dandy options

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 Solai S asked for help with Teri Dusenbury's Dandelion Chain Link Bookmark after seeing a few recent versions inspired by mine. I needed to refresh my memory by reading the pattern and my blog notes. Huh, turns out I already had the SCMR in place of SQDR idea back then. Time to test it!

SQDR = split quadruple directional ring. It is basically a split ring but has only 1ds on the first side and the rest is worked on the 2nd side, using reverse (unflipped or larks head knot) stitches. Working moves counterclockwise. Rings thrown off the center are worked with same shuttle without any switch. 

If shuttles have different colours, there will be 1ds (on 1st side) that will of one colour and the rest in 2nd colour.

SCMR = self closing mock ring. This is a chain that closes into the shape of a ring. Working moves clockwise, and rings can be thrown off by switching shuttles.

It makes no difference if shuttles have 2 different colours - the entire SCMR with thrown rings will show the same colour stitvches.

The post is long because I am showing 3 alternate methods of working the Dandelion motif, all using the SCMR instead of SQDR. A lot of tips are also thrown in, giving the tatter an opportunity to pick and choose steps as desired. Feel free to skip the working you do not intend to make. 

And for even more options on ways to tat a central ring with several thrown rings, read the article, and download the tabulated pdf. 

 

Note that since thrown rings in SCMR are worked from left to right (a to e, in above left image), the start and end stitches of the SCMR are as notated. It may also be a good idea to make the motifs first, then make the chain link surround (the black rings in above bookmark), joining on the go.

Please follow the original pattern for stitch count and instructions, making necessary adjustments. The following is merely a depiction of alternate methods of working and/or using 2 colours. And knotless starts.

A. Single colour, 2 shuttles, wound ctm (continuous thread), SCMR with thrown rings.

Red - shuttle #1 ; Yellow - shuttle #2

 

A-1 : Loop Sh2 as if starting a chain. Bring Sh1 around the pinky once .... 

A-2 : ... to hold open a loop of Sh1 and start SCMR with 5ds.

 

A-3 : Making the 1st thrown ring with Sh2.

A-4 : Closing the 1st thrown ring off SCMR

 

A-5 : Follow pattern to make 4 more thrown rings, finish SCMR with 3ds, and close the open loop after passing Sh1 through it. Continue with stem using Sh1 as core and throw off the next ring.

A-6 : Follow pattern to complete the motif. Notice there are 2 tails that can be hidden in the chain link later.  

TIP : For a standalone motif, and to avoid sewing in tails, hide one tail in the last stem ring, and tat the final segment (10ds) of the stem as a floating chain as I did here for the rose. 

Tutorial -  https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2015/03/dead-end-start-to-split-chains.html

The tails in above motifs are not hidden in order to keep my options open for future.

B. 2 colours, 2 shuttles, SCMR with thrown rings    

Red - shuttle #1 with teal thread ; Yellow - shuttle #2 with pink thread  

  

You can start by knotting the threads. I prefer a knotless start, tatting over tails in separate elements.

B-1: (left image) I usually cross the threads as seen in left image. Each tail is hidden in a separate element.

(right image) This time I simply placed the tails one above the other and continued as below.

 

B-2 : Wrap the threads as above, holding a loop of Sh1 open.

B-3 : Work 5ds of the SCMR, tatting over tail.

 

B-4 : Switch shuttle and work the st thrown ring, switch shuttle to work the SCMR stitches,....

B-5 : and continue to make the rest of the thrown rings and 3ds to complete the central ring.

TIP: Notice how I inserted the pink tail inside the open loop, and also passed Sh1 through the same loop.

 

B-6 : Now close the loop/SCMR. But for Version 2 of pattern, we need switch threads for green stem stitches.

B-7 : The most common solution is SLT (showlace trick). I prefer to avoid it. Instead I did TwW (twist work) as in this bookmark. With Sh1, make an unflipped half stitch, but while tensioning, ensure that the shuttle moves to the top, thus repositioning threads and shuttles into desired positions.

 

B-8 : Work the chain with Sh2 core (hiding the pink tail), thrown ring with Sh1, and chain with Sh2 again. At the end of this segment, TwW to switch shuttle positions.

B-9 : Continue and complete the motif. The tails can be hidden in the chain link later.

