teachable moments

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or learnable moments! 

 We are having a fun time playing games in our FB group, and surprisingly several teachable moments have arisen especially in our current event #tagmeEndrucks! Sharing tips, sharing resources, sharing options, ... There is even a hashtag #eptutorials in our FB group to locate them.

These short games are a good opportunity to learn and apply a 'new' technique, try something different, improve one's skills, experiment, find solutions.

#1. If you run out of thread in one shuttle before completing the project, simply do a shoelace trick (SLT) and switch threads if there is plenty of thread in the other shuttle. (SS - switch shuttle)
Or choose a convenient element further down the line to add new thread (false CTM).
Add new thread, knotless or with a knot, and hide ends simultaneously.
(a huge curated list of situations, options, tutorials - http://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html).

My resolve to never share the length of thread required in shuttles has strengthened after this project - my personal learning moment. Too many variables to factor in!

#2. We decided to use 2 colours to tat the model in order to clearly show which shuttle was in use. However, this meant the split rings were bi-colouted while their corresponding rings on the other side were a single colour, See the encircled areas.

Solution - Double core SSSR Karen Cabrera's lesson #43 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfILdiZ2C20&t=4s  

#3. Alternatives to Lock Join - Lock Join is needed when joining to a picot below our line of tatting or below the core thread. It is basic, convenient, and tiny. However it leaves a little dip and it also locks the core thread (the colour of the picot below is also more visible - see image below). For a smooth edge, there are alternatives such as Catherine Wheel Join, Anne Dyer's Join the Smooth Side, and the Slope and Roll Join, to name a few.

In the first pic, 3 white arrows indicate where the Lock Join was replaced with a Slope & Roll Join for an unbroken rows of stitches.

SLOPE & ROLL JOIN (SRJ)
[This was all meant to be part of the Joins in Shuttle Tatting series (2016!)... perhaps some day].

WHEN TO USE -
1. when the joining picot is below the line of tatting/below core thread.
2. when we want a smooth, unbroken line of stitches.

ADVANTAGES -
1. easier to accomplish than a CWJ
2. can be done with shuttle and ball
3. keeps the core thread sliding freely
4. can be used for ring or chain. Especially useful for Onion Rings or Concentric rings, hence also known as the Onion Ring Join
5. If the join is followed by the 2nd half-stitch, it resembles a double stitch. Hence it is a seamless or invisible join.
6. in 2-colour tatting, it creates a blipfree join.

DISADVANTAGES -
It is sometimes difficult to hold a picot space, especially a vsp, immediately before or after the SRJ since it appears to twist. After completing the 2nd half-stitch, ensure the space is intact and a slight tug with a hook/pick helps prop up the picot.

RESOURCES -
Debbie Arnold (coined the term SRJ)- https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4089642167730639&set=a.3691414670886726
Karen Cabrera (video Lesson 25) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6o3RT4bb9
Ninetta Carusoo (diagrams Simple Joins) - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ninettacaruso/6896834805/
The Online Tatting Class - https://www.theonlinetattingclass.com/technique-tools


Teaching or Learning are interchangeable, just as we have tons of options to choose from our tatting kitty and can change when needed!

Tutorials to all terms and techniques mentioned in this post can be found here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/tatting-resources.html

tricks without the trick

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Colour play without the shoe lace trick (SLT)!

Last week when I went digitally AWOL, I was compiling a pdf package for the IOLI Chapter Pattern/Gift CD, 2020. Instead of sending a single pattern, my recent crosses from the magic square spurred the idea of an entire project based off those sketches. It would make a wonderful design exploration for groups. I need to convert some pdfs into shareable links - will post later.

After sending them off, I couldn’t resist trying out the pinwheel sketch. So, here is the ‘simpler version’.

Pinwheel Coaster (or Tatted Quilt Block)

Adapted from the vintage Magic Square

To make it easier, I started with a black medallion of 4 rings. It should’ve been smaller (my mistake!) – you can see how the adjoining chains have a shallow dip.

The correct stitch count for each ring is : (3-3-3-3), joining to previous ring and to the first one at the end. 

Notice the numerous tails? Lots of scraps used in first 2 motifs. All knotless addition of thread, tatting over tails in separate elements, and lots of False CTMs (and more here) in order to start the chain as if the thread is continuous and later add in new thread/colour. Remember to cross the new thread around the old one. 
These (and more below) ‘tricks’ kept the SLT away!!! 

All rings are 6-6, the first of each 4-ring cluster has a large central picot.

All chains are 6 or 6-6-6.

Each triangular motif is worked with one shuttle and ball.

