Friday, 19 October 2018

picot join to the right part 3

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(concluding part)
Common Threads - SET VII : the 'right' picot join 

Picot Join to the Right – Part 3
Terminology & Range
fig 1 - projects with the 'right' picot join

fig 2 - rosette
As beginners some of our first shuttle-only flowers and butterflies have free rings – a cluster of closely tatted outward facing rings. The next stage is when the adjacent petals are linked through picots and we learn the picot join. Easy - the joining picot is to the left of current work. And then comes the last petal/ring (7th ring in fig2) and we have to join it to the first ring. Huh! How to link it to the first petal?! How to reach through that picot without ending up with a twist or with a locked/snagged core thread?

There are many ways, and just as many terms, 
but the core principle/factor remains the same –
the linking picot is to the right of the element being worked.

fig 3 - more projects with picot join to the right
A great deal of tatted lace returns to the starting point before tying and cutting ends or climbing out to the next level. It could be a motif, medallion, doily, or even edgings on a fabric. Sometimes this linking back is through a picot on the first element(s).  Google any of the bold terms for an array of tutorials (add ‘tatting’ to the term). Some resources are listed here.
Last to First Join refers to this aspect – the last element linked back to the first element through a picot. It can be between 2 rings, 2 chains or a ring and chain.
Most frequently we apply this linkage to close a medallion in a circle.
Joining in a circle/in the round is another term for this final linkage arising from traditional medallions before the invention of the tatted chain. Medallions made of a cluster of linked outward facing rings were commonly called a rosette or flower (fig2). Hence Mary Konior also called it the Rosette Join.

As frequently mentioned, it is not just difficult to reach that joining picot, but there is a tendency for it to twist after linkage has been made. The following terms are based on the movement required to make that linkage.
Twisted picot join – where the picot is pre-twisted before pulling a loop through it for linkage, thus pre-empting or neutralizing the twist when completed.
Folded Join – where the work is folded in such a way as to reach that ‘pesky’ picot.
Avoiding the Folded Join – a simple reorientation or rotation of work results in avoiding any folding or twisting by bringing the linking picot to the left of work.
Riego Join is yet another term (coined by Teri Dusenbury) referring to the same join found in Mlle Riego’s books dating back to the 2nd half of 19th century. A long tail is cut, slipped through the picots, and the last ring is finger-tatted. Thus the linkage is made Before the ring is tatted.

The above list seems to suggest a fairly small range where this join to the right comes into play.
Not true! The following tatted models show us numerous circumstances where we have used the ‘right’ picot join. 
And to make it playful, try identifying that join to the right in each medallion or motif (click on image for larger view or on blue link for respective post)

          Does it have to be a circle?
Let us not take the ‘circle/round’ term too literally. It largely refers to closing/linking back to the start, not the shape. Shape is determined by the elements.(eg. the triangle in fig1. The 5-ringed flowers in this bouquet give a definite pentagonal outline. The 4 rings in the center of the cross clearly form a square or diamond, acting as a scaffolding. (figs 4 & 5)

          Only single or a cluster of rings?
Rosettes have very closely placed single rings. However, a larger, more open medallion, or an edging, when joined back on itself, may need the same join. 
And not just single rings, but a cluster of 2 or more rings can  be joined back. eg. the pair of rings in Butterfly Squares/Edging (fig6) or the last ring in a clover or trefoil (fig7)

          Does the join come into play only with outward facing rings?
Not at all, though most resources tend to focus on rosettes. The following examples have inward facing rings, but need to join the last ring to the first through the picot that is on the right of current work (fig8). 
In the Clover Wreath Poinsettia there are inward facing clovers. Last 2 rings need to be joined to the first 2 rings. But the last green ring on the final chain is also linked in same manner! (fig9)

Not just single, but multiple rings can need the join! And not just one but more linking picots within the same element may be involved.
The vintage edging with bare thread space has both inward and outward facing rings and since it is closed, the starting rings were on the right of the final rings (fig10). In the Quatrefoil medallions the number of inner rings reflect the overall shape of the polygon and the rings are bridged by split rings (ie. we move from one inner ring to the next via a split ring instead of bare thread or chain). Each of these needs the join for both the inward & outward facing rings (fig11).

