teachable moments

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or learnable moments! 

 We are having a fun time playing games in our FB group, and surprisingly several teachable moments have arisen especially in our current event #tagmeEndrucks! Sharing tips, sharing resources, sharing options, ... There is even a hashtag #eptutorials in our FB group to locate them.

These short games are a good opportunity to learn and apply a 'new' technique, try something different, improve one's skills, experiment, find solutions.

#1. If you run out of thread in one shuttle before completing the project, simply do a shoelace trick (SLT) and switch threads if there is plenty of thread in the other shuttle. (SS - switch shuttle)
Or choose a convenient element further down the line to add new thread (false CTM).
Add new thread, knotless or with a knot, and hide ends simultaneously.
(a huge curated list of situations, options, tutorials - http://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html).

My resolve to never share the length of thread required in shuttles has strengthened after this project - my personal learning moment. Too many variables to factor in!

#2. We decided to use 2 colours to tat the model in order to clearly show which shuttle was in use. However, this meant the split rings were bi-colouted while their corresponding rings on the other side were a single colour, See the encircled areas.

Solution - Double core SSSR Karen Cabrera's lesson #43 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfILdiZ2C20&t=4s  

#3. Alternatives to Lock Join - Lock Join is needed when joining to a picot below our line of tatting or below the core thread. It is basic, convenient, and tiny. However it leaves a little dip and it also locks the core thread (the colour of the picot below is also more visible - see image below). For a smooth edge, there are alternatives such as Catherine Wheel Join, Anne Dyer's Join the Smooth Side, and the Slope and Roll Join, to name a few.

In the first pic, 3 white arrows indicate where the Lock Join was replaced with a Slope & Roll Join for an unbroken rows of stitches.

SLOPE & ROLL JOIN (SRJ)
[This was all meant to be part of the Joins in Shuttle Tatting series (2016!)... perhaps some day].

WHEN TO USE -
1. when the joining picot is below the line of tatting/below core thread.
2. when we want a smooth, unbroken line of stitches.

ADVANTAGES -
1. easier to accomplish than a CWJ
2. can be done with shuttle and ball
3. keeps the core thread sliding freely
4. can be used for ring or chain. Especially useful for Onion Rings or Concentric rings, hence also known as the Onion Ring Join
5. If the join is followed by the 2nd half-stitch, it resembles a double stitch. Hence it is a seamless or invisible join.
6. in 2-colour tatting, it creates a blipfree join.

DISADVANTAGES -
It is sometimes difficult to hold a picot space, especially a vsp, immediately before or after the SRJ since it appears to twist. After completing the 2nd half-stitch, ensure the space is intact and a slight tug with a hook/pick helps prop up the picot.

RESOURCES -
Debbie Arnold (coined the term SRJ)- https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4089642167730639&set=a.3691414670886726
Karen Cabrera (video Lesson 25) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6o3RT4bb9
Ninetta Carusoo (diagrams Simple Joins) - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ninettacaruso/6896834805/
The Online Tatting Class - https://www.theonlinetattingclass.com/technique-tools


Teaching or Learning are interchangeable, just as we have tons of options to choose from our tatting kitty and can change when needed!

Tutorials to all terms and techniques mentioned in this post can be found here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/tatting-resources.html

beaded SR braid part 1

Pin It now! Before delving back into the Endrucks Project, I had this strong urge to learn a few techniques/effects that are floating around for pretty beaded split ring bracelets. Keep learning, keep trying. 

Turns out I got only one method done before succumbing to that heart motif idea I shared in previous post and other behind-the-scene commitments. 

No progress on the heart and none on this study, either. Turns out there are too many methods and no time to go into each nuance at present. But hopefully a step here, a step there ...

    

Disclaimer: This is not a serious study of origins, primacy, etc. of technique and effect. It is my whimsical & random exploration and experimentation. I will keep adding to this personal learning journey as and when I can. 

I try to avoid stringing beads whenever possible ;-D - a logistical problem with the smallish Pony shuttles. Now Jon had once incorporated a separate string of beads into her tatting. So many lovely applications, but not on a split ring braid (SR braid). Called for some adaptation.

Beaded SR Braids

In order to clearly differentiate what comes from where -

1. shuttle 1 has pink thread strung with yellow seed beads;
2. shuttle 2 has green thread with purple seed beads; and,
3. where needed, a blue thread with pearl beads.

1. beads on third thread. 

