Broadening
our Horizons !
I have been reworking this post countless times, & still not satisfied :-(. Fact is,
after all stepwise pics were taken & notated, and the post drafted, I
figured out an easier way of closing multi-Warp looms/tallies. So took more
pics & notated those, too. However, there seemed to be a lot of confusion
because I couldn’t sync the earlier & latter sets together. Posting as
separate sections would increase length and redundancy . This unhappiness made
me procrastinate for many days, till I decided to take a fresh set of photos of
the entire process in one go. So far so good. But then Another option to make
4-Warp frame loomed on my restless brain ! Had to take pics & notate those
as well. Ultimately, the number of pics was still too large, causing me to
compile them in 2 separate pdf files – for Warp 4 & Warp 5 Cluny tatting.
Please excuse my mistakes or omissions.
So here it is – my way of making the multiple-veined Cluny leaves , with an additional step …
“What seems to be the
problem, Scotty ?!”
Most tutorials on Cluny tatting, irrespective of the loom,
tell you to remove all the loops after the tally is complete, move the
loom shuttle & weaving shuttle aside, identify the right thread to pull, &
then start to close each loop in sequence.
This is not too
difficult in a Warp 3 loom where only 2 loops need to be closed. However, as
the Warps increase, the loops tend to overlap with each other when the loom is
being set up . The loop made first also needs to be closed first. But
later loops/thread get stacked over it, and need to be placed aside before
closing can start. Hence, at closing time, there can be a lot of confusion if
one removes all the loops and Then starts to close each. Shivers!
 |
| Battleground Closure ... just before actual battle ! |
.... and this is when I
have pinned down all the loops for taking a decent photo without harming the tally. Imagine
trying to keep them all in their place, closing one at a time, trying to
identify which thread to pull, all this while holding on to the tally in one hand !!! Violent jitters & shivers !
"What are we looking at, a 20th century Rome?"
-- Kirk (Bread and Circuses)
“All fixed now, Cap’n”
As they say, a step(!) in time …. Turns out, all it requires
is ‘One Small Step’ ‘Behind the Scenes’ where the Space Shuttle passes under
the horizontal bar/loop!
 |
| A Warp 5 loom from front |
 |
| This is the usual way loops would be stacked |
 |
| This is how the loops should be stacked ! |
Why ? The reason lies in the Sequence with which each loop
is closed. In earlier figure, one can easily see that the loop which needs to
be closed 1st is ‘blocked’ by the next loop which is stacked over it
! While closing this loop, the others will get in the way.
So, if one has to start closing, one will have to first pull
off loop EF to get to AB. But EF is ‘blocked’ by I ! So here’s the messy path :
remove I , then remove EF, only Then start to close AB, while the former flop
about. Shivers violently !
And it becomes quite loopy – loops flopping about, messy,
confusing, tendency to knot/twist.
"Just before they went into warp, I beamed the whole kit and kaboodle
into their engine room, where they'll be no tribble at all."
-- Scotty, explaining how he got rid of the tribbles (The Trouble With Tribbles)
One Small Step behind the
scenes !
Here is
the step , shown on a Warp 3 loom (translucent
sheet used as loom to show path)
This
extra step can be effectively applied to normal 2-veined (Warp 3) tallies as
seen in the pics above. In a finger loom, however, for Warp 3 it may be prudent
not to, since the AB loop across middle & ring finger acts as a kind of
support for the central Warp. However, as number of Warps increase, it is advisable to take this extra step.
“Lt. Uhura, co-ordinates of the
flight path, please”
As mentioned in my earlier posts, this card loom is designed
by
Judith Connors. I have only
increased the number of slits at the top & bottom to include more Warps.
Also, the same loom came in handy while making
the hanging cluny leaf & split cluny.
Please note,
the concept remains the same ;
any loom, Including Finger Loom, will
perform the same function .. I just happen to have used this first & am
really happy with it.
- So now, the adapted loom has
5 slits on the top edge & 4 slits at the bottom. One slit at the right
side to anchor the loom shuttle/ball thread (The shuttle can also be anchored
behind the last slit it exits as shown in Tip #2 here , or in any of the empty slits or on the slit in
the right side.
- The top edge has 1 extra slit
on left side where the 1st Warp starts. The bottom slits can be
synced to the top, or be closer together in a converging fashion at the
center of base edge. Simply cut the additional slits parallel to the
existing ones (if inserted in the
same original slits, there will be a great deal of overlapping &
messiness when closing).