C. 2 colours, 2 shuttles, SCMR with thrown rings, starting from bottom, ctm 

Red - shuttle #1 with brown thread (and later with lavender) ; 

Yellow - shuttle #2 with brown thread 

C-1 : Wind Sh1 with stem thread; pull out a length from the ball and cut. Pass this end through the respective chain link ring (if you make this frame first, as per original pattern), and wind the rest on Sh2. Thus, we have joined, with no tails to hide at the start. 

In my standalone model, a picot space is held open with a paper clip (dead end start). Thus, if the motif is worked first, this paperclip picot can be used for joining to the chain link frame.

Work the stem and leaves.

C-2 : Snip off the Sh1 thread, leaving a tail (the shuttle at the bottom of pic) which can be hidden under any element. Sh2 becomes the core thread shuttle for SCMR. 

Wind lavender on a shuttle, tat over tail to hide end and work the SCMR with thrown rings as per pattern. (add thread on chain)

C-3 : Close SCMR and hide ends.

It's been over a week since I heard from Solai, and have no idea whether she has started the bookmark and has any issues. But this seemed like a good opportunity to try out the substitution idea and share with you. 

So, pick up your shuttles and get started :-) What colours will you use?

One more question - do you like the size of the images? Any changes you would like to see in the presentation?

splitting the mesh

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My Italian Connection is at play again, splitting chores! Couple of days back Elisabetta De Napoli shared a picture of her filet tatting in an Italian facebook group. On request, she readily created a series of pics and explanation to share through my blog. Ninetta, ever gracious, did the translation and added her notes. Yours humbly had the privilege to assemble, 'polish', and present. So without more ado, here’s her split chain method of filet tatting.

At the end is her Italian version, verbatim.

Filet Tatting (split chain method)

by  Elisabetta De Napoli

Two shuttles, continuous thread (CTM).

Fig1) Foundation Row: Start a dead end chain, holding a picot space. work for desired length, finishing with 4ds. The above model has 6 picots separated by 4ds.
       Ch: picot, 4ds, [1 picot, 4ds]x5 

Fig2) Turn the Corner: Reverse Work and switch shuttles or do a shoe lace trick (SLT), then continue with a chain to move to the next level or row.

Row 1: consists of 6 split chains, joined to the foundation row picots.

       SCh: 4ds, 1 picot, 4ds / 4ds.

To make a Split Chain (SCh) leave bare thread just enough for 4ds, lock join to nearest picot of previous chain, tat 4ds. 
(see tutorials - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/tatting-resources.html )

Fig3) Make split chains for the entire length/till the end.
       [SCh: 4ds / 4ds]x5

Fig4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 for as many rows as desired.

This creates an Open Filet or mesh.

To Fill a Square: Plan ahead in the previous row to include small picots for joining. As can be seen in the image, the 2^nd and 5^th chain segments in Row2 have very small picots. This is how it is done here …

Picoted Chain segment (pCh): To fill a square in the next row, in the previous row a plain 4ds chain includes tiny picots as follows -  

       pCh: 1ds and 1fhs, 1vsp, 1reverse order ds (1shs and 1fhs), 1vsp, 1shs and 1ds.
(basically, 4 ds is divided into 1.5ds at the ends and 1rods in the center flanked by 2 small picots. The picots are made within a ds rather than at the end of a ds - as in backside chains)

Fig5) Row 3: Of the 6 squares, the 2^nd and 5^th squares will be filled here, which means there are 2 extra split chains within the square.

       Make 1^st open square:  4ds, 1picot, 4ds, SCh: 4ds.

       Filled square: [SCh: 1ds / 4ds]x3

       2 open squares: [SCh: pCh / 4ds]x2

       1 filled square: SCh: 1ds / 4ds.

       Last open square: SCh: 4ds / 4ds.

       Move up to Row 4.

Fig6) Row 4. We planned ahead in Row3 which squares we want to fill in this row. Hence picots were included and accordingly in Row 4, squares 1&2 are open, 3&4 are filled, and 5&6 are open.

For Filled Square Over Filled Square:

If next row has an empty square over this filled one, tat normal ds between split chains (total 4ds). If next row has a filled square over this filled one, tat the same sequence as in the picoted chain segment in this way: 
       the chain is 1ds and 1fhs, 1split chain (4ds), 1reverse order ds (1shs and 1fhs), 1split chain (4ds), 1shs and 1ds, all in place of 4ds.

