teachable moments

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or learnable moments! 

 We are having a fun time playing games in our FB group, and surprisingly several teachable moments have arisen especially in our current event #tagmeEndrucks! Sharing tips, sharing resources, sharing options, ... There is even a hashtag #eptutorials in our FB group to locate them.

These short games are a good opportunity to learn and apply a 'new' technique, try something different, improve one's skills, experiment, find solutions.

#1. If you run out of thread in one shuttle before completing the project, simply do a shoelace trick (SLT) and switch threads if there is plenty of thread in the other shuttle. (SS - switch shuttle)
Or choose a convenient element further down the line to add new thread (false CTM).
Add new thread, knotless or with a knot, and hide ends simultaneously.
(a huge curated list of situations, options, tutorials - http://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html).

My resolve to never share the length of thread required in shuttles has strengthened after this project - my personal learning moment. Too many variables to factor in!

#2. We decided to use 2 colours to tat the model in order to clearly show which shuttle was in use. However, this meant the split rings were bi-colouted while their corresponding rings on the other side were a single colour, See the encircled areas.

Solution - Double core SSSR Karen Cabrera's lesson #43 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfILdiZ2C20&t=4s  

#3. Alternatives to Lock Join - Lock Join is needed when joining to a picot below our line of tatting or below the core thread. It is basic, convenient, and tiny. However it leaves a little dip and it also locks the core thread (the colour of the picot below is also more visible - see image below). For a smooth edge, there are alternatives such as Catherine Wheel Join, Anne Dyer's Join the Smooth Side, and the Slope and Roll Join, to name a few.

In the first pic, 3 white arrows indicate where the Lock Join was replaced with a Slope & Roll Join for an unbroken rows of stitches.

SLOPE & ROLL JOIN (SRJ)
[This was all meant to be part of the Joins in Shuttle Tatting series (2016!)... perhaps some day].

WHEN TO USE -
1. when the joining picot is below the line of tatting/below core thread.
2. when we want a smooth, unbroken line of stitches.

ADVANTAGES -
1. easier to accomplish than a CWJ
2. can be done with shuttle and ball
3. keeps the core thread sliding freely
4. can be used for ring or chain. Especially useful for Onion Rings or Concentric rings, hence also known as the Onion Ring Join
5. If the join is followed by the 2nd half-stitch, it resembles a double stitch. Hence it is a seamless or invisible join.
6. in 2-colour tatting, it creates a blipfree join.

DISADVANTAGES -
It is sometimes difficult to hold a picot space, especially a vsp, immediately before or after the SRJ since it appears to twist. After completing the 2nd half-stitch, ensure the space is intact and a slight tug with a hook/pick helps prop up the picot.

RESOURCES -
Debbie Arnold (coined the term SRJ)- https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4089642167730639&set=a.3691414670886726
Karen Cabrera (video Lesson 25) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6o3RT4bb9
Ninetta Carusoo (diagrams Simple Joins) - https://www.flickr.com/photos/ninettacaruso/6896834805/
The Online Tatting Class - https://www.theonlinetattingclass.com/technique-tools


Teaching or Learning are interchangeable, just as we have tons of options to choose from our tatting kitty and can change when needed!

Tutorials to all terms and techniques mentioned in this post can be found here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/tatting-resources.html

a Celtic flip

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Remember how I wondered about a Celtic variation here? This is how I went ahead to complete a Celtic variation of Ninetta’s Curled Ring ice drop.

Notice there are no curled rings here, but the beaded rings are raised. I was hoping for more of a water lily effect.  

The pattern for 2 motifs/medallions remains the same as Ninetta's original (I have inked the count in the pic above for easy reference).

BUT, I flipped the cabochon, switching the motifs in the process : the lower one is now in the front/on top, and vice versa.

I didn’t tat a new one, simply added to what was already tatted. One can call this a prototype variation if you will,  with scope for improvement. 

For outermost green round, after the first lock join to previous round, I continued with the Slope and Roll join. It looked better.

