vintage false CTM

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There are so many methods and even more combinations to add new thread to a work in progress lace. We came across Eleonore Endrucks' advice to fix mistakes in her 1920 book, 'Die Schiffchen-Spitzen'. Here is the translation - 

We now call it False CTM (false continuous thread method) and I have shared several scenarios and applications over time. Here, we limit ourselves to Endrucks' method, a variation of the same, and a knotless method.

All this has been presented as pictorials in this PDF - 

False CTM - Endrucks' Advice & Pictorials -https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_Jm7puHcMemY3lhwP2cP8G3EmcgamlVj/view

Since everything is already presented in the PDF, I will be brief here, with only a few selected pics. Please click on the link above to download the document.

1. False CTM - Endrucks' Method

Notice 1. the old tails tied together and the new ones tied together ; 2. the knots are far apart, with the new knot wound on the ball or 2nd shuttle, far from the point of attachment to the work in progress.. The blue thread between these two points creates the false continuous thread.

However, since the two tails (in each pair) are tatted over in the same element, it creates bulk. This can be countered to some extent by tatting very tightly.

TIP: Use a slip knot to tie the new threads (blue) so that it can be opened and the knot repositioned as desired.

2. False CTM - Variation of Endrucks' Method

In order to avoid bulk, here the old shuttle tail is tied with new shuttle tail and old ball/2nd shuttle tail to the new ball/2nd shuttle end. Preferably, maintain a distance between the two knots so that we have a continuous thread space to work with.

Look closely, all four tails are hidden (tatting over tails) in four different elements. The extra ends are trimmed later.

3. False CTM - Knotless Variation of Endrucks' Method

Knotting the tails can be completely avoided. Above the new ball or 2nd shuttle thread is being folded around the old tail and will be tatted over in the chain element. 

Similarly, the core thread can be added and worked over.

The other tail in each case can be sewn/whip stitched later, or pulled through stitches using a magic loop, etc.

The choice of the three methods would depend on the specific situation - how long are the old tails, etc.  The above is merely a small glimpse of the numerous ways in which we can apply false ctm. Some related posts/pictorials/PDFs -

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-1.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-2.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=false+ctm 

Tatting Over Tails (PDF updated from 2017) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kwszAseuEZqkMdXosfTHtXdw0diCwmKz/view

Starter Picot or Starting with a Chain (PDF) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vzSHMxas51Yn5iujdmror1obx27AuIhw/view

Hiding Ends and Adding Thread - vast compilation of options and tutorials - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html

Hope you find this helpful in some future situation. 

starting with a SR pictorials

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 We are well aware that split rings are not meant only to climb out/into the the next round. They form a design element in their own right and when 2 colours are used, there can be interesting 'splits' in the overall design. Then there are split ring braids that make beautiful bracelets and lanyards. Speaking of which, what if we wanted to start a split ring braid in 2 colours https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=sr+braid? 

I rarely if ever use a knot to start any lace (except occasionally for a tut). Same holds true for starting with a split ring. I use this simple knotless method (which also holds good for true rings, mock rings, etc.) - cross the tails from each shuttle in the manner depicted, and voila, we're ready to go!

These pics were taken in 2018 and I dug them out when someone asked a question. The pdf has a bit more notations.

How to Start a Split Ring Knotless - click for pictorial pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lKYLoLFEhMycP4YFsemIEyk4TUjn69Q-/view

At the same time (2018) I had also taken pics for a related situation - what if the split ring braid had to be joined back in a circle? For instance in my Thorny Wreath Ornament - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2015/12/thorny-wreath-pattern.html where the foundation round is a series of 2-coloured split rings joined back to the start.

Obviously we need to have a picot in the very first SR. Initially I had made the picot on side 1 of the SR. However, it is not always easy to start any ring with a picot. Moreover that small picot has a tendency to close up when the core thread is pulled to close the ring. This is the reason I am not sharing pics I took at the time. Instead, I shot new pics where we start the split ring, knotless, with a picot on the 2nd side of the SR.

How to Start a Split Ring with a Picot, Knotless - click for pictorial pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OS_9VdZSoWVSsOtQYT8UVb4nV6exmf2p/view

Both are one-page pdfs with minimal text.

Both links will be included in this huge collection of tutorials for how to start and finish covering all situations - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html

Do you remember my whimsical experiment to Hide tail ends in the last split ring without sewing? - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2017/08/hiding-on-whim.html This, too, was in response to a query.