Adaptation of Jon Yusoff's Beads on a String .

(http://tatsaway.blogspot.com/2016/03/beads-on-string.html)

I thought this would be easy. Turns out the 3rd thread needs to be anchored before starting next SR! Here is what I tried -

1. Weaving: The beaded thread weaves up and down between alternate rings. 

Well, it leaves a colour blip when brought to the front, (notice the blue between SR1 & SR2) unless using fine, invisible, or same colour thread. Further, the string would be too loose.

2. Encapsulation : To avoid any colour blip I prefer the first of 2 ways to encapsulate the beaded string.

NOTE:  KEEP beaded string at back of work throughout. 

2A. Encapsulating Within SR (in last half-stitch): Make SR but do not close yet. Move bead to center, make final half stitch and pass beaded string through the open loop (parallel to core thread) of half-stitch before tensioning and closing ring. Thus string is held tight through the last hs and start next SR.

TIP: do it through the 2nd half-stitch, then move string to the back again. It does not leave any imprint!

2B. Encapsulating Outside SR (in unflipped half-stitch): Close SR, move bead to center, then make an unflipped or wrapped stitch with SH1 encapsulating both remaining threads, and start next SR. (I did this before the 4th and also the 5th SRs above). 

This will leave a tiny space between 2 SRs, but it can become a design element.

In both encapsulation methods, the beaded string is not locked and can be pulled to adjust. I went to town pulling away (see above), but the braid can be smoothed back into shape easily.

Despite being invisible from the front, encapsulation simply moves the blip to the back as seen in above pic. Obviously, we need to choose a string that will not be seen as pointed out earlier. I used 3 contrasting colours for purpose of learning. 

3. Knotting: In order to lock the beaded string in place, knotting is required. 

3A. Knotting with 2 threads: We can make an overhand tie or SLT between 2 threads, one of which is the beaded string. In above pic, after closing last SR with bead in center, choose any one shuttle thread and the beaded thread to make the knot, then continue with next SR.

3B. Knotting with 3 threads: Or we can make a knot using all 3 threads (as seen at end). This makes a larger, more visible knot and increases distance between SRs, but can act as a design element.

This is it so far - all my own 'ideas'. 

But before posting, I did a bit more research and found the following !!! 

• https://web.archive.org/web/20160323004842/http://www.georgiaseitz.com:80/2002/beads/Hameedbrac.html - Saundra Hameed's Beaded Bracelet (2002) 
• https://web.archive.org/web/20160329114616/http://www.georgiaseitz.com/2002/beads/beadbasics.html - Saundra Hameed's Guide for Beaded tatting 2002 (scroll down to lower half) 
• https://flickr.com/photos/ninettacaruso/6289552896 - diagrammatic compilation by Ninetta Caruso

However, none of these resources make any reference to anchoring the 3rd thread (I didn't check any class logs for possible discussion).  

....to be explored further

lock join plus

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Many months back, in response to some curiosity and confusion among several tatters, I decided to illustrate the simple progression and functional similarity between a few techniques. Here the underlying common factor is the ubiquitous Lock Join. Add one extra step to the LJ, and it opens up the canvas to change colours, shuttles, and even direction of chains.

I took stepwise pics for each of the combinations back then, but preparing a proper stream-lined article has taken way more time than intended. I am immensely grateful to Anita Barry, Master Tatter, for her proofing and editing.

In order to make the document manageable, it is uploaded as a series of 5 pdfs, each a stand-alone (click on each title to download) –

PLEASE NOTE - Most of these are also Reposition Methods which can be used even without a lock join to change direction, create points or curves, etc.

1. Lock Join Plus – Executive Summary and practice Patterns for further exploration. (3 pages)

 

How one extra movement after a lock join can open up the canvas to change colours, shuttles, and even direction of chains. 

For starters, a simple 2-colour motif is used where all chains face the same direction. But for further exploration, more patterns are listed. 

2. LJ Plus - Lock Join (LJ) pictorial (1 page)

 

How to make the lock join using both up and down loops. 

Notice how the colour blips in the 2 right joins are larger than the remaining 3. If the down loop LJ is followed by a 2nd half-stitch, the blip is almost hidden completely.
Links to undo a LJ and variations that include making a LJ with 2^nd shuttle.
See also Lock Join in Mock Rings - 

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/06/mock-rings-2-lj-mock-onion-rings.html

3. LJ Plus – Reposition pictorial (1 page)

 

A laissez-faire crossing of threads. Simple, quick, vintage. Compare how chain segments change colour and the slight overlap at the start of each chain.

