Showing posts with label LHPJ. Show all posts
Showing posts with label LHPJ. Show all posts

Wednesday, 5 March 2025

update with video

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There are frequent requests for videos instead of a pictorial or a schematic to showcase a technique or even a pattern. A sign of changing times which is fine by me except that videography is not my preferred method. I have watched several of Karen's videos over the years and learned from them. Yet I prefer the stepwise layout whether in a blog or printed so that I can try at my own pace; study each step and position of thread minutely when required; and I don't need to rewind back and forth. Refreshing my memory is also easier with pictorials and diagrams coz I can easily skip steps and focus on what I need. Personal preferences, no judgment. 

Anyways, in one of the FB tatting groups, a tatter bought Rebecca Jones'  1985 book, 'The Complete Book of Tatting' after I shared my direct method tatting post here -https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/02/direct-method-tatting.html . She could figure out the first step of how to start a ring or chain with a lark's head knot. However, she had trouble with how to continue with the half-stitches. I decided to make a quick video for her eyes only. But I think it isn't too bad and would perhaps be of help to others, too. 

So here is the direct link to the video - Rebecca Jones' Direct Method Tatting: 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bsXzAGaSacKqw06CC3Uq24ImB2t6-sUA/view

I have tatted 3 double stitches in a ring in this demo. Hope it helps. Please excuse my clumsiness and background. Like I said, videography is not my go-to format, and I shot this in one go ;-D

Comparison - 
What I later realised is that this in one of two ways to make a lark's head picot join (LHPJ) or lark's head join (LHJ)! Watch Karen Cabrera's Lesson #101 - Lark's Head Join.

And now I remembered that Ninetta Caruso uses the 1st half-stitch movement while tatting the wide picot! Her video - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XsqlFZHcVpopvRFBhTgR6_oQWqf98Bw7/view  and my pdf and post here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2024/02/going-wide.html .

Love to find connections! Happy tatting! 

Saturday, 1 February 2025

direct method tatting

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I had a very interesting experience earlier this week. In her book 'The Complete Book of Tatting' (1985), Rebecca Jones highlights six methods of tatting, one of which is what she calls the Direct Method Tatting. This should not be confused with Direct Tatting which entails using reverse stitches to tat chains, etc.

The stitch really doesn't care how it is made, as Patty Dowden famously said!

Since I hadn't intended to do a pictorial, I merely took a few pics for my own reference. Hopefully these will be enough to give you an idea and a way for me to recall easily. 

DIRECT  METHOD  TATTING

Rebecca Jones (1985)

1. We start by looping the ring thread around the shuttle as seen in the pic - a luggage tag loop, such that when the shuttle is passed through the loops, and tensioned, it forms a lark's head knot (LHK). 
Notice the starting tail of the shuttle thread. 
This step can be a tad tricky, so try to focus on the entry and exit points of the thread. Fortunately it is only needed once for the very first stitch.

2. After the shuttle is pulled through and the stitch snugged, this is how it looks. It appears upside down when compared to a normal shuttle-tatted ring. However, as we move along they right themselves.


3. After the starting or foundation LHK, tatting continues by making each half-stitch. 
For 1st half-stitch, loop the thread counterclockwise and pass shuttle through. Snug.
TIP: Make kind of a one and a half turn before passing shuttle through otherwise the stitch is not formed.

4. Making the 2nd half-stitch ... turn the ring loop clockwise, pass shuttle through and snug.

5. Notice the second direct method stitch is made. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for required number of stitches. 
Picots can be made by leaving some space as we do normally.
6. When the ring is closed, the stitches face outwards and the ring looks exactly like a shuttle-tatted ring.
The same steps can be applied to chains as well using loops made with the ball or left-hand thread.

*****
UPDATE (4th March 2025): A lady bought the book after reading this post and also tried to work the method. However, she had trouble with how to continue with the half-stitches. Here is my quick video to help her out. Hope it is clear enough to be of use in case you wish to try it too. 
And here is the direct link to the video: 
I have tatted 3 double stitches in a ring in this demo. Hope it helps. Please excuse my clumsiness and background ... videography is not my go-to format ;-D

What I later realised is that this in one of two ways to make a lark's head picot join (LHPJ) or lark
*****
WHY?
You may justifiably ask why this method. I think it is a nice way to transition from needle tatting to shuttle tatting. Even if a tatter cannot manage the flip/transfer, s/he can use a shuttle just as easily! As a knitter, I have used my thumb to make the loops to cast on stitches and I used the same movements for needle tatting. Hence I found this pretty easy-going.
Besides, Rebecca also points out that this method might be easier on arthritic hands and a tatter can continue to enjoy making lace. 

