happy Endrucks 3

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 Continuing from part 2 (https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2023/09/happy-endrucks-2.html), this is the final batch of pics. All tatted solely by Krystyna Mura, and derived from just one doily pattern #31 of Endrucks' ‘Die Schiffchen-Spitzen’, 1920. And if you were amazed by the first two batches, be wowed by the following! 

Link to the pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lcQrl0f6PdLYApe4YVM2ZVorLsHToAm1/view and part 1 - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2023/09/happy-endrucks-1.html

YOUNG  EINSTEIN

I for one could never in my wildest dreams imagine this! Would somebody be inspired to tat the iconic older Einstein, too, LOL?!

 

STRONGMAN

And flipped over, we have this! Tatted optical illusion.

DOG  ROSE

One more version in pale lilac tints is in the pdf.

POPPY

Krystyna had derived a 3D poppy from pattern #12 as well. (https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2022/04/show-stopper-or-show-topper.html)

PURPLE  DHALIA

There are more models in different colours in the pdf - Bright Pink and Sea Shell Dahlias.

RED  LILA  BUTTERFLY

PURPLE  STONE  BUTTERFLY

Both butterflies have one more version each with minor variations.

BUTTERFLY  BROOCH AND EARRINGS

GOLD  MOTH

BEETLE

SCARLET  DRAGONFLY

WISE  OLD  OWL

I especially like the horned ears ;-D

3D  MOUSE

Didn't expect this, did you?!

Ninetta and I cannot thank Krystyna enough for her wonderful and beyond-imagination work; way beyond what she volunteered for and what was expected!

Many many many thanks, Krystyna! You have gifted us a plethora of ideas and patterns. Frau Endrucks would definitely have been amused and amazed. 

tatting n chatting

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You know how it is with most Japanese/Korean blogs – such beautiful tatting, yet it is near impossible to leave a comment there. Thought I’d take a few minutes to ‘introduce’ a couple of such bloggers.

Recently I stumbled upon a prolific & skilled tatter ‘moondrops’ and scrolled back to all her tatting posts. Wow! She has made so many large projects and multiple times ( Mystery Doily, many magic square patterns), too! Do take some time out to visit her blog and be amazed. And it tickled me pink to see Ninetta's treble triangle motif and also my spiral snowflake worked just as beautifully.

Then there’s sekiraralace. You just Have to see this cute yarn ball bag she tatted. Such a simple concept really – 2 small doilies/coasters attached with an insertion! Check it out. I did manage to leave a comment there by clicking on the heart sign, but it shows up only as a number….I couldn’t retrieve my text, but hopefully she got to read it.

Now here’s a site that gets me laughing. John Atkinson is just so creative with his hands, brain, words, images! Nothing to do with tatting, but a good dose of intelligent (mostly) and irreverent (always) fun. From the time I came across it a few months back, I wait eagerly for his next cartoon.

And last but not least, Helen Walters created an entire wreath of poppy ice drops (my secret fb correspondent sent me a screenshot) inspired  by my tiny heart poppy which in turn is a 3D adaptation of Mónica Manceñido’s heart!!! Isn’t it fantastic how patterns move and inspire?! The poppy ice drop pattern is now shared on the Shuttlebirds site.

I read that this year jute poppies were sold/gifted in the UK to mark the contribution of Indian troops during WW1.

I absolutely love the poppy flower - the colours, the elegance, the independence! Should really make an effort to tat this one again and diagram the pattern properly. 

till next time, then .... have a great weekend with tons of tatting for the coming season!

Padded Tatting Solutions part 1

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Auxiliary thread techniques

used in 3d tatting.

Back-to-back posts elaborating how I added/used auxiliary thread while making the buds in Tiny Heart Poppy. In the absence of context, the explanation there might have been a tad confusing . Additionally, these 2 methods of adding auxiliary thread can have plenty of uses independent of the current 3D application.

It all arose because I needed the buds to be bigger than the flower center. However, increasing the stitchcount of the 2 concentric rings would only make them floppy ! I could think of only a couple of options – 1. padded Josephine Rings or 2. padded tatting . Since I’d already ‘learned’ the 1^st, I decided to try my hand at the 2^nd.

But how to add an auxiliary thread to the core, now that my 2 shuttles were already loaded CTM ?!

The following is how I tackled that dilemma, along with a step-by-step pictorial of how the buds were made.

Starting with Auxiliary Thread in CTM

NOTE : This method can be used to add auxiliary thread Anywhere & Anytime, not merely at the start.

