vintage false CTM

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There are so many methods and even more combinations to add new thread to a work in progress lace. We came across Eleonore Endrucks' advice to fix mistakes in her 1920 book, 'Die Schiffchen-Spitzen'. Here is the translation - 

We now call it False CTM (false continuous thread method) and I have shared several scenarios and applications over time. Here, we limit ourselves to Endrucks' method, a variation of the same, and a knotless method.

All this has been presented as pictorials in this PDF - 

False CTM - Endrucks' Advice & Pictorials -https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_Jm7puHcMemY3lhwP2cP8G3EmcgamlVj/view

Since everything is already presented in the PDF, I will be brief here, with only a few selected pics. Please click on the link above to download the document.

1. False CTM - Endrucks' Method

Notice 1. the old tails tied together and the new ones tied together ; 2. the knots are far apart, with the new knot wound on the ball or 2nd shuttle, far from the point of attachment to the work in progress.. The blue thread between these two points creates the false continuous thread.

However, since the two tails (in each pair) are tatted over in the same element, it creates bulk. This can be countered to some extent by tatting very tightly.

TIP: Use a slip knot to tie the new threads (blue) so that it can be opened and the knot repositioned as desired.

2. False CTM - Variation of Endrucks' Method

In order to avoid bulk, here the old shuttle tail is tied with new shuttle tail and old ball/2nd shuttle tail to the new ball/2nd shuttle end. Preferably, maintain a distance between the two knots so that we have a continuous thread space to work with.

Look closely, all four tails are hidden (tatting over tails) in four different elements. The extra ends are trimmed later.

3. False CTM - Knotless Variation of Endrucks' Method

Knotting the tails can be completely avoided. Above the new ball or 2nd shuttle thread is being folded around the old tail and will be tatted over in the chain element. 

Similarly, the core thread can be added and worked over.

The other tail in each case can be sewn/whip stitched later, or pulled through stitches using a magic loop, etc.

The choice of the three methods would depend on the specific situation - how long are the old tails, etc.  The above is merely a small glimpse of the numerous ways in which we can apply false ctm. Some related posts/pictorials/PDFs -

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-1.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-2.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=false+ctm 

Tatting Over Tails (PDF updated from 2017) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kwszAseuEZqkMdXosfTHtXdw0diCwmKz/view

Starter Picot or Starting with a Chain (PDF) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vzSHMxas51Yn5iujdmror1obx27AuIhw/view

Hiding Ends and Adding Thread - vast compilation of options and tutorials - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html

Hope you find this helpful in some future situation. 

clover mat

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Question - Is there a specialised tatting term for a fabric made by repeatedly joining multiple tatted motifs? Or were they simply called doilies and mats, and the like? Tessellation and/or tiling are terms that could be applied but I'd like to know what this arrangement was called historically ....

This is a portion of Jon Yusoff's Clover Mat/Doily/Runner. This free pattern can be found here - https://tatsaway.blogspot.com/2008/11/clover-matdoilyrunner.html It is made up of 3 different motifs, attached in a regular pattern. It is a diagram-only presentation, which I prefer!

Worked in Anchor Pearl Cotton size 8 (equi to Lizbeth size 20).

Motif A worked in blue shade - 00131 

Made a few wrong joins between the trefoils in the beginning and even untatted back to rectify the error.

Future - I had decided to use two colours - one for rings and other for chains, but totally forgot when I wound my shuttle CTM with the ball. Hopefully somebody will give it a go since they would outline some nice shapes when joined.

You might notice that the picots are not perfect. Dr Downplay was dancing on my shoulder and urging me to just let go and have fun and that's what I did - no picot gauge - sheer unadulterated pleasure of the shuttle moving back and forth!

Didn't realise the amount of thread this was consuming, LOL. For fear of running out of this shade I switched to a lighter blue - 00130.

12 Motif A joined.

Next I chose to add Motif C because the outer unattached motifs made the piece floppy. Also, being a single shuttle motif, I took it to my doc's appointment where I could finish 5 motifs. 