I haven't had time to explore this further. Hopefully some of you will be interested and share your observations and experiments ... 

Monday, 4 April 2016

Shuttle 2 to the Rescue !

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JOINS  IN  SHUTTLE  TATTING
IN SEARCH OF COMMON PRINCIPLES
PART – II

CATEGORY I. ABOVE  (contd.)

A Brief  Recap :
When a link needs to be made to a previous element Above the line of present working, the ball/SH2 thread is closer to the joining picot. Hence SH2 thread comes into play in the Picot joins (up, down, in a circle, swirl join)  the Lark’s Head Picot Join as discussed in Part I. The remaining joins in this same category are discussed below. 

Abbreviations used here :
SH – shuttle
SR – split ring
DS – double stitch
LHPJ – lark’s head picot join
RS – reverse stitch (unflipped stitches)
hs – half stitch
uSHS – unflipped 2nd half stitch
LJ – lock join

About Pics :
In the tatted samples worked in size 20 thread, yellow represents core/SH1 thread ; aqua blue represents ball/SH2/auxiliary thread ; black represents a previous tatted element with a picot to which current working needs to be linked.

A Note of Caution on Colour Blips/Spots:
I have used a 3rd colour (black) to represent a previous element. However, in actual tatting, when working with 2 colours, this previous element may be the colour of either SH1 or SH2 thread. When joining picot is the same colour as the stitch colour in present working, colour blips may not be visible.
For example, in LHPJ, if black, which has the joining picot, was substituted with aqua blue (SH2), no colour blip will show on back side. But if black is substituted with yellow (SH1), a colour blip will be visible on back side.

Rule : In two-colour tatting, if joining picot from previous element and current stitch are of same colour, colour blips/spots are usually not seen on the front side.

I.3 Joining the Second Half of a Split Ring  :
While linking the 2nd half of a split ring (SR), the picot may seem to be below the ring being made, but notice the caps on the two elements : they face each other. Hence it belongs to the ‘Above’ category of joins. 
Pic 6.  Explaining the visuals for Part II
A split ring has two halves : the first half (yellow in pics) is worked like a normal ring with flipped stitches or DS and any links on this side will include the Picot Joins and LHPJ (Refer I.1, I.2). The second half of a SR is made with reverse or unflipped stitches using SH2 and the SH1/core thread shuttle is not on hand. Thus the linkage calls for slight modification of movements, to ensure the core thread continues to slide freely after the join is made.
There are 3 main ways to accomplish this linkage :

I.3.a  Split Ring Join
aka Transitional join10, Split Ring Core join11, Join to second side of SR12, Joining second half of SR13.
One comes across different names, as listed above, but the basic movement and formation remains the same. They have, therefore, been clubbed together under ‘Split Ring Join’ in order to distinguish this formation from 1.3.b & c.

  • A loop of SH1/core thread is pulled Up or Down through picot, and SH2 is passed through it. The core thread is then tensioned so that it ‘pops’ back from the picot with the SH2 thread wrapped around it.
  • It allows core thread to slide freely.
  • This join can be counted as a hs.
  • An up loop creates a colour blip on the front side; a down loop creates a colour blip on back side. Hence when working with 2 colours, use a Down loop to keep colour blips at back of work14.    
  • Any element (ring or chain) worked with RS can be linked with this join.
  • It follows the basic principle of a picot join.
Pic 7. Split Ring Join made with
Up & Down loops

(click on image to enlarge)

Rule : It is advisable to keep the loop that is pulled through joining picot untwisted while passing shuttle through loop for making any join.