4. LJ Plus - Shoe Lace Trick (SLT) pictorial (1 page)

 

Tying a half knot outside the LJ – overhand tie or SLT. Again chain colours get switched. SLT also allows us to switch the core thread in instances when the shuttle is running low on thread.

5. LJ Plus – Reverse Join (RJ) pictorial (2 pages)

 

Encapsulating or entrapping the other thread within the LJ. Created by Elaine P Gan (tattingbox). 

Pics showing an up loop and a down loop. The latter 
minimises the colour blip in a RJ as well.

Functionally the same as crossing and SLT after LJ, but more elegant and efficient – a smooth transition.

After each or either of these, if we turn work, reverse work, switch shuttle, and/or direct tat (unflipped stitches) the next chain, we add another dimension – changing the direction of the chain! Along with colour. Our choices multiply! And we might even be able to work throughout with just one shuttle and ball. To explore these choices, some practice patterns are listed in the main pdf. Besides block tatting, think also of filet tatting, especially in 2 colours, where these can be used effectively. I forgot to mention the role of lock join plus in mock rings and mock onion rings, but you get the idea, right? Wherever you have 1 or more chains joined below, play with LJ Plus!

I used all the above 4 in this vintage edging from Priscilla Tatting Book3 Fig 29 where the chains move to and fro. We can turn work after each chain or we can work every alternate chain directly (reverse stitch - unflipped). I started with LJ, then tried reposition, SLT, and RJ after every 3^rd chain. Shuttle in hand changes depending on our choices.

So I'm sure there is no need to spell out why I presented this article/pdfs in the way I did? There is lot of scope to play and design because each method has it's own pluses and minuses!

Do you see a butterfly in the above arrangement? Time to pick up my shuttles again and work out a pattern ;-D
Before that you might get fed one more lesson, so stay locked in ;-P

UPDATE 1: (2021) When working with only one shuttle and ball, changing the direction of chain using direct tatting - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/06/2nd-shuttle-or-ball.html 

UPDATE 2: (2021) Carrying on with functional movements, see pictorial Twist Work (TwW) -

 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1To6YwZSkh2ffQH3XBcKZ-Ed3l4myW34c/view 

UPDATE 3: (2026) The Catherine Wheel Join pictorial accompanied by diagrams by Ninetta Caruso- https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UmmjBqNwwQYIb9Ms9_-T5K6dPnZENCwl/view  

UPDATE 4: (2026) Beaded Lock Join (based on Vicki Clarke's suggestion) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rL7ZLsSUwKqmkZy210yqP03RgVAsUOxN/view  

springing flowers

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...and surprise emails… Stay at home orders have truly unleashed the learning and creative founts of tatters! Emails asking for help have increased, too. One such was a request to test a 2-colour re-writing of Julie Patterson’s Spring Flowers bookmark in order to help out a friend.  

Got on it right away and experimented with a few little spring flowery effects. 
Though not mentioned in the original pattern, it is best worked with 2 shuttles.

Mogra Gajra (garland)

In order to get a feel of the pattern, I worked it in single colour, 2 shuttles. This is the easiest to accomplish and simply by switching shuttles, one can keep all elements flat and in position.

TWoT Notes : This pattern moves en bloc like Mary Konior’s glass mat or Sushma's bookmark. I’ve come across a few such patterns where shuttle 1 is the main shuttle for a block of work and then shuttle 2 takes over for the next block and so on. This is especially evident in frontside/backside tatting. 

Palash / Flame of the Forest Twig

My next red and brown version is the flame of the forest (Butea monosperma or palash) tree in full bloom! One of my favourite flowers to draw in ink.

In order to get the colours in position, shoe lace trick (SLT) had to be used. I am not a fan of this and later tried many little tweaks, including capturing the brown thread in the single red ring to avoid SLT. Nothing worked to my satisfaction since the twig does not remain in the same plane as the flower. It tends to start beneath the 4-ring cluster.

I ended the twig with padded double stitches, getting a straight, thick branch.

Lavender Sprig

My final version is clearly lavender! Love the colours here. 