          Does the join occur only between rings? 
In this medallion, the linkage takes place between the inner yellow rings as well as the first and last blue chains (fig12).
Again, there may be multiple linkages. Can you identify the ring-to-ring and the ring-to-chain links in the Classic square (fig13) ; Or the final chain-to-chain link in the snowflake? (fig14)

          Layered and 3D formations
Why stop at only 2D tatting? Tatting around a button, cabochon, gem, shell, doodad, may all end up with a last picot join to the right. 
Whether around a button, or around a gem for a ring, the final inward facing ring clearly needs to be joined back. The popular Ice Drops require the join both on the front and back. And even the final curled ring is linked back around the shell. (fig15). In the ANKAR-style earring not just the large blue rings, but the curled rings also need the picot join to their right (fig16).

          Is it always the final/last join? 
Again, No.
In both the part 1 & part 2 pictorials, as in majority of tutorials, the thread(s) end up at the front/above the work. It does not matter as usually the work is ending and after the threads  are snipped off, the tails can be repositioned as desired.
But there are patterns where one may need to continue further and hence both threads need to be on the same side - either at back of work or in front - as in the Curly Cross pendant (fig5) or this 3D flower (fig17). 
In the one-pass snowflake, ‘Celeste’ (fig18), each arm has rings that need to be linked to their right, and work continues! So ‘last to first’ is no longer applicable! 

I hope these projects provide a glimpse into the diverse usage of the join to the right, and why a generic term like ‘picot join to the right’ is more applicable than the smaller windows provided by other terms. Nevertheless, whatever term (or movement) is used, one should now be able to identify with ease, where and when the ‘right’ picot join is required. No more scratching one's head even if the pattern instructions do not specify it !!!

Sunday, 14 October 2018

a slave to urges

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I’ve been pretty lethargic these last few days – picking up the shuttle and/or Cluny loom for short durations only. Reading, watching tennis, and now housecleaning (Not my favourite urge, mind you) seem to occupy my time more than my passionate urge to tat. Oh, and I fought my urge, staying completely off the grid for a couple of days - detox, perhaps?

But I couldn’t resist the urge to tat this latest from kukkatatting! It’s her 94th scmr medallion and I love the picot flowers all around giving the snowflake a flurry look. Except for the ones on the tips, the picot flowers are linked to each other, and I missed out one attachment. 
Worked in size 40 thread, it measures over 7cms across. I hope she does not mind me copying her pattern. In case of any complaint, I will delete this post with due apologies.
After a few days of musing, here’s how far the Scrappy doily has come. I absolutely Loved all the advice I got (thank you once again, gracious tatters/crafters), and it has guided me in this round so far.
I started by sketching an outline of the 4th round (which you may remember was ovoid), and then sketched a couple more lines around it to balance out the asymmetry. 
Also, I increased the size and number of rings at the starting end to overcome that missing ¼th inch. I haven’t needed to add too many additional rings along the side, though. Let’s see how it turns out. I’m enjoying the figuring out process, without applying high-end mathematical calculations ;-P

And a couple of weeks back I did finish sewing in Jane McLellan's leaf braid edging on to my MIL's saree. I didn't want to end up with all the sewing in one go (blossoms motifs and edging together). This is actually a pic taken much earlier.
Meanwhile, I Have finally made the Cluny Butterfly and will share it once I finish writing the pattern. Lots of trials and friendly feedback, but may still need to be test-tatted, so get your shuttles and scrap threads and Time ready for a request :-D

Tuesday, 9 October 2018

I need help

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So you may remember that I’m trying to make my Scrappy doily oval instead of round. This is round 4 completed.
Now I’m not really going for pristine and perfect here – it’s simply a fun relaxing recycling project. Nevertheless I would surely like the doily to be oval And keep it’s shape throughout. I’m hoping it ends up as a doormat - it is already pretty dense and stiff and some fabric below will make it durable.

Question #1 - How do I achieve it? 
I made the end rings on both rounds slightly larger. But the Rnd 4 ones on the left bottom (in pic) are larger still. I got it to look ovoid there. The other end, though, has a wider arc. I will make the rings large in Round 5, hoping to repeat the left side. 
Will it be sufficient? Any other suggestions before I begin?

Question #2 – Provided I am satisfied that the oval is symmetric, Should I continue with normal rings in later rounds? Will the oval shape continue? After all, I cannot keep increasing the size of rings ad infinitum.

From round 3 onwards, I added a very small picot for attachment so that I have a decorative picot overlying the next round (as seen after round 4). I kind of like it.

The 2 threads you see emerging after each round are because these are mock rings (scmr), not normal rings. I have only one shuttle filled with white thread; the coloured bits are all loose scrap threads - they come and go ;-P

I've not decided how to fill the center yet, but no hurry there.
At the end of 4 rounds it measures 3¼ x 2¾ inches, but one side is ¼" longer than the other. All Anchor size 20 thread.