- Loom thread moves vertically
in the front , & horizontally at the back.
- Vertical movement in front
forms the Warps & is indicated by capital letters.
- Horizontal movement at back
forms the loop & is indicated by small letters.
- Sequence of letters from A,
B, C, … & so on indicates the direction & sequence that the loom
Shuttle will follow. Thus SH2 goes in through the slit at A & comes
out at B ; goes down to C & up through
D, and so on for the number of Warps required.
One can work out the sequence for ANY
kind of tally, once the concept becomes clear &/or some practice is under
one’s belt. Just try to figure out the sequence of loop closure (eg. when I
pull this, that loop closes & so on), & that will give you an idea of
where the threads will emerge after tally is closed – will it become a regular
tally (both threads emerge at top), a hanging tally (both thread emerge at base),
a split cluny (one thread emerging at either end), or a 3- or 4-veined tally.
- The Warps should remain
taut/tensioned. This serves 2 purposes : 1. to keep the weaving even &
consistent ; 2. to pull up the top edge of the card, so that there is
plenty of space to pass shuttle to & fro for weaving. (this lift can be inferred from the
shadows thrown by the Warp threads in many pics)
TIP : If any Warp comes a bit loose,
it can be tightened easily by tugging at the thread segment that follows
immediately after it ….on till the anchoring point.
This is only One way of making the Warps. A Craftree member
& I simultaneously figured out how to make a 4-Warp tally, but by looping
the Warps differently ! I haven’t tried the other, but what I like about my
method is that the initial looping remains Constant irrespective of how many
Warps one wants. Hence much easier to remember – both while making the frame,
while weaving, as well as while closing the tally.
For purposes of brevity, I have set up the stepwise
pictorial (& instructions) for each in separate pdf files . The pictorial shows steps required
for setting up the loom (including the extra small step, along with simultaneous
views of the back), & then the sequence to close the tally after weaving.
“Mr Sulu, Warp four straight
ahead, please”
WARP FOUR (gives a 3-veined
tally)
Version 1
Version 2
Click to download Cluny Tatting on a Warp Four Loom (both versions). The tutorial includes step-by-step pictures, as well as instructions on Setting up the Warp 4 loom, Weaving & equally important , the Ckosing pathway !
My very 1st Warp 4 tally was a Split Cluny (which I didn't even of then!) , with the loom & weaving threads emerging at opposite ends. I didn't jot down that sequence, but have recently made a Hanging Warp 4/3-veined Cluny leaf. Sharing the WIP photo (it is not include in the pdf).
TIP : If one is using a finger loom
for multiple Warp tallies, I would suggest using 2 different coloured paper
clips one on each of the 2 base loops. This will help in identifying which loop
belongs to which Warps, when closing time arrives.
‘Mr Sulu, Warp 5 full speed
ahead’
WARP FIVE (gives a
4-veined tally)
I used a translucent
plastic sheet for this loom, so that the shuttle movement behind the scenes can
be captured easily. However, not recommended for actual Cluny tatting, since
the slits are pretty sharp & do not allow easy adjustment of Warp tension,
etc.
TIP : One can start weaving a tally
from Any Warp, not necessarily the extreme left one. Merely keep the under-over
movement in mind. The above photo shows the tally at Warp 3 & SH1 under Warp 4, over
Warp 5. With SH1 now at extreme right,
start normal weaving)
Why Increase the Warps ?
Out of curiosity & a challenge initially
! It is one way of broadening/widening
the tally, but keeping the inter-vein distance short, even & constant. The
additional veins also impart their own beauty & fineness.
Multiple
Warps become essential for creating various shapes & effects of tallies, too (something I will discuss/show in my last
post, along with many little tips & tricks)
HIDING TAIL ENDS
In case one needs to hide thread tails within a tally, it
can be done as shown in the collage. The shift from one Warp to the other after
a few weaves ensures that the tail gets locked in. I learnt this when in
my earlier attempt here, if I
pulled at the ‘hidden’ tail, it could still slide ! However, by shifting, the tail
becomes secure. After snipping closely, it is not visible at all.
(While testing, I kept
tugging, thus leaving a telltale crossover in the front. My mistake.)
Heartiest thanks to All those wonderful
tatters who shared their
bounty of knowledge & skills with us.
Where would
we be without them – no lift off possible !!!
