bridge tatting

Pin It now!

 Like I said in my recent posts, expert and experienced tatters have graciously come to my aid whenever I asked for it. And some have gone a step further by sharing their work and/or discussing techniques and terminology even before I asked.  One such is Judith Connors who has been instrumental in guiding and inspiring me through this past decade. My presentations have been influenced by her despite not being a perfect student.

Early last month, Judith sent me her article on 'Building Bridges' along with a pic of her Fan motif (If you are a member, you can see her model in the Queensland Tatters 2025 group post here - https://craftree.com/forum/threadfs/40423?page=1#258577). We had discussed bridging some years back, too. I was in a state of tatting inertia when this motif instantly spurred me to wind my shuttles and tat since this decorative/functional bridge had been on my trial list since 2019 (https://craftree.com/forum/threads/39159), but never got down to actually applying it. I did do the Rose Motif from Priscilla Tatting Book No.3!   

Bridging Flower Motif - based and adapted from Judith Connors' Fan motif

sharing my process, pattern, and tips/tricks

How many rounds does this motif have? 

Do we cut after the inner 'rosette' round?

Were Celtic shuttles or needle used for the Celtic effect?

Or were 4 shuttles used for the interlaced/overlapping chains? 

Getting back to the present motif, it occurred to me that I could use the element to create overlapping or interlaced chains instead of single lines! So off went my shuttles to confirm. 

Now this post is only about the adapted motif - process, pattern, and tips/tricks. I have pics for a pictorial, along with the background and explanation, terminology and history. Part of it is already explained in the link above (https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2022/01/bridging-gaps.html). The rest will be shared in a few days to avoid stepping on Judith's class despite her permission. For the curious, we know the technique as split chain, which is a misnomer and limiting, meant mainly for climbing out.  

My first attempt. I ran out of thread and also realised that if I continued around there would be cupping (I had increased the count in some parts). Moreover the thread had a tendency to unravel, even though it is Anchor mercerised cotton. Cut my losses and started over.

Design Tip starting with a magic circle: Since I wasn't sure how big the central ring should be, I preferred to use the  magic circle (the multiple threads are to make the picot large enough to join to later). Wrap the thread around the magic circle and start the first inner chain. End each chain with a lock join around the circle. 

TIP to keep last half-stitch flipped: The marker on the right - since each bridge is a long chain, by the time it was completed, the last half-stitch often unflipped and locked the core thread below. This temporary marker on the core thread prevents it from happening. 

After a few repeats, I pulled on the magic circle to see whether it was working well. Successful; no cupping or ruffling.

Bridging Flower Motif pattern

1. Only 2 shuttles are used with continuous thread and the entire motif is worked in one pass. 
2. 8 repeats and all chains in this prototype. No space for a central ring. In Anchor mercerised crochet cotton size 20 (equivalent to Lizbeth size 10), the motif measures 6.5cms in diameter.
3. In the image above, I have split the sequencing (A to F) to indicate where there is a change of direction , shuttles, or element. 
4. The entire motif is worked clockwise from the front.
5. Chains C & E are bridging chains aka bridge, bar. 
6. I used a 2cms folded picot gauge to measure the bare thread for bar/bridge before lock joining it to a picot on the previous element.  TIP:  I found that making a lock join by pulling the loop down instead of up through the picot makes a neater start to the bridge.
7. These bars are covered with Dora Young's Knotless Method or tied stitches worked from left to right. I worked them all from the front, though there are several variations of the method. 
8. NOTE: The arrows for bridges indicate where the thread from shuttle2 goes, not the direction of working the stitches. 
9.  While making each subsequent bridge, keep it in FRONT of the previous chain so that the overlapping is synchronised.  

10. For the bridges on the last rosette chain, TWO each had to be made! The above image shows the first pair done and the 2nd pair is being bridged.

After working the first bridge exactly like ch-C, then one more bridge is made joining to the first rosette on the right, at the base of the very first bridge. The stitches are then worked using the Australian method. This, too, is worked from the front, but in the opposite direction (right to left). Repeat this for the 2nd pair of bridges. 

Important: To maintain overlap, pass the shuttle under and over the last bridge both times.

