Showing posts with label Lock Join with shuttle 2. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lock Join with shuttle 2. Show all posts

Friday, 19 January 2018

Ice drop Enchained

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A few days back I bought assorted glass pebbles in order to make Jane McLellan’s Elana. Didn’t get to it (yet) but I had an idea when I made my charmed cross pendant. It has a large open space in center – ideal for an ice drop makeover!
Finally got around to experimenting with it this morning.

Ice Drop Enchained 
(a prototype experiment)
My idea was to have long picots all along the chain in front, then link to these picots when tatting the chain at the back. Well, it didn’t quite materialize due to my laziness – didn’t want to leave the warm winter sun to get a picot gauge ;-P

The picots turned out to be too short. 
This is the price I paid for being lazy and not leaving the warm winter sun to get a picot gauge!

But I improvised….by using a lock join with shuttle 2 (also called a ball thread join) leaving enough space to create a mock picot when encasing. Just like we do in Inverted Tatting.

I must say I’m not unhappy with the textured edge this creates.

This is worked in Anchor size 40 and is easily adaptable to any shape and size gem.

But all is not well.
  • The stitchcount needs tweaking. I had to substitute the original gem.
  • Worked in one pass, but I let the chains make a single point at the tips instead of having an all-round encasement/pocket.
  • The picots need to be longer still.
  • I ended up keeping the medallion at the back and working the other chain from front. Not that this should be a problem.
The fact remains that it Can be done ! A gem caged between chains within picots ! Even normal picots with regular picot joins. Some dexterity is required to hold the piece when joining, though. I held it sideways, ie., the side faced me, thus making it easy to pull loop through picot and make joins.

I had more ideas for this –
Tat the clovers on both sides – front and back – and join while tatting, inserting a large bead/gem within the space. This would create a nice pendant when chains were inserted at both ends later. For some other day….

Another idea based off Diane’s recent ice drop – tat a twin split ring braid, folding it along the middle to encapsulate the gem. Then add any more rounds as desired.
Also for another day. I do have nice glass pebbles now :-D

happy tatting !!!


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Monday, 9 January 2017

states of matter - 1

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is how I visualized and rationalize my choice of colours in the next two flakes - the 3 states of H2O.

Fourteenth Day of December Snowflake
Lene Björn

Right off, I am very unhappy with my working of the chains. In an effort to keep the silver thread from fraying, I was making the stitches a bit loose. But they are too loose and the chains are floppy and well, you can see for yourself. Lesson learned, is all I can console myself with.

3 strands each of the embroidery threads (Art 4625) are used, and the white is size 40 Anchor cotton
This 3-round pattern was split into 4 rounds due to placement of colours without having to resort to shoelace trick (SLT). After rounds 1 & 2, using 2 shuttles loaded with blue, I snipped away one blue thread, and added the silver thread for chains, with core remaining blue. Last round was worked with 2 shuttles in size 40 white.

Besides colours, I wanted to see if I could tat split rings (SR) in a way that their orientation still appeared to be like normal rings and the teardrop shape faced ‘correctly’. Except for the large ring, all others are split rings. If the silver chains had been tatted correctly, the SR experiment would’ve worked much better.

TIP : A teardrop split ring : the trick lies in closing. While closing, manipulate ring into desired shape, then hold in pinch, and close but don't snug too tight. Check to see that the shape holds and 'fiddle' till it is 'right'. Then, if required, tension further.
For the single split ring on chains, the teardrop point can be emphasized by using a lock join with SH2  (refer : 1.3.c Joins in shuttle tatting ) rather than the usual split ring join (refer 1.3.a) .

Msts : Rnd 1 - > 1"  ;  Rnd 2 - 1.25"  ;  Rnd 3 - 3" approx.  ;  Rnd 4  - 4.25"
Techniques – SR, LJ, LJ with SH2

Not much of a ta-da here, but Great News --- I have Completed this challenge !!! All 24 snowflakes finished, with a few additional ones (adapted versions or left halfway). Phew, just in time for Jane's 2017 TIAS . I didn't join last year & am thinking of doing both 2016 & 2017 simultaneously.

In keeping with my resolve to be less wordy, I will share the other state-of-matter snowflake in the next post ….
till then, 
happy tatting & stay warm ã

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Monday, 4 April 2016

Shuttle 2 to the Rescue !

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JOINS  IN  SHUTTLE  TATTING
IN SEARCH OF COMMON PRINCIPLES
PART – II

CATEGORY I. ABOVE  (contd.)

A Brief  Recap :
When a link needs to be made to a previous element Above the line of present working, the ball/SH2 thread is closer to the joining picot. Hence SH2 thread comes into play in the Picot joins (up, down, in a circle, swirl join)  the Lark’s Head Picot Join as discussed in Part I. The remaining joins in this same category are discussed below. 

Abbreviations used here :
SH – shuttle
SR – split ring
DS – double stitch
LHPJ – lark’s head picot join
RS – reverse stitch (unflipped stitches)
hs – half stitch
uSHS – unflipped 2nd half stitch
LJ – lock join

About Pics :
In the tatted samples worked in size 20 thread, yellow represents core/SH1 thread ; aqua blue represents ball/SH2/auxiliary thread ; black represents a previous tatted element with a picot to which current working needs to be linked.