∞∞∞

This is what Elisabetta says, for our Italian friends –

Ciao Ninetta, ti invio le foto che ho fatto e le spiegazioni:

2 navette e filo continuo

1° lavorare un arco di 1 pip  4 nodi fino a raggiungere il numero di spazi vuoti

 che occorrono;

2° girare e lavorare 4 nodi 1 pip 4 nodi e agganciarsi al primo pip  lasciando lo spazio per uno split chain di 4 nodi e ripetere, 4 nodi e split chain di 4 nodi, fino all'ultimo piop;

3° girare il lavoro e ripetere come il primo giro agganciandosi al piccolo pip che si crea tra i gruppi di 4 nodi;

4° per avere degli spazi pieni occorre prevedere, nel giro precedente dei piccoli pip nei gruppi di 4 nodi. (*)

Spero sia sufficiente, in caso contrario io sono qui.

Ti abbraccio e ti ringrazio anticipatamente **

∞∞∞

Filet Tatting - some other methods (with updates):

I have little experience with actual filet tatting. But here are links to a few other methods –

• 'Reversing Chain' method in John’s and Jeff’s blog. Read the comments, too, for answers.
• Mary Konior's rings/floating rings and chains method in Margaret's blog (image only).
• and a similar 'Filet-Ochhi' rings and chains method by Christel Wutzmer and Agnes Focke from "Doppelknoten" Nr. 7 (2005) in Jeff's blog (image only).
• Shoe Lace Trick method by Mandatory (my notes on this method here- https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/06/something-new-something-old.html ) She has done quite some experimenting with filling effects (pics in her Craftree album)
• Sue Hanson's tiny split chain basket (taught at Spokane, 2008 and pattern shared in many facebook groups) is a bit similar to the above method and uses 2 colours. 

I have been working on a tutorial series about lock join and chains, and this fits right in, especially if you take up a 2-colour challenge – I had forgotten about filet tatting! Life has intervened major-ly hence the delay in polishing it up. But soon – Anita has been proofing it …

Many many thanks to Elisabetta and Ninetta – share the joy!

false CTM Part 1

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Before the tatted rope jumped in, I had started an old doily pattern to keep my hands busy, but my mind disengaged in order to focus on pattern writing. But it, too, led to a ‘quick’ foray into ‘false CTM', something I’ve been doing a lot, in numerous situations, especially when working with 2 or more colours. I like this term recently coined by Jane McLellan.

CTM – continuous thread method, where we wind one shuttle, and thread stays continuous with the ball. Or in case of 2 shuttles,(and here, including comments), wind one shuttle, then without snipping off thread, wind the other.

We tatters prefer to start with a ring and also add new thread on a ring.

With ctm, one can start anywhere, even with a chain, with NO ends to hide. However, it works Only with single colour tatting, obviously.

False CTM is essentially the same but one of the threads is a fairly short, utilitarian length, and new thread is added at a distance. This new thread can be of same or different colour. 

It is a very convenient solution to -

• use up threads already on shuttles
• climb out for continuous work
• start with a chain
• start with 2 colours
• add a different colour, yet work continuously
• spot or localised treatment for mistakes

It avoids having to hide a lot of ends in a single element and allows tatter to choose a convenient location to add new thread/colour. 

This may not be new for most experienced tatters. For newer learners, I hope the listing will help.  

1. False ctm to climb out in continuous/one-pass tatting

1A. Mignonette and single-colour tatting :

I first remember hearing it in the Online Tatting Class with respect to mignonette. Mignonette is a single shuttle technique with tiny rings and tatters began pulling out a length of thread from their shuttle to work the few split rings required to climb out after each round, and work continuously. No more cut and tie and hide ends after each round.

1B. Multi-colour continuous tatting :

This is a doily where I used false ctm a few times, reducing the ends to hide and also tatting the next rounds continuously despite using different colours. Where possible, either the core thread or ball thread from previous round is continued, replacing only one thread to change colour.

TIP : How to add new thread to a chain is a very handy skill.

2. False ctm when starting with a chain

I always make knotless additions – tatting over tail(s), as can be seen in next examples. Follow your preferred method of starting/addition.

2A. False ctm in chain, adding to core thread, closest ring faces inwards (is to be worked with core thread). The chain will continue in same colour (mustard here), but the new core thread can be of different colour, hence rings will be in that colour. This works on a shuttle and ball pattern where the red shuttle can be a ball.

