go round once

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 I don't like such long periods of silence in my blog! So here's a quick peek into how I tat 

Like many tatters, I have an individual way of tatting and of all the videos I've watched so far, none comes close. Some day I might make a video to show my tatting hold and movements, but here's one uploaded by Beth Vawter - https://youtu.be/Q23FakixLp0.  I, too, follow my knitting style for both crochet and tatting! 

In answer to a query, I had shared these 2 pics in Craftree many years back showing how I wrap the ball/knotting thread only once around my pinky when tatting a chain! 

On rare occasions when I cannot get the required tension, I wrap it twice (below). The spacing out is deliberate to illustrate the wrap clearly.

But watch the initial portion of Beth's video to get the correct picture.

I find this very comfortable and those who have arthritis might find it similarly comfortable. My pinky has never to date been starved of blood or felt tired 😁 and I save time by that single wrap.

For crochet I was taught to wrap thread multiple times around my index finger and it used to put me off because the blood supply would be hampered. Until I used my knitting wrap around pinky and now I don't mind crocheting!

Do you wrap thread multiple times around the pinky or just once, when tatting?

picot join to the right part 3

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(concluding part)
Common Threads - SET VII : the 'right' picot join 

Picot Join to the Right – Part 3
Terminology & Range

fig 1 - projects with the 'right' picot join

fig 2 - rosette

As beginners some of our first shuttle-only flowers and butterflies have free rings – a cluster of closely tatted outward facing rings. The next stage is when the adjacent petals are linked through picots and we learn the picot join. Easy - the joining picot is to the left of current work. And then comes the last petal/ring (7^th ring in fig2) and we have to join it to the first ring. Huh! How to link it to the first petal?! How to reach through that picot without ending up with a twist or with a locked/snagged core thread?

There are many ways, and just as many terms, 
but the core principle/factor remains the same –

the linking picot is to the right of the element being worked.

fig 3 - more projects with picot join to the right

A great deal of tatted lace returns to the starting point before tying and cutting ends or climbing out to the next level. It could be a motif, medallion, doily, or even edgings on a fabric. Sometimes this linking back is through a picot on the first element(s).  Google any of the bold terms for an array of tutorials (add ‘tatting’ to the term). Some resources are listed here.

Last to First Join refers to this aspect – the last element linked back to the first element through a picot. It can be between 2 rings, 2 chains or a ring and chain.

Most frequently we apply this linkage to close a medallion in a circle.

Joining in a circle/in the round is another term for this final linkage arising from traditional medallions before the invention of the tatted chain. Medallions made of a cluster of linked outward facing rings were commonly called a rosette or flower (fig2). Hence Mary Konior also called it the Rosette Join.

As frequently mentioned, it is not just difficult to reach that joining picot, but there is a tendency for it to twist after linkage has been made. The following terms are based on the movement required to make that linkage.

Twisted picot join – where the picot is pre-twisted before pulling a loop through it for linkage, thus pre-empting or neutralizing the twist when completed.

Folded Join – where the work is folded in such a way as to reach that ‘pesky’ picot.

Avoiding the Folded Join – a simple reorientation or rotation of work results in avoiding any folding or twisting by bringing the linking picot to the left of work.

Riego Join is yet another term (coined by Teri Dusenbury) referring to the same join found in Mlle Riego’s books dating back to the 2^nd half of 19^th century. A long tail is cut, slipped through the picots, and the last ring is finger-tatted. Thus the linkage is made Before the ring is tatted.

The above list seems to suggest a fairly small range where this join to the right comes into play.

Not true! The following tatted models show us numerous circumstances where we have used the ‘right’ picot join. 
And to make it playful, try identifying that join to the right in each medallion or motif (click on image for larger view or on blue link for respective post). 

          Does it have to be a circle?

 

Let us not take the ‘circle/round’ term too literally. It largely refers to closing/linking back to the start, not the shape. Shape is determined by the elements.(eg. the triangle in fig1. The 5-ringed flowers in this bouquet give a definite pentagonal outline. The 4 rings in the center of the cross clearly form a square or diamond, acting as a scaffolding. (figs 4 & 5)

          Only single or a cluster of rings?
Rosettes have very closely placed single rings. However, a larger, more open medallion, or an edging, when joined back on itself, may need the same join. 

