Sunday, 13 October 2019

lay it on, baby

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SOUP card and tatted rope pattern

Playing around. See, I don’t need friends to distract me; I do well enough myself !

Looking for ways to use up your little bits and pieces of tatted lace, medallions, learning or trial pieces, mistakes, etc.? Another SOUP* (Sewing On/Using Pieces)tatting card. This time I placed little pieces over the larger medallion. Haven’t glued them down yet, merely playing at a good composition….
This is where it all started – made the lower motif for a tutorial and then used up the leftover thread for the upper ring. 
In time for Diwali and other festivities – an idea in time saves a dime ;-P

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Now that Ninetta has tested it, I want to put the pattern out, since I want to get back to other projects. She has also tried another variation/modification of this SR method (I will update with the link later), as well as a whole range of other techniques and will be blogging about it over the next few weeks at least. Keep an eye out – this is just the start!

Tatted Rope Bangle/bracelet/kadaa 
generic pattern 


The pattern can be adapted to suit your choice of thread and beads. I am merely giving the main process – adapt as you will. You can increase the number of colours, or decrease; change their placement to create new designs, …. And the length can determine which piece of jewellery it can become.  Play!

If you wish to practice without beads First,  try this tree trunk pattern here

MATERIALS :
Size 20 crochet cotton.
2 shuttles.
Picot gauge (I used 7mm but 6mm is sufficient)
Crochet hook (I used #12 to load bead on long picot)
Bicone crystals in 4 colours – 2mm.

With 18x4=72 crystals, this prototype is 4 inches long and about 1cm wide.

Choose one colour beads, and load half in one shuttle, the remaining half in the other shuttle. Wind shuttles ctm (continuous thread).
The remaining 54 beads will be later inserted Over the long picot,  at the time of joining, in the colour sequence desired.
NOTE : Length of long picot and number of stitches between these is determined by the size of your beads and the amount of thread you want visible.

- : measured or long picot (6 or 7 mm in this case)
B+ : load bead on long picot of previous (lower) ring, and join upper ring. I count the join as 1st half stitch, followed by 2nd half stitch.
SR : split ring  ; R : ring
SS : switch shuttle

Sh1 : R : 2 - 2 - 2 - 2. Close. SS and move bead from Sh2 to base or ring.
Start next SR with Sh2 keeping bead OUT of loop.
**Sh2 : SR : 1 - 1 B+ 1 - 1 B+ 1 - 1 B+ 1 / mock picot 1. Post Sh1. Close.
Leave some bare thread before working the 2nd side of SR (as in a mock picot, equal to the height of the bead).
SS and move bead from Sh1 and start next ring with Sh1 following same process **

Repeat ** to ** for desired rows, switching shuttles and moving bead from that shuttle to the base.

TIP : It becomes easier to work the split ring if, after the 1st double stitch, we work the 2nd side of SR (which is only 1 stitch) and then continue back with the rest of the first side. (Thank you, Ninetta)

TIP: Post shuttle : If the shuttle that is used for 2nd side of SR is passed through the ring before closing, the bare thread from mock picot is not visible, ie., keep the shuttle INSIDE the loop. It may cause a bit of twist in the ring, but is of no consequence. 

TIP : If you wish to join back to starting ring, seamlessly/invisibly,  tat the 1st ring as follows : 1(-1)×7. The 'free' picots can later be used to load bead and join to last ring.

Insert required findings/clasps for jewellery. Or simply tat one last ring and curl it around the first ring to complete the circle.


It gets easier and easier as one gets into the rhythm. So if a bead-challenged person (ahem, I) can do it, you surely can! Give it a try ….

Saturday, 12 October 2019

tat a beaded rope

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I wasn't to be distracted - everybody knew. But with friends like this, who needs enemies ;-P
This evil genius sweetly invited a few of us on facebook to put Sue’s suggestion to thread. She’s evil for distracting me, but genius for doing me a favour … I Finally got around to trying my layered/stacked SR bracelet/Kadaa - a first trial I shared in 2015, and it's Christmas tree trunk pattern here.

It took me one entire day of fiddling around (and experimenting), trying to refresh my memory and convert the pattern into a beaded cord. Problem wasn’t in the pattern but the mismatch between beads, crochet hooks/threaders, beading needles, threads, etc. etc. I had started off with finer thread and smaller beads; finally only these larger bicone crystals worked with the size 20 crochet cotton, and a #12 crochet hook. Now it is going smoothly & I’ve found my rhythm. However, Ninetta will be testing it first.

UPDATE : Pattern is shared here. But look out for more on Ninetta's blog.

It did give me a whole new admiration for all the bead-heavy work crafters do. Reminded me of Jane McLellan's numerous crochet beaded ropes that she seems to belt out at such rapid pace.  

A few Experiments and NOTES 
  • I tried putting beads on the core thread, but they face inside the hollow with thread showing on the outside.
  • I also tried pre-stringing beads. This worked if alternated with picots where rings needed to be attached.  If I had beads on a picot, it was difficult to join since the picot/thread ran horizontal through the bead hole - so a join would become skewed.
  • In the pictured version, I loaded 2 shuttles with only brown crystals (half on each shuttle); the rest were loaded over long picots at the time of joining. This is more practical – no pre-stringing loads of beads, no large shuttle required. However, working a SR can become a bit impractical till one gets a hang of it.

Last night I made a short video of the start.

I haven't tried Ninetta's single shuttle method yet, or the other numerous ways including chains. For another day. But following are a few of my thoughts ....
  
  • Single thread/shuttle versus 2 shuttles
  • Difficulty level - simple rings versus split rings.
  • Pre-stringing beads versus few pre-strung beads (most are loaded on long picot at time of joining).
  • For long project, large shuttle required versus regular shuttles.
  • The cord twists on itself, like a double helix versus beads spiralling around while cord remains ‘straight’.
  • The subsequent rings are ‘rotated’ slightly before being joined below versus emerging out of a split ring with a phase shift.
It will be interesting to try out other methods. In fact there is a lot of evolution these methods might incur. Time, experimenting, and testing will reveal ….

Monday, 7 October 2019

the bells toll

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MatheMagical Bells (2D & 3D) 

Why do I do it?! Thinking it would go faster since I already had patterns and diagrams for the MatheMagical series, I chose this for pdf. Sigh, it took me over 5 evenings to get it all straightened, with Numerous changes in the diagrams.



And yet, if made again, I would work the 3D bell differently as highlighted in a note.
It is easier to work the 3 panels of a 3D bell in counterclockwise (turning right at the base without connecting chain) direction rather than the clockwise (turning left after the long base chain) path I took. But I already had pics, and had already spent ginormous amount of time, so let it remain as a Note.

I have also added the count for the silver 3D bell, in case somebody prefers a narrow version.

For many more pics, see the posts listed at the end. 
I’d taken pics of the 3D bell alongside all other bells I could find – glass, silver, wood, papier maché, etc. Whether taken singly or in as a collection, the pics came out either tacky or ‘overkill’ (hubby’s observation).


So, why do I do it? It’s not as if my patterns are popular or anything.
I guess, it’s just this commitment I made to myself and I’d like to at least see Some series through to the end, including the posting! I won’t even think of all the other series I began and either didn’t complete, or didn’t post the final few.


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