Ideal. Pull out a length to tat till we reach a point where new thread can be added and hidden easily.

I have covered this earlier, in 2017, along with a pdf of Starting with a Chain (and starter picot) in 2-Colour Tatting.  

But here is where and why it started - starting chain with false picot – Needleart 1921 edging #6 where I wanted a grape bunch with leaves effect. 

3. False ctm when correcting a mistake

Jane used it to correct a mistake and avoid hiding 4 ends in the same place. With a false ctm, she moved the starting knots on both threads further down, hiding ends in elements of her choice.

There are More scenarios when a false CTM is so handy! These will be in Part 2. I didn't go into too much details for each collage pic, since the main points are already covered at the start. However, if anything is confusing, please let me know what you want.

to be concluded in Part 2

lay it on, baby

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SOUP card and tatted rope pattern

Playing around. See, I don’t need friends to distract me; I do well enough myself !

Looking for ways to use up your little bits and pieces of tatted lace, medallions, learning or trial pieces, mistakes, etc.? Another SOUP* (Sewing On/Using Pieces)tatting card. This time I placed little pieces over the larger medallion. Haven’t glued them down yet, merely playing at a good composition….

This is where it all started – made the lower motif for a tutorial and then used up the leftover thread for the upper ring. 

In time for Diwali and other festivities – an idea in time saves a dime ;-P

I have blogged the 3 larger medallions earlier.  

ËÌËÌËÌËÌË

Now that Ninetta has tested it, I want to put the pattern out, since I want to get back to other projects. She has also tried another variation/modification of this SR method (I will update with the link later), as well as a whole range of other techniques and will be blogging about it over the next few weeks at least. Keep an eye out – this is just the start!

All links to design process, etc. are here.

Tatted Rope Bangle/bracelet/kadaa 

generic pattern 

The pattern can be adapted to suit your choice of thread and beads. I am merely giving the main process – adapt as you will. You can increase the number of colours, or decrease; change their placement to create new designs, …. And the length can determine which piece of jewellery it can become.  Play!

If you wish to practice without beads First,  try this tree trunk pattern here. 

MATERIALS :

Size 20 crochet cotton.

2 shuttles.

Picot gauge (I used 7mm but 6mm is sufficient)

Crochet hook (I used #12 to load bead on long picot)

Bicone crystals in 4 colours – 2mm.

With 18x4=72 crystals, this prototype is 4 inches long and about 1cm wide.

Choose one colour beads, and load half in one shuttle, the remaining half in the other shuttle. Wind shuttles ctm (continuous thread).

The remaining 54 beads will be later inserted Over the long picot,  at the time of joining, in the colour sequence desired.

NOTE : Length of long picot and number of stitches between these is determined by the size of your beads and the amount of thread you want visible.

- : measured or long picot (6 or 7 mm in this case)

B+ : load bead on long picot of previous (lower) ring, and join upper ring. I count the join as 1^st half stitch, followed by 2^nd half stitch.

SR : split ring  ; R : ring

SS : switch shuttle

Sh1 : R : 2 - 2 - 2 - 2. Close. SS and move bead from Sh2 to base or ring.

Start next SR with Sh2 keeping bead OUT of loop.

**Sh2 : SR : 1 - 1 B+ 1 - 1 B+ 1 - 1 B+ 1 / mock picot 1. Post Sh1. Close.

Leave some bare thread before working the 2^nd side of SR (as in a mock picot, equal to the height of the bead).

SS and move bead from Sh1 and start next ring with Sh1 following same process **

Repeat ** to ** for desired rows, switching shuttles and moving bead from that shuttle to the base.

TIP : It becomes easier to work the split ring if, after the 1^st double stitch, we work the 2^nd side of SR (which is only 1 stitch) and then continue back with the rest of the first side. (Thank you, Ninetta)

TIP: Post shuttle : If the shuttle that is used for 2^nd side of SR is passed through the ring before closing, the bare thread from mock picot is not visible, ie., keep the shuttle INSIDE the loop. It may cause a bit of twist in the ring, but is of no consequence. 

TIP : If you wish to join back to starting ring, seamlessly/invisibly,  tat the 1st ring as follows : 1(-1)×7. The 'free' picots can later be used to load bead and join to last ring.

Insert required findings/clasps for jewellery. Or simply tat one last ring and curl it around the first ring to complete the circle.

It gets easier and easier as one gets into the rhythm. So if a bead-challenged person (ahem, I) can do it, you surely can! Give it a try ….