 

And not just single rings, but a cluster of 2 or more rings can  be joined back. eg. the pair of rings in Butterfly Squares/Edging (fig6) or the last ring in a clover or trefoil (fig7)

          Does the join come into play only with outward facing rings?

Not at all, though most resources tend to focus on rosettes. The following examples have inward facing rings, but need to join the last ring to the first through the picot that is on the right of current work (fig8). 

 

In the Clover Wreath Poinsettia there are inward facing clovers. Last 2 rings need to be joined to the first 2 rings. But the last green ring on the final chain is also linked in same manner! (fig9)

Not just single, but multiple rings can need the join! And not just one but more linking picots within the same element may be involved.

 

The vintage edging with bare thread space has both inward and outward facing rings and since it is closed, the starting rings were on the right of the final rings (fig10). In the Quatrefoil medallions the number of inner rings reflect the overall shape of the polygon and the rings are bridged by split rings (ie. we move from one inner ring to the next via a split ring instead of bare thread or chain). Each of these needs the join for both the inward & outward facing rings (fig11).

          Does the join occur only between rings? 

  

In this medallion, the linkage takes place between the inner yellow rings as well as the first and last blue chains (fig12).

 

Again, there may be multiple linkages. Can you identify the ring-to-ring and the ring-to-chain links in the Classic square (fig13) ; Or the final chain-to-chain link in the snowflake? (fig14)

          Layered and 3D formations

Why stop at only 2D tatting? Tatting around a button, cabochon, gem, shell, doodad, may all end up with a last picot join to the right. 

 

Whether around a button, or around a gem for a ring, the final inward facing ring clearly needs to be joined back. The popular Ice Drops require the join both on the front and back. And even the final curled ring is linked back around the shell. (fig15). In the ANKAR-style earring not just the large blue rings, but the curled rings also need the picot join to their right (fig16).

          Is it always the final/last join? 

Again, No.

In both the part 1 & part 2 pictorials, as in majority of tutorials, the thread(s) end up at the front/above the work. It does not matter as usually the work is ending and after the threads  are snipped off, the tails can be repositioned as desired.

 

But there are patterns where one may need to continue further and hence both threads need to be on the same side - either at back of work or in front - as in the Curly Cross pendant (fig5) or this 3D flower (fig17). 

In the one-pass snowflake, ‘Celeste’ (fig18), each arm has rings that need to be linked to their right, and work continues! So ‘last to first’ is no longer applicable! 

I hope these projects provide a glimpse into the diverse usage of the join to the right, and why a generic term like ‘picot join to the right’ is more applicable than the smaller windows provided by other terms. Nevertheless, whatever term (or movement) is used, one should now be able to identify with ease, where and when the ‘right’ picot join is required. No more scratching one's head even if the pattern instructions do not specify it !!!

Related Posts

Part 1

Part 2

Part 4

Joins in Shuttle Tatting

Common Threads

another colour dilemma

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A situation arose where I needed to start an edging with a picot on a chain.

No problem – go CTM and leave picot space with or without a holder (eg. paperclip)!

But I was interested in making that edging in 2 colours and CTM was not an option. All the tutorials/videos known to me start with continuous thread and there is no mention of another colour.

So here’s my solution to ….

Starting with a Chain (and starter picot)

in 2-Colour Tatting

Download the stepwise pdf here

Ø       Unwind a tail from ball/shuttle 2 (this acts like CTM) to finger-tat the chain;

Ø       Make a starter picot if required (with or without a holder),

Ø       Then add the other color for ring.

Ø       Tat over tails to hide.

With this solution, I don’t need to start with any messy knots, colour blips, or bulk (hiding 2 tails under one chain, making it 4 threads!).

And it is great for block tatting when we use 2 colours and have to start with a picot on chain!