In this case, I used an unflipped half stitch in place of the SLT. Unlike regular reverse stitches, it is manoeuvred in such a way that the half stitch faces in same direction as the ensuing chain. Images 3A to 3C give an idea of what I did - twist work in reverse stitch. The shuttles switch position!

I like this method best for 2 colours as you can see that every element lies flat in the same plane.

UPDATE: one page pictorial for Twist Work - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1To6YwZSkh2ffQH3XBcKZ-Ed3l4myW34c/view

To compare front and back views of all three -

view from the back

All 3 are worked in Anchor Pearl Cotton size 8 and are 1” wide. Length depended on the thread left on shuttles. Due to this narrow length, I'm going to use these as tails in a future bookmark(s), hence left the tail threads uncut.

I love the pattern – the clean lines and turns – it is exciting to work. However it is floppy (the SLT one is floppier than the others) unless sewed down. So stiffening will be needed or inserting it into a sleeve. Or one can add a joining picot to the 3^rd ring and link the chain to it.

Beads can add colour and sparkle, and decorative picots can change the look of the flowers. Something to try in future.

Many thanks to Julie for sharing her pattern and 

Jill for throwing the opportunity my way :-)

Cluny basic colour variation

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Colour Cluny Tatting contd.

In the previous post the tally was worked in a single colour. But what if we wish to use 2 colours in a pattern? There are a few examples out there, but I find that the tallies are of the same colour in all. In a couple of examples, SLT was used to switch colours for the next element. What if we could switch the colours easily within the tally, with no need for a SLT? It’s what I tried in this braid and motif.

Confession: My Cluny leaves are far from perfect. Please do not let my limitations dissuade you from trying it out yourself. I’m sure you will do a much better job than I.

What we have here is a kind of transition between the basic single colour tally (where both loom & weaving threads are of same colour) and the multicoloured tallies where 2 or more colours can be seen in the leaf itself. As in the basic Cluny, we are still using only 2 threads, albeit in different colours. And this entails an additional step to hide colour blip.

UPDATE : practice pattern for basic colour variation : 2-Tone Cluny Bracelet.

Cluny Tatting –Basic Colour Variation

Basic (2 threads) Cluny tatting in 2 colours

(where Warp/loom thread is of different colour)
Resultant tally is single coloured

The following will be covered here :

• Weaving a different coloured tally (2 ways – A & B)
• Exiting in a way that the desired colours/shuttles are in position for next element (A4 & B2).
• Hiding a colour blip (A6 &B3)

Click here for how to wind the loom and detailed steps on weaving.
UPDATE : See also new step – hitch the loom

 

A1. As seen, the loom/Warp threads are mustard, while the weaving thread is green.

A2. We start weaving by bringing the shuttle to the right – Under Warp2 & Over Warp3

 

A3. First pass made to the left – Under, Over, Under. To complete the 1 wrap/weave, bring shuttle back to right – Over, Under, Over. (not shown here)

A4. The tally is woven and shaped. Shuttle is back to the starting position - on the right.

 A5. Start closing loom by pulling the top loop off the loom.

A6. If we close normally, the Warp colour will show at the tip. 

In order to minimize it, I introduced an extra step : 

Pass shuttle back-to-front through the top loop …

NOTE : In certain cases, it may become necessary to pass shuttle front-to-back.

 

A7. … the shuttle is through and we can start closing the top loop

A8. Top loop is closed. Now close the bottom loop.

 

A9. All loops closed and tally is complete. 

Notice I haven’t pulled the lower loop tight enough, leaving a colour blip at the bottom (I still need lots of practice). This would be unnoticeable in a single colour basic tally, but when working with more than one colour, it can pose a problem.

If we follow this weaving pattern, there is a tendency for the weaving thread to emerge on the right, and the loom shuttle on the left.

A10. If we want to change colour placement in the next element, we would normally resort to the SLT/overhand tie as I did in this case. But, the following pictures show how we can avoid the SLT.

I took this opportunity to also show the other way to weave (Ninetta pointed it out in her comment). No right or wrong, it’s just how one prefers to work, as long as one is consistent. 

B1. After the SLT, the shuttles got switched and loom is made with green, 

and weaving is done with mustard.

Here, the weaving commences from left to right by going Over Warp2, Under Warp3.

 Move to left is Over, Under, Over (not shown) Continue weaving.

 B2. Tally is woven and shaped. The shuttle is on the left, and it is time to close.

 B3. To avoid colour blip, pass shuttle, back-to-front, through top loop….