I wound 2 Pony shuttles separately one with yellow and other with orange and these lasted for the entire coaster. Respective ball when needed. 

Core thread under 2-coloured outer chain and when joining to inner black ring, have the core of same colour as start of chain.

The corner chains show 2 colours. For this, the core thread remains the same as the first half eg. yellow chain with yellow core. Midways, orange chain thread is added over the yellow core. The yellow chain thread is snipped off and whip stitched back (since I like to hide under different elements). 

Similarly, the inner chains that join to the black ring have the same core thread, but different stitch colours. While making the join, I pulled up a loop of the new colour ball, passed the shuttle through and worked the chain, hiding one tail. The other tail was whip-stitched back.

Work moves counter-clockwise and can be tatted all from the front using direct tatted chains.
For the adventurous, this square can work as one block in a larger tatted quilt! Imagine the riot of designs and colours and shapes.

Each side of this quilt block square is 9½ cms and 12½ cms diagonally in Anchor Pearl Cotton size 8.

A separate medallion in the center is the easier version. If one wants to tat exactly like the sketch above, the inner 2-coloured ring can be worked as a SCMR, adding the 2nd colour midways using this method of adding thread WITHIN a ring.  

I debated whether to add an edging. My sketched ideas looked good on paper, not in tatting - overkill! Ended up with a simple outline which hubby approved!

All chains are 6-6, lock join.

Corner chains are 2-2—2---2—2-2. (graduated picots)

Avoid shoe lace trick: Keeping the SLT away is a personal preference. In needle tatting, this knot is made after every ring and chain, yet the lace looks beautiful. So for those who do not mind the SLT, wind 2 shuttles, one with each colour, and make a SLT after each element to shoe the colour you want. There won't be so many ends to add and hide then.

The same holds true for tatting this coaster. My notes pertain to how I approached it. Every tatter is free to choose their comfort tactics.

I will also share how to keep the colour blip on the backside when working and joining a chain backside. I've used this before, but not in this situation and I truly love the trick!

false CTM Part 2

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Continuing the concluding Part 2 of false ctm. As expected (see comments in Part 1), most of us already use this trick in some form or situation. Now we have a name for it (thanks to Jane McLellan), and a number of situations listed together for easy reference. 

Combining CTM and False CTM

Following are examples where one set of ball and shuttle is wound ctm, but a 3^rd shuttle/thread is also at play. The first shuttle or the ball is used only later.

Can we call this false ctm?  Or is it delayed ctm?! ;-D

4. False ctm in 2-colour tatting

In the doily I started, I wanted to add colour only in the center, and the next few rounds were to be in ecru, worked continuously. Here’s what I did –

Wind 1 shuttle fully, but keep the thread connected to the ecru ball as in CTM (NOTE: ball can be replaced with a 2^nd shuttle; here I used ball). Wind another shuttle with some green thread for the rings.

I started with the green ring, using the ecru ball for chain. The ecru shuttle lies to the side and will not be used in this round.

Notice there is only one green tail at the beginning, hidden in first ring!

After working the last chain (seen from back in first pic), cut the green thread, join to base of 1^st ring, and hide tail on the other side of same ring (or under next row element).

I now have 2 ‘continuous’ ecru threads ready to start the next round!

If pattern calls for 2 shuttles, pull out thread from the ball and wind 2^nd shuttle – a ‘false ctm’ – or continue with ball and shuttle.

5. False ctm in SCMR

[ SCMR – self-closing mock ring ]

A mock ring is often used as a central ring/medallion to climb out into the next round. Usually the ring is made separately if using 2 colours, or we climb out using a mock picot for which CTM is required. Following are examples where false ctm is used effectively.

I like to use a different colour for the ring. Pull out a length and wind in blue shuttle to make the SCMR. When the ring is closed, make a mock picot to climb out (#5 in collage above. If the pattern calls for it, we can tat a split ring to continue in ring/chain round). Now add new thread to the red shuttle, ie. on the core thread, and continue with next round.

Notice in step #8, 3 shuttles are still attached. This gives me a choice of which shuttle to use to continue, if I have sufficient thread in each.

This heart is another example of 2 coloured tatting using red mock rings in center. The false ctm involves 2 balls and one shuttle (yellow is ctm ; yellow shuttle & red ball is false ctm). Since the outer round is simple rings and chains, I snip off and later hide the red tail, continuing only with yellow ball and shuttle. 

Above is an example where a ball and shuttle are used, but the threads are cut/different colours. Use shuttle to make the mock ring (tatting over ball tail) and climb out. Hide the shuttle tail in next element.

Ball can be replaced with a 2^nd shuttle. Colours can be switched. Possibilities galore.