I.3.b Lark’s Head Picot Join with Shuttle 2 (S2LHPJ) 15
This is a slightly elaborate multi-step procedure to wrap and flip a complete DS within the joining picot, thus creating an “invisible join”. While the 1st half of a SR can be joined using a LHPJ, the 2nd half needs to be wrapped a bit differently.   
  • 1uSHS is made outside the picot, before commencing the linkage formation within picot.
  • A loop from SH2 is pulled up through picot and SH2 passed through loop. Several ensuing movements enable the formation of a DS which is snugged into position. 
  • The join is counted as 1 complete stitch and lies within the picot.
  • Useful for smooth visual effect, with a continuous line of stitches.
  • A colour blip will be seen at the back only if joining picot is of different colour.
  • Any element (ring or chain) worked with RS can be linked with this join. 
Pic 8. Lark's Head Picot Join
made with Shuttle 2 (S2LHPJ)

I.3.c  Lock Join with Shuttle 2 thread
A third way to join SR is with a lock/shuttle join using SH2.
  • Pull a loop of SH2 through picot, pass SH2 through loop, adjust  tension carefully.
  • It locks the SH2 thread, while keeping SH1/core thread free.
  • This is a very easy and quick method. But care must be taken to position the thread carefully before final tensioning.
  • It does not create much of a colour blip.
  • It leaves a visible bump/bar along the line of stitches which may not be visually appealing.
[update] This join is also used in Inverted Tatting. Also called Ball Lock Join - http://www.georgiaseitz.com/2004/joins/mminvertedtat.jpg 
Pic 9. Lock Joins using Shuttle 2

The ball thread join 16
A decorative variation of LJ with SH2 which can be employed in all kinds of rings and chains.   
The movements of I.3.c are followed, but a space of thread is left on either side. (refer Pic 9)
The bare thread space of SH2 before and after the LJ imitate the picots in the element being worked. Thus the actual join is not placed in line with the previous stitches; it is placed at the tip of a mock picot. It enables the tatter to maintain, and continue with the decorative look of the element which is being linked.


This completes Category I. 
In Part III we will consider Category II where links are made Across elements.

Feedback, correction, or addition is welcome.
I will convert this entire series into a pdf file for easy reference, with requisite updates and modifications. 

Related Posts : Demystifying Joins  
_____________________________________________ 
Footnotes & Tutorials (Part II) :
14 Most tutorials show the Up loop being used to make the Split Ring join. Compare the up & down loop, as well as the SH2 movements in the collage picture.
15 Lily Morales 2003 
16 Martha Ess The instructions & pictures are shared in her Butterick Butterfly Bookmark pattern.



Monday, 28 March 2016

marching along

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And the snowflakes march on …
My March installment of 2 snowflakes per month for the Year Long Snowflake Tat-Along on Craftree
There’s nothing much to write about these snowflakes, except for my colour adventure in one & my split chain practice in the other.

Day Four Snowflake
Pushing my colour boundaries.


Threads : Anchor variegated embroidery cotton 1325. 2 strands
Anchor Mercer Crochet Cotton size 40 pink 052
Measurements : Rnd 1 - 1.5" ; Rnd 2 - under 3"
Techniques : 2 shuttles, directional tatting, floating/thrown rings, Reverse Join, Lark's head picot joins (LHPJ), Lock Join

My go-to colour with this variegation would've revolved around blues & purples , or white, black. But pink ? Never. Hence had to give it a go.  Coz these snowflakes are also experimental ...
Rnd 2 continued clockwise after a Reverse Join to switch shuttles.
Added very small anchoring picots to a couple of outer Floating rings to stabilize, then discontinued.

LHPJ to link outer chains.

TIP : Elaine Gan's Reverse Join enables one to lock join to a point below the working element while simultaneously enabling the switching of shuttles, which is what I needed in order to change the colours. 



Day Five Snowflake
Lene Bjorn

Chaining the split chain

Threads : Anchor Mercer Cotton size 40. Aqua Blue. 4054-0185
MeasurementsRnd 1 : 1½”  ; Rnd 2 : 2¼”  ; Rnd 3 : <3½”
Techniques : 2 shuttles, directional tatting, lock join, split chain (SCh).

Started rings in Round 1 with RODS (reverse order DS) so that the chains would be normal stitches.
Climbed out of the round with a split chain.
Deliberately done in single colour because I wanted to practice SCh. I want to become comfortable working the SCh.

TIP : During the Craftree Mystery TAL, I realized that after a chain is lock joined to a picot & returns back up for another picot join, the adjacent chains lie flatter together if 1 half stitch is reduced. Or in other words, if the LJ is considered as a half stitch in the stitch count.
  

Lene’s snowflakes are much larger than I used to think before, and I’m glad I chose size 40 to work them. But each pattern has something new to learn or try out, besides being so beautifully designed.
I'm still behind by 2 snowflakes but hope to catch up soon. And I've skipped Day 3 for the present. Want to work on it at leisure.


                                               happy tatting :-)


Related Posts Mystery Doily
Day 1 and Day 2 snowflakes