1. Two Shuttles wound CTM

 

2. Auxiliary thread (black tips) being added to Shuttle 1 

 

3. Shuttle #2 with single thread, but Shuttle #1 with two threads

 

4. Inner/first Josephine Ring started with Shuttle #1. 15 hitches.

 

5. Josephine Ring (15) completed

 

6. Perpendicular Concentric/Onion JR started with Shuttle #1. 

Here Jane Eborall's alternative technique is used.

 

7. JR2 has 22 hitches. One Bud completed.

 

 8. Snip off Auxiliary thread, leaving a tail for encapsulation.

 

9. Encapsulate both tails of Auxiliary thread with Josephine Chain. 

Continue the JC stem for about 5-6 cms. (It is much shorter here)

TIP : When making Josephine Chains (Spiral Chains), I have found the using 2 shuttles works much better than a shuttle & ball. JCs cause a lot of twisting even to the ball (working) thread; hence if the working thread is on a 2nd shuttle, it becomes so much easier to suspend & untwist as frequently as one wants.

Part 2 of this tutorial shows one way of how one can end with an auxiliary thread.

Tatting Pattern: Tiny Heart Poppy part 2

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Tiny Heart Poppy

 A  3D  Tatted  Flower (contd.)

Tiny Heart Poppy - spot the difference ;-)))

The 2^nd and final part of the Tiny Heart Poppy pattern. The first part of Flower (petals) pattern is here. 

We’ve completed the 3 red petals. Now to add ‘embellishments’ to bring it to life ;-) : the flower centre made of yellow & black, a couple of free-standing buds, a leaf sprig, & then the main stem. 

Poppy Flower Centre :

Materials

AMC Size 20 , Yellow 0289 , Black

2 shuttles OR 1 shuttle with yellow tied to black ball

Techniques & abbreviations :

JR – Josephine Ring , with Perpendicular arrangement of Rings

Floral Picot   (click for tut)

Ch – chain

fhs –  1^st half stitch of ds

shs – 2^nd half stitch of ds
Wind yellow thread in one shuttle & black in 2^nd shuttle/ball & tie together. No need to hide the tail ends as these will be required to provide stiffness to encapsulated stem later.

Yellow Pistil/Carpel :

With shuttle 1 (yellow) :

JR 1 : 10 hitches / half stitches

Perpendicular Arrangement of Rings : (click for detailed tutorial)

Before starting JR2, try to turn JR1 at a 90° angle on Y axis. So instead of making a concentric, onion-ring type of overlap, we will get an overlap Across the 1^st JR, vertically, at right angles. Hopefully the image & diagrammatic representation below, will give a clearer idea.

JR 2 : 15 hitches …

Before closing, adjust this ring over the 1^st JR so as to snug neatly over & around the latter. If required, add or subtract the half stitches. Since there is no picot in JR1 to which JR2 can be joined, one needs JR2 to fit snugly over, yet without distorting, JR1, Nor falling over itself !

I kept positioning the open ring stitches over JR1 till I felt the length was just right, then close JR2, keeping it positioned perpendicular to JR1.

Yellow Pistil in center

 

 

Black Stamens :

Place/position the yellow centre over the space between the 3 petals. (Pass the tail ends through this open centre, so that they are now Under the flower). 

Working from top, join to picot at the base of any petal, keeping the yellow JRs centred.
Now start a chain made up of medium length Floral Picots (I have used the term described by Ring of Tatters)

Ch : ** ( 2FHS , p , 2 SHS , p ) …. Repeat ** for desired length, joining to the picots at the base of each petal at regular intervals. The chain should be long enough to go all around the yellow core. Lock join into place.

I made the length slightly longer so that it overlapped a bit, before ending. If you look very carefully, this overlap of picots can be seen towards the right side in image. Overlap ensures that the black picots will never show any gap.

Pass all the tails through the center, to the back of the flower, to be encapsulated later.

The Poppy Flower is now complete ! 

If one is looking for only a flower, one can stop here (hiding all tails). This can be sewn on to decorate or adorn headbands, bracelets, rakhi, gifts, etc. etc. Add a green calyx, if desired.

I decided to add some stem, leaves, & buds to the flower to make it a stand-alone entity such as a nosegay (spritz your favourite perfume ;-) ), a lapel flower, brooch, or a boutonniere for men. Add a couple more flowers & paraphernalia to make a cute spray !