I converted it into a stepwise pictorial pdf (with introduction & links to a few resources) for relative beginners.

This tiny motif was made as I went along, for anybody interested in tatting along.

There was another reason why this solution was needed. Here is a scan of the edging in 2 colours. 

BUT I made the leaves in same colour as stem whichmeant I couldn’t have the purple showing up at the starter and joining picots. More about that in a future post.

This method also works if the chain is tatted in reverse stitch (unflipped stitches as in a split ring) ! But here, instead of ball, we will need a 2^nd shuttle, because the tail acts as core, wrapped taut on our hand, and the shuttle makes the larkshead knots or reverse stitches.

Ninetta is my “Hiding Lady” partly because of her numerous solutions to hiding ends! She gave me valuable and instant feedback on the draft I sent her. With her stamp of approval, I’m sure there is some merit to this solution J  Grazie mille, Nin !

happy tatting in every situation :-)

Related posts :

starting dead end chains

Tatting over tails frontside and backside

tatting over tails - the middle path pdf

more tutorial links

UPDATE: See also - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/10/starter-picot-pictorials.html (with PDF and several options)

the middle path mantra

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Tatting over tails is a common method of hiding ends when we start a project or when we add new thread.

Continuing from the previous post where stepwise and comparative visuals demonstrated where to leave off the tail when hiding it within double stitches.

Part 2 demonstrates the same principle but in case of directional tatting, when we are working stitches from backside – where half stitches are in reverse order or sequence.

Since tail was hidden in a ring in Part 1, this time we show it on a chain.

Tatting over Tails - the middle path - 

download complete pdf here (Parts 1 & 2)

RW – reverse work

DS – double stitch ;

FHS – first half stitch ;

SHS – second half stitch.

RODS – reverse order DS, where sequence of half stitches is reversed. 

Tatting over Tails

Part 2 - backside 

This time I chose to tat a chain, working from the backside with RODS (reverse order of stitch). Here, SHS is made first, then FHS
1RODS = (1SHS,1FHS)

RW after ring made previously. We are now working from the back/wrong side.

1. Joining new thread (green/blue).

2. Start chain. 2 stitches (RODS) already made, encapsulating the tail.

Starting the 3^rd stitch with a SHS.

Notice the position of tail – it lies to the ‘front’ of the stitch being formed.

3. SHS snugged

4. FHS being made. Notice position of tail – it tends to lie ‘behind’ the half stitch

5. FHS snugged.

3 RODS completed

6. Continue till 4 RODS and 1 SHS made. Then leave tail and tat 1FHS normally.

7. Continue chain - more stitches made after leaving the tail

This is how it looks from the backside of work

8. View from the frontside of work

9. Snip the extra tail lengths as close to work as possible. Arrows show where each tail was snipped

NOTE : It is advisable to defer this step till a few more elements have been worked. Then pull the tails one last time and snip.

10. Tatting over tails frontside for ring and backside for chain, and leaving the tail in middle of a stitch, completed. 

So, here is the simple mantra to remember ...

the  middle path mantra

leave tail in the middle of a stitch !

Stop tatting over tail between 1^st & 2^nd half stitch when tatting a double stitch 

(frontside tatting);

Stop tatting over tail between 2^nd & 1^st stitch when working a reverse order double stitch (backside tatting).

This mantra also holds true for the reverse stitch (unflipped),  

as in 2^nd side of a split ring or direct tatting.

♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡

Tatting over Tails - the middle path - download complete pdf here

happy tatting always J

Tatting over tails part 1 frontside

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Sewing in ends is arguably the least favorite task of a tatter. The easiest way to avoid this is to tat over the tail ends.

We have plenty of good resources showing us how to accomplish it. See annotated list here. Yes, we can start any element, or add new thread in shuttle tatting without a knot. It is called Tatting Over Tails – basically encapsulating the tail within newly-formed stitches.

All tutorials I have come across so far simply stop tatting over the tail after the first few double stitches – specifically after the 2^nd half stitch.

This pictorial is to demonstrate and compare why it is better to leave the tail in the middle of a double stitch, rather than at the end. This holds true for directional tatting - whether one is tatting frontside or backside.