There was a very geometric and open shape after completing the green, hence I added more silver rings in the empty spaces to look more like petals. If properly planned, a full round of 16 silver petals would give it more of a lotus/water lily effect. 

as seen from the back

I still don’t understand why the outline is more square than circular despite all chains being 7-7 ! Anybody?

In Gautam (green size 8) and Red Rose (size 20) metallic threads, the motif/pendant measures 4½ cms across and 5½ cms diagonally. The cab is 2cms.

Sharon's flakes

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Just too tempting to forego! Sharon shared 2 new snowflake patterns recently and I got to work immediately. Now, they look pristine in white, and snowflakes should be white. But you know me – I want to spice up the challenge and took to colours to see how they’d look. Also, to bring out the flower within.

This is the first snowflake (pattern here) originally worked continuously with one shuttle and ball, climbing out with a split chain. 

My coloured  rendition is done with 3 strands of Anchor embroidery thread 

which is equivalent to a Lizbeth 20. And no split chains.

Black shuttle for central ring & orange 0333 'ball' for rosette chains : <1¼" or <3cms

Mustard 0306, ctm : <2¼" or 5½ cms

Green 0204, ctm : 3" or 7½ cms

T{|{T

This is the 2^nd snowflake she posted here.

I used Anchor 40 this time, but worked continuously. 

Measurements after each round : 1”  ;  1½”  ; 2½" or 6 cms. 

Started with maroon, ctm for the central ring and 1^st round, then switched the core thread to cream. I kept the maroon shuttle, but snipped off the ball. 

In order to get the desired colour placement and eliminate colour blips, I used 

the Slope & Roll join instead of lock join in the 2 outer rounds; 

SLT to make the split chain in maroon, 

and the Reverse Join to switch positions after the split chain.

I remembered how to do the split chain, but unfortunately the colour is hard on the eyes and somehow that segment twisted while linking. The camera shows it all, sigh !

Future Ideas:  
This snowflake could work beautifully as repeatable motifs linked for a larger lace. 
But as I worked the outer round, it struck me how beautiful it would look as a continuous doily – the ‘formula’ for the last round can be repeated (with additional side rings) ad infinitum without having to change the stitchcount at all! 
Perhaps one of the middle or last round can have the central floral motif all around ?!

T{|{T

Wish I'd taken pics after each round for both snowflakes, 

because each round is beautiful and elegant!!!

In fact the rosette reminded me of a poppy despite the orange shade.  

T{|{T

And playing around, notice how cozily the 2 designs can fit together ....

 

T{|{T

I absolutely love Sharon's diagrams – simple and clear. 

And you can find the legend to those cute symbols here. 

Many many thanks, Sharon!

Clunied !

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2-Tone Cluny Bracelet

aka 

Ganga-Jamuni bracelet

This bracelet is based on the basic Cluny tatting with colour variation pictorial. I chose these 2 colours in order to complement the beads I had – notice the subtle colour striations? And the name was chosen accordingly, though it’s Indian name could be Ganga-Jamuni bracelet – symbolising a fusion of colours and techniques (taking off from a fusion of Hindu & Muslim cultures symbolised by the rivers Ganga & Yamuna).

One can work it in one colour with no need to think of where the shuttles should be. Working with 2 colours brings a degree of interest and apparent complexity since one has to ensure the colours are switched correctly. I’ve employed various little tricks to smoothen the transition between colours, as seen in the process pics. I make the ‘switch’ within the previous element itself. But it is all optional – you can work at will, using SLT if you like.

Materials :

·         2 shuttles (or needles)

·         Anchor size 20 thread in 2 colours 
(I used the light 00366 in shuttle1 & the dark 00896 in shuttle2).

·       Seed beads : 14 beads size 16/0 per repeat. 
For 8 repeats load 112 beads. String 56 beads in each shuttle.

·        2-tone beads : 1 per repeat (+1 for end) size 5/0. 
For 8 repeats, 9 loose beads required.

·         A Cluny loom of your choice.

·         A crochet hook to load the loose beads.

·         Findings for the bracelet.