11. After the motif is finished, and both threads are in the center, I threaded them together and inserted the needle through the picots held open with the magic circle, and kept removing the threads from the circle. Final tie, cut, and hide ends.

Option: One can use metallic thread or colour-coordinated thread for the magic circle and leave it be after tightening the slip knot. Then hide all ends - from the motif as well as the circle.

 

Possible Variation: However one can use a central ring of 10 small picots separated by 1ds and make a 10-repeat motif. 

Future Idea: Can we use this bridging technique to work block tatting over or across an element?

I will try to write the pattern in a more lucid form when I share the pictorials and other details. Here I wanted to focus more on the process.

Technique Option: Also, instead of the bridges going from right to left, we can move forward. Thus from chain A we can work the 'bridge'  like a floating chain or single shuttle split chain, leaving a picot open with a paperclip to join to later. 

Bridge tatting or bridging encompasses a lot more, not all of which is outlined here. In this post and motif, the bridges are ornamental - a design element; they can be functional too. Hopefully I will be able to cover it all in the pictorials post. 

I cannot thank Judith enough for her valuable mentorship and guidance since we 'met' at InTatters a decade ago! We may not always agree but the discussions are always lively and passionate!

see the Cs

Pin It now!

June 28th is the 139th birth anniversary of Frau Eleonore Endrucks and what better game than to use her own patterns to spell her name?! Her patterns are so versatile that within minutes of opening her book and scrolling through it, I discovered 3 letters - 

• E jumped right out from E2 without requiring any change; 
• D could be extracted by rotating E5; and
• C was visible in E17 when flipped over! 

Not wanting to spoil the detective work for our participants, I simply stopped scrolling. But Ninetta sent me another which was again in plain sight - 

• N from E24 by flipping the pattern and two possibilities.

And thus began our game of the month for June 2024 - Name Me Endrucks, with Ninetta creating this fun cover pic! You can find all details about how to go about it here - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zpZaumcrLJQyexy68EAZr2AhyGBi0pRg/view

Details of all our past games can be found in this active EP Events doc - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ZiNdE53cvqj2cLlxVP-wlga8aocPtzs5/view

I was supposed to take a backseat for a couple of months since my PIC (partner in crime, Ninetta) was relatively free to host games. But along came the International Lace Day on 23rd June and it was too good an opportunity to pass by. Why not accomplish two tasks in one stroke!

Here are two 'C's I tatted all within a span of a couple of hours while watching 'Twelve Final Days' of Federer's countdown to retirement. A wonderful morning. Tennis has never been the same since his retirement, though, and while I generally know what's going on, we rarely watch it.

Two shuttles were already wound the previous day with Olympus size 40 thread and the pattern sketched with stitch count as preparation too. This year ILD celebrated it's 10th year and at start of event, there were 1558 registrations from 59 countries! It was my third year participating and all 3 ended up with Endrucks' patterns! Lacers are still uploading pics of their individual or group participation with gorgeous laces.

I think next year we should enter the Endrucks 1920 Project FB group in the ILD, too. We can all participate as a unit from our individual locations. If only the idea had come earlier...

This is from E17 with minor tweaks in the ring stitches to make them smaller. I like this one and it tats up quickly. There is a short bridging chain between the two rings at the bottom in order to work the motif in one pass. I will share the pattern when I can. It can be worked with a single shuttle and ball and can easily be used to create an entire alphabet and numbers.

E17 pattern - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sStHg5IQmuwizC7QcKRaX951CvVoURbn/view

And this second C is derived from E10 (version 2) with very little change. It was inspired by the superb letter D tatted by Manju Talekar from E10. I consider this a prototype trial since some tweaking can improve it especially if used as a monogram. However if a complete alphabet can be created, it might fit in. This letter can also be worked with ball and shuttle.

E10 pattern - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YFBYqbgssthqDKYi8YkTX-fvAPmIYbm-/view

Future Ideas - Looking at the E10 letter C image later, do you C what I C ....

1. an upright tortoise (rotate it 90 degree clockwise and complete/connect the lower part of the body)

2. a bent old person with a walking stick

3. a lady pushing a pram

C U soon!

happy ITD 2024

Pin It now!