A Note of Caution on Colour Blips/Spots:
I have used a 3rd colour (black) to represent a previous element. However, in actual tatting, when working with 2 colours, this previous element may be the colour of either SH1 or SH2 thread. When joining picot is the same colour as the stitch colour in present working, colour blips may not be visible.
For example, in LHPJ, if black, which has the joining picot, was substituted with aqua blue (SH2), no colour blip will show on back side. But if black is substituted with yellow (SH1), a colour blip will be visible on back side.

Rule : In two-colour tatting, if joining picot from previous element and current stitch are of same colour, colour blips/spots are usually not seen on the front side.

I.3 Joining the Second Half of a Split Ring  :
While linking the 2nd half of a split ring (SR), the picot may seem to be below the ring being made, but notice the caps on the two elements : they face each other. Hence it belongs to the ‘Above’ category of joins. 
Pic 6.  Explaining the visuals for Part II
A split ring has two halves : the first half (yellow in pics) is worked like a normal ring with flipped stitches or DS and any links on this side will include the Picot Joins and LHPJ (Refer I.1, I.2). The second half of a SR is made with reverse or unflipped stitches using SH2 and the SH1/core thread shuttle is not on hand. Thus the linkage calls for slight modification of movements, to ensure the core thread continues to slide freely after the join is made.
There are 3 main ways to accomplish this linkage :

I.3.a  Split Ring Join 
UPDATE: Reverse Stitch Join is a better, generic term since the same method/join is used in case of direct tatted chains, etc. The join is basically a feature of the reverse stitch, and not the element.
aka Transitional join10, Split Ring Core join11, Join to second side of SR12, Joining second half of SR13.
One comes across different names, as listed above, but the basic movement and formation remains the same. They have, therefore, been clubbed together under ‘Split Ring Join’ in order to distinguish this formation from 1.3.b & c.

  • A loop of SH1/core thread is pulled Up or Down through picot, and SH2 is passed through it. The core thread is then tensioned so that it ‘pops’ back from the picot with the SH2 thread wrapped around it.
  • It allows core thread to slide freely.
  • This join can be counted as a hs.
  • An up loop creates a colour blip on the front side; a down loop creates a colour blip on back side. Hence when working with 2 colours, use a Down loop to keep colour blips at back of work14.    
  • Any element (ring or chain) worked with RS can be linked with this join.
  • It follows the basic principle of a picot join.
Pic 7. Split Ring Join made with
Up & Down loops

(click on image to enlarge)

Rule : It is advisable to keep the loop that is pulled through joining picot untwisted while passing shuttle through loop for making any join.

I.3.b Lark’s Head Picot Join with Shuttle 2 (S2LHPJ) 15
This is a slightly elaborate multi-step procedure to wrap and flip a complete DS within the joining picot, thus creating an “invisible join”. While the 1st half of a SR can be joined using a LHPJ, the 2nd half needs to be wrapped a bit differently.   
  • 1uSHS is made outside the picot, before commencing the linkage formation within picot.
  • A loop from SH2 is pulled up through picot and SH2 passed through loop. Several ensuing movements enable the formation of a DS which is snugged into position. 
  • The join is counted as 1 complete stitch and lies within the picot.
  • Useful for smooth visual effect, with a continuous line of stitches.
  • A colour blip will be seen at the back only if joining picot is of different colour.
  • Any element (ring or chain) worked with RS can be linked with this join. 
Pic 8. Lark's Head Picot Join
made with Shuttle 2 (S2LHPJ)

I.3.c  Lock Join with Shuttle 2 thread
A third way to join SR is with a lock/shuttle join using SH2.
  • Pull a loop of SH2 through picot, pass SH2 through loop, adjust  tension carefully.
  • It locks the SH2 thread, while keeping SH1/core thread free.
  • This is a very easy and quick method. But care must be taken to position the thread carefully before final tensioning.
  • It does not create much of a colour blip.
  • It leaves a visible bump/bar along the line of stitches which may not be visually appealing.
[update] This join is also used in Inverted Tatting. Also called Ball Lock Join - http://www.georgiaseitz.com/2004/joins/mminvertedtat.jpg 
Pic 9. Lock Joins using Shuttle 2

The ball thread join 16
A decorative variation of LJ with SH2 which can be employed in all kinds of rings and chains.   
The movements of I.3.c are followed, but a space of thread is left on either side. (refer Pic 9)
The bare thread space of SH2 before and after the LJ imitate the picots in the element being worked. Thus the actual join is not placed in line with the previous stitches; it is placed at the tip of a mock picot. It enables the tatter to maintain, and continue with the decorative look of the element which is being linked.


This completes Category I. 
In Part III we will consider Category II where links are made Across elements.

Feedback, correction, or addition is welcome.
I will convert this entire series into a pdf file for easy reference, with requisite updates and modifications. 

Related Posts : Demystifying Joins  
_____________________________________________ 
Footnotes & Tutorials (Part II) :
14 Most tutorials show the Up loop being used to make the Split Ring join. Compare the up & down loop, as well as the SH2 movements in the collage picture.
15 Lily Morales 2003 
16 Martha Ess The instructions & pictures are shared in her Butterick Butterfly Bookmark pattern.