In summary,

Anything that we do with CTM (continuous thread), can be done with False CTM, and much more, since the latter allows use of different colour. The main thing is to Look before starting and review choices. We don’t Need to start CTM every time a pattern calls for it. Use your discretion to convert it into false ctm, if required and play with leftover threads and colours.
My pictorials depict a sequence where the threads are in position for the next element or row. However, we can use a shoe lace trick (SLT) to change positions.


And don't forget to join me in my next post - I have a New snowflake that I am itching to show you, along with a pattern!!! 

false CTM Part 1

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Before the tatted rope jumped in, I had started an old doily pattern to keep my hands busy, but my mind disengaged in order to focus on pattern writing. But it, too, led to a ‘quick’ foray into ‘false CTM', something I’ve been doing a lot, in numerous situations, especially when working with 2 or more colours. I like this term recently coined by Jane McLellan.

CTM – continuous thread method, where we wind one shuttle, and thread stays continuous with the ball. Or in case of 2 shuttles,(and here, including comments), wind one shuttle, then without snipping off thread, wind the other.

We tatters prefer to start with a ring and also add new thread on a ring.

With ctm, one can start anywhere, even with a chain, with NO ends to hide. However, it works Only with single colour tatting, obviously.

False CTM is essentially the same but one of the threads is a fairly short, utilitarian length, and new thread is added at a distance. This new thread can be of same or different colour. 

It is a very convenient solution to -

• use up threads already on shuttles
• climb out for continuous work
• start with a chain
• start with 2 colours
• add a different colour, yet work continuously
• spot or localised treatment for mistakes

It avoids having to hide a lot of ends in a single element and allows tatter to choose a convenient location to add new thread/colour. 

This may not be new for most experienced tatters. For newer learners, I hope the listing will help.  

1. False ctm to climb out in continuous/one-pass tatting

1A. Mignonette and single-colour tatting :

I first remember hearing it in the Online Tatting Class with respect to mignonette. Mignonette is a single shuttle technique with tiny rings and tatters began pulling out a length of thread from their shuttle to work the few split rings required to climb out after each round, and work continuously. No more cut and tie and hide ends after each round.

1B. Multi-colour continuous tatting :

This is a doily where I used false ctm a few times, reducing the ends to hide and also tatting the next rounds continuously despite using different colours. Where possible, either the core thread or ball thread from previous round is continued, replacing only one thread to change colour.

TIP : How to add new thread to a chain is a very handy skill.

2. False ctm when starting with a chain

I always make knotless additions – tatting over tail(s), as can be seen in next examples. Follow your preferred method of starting/addition.

2A. False ctm in chain, adding to core thread, closest ring faces inwards (is to be worked with core thread). The chain will continue in same colour (mustard here), but the new core thread can be of different colour, hence rings will be in that colour. This works on a shuttle and ball pattern where the red shuttle can be a ball.

2B. False ctm in chain, adding to working thread, and closest ring is a thrown ring. Pull length from shuttle and use this for the chain stitches. 2 shuttles.

Notice and compare the position of pulled length, shuttle(s), nearest ring, etc. in 2A & 2B. It keeps the old & new shuttles in the right position to continue without the need for any SLT (shoe lace trick).

2C. False ctm in chain with starter picot, 
A dead end chain or one starting with a picot is best started with continuous thread. In cases where this is not possible, a false ctm is Ideal. Pull out a length to tat till we reach a point where new thread can be added and hidden easily.

I have covered this earlier, in 2017, along with a pdf of Starting with a Chain (and starter picot) in 2-Colour Tatting.  

But here is where and why it started - starting chain with false picot – Needleart 1921 edging #6 where I wanted a grape bunch with leaves effect. 

3. False ctm when correcting a mistake

Jane used it to correct a mistake and avoid hiding 4 ends in the same place. With a false ctm, she moved the starting knots on both threads further down, hiding ends in elements of her choice.

There are More scenarios when a false CTM is so handy! These will be in Part 2. I didn't go into too much details for each collage pic, since the main points are already covered at the start. However, if anything is confusing, please let me know what you want.

to be concluded in Part 2

UPDATE : Part 2 of False CTM posted here

teach me to count

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With shuttle in one hand and thread in the other (and toes curled in under me) how can I count on my fingers? Can you? No wonder I made mistakes... I need tutoring!

A while back I stumbled on to Liisa Maarit’s blog - Handmade by Liisa showcasing some beautiful lace along with pictorials and a few patterns.