 A day early, but we love our tatting year round, don't we?! So, keep your tatting tools and materials ready, choose your pattern, friends, and location, and have a blast with chocolate, tea, and chatting!!!

This is such a quick and fun medallion from Rebecca Jones' 'The Complete Book of Tatting', Fig. 123.

Tatted in Lizbeth size 20, with half-closed rings (HCR) instead of chains or bare thread to bridge the distance. A single-shuttle pattern obviously.

TIP: Notice how the top and top right cords appear more pointed than the rest? It shows how you can change the curve by changing how far you close the ring! The middle ring in both is closed more than halfway as seen in the shorter bare thread space. I'm tempted to tat another with a sharper pentagon shape, LOL.

I did use a folded picot gauge for the HCRs , but messed up with some of the rings. Of course the sure shot method would've been to use beads.

🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹

After a hiatus of three months, we begin our new game of the month for this year tomorrow, in the Endrucks FB group! Let me know if  you wish to join even if you aren't on FB. This is our pre-announcement:

A game of decoration where you will get a chance to

• Refresh your skills
• Learn something new
• Apply your new learning
• Do a bit of designing
• And all while beautifying a little model!

It all depends on how far you wish to take it! But let us warn you that this can be quite addictive!

🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹

🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹 Once again, a very happy International Tatting Day to all 🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹

bridging gaps

Pin It now! I have some great news! Our Endrucks 1920 Project will be featured in the February issue of ‘Talking Tatting’ issue 50! Along with a short bio of Frau Endrucks and the doily E28 pattern (modernised version), all by Judith Connors. This is a quarterly newsletter of Queensland Tatters, Australia.

 

[E28 pattern PDF: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vG2g0JCVsy8cy2DfGKHEhxleq_7Rveba/view]

While this doily has already been tatted by several others, they referred to the diagram rather than the text. Hence it was left to Judith to point out a couple of errors, which are now corrected in an updated pdf.

Impeccable tatting from the inspiring teacher, researcher, and historian who was honoured with the Order of Australia Medal last year! And as you can see, she has managed to retain the octagonal shape of the doily after blocking.

We discovered that my tatting tension is way too tight! Worked in Coats No 40 cotton, Judith’s doily is 9cms in diameter to my 7cms in Anchor No 40 (which is also a Coats subsidiary).

“My tension varied from yours in places. I managed the fluting, and when I blocked the mat it turned out to be quite octagonal.” – Judith

Alternate Path: “I worked it completely from the front side, not as you have suggested for Rounds 5 and 6. This means that the small rings of Round 5 were tatted in RODS (with a posting of the shuttle before closure).” – Judith

While enlarging the pic for posting, I noticed another thing about Round 5 in Judith’s doily. It appears the chains on either side of the ring are 8ds each instead of 5ds, creating a graceful arch instead of a flattish line.

Bridging/Mock Chain and Split Chain: Several ways to climb out of rounds for continuous tatting are indicated in this pattern pdf. However, Judith pointed out that what I termed split chain to climb out of round 4 is actually a bridging chain (b-Ch) and I should use this as a “teachable moment”. Got me thinking and this is how I see it:

The technique was invented by Dora Young for rings and then applied to chains – the knotless method (km or KM). Decades later, the term split chain caught on and became more popular. But the stitch and movements are the same in both – mock stitches or tied/manoeuvred stitches.

A Bridging or Mock Chain is functionally and structurally the same as a Split Chain. Each chain spans a space and emerges at a point to the left instead of the far right, and is made over a bridging or foundation thread. 

The difference lies in the Where the threads emerge/exit or where the point of climbing out is. A bridging chain is made completely of mock stitches and threads emerge at the ‘beginning’ of the chain. A split chain, as the name suggests, is split - partially made of double stitches and partially of mock stitches. Thus, the threads in this ‘hybrid’ chain exit somewhere along the length of the chain, not at the start.

Among the several beautiful versions of this doily tatted by enthusiastic lacers, I would like to show Stella Marina’s version in lovely metallic threads because it is yet another example of how we can alter our path. In a moment of distraction, Stella forgot to tat the 2 large twin thrown rings in Round 3. Instead of cutting back, she continued. She then tatted them as normal rings, facing inward, in Round 4! This happened by accident, but could easily have been a deliberate choice to make the rings red instead of silver. Planning ahead gives us so many bridges to cross smoothly!