Techniques :

• 2-shuttle tatting ;
• Add findings ;
• Lock stitch (1 unflipped half stitch; 1 flipped half stitch)
• Under-Over or Alligator join ;
• Slope and roll join
• Cluny tatting ;
• Working with beads.

Measurements :

3 repeats (including beads) = 5 cms long

Final bracelet (end to end): 1½cms wide and 7 inches (<19cms) long

Abbreviations :

          Sh – shuttle ;  vsp – very small picot ;  b – seed bead

Pattern

Pre-string 56 seed beads on each shuttle and join both shuttle threads.

All tatting is done from the front, progressing from the left to right end.

With Sh1 -

End Ring1 : 10, with finding.

Join Bead.

With Sh2 - Lock stitch to hold bead in place.

Wind loom with Sh1 and weave tally with Sh2 …

Tally: 12 wraps. Emerge from the right side, hiding the colour blip. This ensures that the shuttles automatically switch positions.

With Sh2 –

Chain: vsp, 2 b 2 b 2 bbb 2 b 2 b 2 rotate , Under-Over join across base of tally ,

2 b 2 b 2 bbb 2 b 2 b 2, join to vsp as shown in pics. This method of joining automatically switches the shuttle positions & hides colour blip.

Join Bead as before.
With Sh1 - Lock stitch to hold bead in place.

Wind loom with Sh2 and weave tally with Sh1 …

Repeat tally and chain motif for desired length, switching colours.

To Finish :

Join Bead as before.
With Sh1 –

End Ring2 : 10, with findings.

Tie and cut and hide threads. 

Process

 1. Start first end ring with finding and continue from pic #2.

I tatted 4 repeats before deciding to take process pics. 

 2. Pull up a Sh1 loop through a loose bead, pass Sh2 through this loop …

3. …pull Sh1 such that both threads are now within the bead. Adjust tension.

I first saw this in Usha Shah's Lanyard #4.

 4. Pick shuttle2 and make 1 lock stitch. 

I made unflipped 1^st half stitch, and flipped 2^nd half stitch.

5. Wind loom with Sh1 and start weaving with Sh2.

Refer here for detailed pictorial  

6. Ensure that Sh2 is on the right side before closing the tally.
Hide colour blip as described in A6 & A7 .

Pick up Sh2, move seed beads forward on Sh1 to start chain.

7. Make a very small picot at start of chain.

To cross over to other side, rotate work and make an Under and Over join.

8. Complete the chain and make a slope and roll join to vsp as follows :

Pull a SH1 loop through the vsp and pass Sh2 through it…

 9. Tension the threads such that the SH1 loop is NOT pulled back through the picot.

This method ensures that there is no colour blip And the shuttles switch positions.

All odd numbered motifs are worked in above manner.

 10. Repeat Steps #2 to #9, but with the shuttles switched.
All even numbered motifs are worked accordingly, 
starting with shuttle2 in place of shuttle1. 

Continue for desired length, switching colours/shuttles accordingly.

End with another 10 ds ring with finding attached.

TIP : Continue for a longer length to make a necklace. In the middle, after a chain around a tally, add another beaded chain(s) on one or both sides, to act as a pendant.

Clunied !!!

I am so thoroughly Clunied! Earlier this month I bought a set of bathroom mats – not my style, not my colour, and it took us a few days to get used to that large print and relatively bold colour! But guess what – don’t you see Cluny leaves there? Freudian slip or serendipity?! 

happy tatting J

connecting with joins

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Wanting to get back on track last month, I chose a ‘simple’ one like Day 10. But as always, I have a penchant for complicating everything ! I have continued to play with colour combinations & placements in this snowflake, too.

The Tenth Day of December Snowflake

Lene Björn

from 24 Snowflakes in Tatting

for 2016 Snowflake Challenge on Craftree

Con-joined !

Visualization : The USP of this snowflake, for me, is the elegant curves of the long chains, which I wanted to highlight in a single colour (yellow here), keeping the rest of the pattern in the background. Could this be accomplished without an overhand tie, since the SLT would create a slight dent or break in the chain ?! If not SLT, then what else ???  