Saturday, 6 October 2018

3 colour Cluny tatting

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In the 2-Colour Cluny we worked with 3 threads – one on the loom and 2 for weaving. I showed how to add & hide the 3rd thread, how to alternate the 2-colour weave, and how to avoid colour blips when closing. We now move to 4 threads where 3 will be used for weaving. Since they are all different colours, we get 3-coloured stripes or bands on the Cluny leaf.

These pics were also taken last December. I discarded an entire set of pics for the 3-colour Cluny (3-CC), and re-photographed with more comprehensive steps, but have included 2 from that batch here. That first 3-CC is the one just before the split ring in some of the pics.

If I were to tat a 3-CC now, I would definitely follow Edwige’s first step which I called ‘hitch the loom’ to remove the blip at the bottom of my tallies. 

Three-Colour Cluny Leaf
(4 threads and 3-coloured striped Cluny leaf)

Try different number of passes or wraps for a banded or graduated effect. eg. in the collage above, the pendant is a hanging Cluny where I started with 2 wraps of each colour twice, then narrowed the stripes to 1 wrap each. A crystal bead had been strung on the loom earlier, between Warp1 & Warp3 (ie. the top loop).

Choose any order of weaving, place 2 colours on the left and 1 on right, and so on. Lots of possibilities!

I have used a card loom. But choose a loom of your choice - the principle & concept remains the same. 

Loom/Warp thread : mustard 
Weaving threads   : Colour 1 on the right – green;
                  Colour 2 on the left – pink ;
                  Colour 3 on the right – yellow.
Sequence of weaving : green, pink, yellow.
1 wrap/weave = 2 passes (across Warps and back to starting side)

 1. Wind the loom as usual, with 3 Warps, using mustard thread.
One 3-CC has already been made, followed by a split ring. 
Pink is hidden within the left side & yellow on the right side of the split ring.
I have threaded the weaving threads. Tapestry needle works well, but shuttles are fine, too.
TIP : Place the needle(s) on a flat surface when not in use, to avoid tangling.

2. Move green and yellow to the right – Under, Over.
NOTE : In order to avoid any colour blip, hitch the loom with the colour of your choice. 
(not done here, unfortunately)

3. All positioned, we are now ready to weave.

4. Move green to the left for 1st pass (Under, Over, Under) …

To add new thread: This is the stage where new thread can be added. In case of my first tally, I had to add yellow colour. The collage shows how I trapped the new thread within the first green pass. The tail can then be lined along/parallel to Warp2 or Warp3 to hide, and snipped after a bit of weaving. See adding new thread options here -

5. and back to the right for 2nd pass (Over, Under, Over).
1 wrap/weave complete.

6. With pink thread -
1st pass to the right (Under, Over, Under) …

 7. and back to the left (Over, Under, Over).
1 pink wrap made.

Keep packing down the weaves.

8. With yellow thread, keeping it above the green –
1st pass to the left (Under, Over, Under) …

9. and back to the right (Over, Under, Over).
1 yellow wrap made.

3 wraps made so far, one in each colour.

10. Start with green again, keeping it ABOVE the yellow.

TIP : Leave some slack along the edge, enough to span the 2 coloured wraps before it comes into play again. Pulling it too close will distort the tally edge.

11. Repeat steps 4 to 9 to desired size, shaping the Cluny leaf along the way.

12. To hide colour blip :
Insert all 3 needles through the top loop from below….

13. … threads are emerging out through the top loop now

14. To close tally
Remove top loop and start pulling Warp2 downwards till the loop disappears completely.
Notice how all 3 colours are emerging from the top, covering/hiding the mustard loom thread. 
For the next element, we can easily pick the colour we want to show.

If we skip step #12, this is what happens (tally on right in pic) – In my first 3-colour tally I forgot to pass the green thread through top loop before closing. That thread emerges from the right side, making it untidy and leaving some mustard blip.

15. Slip the bottom loop off the loom and pull Warp2 upwards to close it.

16. One 3-Colour Cluny leaf complete!

See the tiny mustard blip on the right side of tally base? 
This is the blip that hitching the loom prevents! 

My pictorials show only the basic Cluny leaf being worked in colours. But as I pointed out at the start, this colouring of a Cluny leaf works just as well for a hanging Cluny leaf, a Split Cluny or a broad Cluny (which will be the next in this 2018 Cluny tatting series). 