Buds, Stems, Leaf Sprig

AMC Dark Green : 0844

2 shuttles, wound CTM

Buds :

JR 1 – Josephine Ring with auxiliary thread

JR 2 – Josephine Ring using Jane Eborall’s alternative technique

Perpendicular Rings arrangement

JC – Josephine Chain or Spiral chain

Encapsulation with JC / spiral tatting

UPDATE : For detailed tutorials click : Starting with Auxiliary Thread & Ending with Auxiliary Thread

2 Shuttles wound CTM.

Here is something I hadn’t tried before, hence a detailed log :

1. Wind an extra (auxiliary) piece of green thread along with the thread in shuttle, just enough for the 2 JRs.
2. Make JR1 (15 half stitches) using this double thread, for added thickness.
3. JR2 (20-22 half stitches) made with Jane Eborall’s method of Josephine Rings   
4. JR2 is made perpendicular to JR1. Before closing the ring, make sure it sits over the 1^st ring just right, without falling over.
5. Cut the extra length of auxiliary thread & hide it in the JC that follows, or keep it for encapsulation.
6. JC for about 5½ cms (or as desired).
7. Note : Since one is encapsulating, the half stitch of JC/spiral chain will remain unflipped.
8. End JC with a small picot with which to join to main stem later. Do not cut. (This step can be skipped. After leaving a short tail, cut threads. Repeat from Step 1 for 2nd bud).
9. JC going back up for 2^nd bud. This stem is shorter ~ 4 cms long.
10. Unwind shuttle & double up the remaining thread (or wind another auxiliary thread).
11. Use this doubled thread to make the 2 perpendicular JRs as before.
12. Tie, cut & hide the tail or sew it in.

Note : The 2 buds have been made in one pass. But looking back, it is better to make them separately, each one starting from the bud end & moving down to the stem. Threads can be encapsulated later.

TIP : JCs can be done with 1 shuttle & ball. But the ball (working) thread tends to twist a great deal & untwisting the ball after every few stitches, becomes cumbersome. Hence it is advisable to use 2 shuttles. I speak from experience ;-((

 

Leaf Sprig :

Twisted Picots (unjoined)

JC – Josephine Chain / Spiral tatting

3½ cm stem which is again a JC

Twisted picots at regular intervals (2½ - 3 cms long each)

Start with a twisted picot on a JC. The picots are closer initially, then the spacing increases slightly. Do as many as you want. When desired length is reached, stop & cut threads, leaving a tail of 2-3 inches.

TIP : JC stem spirals around, so the twisted picots spiral around too, instead of sitting flat on a single plain.

Another reason I used a JC chain, is to replicate in an abstract fashion, the fuzziness of a real poppy stem.

UPDATE : Refer to Tutorial for Twisted Picots (Floating) 

Main Stem :
Encapsulation using JC ( spiral chain)

< 5 cm long.

Preferably 2 shuttles, CTM

Hook the green thread to any one picot at base of petal. Then make JC, encapsulating all the floral thread tails.

Note : Since one is encapsulating, the half stitch of JC/spiral chain will remain unflipped.

After about 2 cms from base of flower, start attaching the buds’ stem & the leaf sprig. Make sure to encapsulate these from a little higher than the point at which the tails start; this will ensure free-standing stems that hold the buds & leaves.

Also start cutting off tails, at different stages but After at least 1 inch of encapsulated main stem, for a tapering kind of stem. If an evenly thick stem is desired, then encapsulate all tails right till the end.

Continue the stem further to desired length. Tie & cut.

When encapsulated with all the tails, the stems remain stiff enough & no extra stiffening is required. It is also essential that a short part of the buds & leaf sprig stems be encapsulated within the main stem from the point where they are joined, so that they stay erect & in place without any support.

NOTE : Each element holds it's shape. However,  in case thread specifications demand, one can add an extra/auxiliary thread for encapsulation of stems.

Final Dimensions : ( ” – cms ; ’ – inches )

Flower : ~ 4”/ 1½’ across

Yellow centre : ~ ½” x ½”

Black centre : picots are ~ ½ cm long each, with slight variation if desired.

Buds & Stem : 1^st pair : 1”x 1”, on a 4”/ 1½’  long stem.

2^nd pair : >1”x 1”, on a 5½”/ 2’ long stem.

Leaf Sprig : Twisted picots vary between 2½”-3”/ ~1’-1’+ in length, along a 3½”/ 1½’  long stem. The total length from tip to base, comes to about 6”/ 2½’ .