Round 1 – measures just over 1”

3 strands of Anchor embroidery cotton : 0325 .

Techniques : single shuttle, rings-only, join last ring to first ring, hiding ends with SSSR, and hiding ends with whip stitch.

Simple round. To avoid hiding ends, I used SSSR for last ring . And hid the other tail with whip stitch on pink segment of 1^st ring. 

The whip stitch really works !!! Much easier, too, and I have been using it this past month. Thanks Carollyn !

Round 2 – measures 3¼” final

Anchor Size 40 yellow 4054-0293 in shuttle 1

Anchor Size 50 lavender 4054-098 in shuttle 2

Techniques : 2 shuttles, mock rings, Reverse Join (RJ), outer thread join (otj) , ball thread join, folded chain, picot joins (PJ), floating or thrown rings (FR), decorative & graduated picots.

fhs - first half stitch ; shs - second half stitch ; vsp - very small picot

To fold chain, start with a very small picot followed by seta (2fhs) or by setb (2shs). Folding the chain automatically reverses work, re-positioning the shuttles/threads. The same is true for reverse join, where shuttle positions get switched. Hence, one may have to continue to tat from the back side, even though this has not been indicated in the pics. (Please note : all pics, except #6, are taken from front side, even though work may have been reversed)

Working Round 2

Except for the lavender floating ring, all tatting was done with shuttle 1 .

1. Mock ring in order to split it into 2 colours. Reverse Join used to link to Rnd 1.

I also experimented with outer thread join, but preferred RJ. 

2. Fold chain (vsp, seta) at end so that lavender thread comes to the left ; 

normal picot join to vsp of previous chain to make a 2-coloured mock ring (inset)

 3. Make last picot of floating ring very small ; fold chain (vsp. setb) at end .

 4. Reverse Join to Round 1 ; again complete 2-coloured mock ring, but with reflected colours.

 5. Ball thread join to vsp on lavender floating ring. 

Now there are yellow picots on either side of lavender ring !

6. (as seen from back) Make normal picot on chain; fold chain ; 

Reverse Join to Rnd 1, and continue from 1.

  

My notes :

• To compensate for difference in thread sizes, I added a few stitches to size 50 lavender in Round 2.
• The picots on both sides of the lavender floating ring should’ve been longer. This would’ve prevented the yellow chains from being pulled into an angular curve. The yellow chains stayed continuous, no breaks or colour blips, but the elegant curves were lost due to the picot lengths.
• It was only after the 2^nd join, that I realized that the picot colours on either side of the lavender ring were different !!! (arrows in pic below show the mismatch on either side of lavender rings)
  
  The ball thread join came in handy here. I chose yellow picots, but the alternate is equally possible – keeping all picots lavender. (pic #6) Hmm, yes, I should've gone with lavender picots ! 

Outer thread join is something I have used (& spoken of) in my patterns for a long time, without knowing the correct name. It is Teiko Fujito's "outer thread joining method". I even confused it with the slope & roll join since it's construction is basically the same, except that one ‘pops’ the shuttle thread through the picot. This ‘pop’ encapsulates the core (SH1) thread, giving a blipfree join. The formative movements are the same as split ring joins . 

And the fun part is that shuttles can be switched in function, but the result will remain the same !!! (more on this in a future post - Part IV of Joins in Shuttle Tatting series)

My visualization did not take shape, but the happy note is that I could figure out how to choose a path(s) in order to reach the destination. Learning never goes to waste, and my growing repertoire of tatting techniques & diverse joins afforded me this freedom. I may tat this one again.

I have completed Day 7 using 3-coloured onion rings a long time back, but haven't been able to put together a post. Am currently on the last part of Day 17, where again I have used the running scroll to create mock rings in same colour, without SLT. That takes care of 10 snowflakes. To be on par, I still need to tat 2 more snowflakes this month.