I really liked her ‘rescued’ circular motif. So how many repeats can you count here? 9, right? Hmmm, that's 1 extra repeat extra! Irrespective, it turned out fine and lay flat.
Just over 5½ cms diameter in pearl cotton size 8 (white, & green  00225).

TIP : One can use Catherine Wheel Join in the 3^rd round for a more perfect circle. 
Here, I went with lock join followed by half stitch for a bit of floral arching.

In order to give it company I hunted through my books for a motif to go along and Lindsay Rogers' Repetition mat (with 9 repeats) in 'Mastering Tatting' appealed.

Worked in size 40 (shade 00368).

And guess what?? Yup, counting error Again. There are supposed to be 2 chains between clovers and I made one! So how many repeats did I need to complete the circle – 30!!!

The mistake led to some design-learning ...

DESIGN TIP :  Do you see how the little rings rise above?

If the rings were linked to each other through tiny picots close to the base (stabilising picots), it would’ve led to squishing and cupping. But since each ring was ‘free’ at the base, the little rings lifted above that constricting space. Textural effect!

I like the texture created. With beads, it could make a beautiful necklace! Looks nice as a collar, too.

Since it was meant to be a short round, I left the thread attached to ball. But shuttle ran out at 25th repeat. There was quite some length left, but not enough for a true ring.

TIP : So I used a slight variation of adding new thread within ring. I started SCMR with new shuttle thread acting as core, and old tail for stitches. The entire ring was done with the old tail. Then the tail ends were hidden in next 2 elements.

I now have to design/adapt rounds inside and out to make a snood. Sigh, and here I was going for something simple....

Many thanks to Liisa Maarit and apologies to Lyndsay Rogers

add new thread to bare thread pattern

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While using the SCMR to add new thread Within a ring, I wondered whether we could also use it in a bare thread or single shuttle pattern. Turns out we can, though it involves a bit of a twist in the tail.

Adding new thread to bare thread pattern 

with self-closing mock ring (SCMR)

I have already described one method of adding new thread, finishing off with a SSSR (link below). This new method is yet another option – very secure; no doubling of bare threads; easy to add new colours frequently; knotless. And it can be sew-free with MTT.

1. Let’s say I’m running low on thread after these 3 rings (each is 5-5-5-5). But I still have enough to make the stitches but not enough for the core thread.

2. Load another shuttle and add fold in the new thread (I used coloured thread for clarity), bringing the tail through as shown.

3. Then leave a loop of new core thread and start working stitches with old thread like a chain. This is the start of the SCMR. Tat over new tail for a few stitches.

(see Variation below)

TIP : In case the old thread is too short to wrap around pinky, tie a scrap/helper thread at the very tip with a weaver’s knot.

4. The ‘ring’ is complete.

5. Pass shuttle through the loop to close the SCMR.

6. Now pull the new TAIL up to close the ring. Notice the pink tail has become longer.

7. Both tails are visible – new thread and old thread.

8. Insert new tail through a tapestry needle and whip stitch back towards the base of the ring. This will ensure the stability and durability of the lace.

I guess one can use the Magic Thread Trick for sew-free hiding but I like to whip stitch the tails.

9.  Next sew in the old tail, moving up the ring on the right side.

10. Pull both tails to remove any slack. Then snip off the excess length in each. 

New thread added with bare thread between the rings!

Pull and tug but the tails/rings will not unravel.

Variation

A. A variation is to tie a knot with old thread encapsulated within it, leaving bare thread space before tightening the knot.

B. Leave a loop of the new core thread and start working the SCMR. Tat over the new tail, hiding it within the first few stitches.

Close the SCMR as usual buy assing shuttle through loop and pulling the core thread taut. With the new tail already hidden, we only need to whip stitch/hide the old tail on the right side of ring.

Heather (see link below) tats over both tails thus avoiding any sewing. I prefer hiding tails in different elements/stitches to avoid bulk.

I’m not sure how much this method will help because there are already so many to choose from. However, I did not find this SCMR method/variation and having already taken pictures, I decided to go ahead and share.

For quick reference, here are links to some of the other methods to add new thread to single shuttle/bare thread/rings-only patterns (random listing):

• Matthew Takeda’s luggage tag knot . It is the same as what Marilee Rockely shared as lark’s head knot. 
• Edda Gustella's Adding new thread to BT pattern.
• Carolivy shared her pictorial in this Craftree thread titled: Where to add new thread for this edging?
• Heather’s tatting over tails in a rings-only pattern. 
• My knotless method, ending last ring in a SSSR. This method can also be followed to add new thread – using the new tail to anchor the SSSR and then sewing in the new tail to the other side of the ring.
• For more resources, and updates check the annotated listing here. 

 happy tatting always J