As a reminder, here’s a throwback pic of my trials shared here. Most of these are hanging Cluny leaves. I was trying to get the 'hang' of coloured Cluny tatting!

Friday, 5 October 2018

Cluny looms

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My 2015 Cluny tatting series had links to many different types of Cluny looms. I have since come across a couple more that are listed here. ( I'm too scared of updating my post for fear it may jump from 2015 to 2018! Blogger as already messed up the September postings!) But this post is the result of what Jean Gordon sent me recently.

Shoebox Lid cut into a Cluny loom by Jean Gordon
Based on my Cluny tatting pictorials, Jean started learning on a card loom. However the card loom didn’t work for her when it came time to close the tally. Weaving went fine, but she had difficulty with the shed and removing the top loop from the loom. So she came up with the idea of a shoe box lid. Box looms are common and many have made them at home. What I like particularly about Jean’s loom is that
  1. it is shallow, not deep and bulky like the shoe box, making storage a non-issue; and
  2. she cut slits into the lid which acts as a built-in shed – no knobs or pins, and so on! 
Jean's Cluny tatting on a card loom
Notice how the slits are in the same place in both the flat card loom & the lid loom?

Handy Hands' Ultimate Cluny Loom
(image from pinterest)
I also came across the Ultimate Cluny Loom from Handy Hands. The name is justified because the loom can be worked by right and left handers by simply flipping it. Markings on both surfaces are easy to follow. Tamie has uploaded a video here about this product for Georgia’s Advanced Online Tatting Class.

Last but not least is Tim Kaylor’s 3D printed loom – his own original design! He was kind enough to offer to send me one when he first made them.

Meanwhile I’m getting ready to post the next pictorial showing 3-coloured Cluny leaves. And I need to start on that butterfly pattern – converting it into Cluny wings! Tons of tatting and blogging looming ahead :-D

Wednesday, 3 October 2018


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- tied and taped 
Blossoms Motifs 10-15

The number of thieves caught is growing. Alibaba has to find a way to keep them at bay while going after the rest. Yes, they have to be corralled – all tied around and taped behind securely!

Remember I asked about a way to store them besides the clear envelope? I got some very good & helpful answers. Except that I hadn’t explained the entire scenario. So here’s my solution where I can see each motif frontside up, in the orientation I think is best. Tied with a string on a transparency sheet and taped over the knot behind. This method helps me keep track of many factors and makes for easy reference when working a new motif. September-end saw 20 of them corralled, though I am sharing patterns for only the following 6 this time.
All worked in Lizbeth size 20 from the Sunkist pack and green from the Ice mix pack. Another possible garland with Motifs 10-16.
Techniques : single shuttle, rings only, rosette, picot join to the right,  lock join, lark's head or luggage tag, bare thread space, fs/bs tatting .  

Blossoms Motif #10
2" × 1½"

Blossoms Motif #11
<2” × 1¼"
Some of the motifs look good when oriented differently.

I had shared a pic of the 6 fully wound shuttles here
A Pony bobbin holds around 8 meters or 8.75 yards (320”) of Lizbeth size 20 thread.
Finally after 11 motifs + 1 corner + 1 butterfly, all bobbins were free of their load. 
Green shuttle emptied earlier, after 9 motifs and 1 corner.
Pretty good use, eh?!

Blossoms Motif #12
2" × 1¼"

Blossoms Heart (idea)
Motifs 10, 11 & 12 arranged in a somewhat heart-shape. With a bit of tweaking, a deeper dimple, it could work ..

Blossoms Motif #13
<2¼” × 1¼"

Blossoms Motif #14
>2" × >1¼"

Blossoms Motif #15
Here the numbers in black show that the segment is split in order to make a join. Rest of the petal(s) are worked according to the white numbers.

Since these are all first attempts and I won’t be repeating any, I just have to wing it as best I can. If I were to repeat, I would tat a few of them a bit differently – in terms of where to join or where to place leaves or size, add a joining picot, etc. so as to give a better visual effect/shape. Overall, though, I am quite happy. Each one is unique, yet fits into the theme!

Motifs 13, 14 & 15 reoriented

Blossoms Bracelet/pendant (idea)
Motifs 13 & 15 placed in yin-yang style. 
I like to think of this as the start of a possible bracelet or pendant. Add a pearl in the center of each rosette and tat a braid around. Or perhaps just add a string(s) of pearls?

That's all for now, folks. Show's over and you may return to your tatting :-D Thanks for stopping by and "cheer"ing ;-P