And I used this same technique to hide the ends in a floating chain, with no sewing - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/12/open-treasures.html 

Hope some of these help when the situation arises.

My next post will be on the 3rd of Dec when I reach 2 milestones simultaneously. So do stick around ....

what social distancing?

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The road to friend’s house is never long – Danish proverb

And our digital age has proved this despite social distancing norms and lock downs in countries. A friend can reach out any time and connect 1000s of kms away – a mere hop, skip, and virtual jump :-)

Ninetta Caruso’s Girotondo - Ring of Rosies edging will be taught in the Online Tatting Class on Monday (April 6^th) and she sent me an advance copy for feedback, etc. In order to confirm an idea, I tatted it as well. So here are my notes, at her request. It is a simplified option, eliminating a few steps.

NOTES on my working of the Girotondo Edging :
1.  Work moves from left to right tatting first the body then the head. However, overall, the edging progresses from right to left as seen in the flow of colours - green to orange. For fs/bs tatters, only the head ring is worked backside. This piece starts with the green motif.

2. Since I intended to use this as jewellery, I started, CTM (green), with a ring using Sh2. Switch Shuttle.

3. Work the chain (arm), SCMR (body) with floating rings (feet). RW and tat head. RW and continue with 2^nd arm. One motif in green complete.

Notice no Turn Work or Under-Over/Alligator join is required. And the shuttles/threads are in the right position to start next element.

TIP: Initially it is easier to follow the path on the single upturned diagram (page 2 of pdf) rather than the main diagram with 3 kids because the single motif shows how the lace looks in our hand while it is being made. We are basically tatting the kids upside down!

4. The left and right arm of each motif has a different core thread colour. The new colour is added before tatting the head ring.

5. Here’s how I worked in the new thread colour differently. I took pics only when reaching the white head, but the green and white tails ends were done similarly.

(fig-1) Snip green tail. Add orange thread. I crossed the tails as usual. This crossover creates a barrier to any accidental pulling out of tails and one can give a good tug to hide any colour blip.

(fig-2) Green tail gets hidden in the white head ring, and

(fig-3) the orange tail in the white arm chain.

Securing tails in different elements means barely any bulk.

(fig-4) As seen from the front.

(fig-5) 3 motifs completed – as seen from back, and 
{The multiple orange tails is coz I ran out of thread and added new}.
I always snip off the final bit of tails at the very end.

(fig-6) from the front.
NO COLOUR BLIPS, back or front, even without the alligator join.

6. I did a long picot join in the orange foot for symmetry and equidistance. This was an after-thought. The difference is visible when compared with the other white leg and I prefer the symmetry. 

7. I made only 3 motifs, ending with a SSSR to hide the final tail, as suggested in the pdf. Jump rings linked to a chain were inserted through these end rings for a pendant necklace. In finer thread, these could be earrings!

8. Worked in Anchor Pearl cotton size 8, 3 repeats measure 5½ cms without end rings and 6½ cms including end rings. Each motif is 2½ cms tall.

9. Saffron, white and green are the colours of the Indian flag. Timely symbolism …

Tonight at 9 pm, for 9 minutes, we will be switching off all lights and lighting diyas or candles in solidarity with Nature & Mother Earth against our global enemy. Will you join us?

I enjoyed test tatting this fun edging, long on my to-tat list. Glad for this opportunity! I always learn something new from Ninetta’s patterns – she is such an ingenious and innovative designer. She made a new version in rainbow colours – gorgeous and lively!!!

The original pattern (8 years old!) can be found here and here. I will update with the new pdf link later, in which she has stepwise pictures and other details, including written instructions.
UPDATE : Ninetta has written a detailed post about her working, along with the pdf link. Check it out and start tatting :-) 

Don't forget to attend class. I can no longer attend, sadly.

Thank you for a Wonder-full pattern, Ninetta !

open treasures

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The treasure chest is open! Krystyna and Anita are sharing lovely patterns of their lovely Hidden Rose adaptations shown here!!!

Actually, there are a few other snowflakes where tweaks have been made. But I’d like to tat those up before sharing. It may take a while, but there’s always next season :-D

Getting right down to it ….

Krystyna Mura’s Earrings adaptation

Now this is a very clever use of thread which she has diagrammed as well. In her own words –

  

I wanted to make the whole rose bud in the shade of red. It is possible to get such a result with Lisbeth 20 "cranberry bush" (colour 181)

This particular thread colour is excellent for this goal

I wound the thread on two shuttles as it's shown below.
The ring - shuttle 1;
All chains [except lock chains, of course]: the core thread - shuttle 2.