Now I want to tat the doily again and bridge all my gaps!

UPDATE (Nov2025): In Mar2022, Daniela Galli mistakenly tatted only 5 repeats of the E28 doily leading to a lot of cupping, which she converted into a cute little gift box. More pics and details - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/11/ep-medley-2.html

 

Many many thanks to Judith and Stella & Daniela - keep inspiring!

Related Posts/Resources –
For more tutorials and details scroll down to Techniques & Effects » CHAINS » Split Chain/Dora Young Knotless/Bridging https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/tatting-resources.html
Knotless Method in split SCMR - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/10/scrappy-doily-and-scmr.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/07/continuous-paths.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/10/bagatelle-to-bagaball.html

Pattern: https://docs.google.com/document/d/17LEVftXweztBIOWh4sL4BB7bX65ssoOsOn4oXIgCepY/view

knot stitch stepwise

Pin It now!

I'm not sure whether I will be using this stitch, but it does not hurt to have options. Never say never! It is not difficult and I soon got into a rhythm where the knot stitch, first seen in 1924, could be accomplished in one smooth movement. So, though my pictorial has numerous steps and detailed instructions, it is best to simply pick up your shuttle and tat along. Choose a thick thread in light colour for your first attempts.

The original diagrams in Priscilla Book 3 (free download from http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/tatting.htm) are very clear. Snapdragon has shared the scans here - http://www.snapdragonlace.com/?p=183   More links in my previous post - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/old-in-new.html 

Rose Motif from the same book, in Anchor pearl cotton size 8. Bridging elements (chains) use the knot stitch. I am so much happier with this one and the thread behaved itself! More at the end of this post.

At the end of the pictorial I have also compared the knot stitch chain with a split chain, which was a later invention.

KNOT  STITCH  Pictorial

( https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/knot-stitch-stepwise.html )

Shuttle and ball, continuous thread. Shuttle with a hook (or pick) is preferable for fluid movement. 

I start with a backside ring and reverse work, so that the shuttle is in position, to the right of ball thread. 

Always keep the ball thread taut; all movements are with the shuttle and there is no transference.  

1.  Wrap the ball thread over your left hand as when working a chain. In this method, ball thread becomes the core thread over which we make the knot stitches.

Move shuttle to the left Over the ball thread. Let's call this loop a , 

2. ...and bring the shuttle back towards the right to create a second loop on the other side of ball thread.

Important : The black arrow tells you to keep both threads in your pinch (between left thumb and finger) through to figures 6 or 7.

3. This becomes loop b. Notice that the shuttle thread is still over the ball thread as well as above a. 

4. Bring shuttle over a, but under the ball thread, and hook b 

5. With a slight rotation of the shuttle, it is easy to pull b through. Let's call this loop c. Keep shuttle tip under c. Note that loop c is under the ball thread and is pulled over a.

6. Pull all of b into c. Keep pulling c outwards, while keeping your pinch where the black arrow is. Notice how the shuttle has moved and rotated smoothly.

7. As c is being pulled out, you can simultaneously tug on the thread indicated by the crochet hook. This will shorten a. When c is large enough, pass shuttle through the loop. Then loosen your pinch on the left.

8. The shuttle has fully passed through c, and keep tugging to close a. 

I actually use my right hand (with shuttle still in hand) to pinch the indicated thread to ensure all slack from a is removed ... 

9. Notice that a has disappeared and only c is left. Now keep pulling shuttle thread to close c.

Important : Close all of a before closing c.

10. All loops are closed and 1 knot stitch is complete.

11. 7 knot stitches made. We have successfully climbed out of the central ring with a chain.

12. After the 7ks chain, I continued with a normal 4-4-4 chain using double stitches.

Then leaving bare thread of same length as the previous ks chain, make a lock join on ring picot.

13. With ball thread in left hand as if making a chain, cover the bare thread with knot stitches.

14. Another ks chain is complete, followed by a regular chain.

Comparing knot stitch (ks) and split chain (SCh) -

I wanted to compare these ks chains with a split chain (the 3rd segment on the right). At a glance, there is not much difference. 