Main Stem : <5”/ <2½’ long, from base of flower to end.

Total length of entire Spray : 9”/ 3½’

Some Variations :

For a fuller, more ROSE-like look, add another layer of 3 petals below the 1st three, before starting with the stem, etc. (in pic below)

One can add a calyx at base of flower. A set of long twisted picots, joined to the free picots at base of flower, might look good.  It will also make the flower “complete” in case one does not want to follow up with a stem, etc. Once the sepals are in place, start with encapsulation for stem.

A potential ROSE ?!  2 layers of petals.

In Remembrance of all those from whom I have learned,  & am learning, 

all who have graciously shared their knowledge, patience, & skills .... 

Sept 5th, Teachers' Day (India). 

UPDATE : See Coretta's tweaked pattern here

and Helen Walters' Poppy Ice Drop adaptation here.

Related Posts : padded tatting solutions 1

padded tatting solutions 2
twisted picot (floating)

how to make the flower center and buds

Tatting Pattern : Tiny Heart Poppy - part 1

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Tiny Heart Poppy
A  3D  Tatted Flower

muskaan  (Aug 15, 2014)

I am seriously into writing & uploading the pattern in pdf format, exploring combinations & avenues that work for me without too much hassle or learning, .... but am finding that it is taking me more time than initially anticipated. Hence, I’ve decided to share the pattern in stages, so that if anybody is interested, they can start tatting along. It will also give me time to tweak the final pattern with any feedback & suggestions provided, as well as work without any pressure.

Another reason is that it will allow me to explain certain elements in more detail.

While notations & diagrams are provided, I am also writing it in longer script …

The flower can be made Very Quickly, even though the written format seems long :-)

Peace & Tolerance Tiny Heart by Mónica Manceñido is the base for the flower petal. Hence I have named it Tiny Heart Poppy, in appreciation of her versatile original pattern.

For more examples of the versatility, check out my previous 'Designing 101 post' ;-)

In order to write out the pattern, I have followed Jane Eborall's notation to a large extent.

I apologize for the unprofessional diagram ... hoping to do a much better job learning & drawing on a new program ...

Poppy Flower

Materials

Anchor Mercer Crochet Cotton Size 20

For petals : Red 046

For centre : Yellow 0289 , Black

2 shuttles

Main techniques used :

For petals : Split Ring (optional) ; Roll Tatting ; Lock Join ; Slope & Roll Join

For centre : Josephine Rings arranged perpendicularly ; Floral Picot Chain ( in part 2 of pattern to be uploaded later )

Petals : Round 1

Techniques & abbreviations :
fhs - 1st half stitch of ds
shs - 2nd half stitch of ds

CTM – continuous thread method

R – ring

Ch – chain

–  (dash) – very small picot (as small as possible, for joining purposes only)

. (dot) – close ring

RW – Reverse Work

DNRW – Do Not Reverse Work

FS/BS – Front side/Back side tatting (optional)

SR – split ring (can be optional)

SS – switch shuttle

rs – reverse stitch / lark’s head knot / reverse double knot / 2^nd half of SR stitch

+ (plus) – join (where to join is indicated within brackets)

/ (slash) – after the slash mark, rs or 2^nd half of SR

• Flower is composed of 3 petals, made in one pass, 2 rounds, tatted in clockwise direction.
• A yellow & black centre is added later. (pattern for this in Part 2)
• IMP : All picots in the petals are very very small picots, mainly for joining purposes.
• TIP : For beginners : If one in uncomfortable with Split Rings, the 3 petals can be tatted separately/individually & joined as one tats along. But remember to add picots & avoid twist when 3^rd petal is joined to 1^st ! Click for Tiny Heart Pattern
• *In some rings, in order to keep the stitch count the same, I have made a picot Within a ds eg. ( 2ds, 1 fhs, vsp, 1 shs, 2ds ) .This is notated as ( 2½ - 2½ ) ; thus total ds count for this segment would be 5 . But one could try it with ( 2-3 ) or (3-2) as long as the same count is followed throughout.
• Option : FS/BS tatting, for some chains, is indicated by italics & red text colour.
• No tails need to be hidden as they will be encapsulated later.

2 shuttles, CTM, with red colour thread

Refer to Diagram below ...