Krystyna has captured the direction, sequence and count, etc. all in a single, easy-to-follow colour-coded diagram!

Since I don’t have any such variegation, my model is made in 2 parts. The yellow rose is made with 2 shuttles, continuous thread and stem/leaves in green ball and shuttle, continuous.

However, I captured the green thread at the base before starting the 1^st lock chain.

For the outer chains in rose, I went clockwise instead of counterclockwise.

I didn’t snip off the yellow tails. These are easy to encapsulate within the green Josephine chain stem to avoid sewing in ends. After carrying them for a distance, I snipped each off at different points.

Krystyna used the magic thread trick to hide tail ends. I struck upon a new (I think) idea to end on a chain. Use the dead end, floating or single shuttle splitchain (SSSCh) method! Yes, it can be used to end, not just start a curlicue!

Here’s how –

Hiding Ends in Floating chain

After bottom leaf, double the shuttle thread and continue the Josephine chain by finger tatting over the other green ball thread. We are encapsulating the other tail.

On reaching the end, pass 2^nd tail through the SSSCh loop, and snip off after about 1cms. Now pull the shuttle thread to close the loop, tugging the 2^nd tail inside the stitches as well. Snip. No sewing in ends for those, like I, who cannot do the MTT.

I might do a stepwise pictorial later if anybody asks. 

Related - http://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html 

Anita Barry’s Heart adaptation

To see a heart in a rose snowflake is something Anita does well!

The rose count is tweaked slightly, however the original count will also work, provided the heart chain is reduced in length proportionately.

 

count and sequence notated in image

Rose - 2 shuttles, ctm. Use shuttle closest to the next element as core thread.

A: ring: 7 - 7. RW

B,C,D: Lock ch: vsp, 9, lock join, 10, vsp 9 +(ring)

E,F: ch: 18 lj vsp 20. T & C.

Heart - 2 shuttles, ctm. Start with shuttle #2

Chains have thrown rings (TR). Switch shuttle before and after each TR.

A: ring: 5 +(base of rose) 5. Switch shuttle

B: ch : 16, (TR:5), 3 , (TR:8), 3, (TR 14), 3, (TR 8), 3, (TR 5), 3, lj. SS

C: SR : 6/6.

D: SR : 6/6. SS. LJ.

E: Repeat chain going down, with thrown rings... RW

F: SR 5/5.

G: ring: 6-6.

This last can be a single shuttle split ring (SSSR) to hide ends.

UPDATE : Hidden Rose Heart pattern pdf.

I had tremendous fun tatting these pretty quick projects. In fact I used scrap yellow threads for both. Hope you enjoy them as well.

I will see you next with the #23 snowflake ! All photographed ….

Many thanks to Anita & Krystyna :-)))

Related Posts

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/flowers-love-me.html - original

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/12/hidden-treasures.html - variations

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2020/03/hidden-directions.html - clockwise pdf

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2020/08/hidden-option.html - a 2-round working method

add new thread to bare thread pattern

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While using the SCMR to add new thread Within a ring, I wondered whether we could also use it in a bare thread or single shuttle pattern. Turns out we can, though it involves a bit of a twist in the tail.

Adding new thread to bare thread pattern 

with self-closing mock ring (SCMR)

I have already described one method of adding new thread, finishing off with a SSSR (link below). This new method is yet another option – very secure; no doubling of bare threads; easy to add new colours frequently; knotless. And it can be sew-free with MTT.

1. Let’s say I’m running low on thread after these 3 rings (each is 5-5-5-5). But I still have enough to make the stitches but not enough for the core thread.

2. Load another shuttle and add fold in the new thread (I used coloured thread for clarity), bringing the tail through as shown.

3. Then leave a loop of new core thread and start working stitches with old thread like a chain. This is the start of the SCMR. Tat over new tail for a few stitches.

(see Variation below)

TIP : In case the old thread is too short to wrap around pinky, tie a scrap/helper thread at the very tip with a weaver’s knot.

4. The ‘ring’ is complete.

5. Pass shuttle through the loop to close the SCMR.

6. Now pull the new TAIL up to close the ring. Notice the pink tail has become longer.

7. Both tails are visible – new thread and old thread.

8. Insert new tail through a tapestry needle and whip stitch back towards the base of the ring. This will ensure the stability and durability of the lace.

I guess one can use the Magic Thread Trick for sew-free hiding but I like to whip stitch the tails.