 B4. … shuttle is through. Now close all loops.

 B5. This closure brings the weaving shuttle to the left and loom shuttle to the right.

So basically, 

the last pass determines whether the weaving shuttle will emerge on the right or the left.

If the last pass is to the right (as in A4), weaving shuttle will emerge on the right 

and loom shuttle on the left.

If last pass is to the left (as in B2), weaving shuttle will emerge on the left 

and loom shuttle on the right.

Where you park your shuttle, is where you will pick it up from – the left curb or the right curb. And in case you want it on the other side, then take a U-turn, i.e., weave one extra pass and you land on the curb of your choice!

Couldn’t resist a bit of frivolity ;-P 

It is what I followed in the Cluny Flower Motif pattern by Jennifer Williams. No SLTs. I chose to make the short chain between tallies in maroon, but could just as easily have made them in pink by choosing where to leave the weaving on the last pass.

In Anchor size 20 : Rnd1 - 1¼” ; Rnd2 - >2"

One can see my tallies get a wee bit better as I go along. One of the pink tallies is actually shorter than the others. I keep losing track of the count when weaving ;-(

Further, I didn’t RW to join to the center ring, opting for a lock join instead. This meant I could tat the entire Cluny round clockwise from the front.

All Cluny Tatting posts with lots of tips and possibilities

We’ve taken the first steps towards colour Cluny tatting. From the next post on, we start with the tallies that have more than one colour in their weave! I found that a bit more exciting (my tallies came out better, too), though one does need to manage the extra threads. Hope you stay tuned...

I’d like to thank Jane McLellan with all my heart.

Appreciate her indulgence and help as we tried to figure out a suitable name 

for this transitional basic to multi-colour Cluny tatting.

…to be continued

floating with tatting

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updated Jan 24, 2018 with schematic for earring

Pozdrawiam ciepło (I greet warmly).

This month’s task for “I Love Tatting” is titled “Goose Circle” – isn’t that cute! Justyna listed some tutorials and examples of bead(s) within rings and also alternate forms of beading. I’ve already used the bead in SR and in SCMR in a few of my own patterns & other projects. Since “floating beads” was also a listed option, I chose to float along :-).  

Peacock earrings and Charmed Cross pendant

I used the floating bead (FB) method to add both teardrops in the Charmed Cross pendant – yes, this is the final version. I’ve added more crystal beads and the horizontal arms don’t look like stumps any more. But more on that when I share the pattern.

There are 2 versions of the Peacock earrings. 

These are derived from this dancing peacock medallion.

Worked with 2 shuttles, 2 colours.

Anchor embroidery threads are used : 3 strands of each colour woven with 1 strand of silver.

The bead in the center and the teardrops were added when required, using floating beads method. Seed beads are pre-strung for the overlying string.

For outermost round, one can use seed beads instead of picots, but I didn’t have any in suitable size/colour.

In version 2, I tried a little heart shape in the green, and a slightly tipped point in the blue. 

For outermost round, one can use seed beads instead of picots, 

but I didn’t have any in suitable size/colour.

After working the outermost blue chain to required length, 

I used a shoelace trick (SLT) to lock it in place. This also created the sharper tip.

These earrings are free-style and I didn’t follow any strict stitch count. But I will share the sequence :

1. Start with topmost ring, attaching the findings.
2. Add large bead (red crystal or gold) using floating beads method (or pre-strung).
3. Work innermost ring in blue around the bead, with picot small midways.
4. Bring forth the seed beads and create a layer around blue ring. Lock join to base of ring.
5. Switch shuttles and work green chain. Join to blue ring. In version 1, add a small picot for linking next round; in version 2, make chain longer and lock join to blue ring.
6. Over and under or Alligator join across base of rings, switch shuttles, and work the outermost round in blue with decorative picots. In version 1, join to green ring then add FB teardrop midways. In version 2, make chain longer, SLT, add FB teardrop, continue around.
7. Tie and cut; hide ends.

UPDATE : Diagram included in the Dancing Peacocks pdf. Click to download

Beads give us the opportunity to add more colours without having to use extra shuttles!

One can pre-string the teardrop (or sew it on later) instead of floating bead method. But I like how the FB makes the bead dangle a little further from the stitches. Also, since I use Pony shuttles that are too small to load large beads, this is a convenient alternate.

I hope you take the time to check out what the other talented participants have created. 

to the love of tatting, with beads