2B. False ctm in chain, adding to working thread, and closest ring is a thrown ring. Pull length from shuttle and use this for the chain stitches. 2 shuttles.

Notice and compare the position of pulled length, shuttle(s), nearest ring, etc. in 2A & 2B. It keeps the old & new shuttles in the right position to continue without the need for any SLT (shoe lace trick).

2C. False ctm in chain with starter picot, 
A dead end chain or one starting with a picot is best started with continuous thread. In cases where this is not possible, a false ctm is Ideal. Pull out a length to tat till we reach a point where new thread can be added and hidden easily.

I have covered this earlier, in 2017, along with a pdf of Starting with a Chain (and starter picot) in 2-Colour Tatting.  

But here is where and why it started - starting chain with false picot – Needleart 1921 edging #6 where I wanted a grape bunch with leaves effect. 

3. False ctm when correcting a mistake

Jane used it to correct a mistake and avoid hiding 4 ends in the same place. With a false ctm, she moved the starting knots on both threads further down, hiding ends in elements of her choice.

There are More scenarios when a false CTM is so handy! These will be in Part 2. I didn't go into too much details for each collage pic, since the main points are already covered at the start. However, if anything is confusing, please let me know what you want.

to be concluded in Part 2

UPDATE : Part 2 of False CTM posted here

another colour dilemma

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A situation arose where I needed to start an edging with a picot on a chain.

No problem – go CTM and leave picot space with or without a holder (eg. paperclip)!

But I was interested in making that edging in 2 colours and CTM was not an option. All the tutorials/videos known to me start with continuous thread and there is no mention of another colour.

So here’s my solution to ….

Starting with a Chain (and starter picot)

in 2-Colour Tatting

Download the stepwise pdf here

Ø       Unwind a tail from ball/shuttle 2 (this acts like CTM) to finger-tat the chain;

Ø       Make a starter picot if required (with or without a holder),

Ø       Then add the other color for ring.

Ø       Tat over tails to hide.

With this solution, I don’t need to start with any messy knots, colour blips, or bulk (hiding 2 tails under one chain, making it 4 threads!).

And it is great for block tatting when we use 2 colours and have to start with a picot on chain!

I converted it into a stepwise pictorial pdf (with introduction & links to a few resources) for relative beginners.

This tiny motif was made as I went along, for anybody interested in tatting along.

There was another reason why this solution was needed. Here is a scan of the edging in 2 colours. 

BUT I made the leaves in same colour as stem whichmeant I couldn’t have the purple showing up at the starter and joining picots. More about that in a future post.

This method also works if the chain is tatted in reverse stitch (unflipped stitches as in a split ring) ! But here, instead of ball, we will need a 2^nd shuttle, because the tail acts as core, wrapped taut on our hand, and the shuttle makes the larkshead knots or reverse stitches.

Ninetta is my “Hiding Lady” partly because of her numerous solutions to hiding ends! She gave me valuable and instant feedback on the draft I sent her. With her stamp of approval, I’m sure there is some merit to this solution J  Grazie mille, Nin !

happy tatting in every situation :-)

Related posts :

starting dead end chains

Tatting over tails frontside and backside

tatting over tails - the middle path pdf

more tutorial links

Dead end start to Split Chains

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All Coiled Up, Curled & Cozy !

No intention of boring my dear dear readers by revisiting same stuff …. 

Just thought it might still be helpful to anybody who is interested & wants to apply them to their tatting . 

And I Love curls, coils, curlicues – the shape is just so elegant and free flowing !

A brief background

It all started with this thread in Craftree and Lynn directing us to this video tutorial by Karen Cabrera, as a possible technique to apply. Well, it Was !!! And hugs & thanks to Lynn for opening up a wonderful world of Karen’s videos as well as the possibilities these curlicues have for free form/free style tatting.  

Dead end start to normal Chains

One can start a dead end chain by inserting a paper clip (Frivole) , a very small picot (Martha Ess), a lock stitch (Sue Hanson), or nothing at all (Frivole) like I did with this I Love Tatting Doodle (where no picot space was required). It is fairly easy to do it when working normal chains, where stitches are flipped, because one has the chain thread to grip, hold, & anchor. {Click on each of these for direct link to tutorials/tips. Also listed in the Resources Page.}

Neither of these techniques is, however, possible in case of a dead end start to Single Shuttle Split or Floating Chains

While browsing for more tutorials to add to the Resources page, 
here's a Gem I found ! 
Superb description & explanation by Elgiva Nicholls . 