Renulek's Wiosna Round 10 is over, but needs to be blocked before photographing.

happy tatting :-)

Related Posts : outer thread join in Tiny Heart Poppy

Joins in shuttle tatting Part II

Lene's Snowflakes Day 1 , Day 2 , Day 3 , Days 4 & 5 , Day 6 , Day 11

Tatting Pattern : Tiny Heart Poppy - part 1

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Tiny Heart Poppy
A  3D  Tatted Flower

muskaan  (Aug 15, 2014)

I am seriously into writing & uploading the pattern in pdf format, exploring combinations & avenues that work for me without too much hassle or learning, .... but am finding that it is taking me more time than initially anticipated. Hence, I’ve decided to share the pattern in stages, so that if anybody is interested, they can start tatting along. It will also give me time to tweak the final pattern with any feedback & suggestions provided, as well as work without any pressure.

Another reason is that it will allow me to explain certain elements in more detail.

While notations & diagrams are provided, I am also writing it in longer script …

The flower can be made Very Quickly, even though the written format seems long :-)

Peace & Tolerance Tiny Heart by Mónica Manceñido is the base for the flower petal. Hence I have named it Tiny Heart Poppy, in appreciation of her versatile original pattern.

For more examples of the versatility, check out my previous 'Designing 101 post' ;-)

In order to write out the pattern, I have followed Jane Eborall's notation to a large extent.

I apologize for the unprofessional diagram ... hoping to do a much better job learning & drawing on a new program ...

Poppy Flower

Materials

Anchor Mercer Crochet Cotton Size 20

For petals : Red 046

For centre : Yellow 0289 , Black

2 shuttles

Main techniques used :

For petals : Split Ring (optional) ; Roll Tatting ; Lock Join ; Slope & Roll Join

For centre : Josephine Rings arranged perpendicularly ; Floral Picot Chain ( in part 2 of pattern to be uploaded later )

Petals : Round 1

Techniques & abbreviations :
fhs - 1st half stitch of ds
shs - 2nd half stitch of ds

CTM – continuous thread method

R – ring

Ch – chain

–  (dash) – very small picot (as small as possible, for joining purposes only)

. (dot) – close ring

RW – Reverse Work

DNRW – Do Not Reverse Work

FS/BS – Front side/Back side tatting (optional)

SR – split ring (can be optional)

SS – switch shuttle

rs – reverse stitch / lark’s head knot / reverse double knot / 2^nd half of SR stitch

+ (plus) – join (where to join is indicated within brackets)

/ (slash) – after the slash mark, rs or 2^nd half of SR

• Flower is composed of 3 petals, made in one pass, 2 rounds, tatted in clockwise direction.
• A yellow & black centre is added later. (pattern for this in Part 2)
• IMP : All picots in the petals are very very small picots, mainly for joining purposes.
• TIP : For beginners : If one in uncomfortable with Split Rings, the 3 petals can be tatted separately/individually & joined as one tats along. But remember to add picots & avoid twist when 3^rd petal is joined to 1^st ! Click for Tiny Heart Pattern
• *In some rings, in order to keep the stitch count the same, I have made a picot Within a ds eg. ( 2ds, 1 fhs, vsp, 1 shs, 2ds ) .This is notated as ( 2½ - 2½ ) ; thus total ds count for this segment would be 5 . But one could try it with ( 2-3 ) or (3-2) as long as the same count is followed throughout.
• Option : FS/BS tatting, for some chains, is indicated by italics & red text colour.
• No tails need to be hidden as they will be encapsulated later.

2 shuttles, CTM, with red colour thread

Refer to Diagram below ...

Petal 1 –

R A : 4 - 2½* - 2½ - 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R B : 4 + (to A) 12 . DNRW  SS

Ch : 5  DNRW  SS

R C : 12 – 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R D : 4 + (to C) 2½ - 2½ - 4 . DNRW

SR E : 4 + (to D) 2/ join to base of Ring A with Sh2 (to form clover), 4 + (to A) 2 – 3 – 3 . DNRW

1^st petal (tiny heart) made.