Petal 1 –

R A : 4 - 2½* - 2½ - 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R B : 4 + (to A) 12 . DNRW  SS

Ch : 5  DNRW  SS

R C : 12 – 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R D : 4 + (to C) 2½ - 2½ - 4 . DNRW

SR E : 4 + (to D) 2/ join to base of Ring A with Sh2 (to form clover), 4 + (to A) 2 – 3 – 3 . DNRW

1^st petal (tiny heart) made.

Petal 2 –

SR F : 2 – 4 / 3 – 3 – 2 – 4 . DNRW

R G : 4 + (to F) 2½ + (to D) 2½ - 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R H : 4 + (to G) 12 . DNRW  SS

Ch : 5  DNRW  SS

R I : 12 – 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

SR J : 4 + (to I) 2½ / join to base of Ring F, 4 + (to F) 2½ . DNRW

2^nd petal (tiny heart) made.

Petal 3 –

SR K : 2½ - 4 / 2½ - 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R L : 4 + (to K) 12 . DNRW  SS

Ch : 5  DNRW  SS

R M : 12 – 4 . RW

Ch : 3 RW

R N : 4 + (to M) 2½ + (to A of 1^st petal) 2½ - 4 . DNRW

SR O : 4 + (to N) 2 + (to E of 1^st petal) 3 – 3 + (to F of 2^nd petal) / join to base of Ring K, 4 + (to K) 2 .

3^rd petal complete.

One poppy flower with 3 petals made. But do not cut thread yet.

TIP : One can forego All Reverse Work & tat purely from the front side by using Reverse Stitch ( also known as Lark’s Head Knot, Direct Tatting, Wrapped/Unflipped stitch or Reverse Double Knot as in Directional Tatting). This is applicable wherever FS/BS tatting is indicated in red. So, instead of FS/BS, do the rs & don’t see the reverse of the work !

Petals : Round 2

Techniques & abbreviations :

Lj – Lock Join

RT – Roll Tatting

S&R J – Slope & Roll Join

Bring the threads up to the picot join between rings J & K & make a Lock Join (as indicated in diagram). You can either bring up the bare threads (since it is a very short distance), or a chain of 2-3 ds can be made to ‘climb out’, and then Lj to outer picot join.

From this point on, Roll tatting chains are made & joined at regular intervals, to create an outline encompassing each tiny heart petal.

• The roll count may vary by a couple of wraps, depending on tension, etc.
• Since there are no free picots on the outer margins of the petals/rings, some joins will have to be made through a ds cap. 

Here is the wrap count, ( +/- 1 wrap ) :

**RT 17 , S&Rjoin to center of ring L, 
RT 23 , S&Rjoin to ring M, 
RT 23, S&Rjoin to center of 5chain, 
RT 17, Lj to picot between rings N & A.

Repeat from ** twice, to encompass the 2 remaining petals.

Lj to starting point.

It is not necessary to cut the threads. Bring them to the centre, join to any central picot. Leave a tail of 6-7 inches, cut. These tails will serve during encapsulation for the stem.

TIP : Patty Dowden shared this wonderful tip in same thread. “If I am roll tatting a ring or a chain and need to join to a picot, I just start an up join and then I don't finish the second half. By simply working the first half of a join, the appearance of the roll tatting is preserved and the join is just fine.”

Moreover, there is no need to do a ds before & after a join. “I like to keep my roll tatting as roll tatting from start to finish.”

The visual outcome is Amazing !

TIP : Another way of doing the Slope & Roll Join :

Slope & Roll Join can be made in following manner, which I find easier & quicker as the motion of shuttle remains fluid, all in same direction. End result is the same. We have discussed this in a Craftree thread here

It can be made when one is working with 2 shuttles or a shuttle & ball :
To make this join :
1. Bring Sh1 thread up through picot/space to make a loop (as in normal picot joins) ;

2. Pass Sh2 through this loop;

3. TUG at Sh1 thread to PULL DOWN Sh2 thread ;

4. And simultaneously snug the wrap/join. It should become smooth & allow the previous stitches to move freely on the core thread ie. Sh1 thread. (it does not lock the stitches)

Patty D has pointed out that this is similar to Teiko Fujito's "outer thread joining method" (post #3 in above thread)

UPDATE : In the next post, here -  part 2 of Tiny Heart Poppy pattern - is the rest of the pattern : how to make the centre of the flower & the buds & leaves ....

Motif #17 for 25 Motif Challenge

Related Posts : Peace & Tolerance Tiny Heart , Tiny Heart Poppy pattern part 2 , 

Perpendicular Concentric Rings for flower centre, How to make the bud part 1  & part 2