WHY ? .... Because ....

1. the stitches are not flipped. When all stitches are Unflipped, how does one make a Lock Stitch ?!
2. there is no chain thread to grip & wrap around the fingers while tatting, to hold taut.
3. there is no place (thread or element) to hold in a pinch while beginning the SSSCh. Nothing to anchor one’s tatting.

It Can be done by starting with a ring (Karen Cabrera) or with a bead (Jane Eborall). 

But what if one wants a “pure coil”; a simple curvilinear chain ?!

To overcome these problems, one needs , first, an anchor & grip of some sort.  Following are my solutions mainly in notated picture form with some general/overall tips summarized at the end of the post. 

Possible Dead End Starts to 

Single Shuttle Split Chains / Floating Chains

Please Note : For the main movements on how to work the chain, please refer to Karen’s video tutorial. 
I am only illustrating a few options to begin a dead end split chain , which have worked for me. 

Size 20 , 10 or thick threads ….

Clockwise Curlicue

For Size 20 or thicker thread , use a pin , a safety pin, paper clip, needle…..   

Measure the length of chain (curlicue) you desire, & make a very simple SLT-type Single knot on the pin at that point. (This kind of acts as a Lock Stitch later)
Note that since it is a SSSCh, we are working with a pulled-out length of Shuttle thread only !  

Counter-Clockwise Curlicue

These curlicues can be made in either direction ; clockwise as well as counterclockwise.

The above 2 chains were made starting from left to right, resulting in a clockwise coil.

The following chain will be made starting from right to left, resulting in a counterclockwise coil.

In both cases, Reverse Stitch is being used (also called 2^nd half of Split ring method, lark’s head knot,  unflipped stitches/hitches, encapsulation, etc. )

For anticlockwise, refer to Jane Eborall’s Pearl Tatting tut. Or my photo-tut on Reverse Stitch here 

In Jane’s pearl tatting, if one uses Sh2 movement in SSSCH, then one gets a clockwise curlicue ; if one adopts Sh1 movement, one gets an anticlockwise curlicue.

In my photo-tut, pics 3B to 3H illustrate the loop & shuttle movements in order to work the RS with caps facing on top of core thread.

One must remember, though, that in case of these counterclockwise floating curlicues, one is working from right to left. Order of hitches/unflipped stitches remains the same – 2^nd half then 1^st half, & repeat…

Theoretically, one could RW & tat the counterclockwise curlicue as the clockwise one. 

But I could not handle it - there are too many things going on : no place for a proper pinch ; 

short length of core thread ; And the tatted part comes in the way of shuttle movement, if Reversed ! 

For Finer threads : Size 40, 80, etc. or rayon, silk, …

A pin worked fine when working with size 20 thread. There is no space/gap at the beginning of the chain. However, this same pin proved too big when working with fine threads such as rayon & silk as I did in this Tatting for Holi composition.

My solution for fine threads – use a length of sewing thread in place of a pin ! For medium-sized threads, dental floss, fishing thread, etc. can be used. Rummage through your sewing kits for the right size of thread to start the curlicue !

Following images demonstrate some key steps in starting a dead-end Curlicue

Some Useful Tips :

·       When you pull tight, after removing the pin / auxiliary thread, a Lock Stitch effect takes place & the end ‘hitch’ gets locked in. You can push the hitches all you want, but they will stay as a curve ! No gap / space is seen at the start, once the pin/thread is pulled out & hitches snugged against the starting point.
·       For greater coiling effect, pull the hitches snug ; the tighter or closer they are, the greater the curve.

·        However, the hitches themselves should not be made too tight. Otherwise they will not move neatly, smoothly, easily over the core thread to form a coil.
·        I prefer using a pin/needle for counterclockwise SSSCh, because it can be pierced through fabric/mattress, thus keeping the work steady & anchored, & also keeps the core thread taut to make hitches.

·        Choice of pin, thread, yarn, wool, or floss would depend on the size of tatting thread one is working with. For 20 & above, pin is fine. For 30 & 40, floss would work. For 80 & less, any appropriate sewing thread can be used.

I  concede that reading or simply viewing the pics might be a bit confusing. 

But once the shuttles are picked up, it all "clicks" together.

happy tatting :-)

Related posts
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/05/i-love-butterflies.html 
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/05/i-love-floating.html