Petal 2 –

SR F : 2 – 4 / 3 – 3 – 2 – 4 . DNRW

R G : 4 + (to F) 2½ + (to D) 2½ - 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R H : 4 + (to G) 12 . DNRW  SS

Ch : 5  DNRW  SS

R I : 12 – 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

SR J : 4 + (to I) 2½ / join to base of Ring F, 4 + (to F) 2½ . DNRW

2^nd petal (tiny heart) made.

Petal 3 –

SR K : 2½ - 4 / 2½ - 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R L : 4 + (to K) 12 . DNRW  SS

Ch : 5  DNRW  SS

R M : 12 – 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R N : 4 + (to M) 2½ + (to A of 1^st petal) 2½ - 4 . DNRW

SR O : 4 + (to N) 2 + (to E of 1^st petal) 3 – 3 + (to F of 2^nd petal) / join to base of Ring K, 4 + (to K) 2 .

3^rd petal complete.

One poppy flower with 3 petals made. But do not cut thread yet.

TIP : One can forego All Reverse Work & tat purely from the front side by using Reverse Stitch ( also known as Lark’s Head Knot, Direct Tatting, Wrapped/Unflipped stitch or Reverse Double Knot as in Directional Tatting). This is applicable wherever FS/BS tatting is indicated in red. So, instead of FS/BS, do the rs & don’t see the reverse of the work !

Petals : Round 2

Techniques & abbreviations :

Lj – Lock Join

RT – Roll Tatting

S&R J – Slope & Roll Join

Bring the threads up to the picot join between rings J & K & make a Lock Join (as indicated in diagram). You can either bring up the bare threads (since it is a very short distance), or a chain of 2-3 ds can be made to ‘climb out’, and then Lj to outer picot join.

From this point on, Roll tatting chains are made & joined at regular intervals, to create an outline encompassing each tiny heart petal.

• The roll count may vary by a couple of wraps, depending on tension, etc.
• Since there are no free picots on the outer margins of the petals/rings, some joins will have to be made through a ds cap. 

Here is the wrap count, ( +/- 1 wrap ) :

**RT 17 , S&Rjoin to center of ring L, 
RT 23 , S&Rjoin to ring M, 
RT 23, S&Rjoin to center of 5chain, 
RT 17, Lj to picot between rings N & A.

Repeat from ** twice, to encompass the 2 remaining petals.

Lj to starting point.

It is not necessary to cut the threads. Bring them to the centre, join to any central picot. Leave a tail of 6-7 inches, cut. These tails will serve during encapsulation for the stem.

TIP : Patty Dowden shared this wonderful tip in same thread. “If I am roll tatting a ring or a chain and need to join to a picot, I just start an up join and then I don't finish the second half. By simply working the first half of a join, the appearance of the roll tatting is preserved and the join is just fine.”

Moreover, there is no need to do a ds before & after a join. “I like to keep my roll tatting as roll tatting from start to finish.”

The visual outcome is Amazing !

TIP : Another way of doing the Slope & Roll Join :

Slope & Roll Join can be made in following manner, which I find easier & quicker as the motion of shuttle remains fluid, all in same direction. End result is the same. We have discussed this in a Craftree thread here

It can be made when one is working with 2 shuttles or a shuttle & ball :
To make this join :
1. Bring Sh1 thread up through picot/space to make a loop (as in normal picot joins) ;

2. Pass Sh2 through this loop;

3. TUG at Sh1 thread to PULL DOWN Sh2 thread ;

4. And simultaneously snug the wrap/join. It should become smooth & allow the previous stitches to move freely on the core thread ie. Sh1 thread. (it does not lock the stitches)

Patty D has pointed out that this is similar to Teiko Fujito's "outer thread joining method" (post #3 in above thread)

UPDATE : In the next post, here -  part 2 of Tiny Heart Poppy pattern - is the rest of the pattern : how to make the centre of the flower & the buds & leaves ....

Motif #17 for 25 Motif Challenge

Related Posts : Peace & Tolerance Tiny Heart , Tiny Heart Poppy pattern part 2 , 

Perpendicular Concentric Rings for flower centre, How to make the bud part 1  & part 2