The florets that are joined to 3 motifs should actually have been filled with Motif B. However this small motif not only fit the space perfectly; it also left me the option of enlarging the fabric at a later date by snipping them off.

Motif C is a much darker shade of blue - 00133

When working with multiple colours or shades in frontside/backside tatting, one has to be mindful of colour blips at the joins. This time I used Lark's Head Join (the 2nd method) throughout and it is truly quite easy and quick! It has become my go-to. Watch Karen Cabrera's Lesson #101.

Motif B fills in the negative spaces. After some deliberation I chose two shades of purple - dark 00106 and light in the center 00104.

The final mat measures 20.5 cms or 8 inches length and breadth. It is already in use!

Background Options -

Being of different values, it was very difficult for all shades to show up. The best was against this wooden board. I usually brighten the image and increase the contrast. Which is when I noticed the options in the top bar of Photos .... Is it a new AI option put in by Windows 11 or was I just blind all this time?! Anyways, here is what I did ....

Open pic in Photos and click on Edit.

Next click on the last icon. (The last two icons are AI features, I think)

This is the window that opens on the side with 3 options. I chose to remove the background, hence clicked on the center option. Then Save your image.

TIP - The image might save as .png which is heavier. Choose 'Save as' and select .jpg or the format of your choice from the drop down menu.

Before and After versions of the same pic. All colours and values are better visible against the white background.

 

NOTE - I used the other two options (blur and remove background) in a pic each of 2 other projects. While I haven't played with it much, I believe some distortion can occur especially in close-up pics. Hence use judiciously.

Many many thanks to Jon for sharing this lovely pattern and to Karen for her clear demo of the LHJ!

3D solid tatting

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 Who knew these cute little birds would be the cause to anger some people who then went on to make them an extinct species in their ecosystem! This pertains to only one specific FB group from which many of us have been booted out while others have left voluntarily. We now have a new group started by Vicki Clarke, called 3-D Tatting. All birds wiped out from that one group are now flocking together in this group, LOL, and others as well.

Bluebird in solid tatting

Continuing from my last post about flat solid tatting, see how wonderfully it can be applied to tatted amigurumi models!!! All pics in this post belong to Carolyn Craig who is the experimenter, designer, and tatter. I will quote some of what she shared with me privately with permission to use whatever was needed.

What is Amigurumi - Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small, stuffed yarn creatures or objects. The word combines "ami" (meaning knitted or crocheted) and "nuigurumi" (meaning stuffed doll). Amigurumi are typically worked in spiral rounds using basic crochet stitches like single crochet and invisible decrease. They can now add tatting to the list for amigurumi. CRAIG

Solid Tatting by CAROLYN CRAIG - is the same as amigurumi. It is continuous rounds instead of joined rounds in a spiral, but it can also do flat solid tatting which is continuous. 

3-D Lips

After her 2D solid tatting in 2020, Carolyn tried these lips, working them in continuous rounds and stuffing them before sewing them closed

The Lips became the body of the birds. I am a retired art teacher. I have used basic shapes in clay, paper, and other materials to make different objects for class projects. I see how some can be made with the solid tatting, I just have not mastered all the ways it can be used. CRAIG

3-D Mouse Family

"The mouse family in solid tatting with jute... continuous spirally circle of tatting"

3-D Robin

This Robin is worked in yarn. 

You can see how she is experimenting with different threads/yarns as well as sizes to get the desired result.

The collage shows how the body is being worked as a single entity, a continuous round which includes the head in a different colour. Before the body is closed completely, it is stuffed. The tail, wings, beak, eyes are added later.

Below we see the assembly parts of a solid tatted Sparrow. 

3-D Sparrow

"This sparrow was done in 4 ply acrylic yarn with a Moonlit shuttle. The sparrow is continuous solid tatting in a spiral to form body and head. The spine and tail are solid flat tatting in one piece. The wings are regular tatting."

The second image is the parts of sparrow solid tatting in a continuous spiral - body and head, Flat solid tatting which is continuous - spine and tail, and regular tatting - wings with moonlit shuttle in background. 