Part 1 illustrates where to leave the tail in frontside ring.

Part 2 will illustrate where to leave the tail in backside chain.

Contrasting colours are used to show the difference. Focus is on the process and concept.

DS – double stitch ; 

FHS – first half stitch ; 

SHS – second half stitch.

 Tatting over Tails 

Part 1 - frontside

In traditional and frontside tatting, FHS is followed by SHS to complete 1 DS.

Frontside tatting : 1DS = (1FHS,1SHS)

Most tutorials simply leave the tail after the 4^th or 5^th double stitch.

Here the tail will be left after the FHS of 4^th double stitch.

1. Blue is the tail to be hidden; orange/pink is thread from the shuttle to start a ring and hide blue tail within.

2. Start ring. 1 DS made encapsulating the tail.

FHS being made, with tail being encapsulated.

Notice the position of the threads within – they tend to remain behind.

3. FHS tensioned.

4. SHS started with tail within.

Notice the position of threads within – they tend to be come in front.

5. SHS tensioned

6. I stopped tatting over the tail after 4DS and 1FHS ; then continued to complete with 1SHS and 1DS. Thus 6DS made in all.

Tail is not visible in front

7. Now, IF I had stopped tatting over tail after 5 DS ie. after a SHS, this is how the tail would look – it emerges from the front !

Compare #6 & #7

 8. Tail hidden and ring completed as viewed from front.

9. the same when seen from the back. 

These last few pics clearly show how the tail automatically stays at the back of the work when we stop tatting over it after a first half stitch in traditional or frontside tatting, whether it is a ring or a chain or any other element.

Backside tatting over tail on a chain will be published in next post.

Do try it for yourself, and see the difference.

This is the way I like to do it and it works for me. Hopefully some of you will find it useful, too.

Tatting over Tails - the middle path - 

download complete pdf here (parts 1 & 2)

happy tatting always :-)

squirreling away gapsosis

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how to avoid gapsosis in thrown rings and birdhouse squirrel !

Nothing new here for experienced tatters but do scroll down for the latter. 

Avoiding  gapsosis  in  thrown  ring clusters

Newer learners often face a problem of gapsosis in case of thrown rings and especially thrown ring clusters such as trefoils and clovers. 

Ungainly bare threads can be avoided with these 2 simple steps : 

1. fold the last ring of cluster over the earlier rings and hold in pinch ;

2. tat 1 ds as close to the base of the last ring as possible WITHOUT removing from pinch ;

voilà, now you can release from the pinch, unfold and continue with chain tatting normally – the gapsosis has been avoided and the thrown rings will sit close upon the chain.

NOTE : this same fold, pinch, and tat is equally effective with trefoils and clovers when a normal chain follows it after RW (reverse work). 

A pictorial on how to avoid gapsosis

If required, wiggle the knotting thread a bit till you can feel it flush against the last ring, 

with no core thread left.

 Release the pinch and unfold Only After 1 full double stitch has been made .

In case there is still a gap, untat the 1ds and do over.

This works for me. There may be other equally effective ways, too.

A few previous posts about gapsosis – how to avoid and also when/how it can be useful.

I will talk more about this snowflake in next post, in response to a tatter’s dilemma.

Our  birdhouse  owner !

And here is our birdhouse resident for this season. Not a bird, but a squirrel !!!

(click on pics to enlarge)

Notice how it has stuffed the house with rags n ‘riches’ ;-P

S/he does not take kindly to guests ! After a few moments of glaring motionless at each other, the ‘owner’ jumped at the intruder and it squirreled away. Our guest went back to resting on the rooftop J

We've had this birdhouse for over 2 decades and except for the first couple of years, no bird has made it's nest. Squirrels, do stash their pickings before winter, using it as a storehouse. But this time we have an actual resident for the last few weeks and can see it sprawling on the roof every evening !

These pics were taken through out French door glass. Hope to take a few more with doors open, and a closer view. 

happy tatting while bird , errr , squirrel watching  :-)