9.  Next sew in the old tail, moving up the ring on the right side.

10. Pull both tails to remove any slack. Then snip off the excess length in each. 

New thread added with bare thread between the rings!

Pull and tug but the tails/rings will not unravel.

Variation

A. A variation is to tie a knot with old thread encapsulated within it, leaving bare thread space before tightening the knot.

B. Leave a loop of the new core thread and start working the SCMR. Tat over the new tail, hiding it within the first few stitches.

Close the SCMR as usual buy assing shuttle through loop and pulling the core thread taut. With the new tail already hidden, we only need to whip stitch/hide the old tail on the right side of ring.

Heather (see link below) tats over both tails thus avoiding any sewing. I prefer hiding tails in different elements/stitches to avoid bulk.

I’m not sure how much this method will help because there are already so many to choose from. However, I did not find this SCMR method/variation and having already taken pictures, I decided to go ahead and share.

For quick reference, here are links to some of the other methods to add new thread to single shuttle/bare thread/rings-only patterns (random listing):

• Matthew Takeda’s luggage tag knot . It is the same as what Marilee Rockely shared as lark’s head knot. 
• Edda Gustella's Adding new thread to BT pattern.
• Carolivy shared her pictorial in this Craftree thread titled: Where to add new thread for this edging?
• Heather’s tatting over tails in a rings-only pattern. 
• My knotless method, ending last ring in a SSSR. This method can also be followed to add new thread – using the new tail to anchor the SSSR and then sewing in the new tail to the other side of the ring.
• For more resources, and updates check the annotated listing here. 

 happy tatting always J

Add new thread WITHIN a ring

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When we run out of thread while working on a lace, it is easy to add new thread to a ring or even a chain. What if the next element is a largish ring and we have just enough thread to make a part of it, but not the whole ring?

1. Snip it off anyways - We could let that thread go waste, snip and hide it and start the ring with new thread. But if the thread is vintage, HDT, or not easily available we like to make use of the last possible length.

2. Extender - Tie a scrap thread as extender and work the ring normally.

3. Mock Ring – Switch shuttle and work that last ring as a mock ring or SCMR.

4. Switch the Core Thread – In case of split ring patterns, simply switch shuttles.

What if we know that the remaining thread can make only part of the ring stitches and we will run out of thread midways?

What if we could add new thread anywhere along the ring with least wastage of good thread? How ? Simple.

If you haven’t already done it before, here’s how to

Add New Thread WITHIN a Ring
how-to pictorial

UPDATE - Now in pdf (published in IOLI Bulletin Spring 2020) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g5GJz1rdzdKqpfw51Cm8lGptsY5S73ca/view?usp=sharing

Shuttle 1 – variegated ; shuttle 2 – cream ; 
shuttle 1 refilled with new variegated thread to show difference.

All threads are about a size 3 or 5.

1. Pink is the tail end of thread – not enough to make a complete ring.

2. Switch shuttle and start the ring as a mock ring. In this case I am using a SCMR 

(self closing mock ring), leaving a loop at the beginning.

3. I may not have enough thread to complete the ring. I have just enough to hide the tail.

4. At this stage new thread is added to the core. Notice that the ring is still open.

I like to tat over tails and hide tails in separate elements. But any method can be used.

5. First half stitch made over new tail.

6. Second half stitch made while hiding tail.

7. New tail encapsulated within the first stitch. Continue hiding for a few more stitches, 

leaving off after a first half stitch (the middle path mantra)

8. Ring is worked. Pass shuttle through loop .... 

9. .... and snug tight. We can now switch back to the original shuttle.

10. Continue. Notice the old and new tails in the same ring.

11. I prefer to whip stitch the old tail under stitches.

12. Now snip off all extra tail ends and continue working the lace.

Voilà.  New thread added to a working ring !!! No more untatting, no more wastage of good thread.

It is the first time I used this method. But it had been in my head for a long time and I recently encountered a situation where I recalled it, put it to the test and it worked!! A mock ring is after all just a chain.

You can’t really tell where the new thread is added. My ring shows it because the thread is too thick and it isn’t easy putting down your tatting and taking a pic at every step. I’m still pretty backward using images when the world is moving to videos! This is my comfort zone, though ;-P

Anyways, hope you like this and use it, if you aren’t already using it.

Related Resources and Tutorials to cover all situations–

An annotated listing

My tutorials 

p.s. During the finishing stage of this post, another idea has crept into my head. It works in my head, but I need to let the shuttles decide if they want to follow or not. I’ll let you know ….

tatting solutions can be easy & fun !