If you look close at the flat spine and tail, one of the two stitches used to create SOLID TATTING can be seen in the top and bottom row……. CRAIG

TIP: Carolyn uses two types of lock join to achieve her compact 3D solid tatting. For the most part the lock join made through the wasitband of a double stitch which she calls LFW (LJ through front waistband). It is the horizontal bar of a DS when the DS is facing us; the LJ is made within the stitch, between two half-stitches. The 2nd is when the LJ is made through the back waistband - LBW. This is simply like joining between two DS. Since 3D model is tatted all from the front, the LFW is used much more. LBW is used for increases/decreases to shape the model. 

3-D Bluebird

"The blue bird is with size 3 tatting thread (but tail and wings are still in size 3 thread instead of size 10)"

 

A closer look at these beauties!

These are but 3 solid birds designs. Her aviary consists of 7 or 8 different birds and you can see them in her FB timeline or the 3-D Tatting group (besides a few other groups). There are many active preservationists who stepped in to prevent extinction! Carolyn will be sharing her process and experiments in detail in future.

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3D in Tatting - There are numerous ways to tat 3D models with or without stuffing. Some are worked continuously (as in the listing below) while others can include joining motifs, bowl shapes, covering a balloon or ornament, etc.  These could include in no particular order ....

• Bobby Demmer's bauble tatting (which the Shuttle Brothers used to tat mice, etc.) (https://janeeborall.blogspot.com/p/exclusive-tatting-club.html), 
• Richard Embrey's helix tatting (2019) (https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2024/01/helix-tatting-pictorials.html), 
• Rhoda Auld's bobble tatting 1974 (which Ninetta Caruso used to make hollow tubes/ropes), to name but a few. (https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/search/label/stacking)
• Angeline Crichlow self-published a booklet titled Solid 3D Tatting (1995) where she mostly used block tatted segments to create numerous shapes and creatures. She has several models, but no birds. (https://www.somethingunderthebed.com/CURTAIN/REVIEWStat/REVIEWS_AtoD/Crichlow/CRICHLOW8.html) 
• 3-Dimensional from Endrucks directory (https://docs.google.com/document/d/10F9PdUIL_GcOelRsk5vKhaXXZnDQjaoJstaJU8ZPEJ8/view) displaying a range of 3D models derived from Endrucks' (1920) patterns. Also check out the eye candy section to see many many more models and ideas in the FB albums and roundups from games involving 3D tatting in #Endrucks1920Project. 
• Therese Dillmont's layered rings (1886) adapted & stacked for a 3D hollow for a tree trunk or a bangle, etc. (https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/12/miniature-conifer.html)
• Patty Dowden's hyperbolic tatting (http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/6194296/hyperbolic-tatting-pdf-698k?da=y in Jane McLellan's blog)  
• To de Haan-van Beek's (1998) inverted tatting (https://www.somethingunderthebed.com/CURTAIN/REVIEWStat/REVIEWS_EtoH/HAANVANBEEK1.html) and Judith Connor's exquisite pieces in her album in Craftree.com
• Carolyn Craig's books on 3D tatted fairies, angels, flowers, etc. (https://www.somethingunderthebed.com/CURTAIN/TATTINGbiblio.html#C)
• Inserting or tatting over wire to shape and stabilise the model. Linda Davies has used this frequently in her tatted flowers (https://toptattyhead.blogspot.com/)

Please note that the above list is by no means exhaustive! Feel free to remind me of any I might've missed.

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I wasn't going to, but this is adorably cheeky to not share! Here's what some veteran masters of tatting are doing in the above FB group .... Anita posted this yesterday and then left the group and told me I could share after several other tatters expressed their desire to copy/paste. 

Please note that this is the vintage edging (recreated by Anita) that inspired my threader holder motif here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2026/04/literally-out-of-box.html

And now I am told Martha Ess has also posted something similar listing all our greats who inspired her 3D design using block tatting and it reads like a true historical timeline. 

Cheeky but civilised and disciplined and following all rules! 

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Many thanks to Carolyn for allowing me to share her lovely work and details and to ALL others mentioned who allow us to use their ideas and techniques so that we do not have to reinvent the wheel.