SCh looks exactly like a normal chain, with exactly the same thickness and curvature. The simulated double stitches are made using Dora Young's knotless method.

The ks chain is slightly bulkier or denser/compact and just that tiny bit straighter. The ks does not have 2 distinct half stitches - it is more like one loop is nestled within (see fig 10 above - notice where the shuttle thread is emerging from). This creates a lovely texture along the edge which might be slightly more evident in lighter shades. 

Knot Stitch can do everything a Split Chain can - climbing out for continuous tatting; bridging between elements in any direction.  

It would be interesting to use ks as a design element, with perhaps a bit more slack on a to look like picots. What about curlicues (single shuttle split chains), floating chains, and filet tatting? Playing with colours? See more links for variations here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/old-in-new.html

Read Judith Connors' comments here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2020/07/splitting-mesh.html

Rose Motif from Priscilla Book 3. As in my first attempt here, I made graduated picots along the outer chains, but kept to the original pattern in all other respects. I started with a backside (RODS) central ring, reversed work and continued to next round. Both rounds are worked from the front in clockwise direction. The ks chains have thrown/floating rings; so remember to reverse work before and after each ring.

In Anchor pearl cotton size 8, the motif measures 3.5cms after 1st round and 5.5cms final. Worked with one shuttle and ball, ctm.

The one below is from Anita Barry. I roped her in and she readily agreed to refresh her memory. Her first one was years back. 

I hadn't noticed till she pointed out that all her ks chains do not face the same way. There is a tendency for the ks chains to twist a bit especially if the joining picot is long. But her picots were very small, as directed in the original instructions and seen in the 2 WIP pics. Hmmm. Any ideas?

Many thanks to all tatters who have shared across time 

so that we continue to have options and ideas!

old in new

Pin It now!

I started tatting this year! Chose an old motif in the new year - something that's been in my to-tat list for ages. The WIP above is my 2nd trial - OCD much?! The Rose Motif from Priscilla Book 3 - http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/tatting.htm

Actually, my first one in pink (Anchor size 40 thread) has several mistakes. Since none of the instructions mentioned RW (reverse work), and I was working with one shuttle and ball, it was only while taking pics that I realised the outer round is backside.

I found my rhythm with knot stitch - it wasn't difficult. But the thread itself caused immense frustration! It kept twisting. Probably the S and Z twist issue. I was determined, so completed the motif, but knew I could do a much better job with the bridging.

It measures 4.5 cms. I switched the rings with Josephine Rings and made graduated picots along the fringe. Both motifs worked with one shuttle and ball, ctm.

So, I started again in Anchor Pearl Cotton size 8, and it went so smoothly! Much happier with the result, too. 

Before starting, I had been collecting links from other bloggers and their experience helped a great deal. 

UPDATE : Completed motif along with a stepwise pictorial for Knot Stitch posted here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/knot-stitch-stepwise.html

Here are the projects that I found, although I'm sure there must be many more. 

Snapdragon - 

http://www.snapdragonlace.com/?p=183 and http://www.snapdragonlace.com/?p=604

She shared the pattern in modern notation. However, one needs to reverse work before and after the floating ring. Also, I started my 2nd motif with a backside central ring so that the shuttle thread was in position to climb out to the next round.

Ninetta Caruso - 

https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2016/09/time-means-nothing.html

https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2020/02/something-in-common.html - in 2 colours

https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2016/09/more-from-1924.html - an extension in 2 colours

Marilee Rockley -

https://yarnplayertats.blogspot.com/2020/08/old-tatting-new-tatting.html - she substituted the knot stitch bridging with Split Chains. She also joined leaves on the go.

https://yarnplayertats.blogspot.com/2020/08/jacket-project-and-easy-weavers-knot.html 

and  https://yarnplayertats.blogspot.com/2020/10/wearing-my-jacket-embellished-with.html show the motif sewn to a jacket!

Do you know of others who have done the Rose Motif (from Hell, as Sanpdragon called it)? Please do share.

In my next post, I'll share the stepwise pictorial for Knot Stitch, with my own take on it.