pds – padded double stitch

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Padding the Double Stitch - any which way !

We’ve heard of padded tatting. We’ve also heard of/used Double Double stitch & Balanced Double Stitch to straighten out long chains. Some may even remember self-padded double stitch from an earlier time. Are all these the same or different ?

Here is my attempt (delayed by over a year, sorry) to make some sense of it all. I apologize for the length of this post ... 

Some sentences/paras are direct quotes from the original thread here. To distinguish these, I’ve used a different font in blue. Anything in italics here is my personal comment. Unless otherwise indicated, all quotes are by Judith Connors. Needle tatting quotes are by Judy Anderson.

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I.  The  Terms

Existent :

s-p ds : self-padded double stitch or self-padded ring (Rhoda Auld, 1974),

BDS : Balanced double stitch (Ruth Perry, 2008), 

DDS : Double Double stitch (Jane Eborall, 2009), 

Proposed :  Padded  Double  Stitch  (pds)

pds : padded double stitch (emerged/evolved through a discussion in Craftree, 2014)

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II.  Why  call  it  pds ?

1. Historical credit. Padded double stitch is simply shortened from Rhoda’s first known use of ‘self-padding a ds’. “Her experimentations are recorded on page 84 of her book, 'Tatting: the contemporary art of knotting with a shuttle'”.  This was arrived at after some detailed discussion, investigation, & experimentation by participants in the thread "Balanced Double Stitch (?)" started by Judith.
2. BDS & DDS are only two of the possible motions (& applications) that can create padding in a stitch, making them a subset of the pds formation. Refer to ensuing points & Table in Sec.IV 
   
3. Variable/unequal wraps on the half stitches or between ds can create graduated, transitional, or unique effects on any ring or chain. (I shared some possibilities here). But then the stitch will not remain ‘Balanced’, nor only a ‘Double’. Hence a generic term like padded ds seems more appropriate.
4. And pds, with it’s proposed Notation System captures this variability in written form, too. See examples of notation in next segment.
5. “Padded double stitches may be applied, for effect, to known elements in tatting.” Besides large rings & long chains, they can be used in Split rings, Onion/concentric rings, Josephines, etc. as showcased in pictures below.    
6. Standardization to reduce confusion – both with multiple terms as well as notation. pds could be considered a generic term .

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III.  Notation for padded double stitch

A double stitch is made of 2 half stitches, called 1^st HS/fhs & 2^nd HS/shs.

Hence in order to show padding wraps, we include the half stitches in brackets, with number of wraps indicated on each.

Thus,

1. ‘Balanced’/Equal Padding :

pds(1,1) means 1 wrap on fhs & 1 wrap on shs.

So, if you’ve been reading carefully, what would pds(1,1) represent ??

Yes! pds(1,1) = BDS or DDS !!!  And by same logic, pds(0,0) = DS!

pds(2,2) = 2 wraps each on each half stitch.

2. Variable/Unequal Padding :

pds(1,3) = 1 wrap on fhs & 3 wraps on shs.

pds(4,2) = 4 wraps on fhs & 2 wraps on shs.

pds(0,2) = no wrap on fhs & 2 wraps on shs.

pds(3,0) = 3 wraps on fhs & no wrap on shs.

pds(0,1) = no wrap on fhs, 1 wrap on shs. (Half DDS by Jane Eborall, 2014)

In these 3 examples , 0 or no wrap means that half stitch is tatted like a normal half stitch, without any padding , as seen in above pic, where Chain is pds(0,5) 

3. Number of Stitches :

Just as one puts a numeral before ds to indicate how many stitches are to be tatted, one puts a numeral before ‘pds’ to indicate the number of stitches required.

3pds(1,1) = 3 padded ds with 1 wrap in each half stitch.

6pds(3,2) = 6 stitches with 3 wraps in fhs & 2 wraps in shs

5pds(0,3) = 5 pds with no wrap in fhs & 3 wraps in shs.

4. Special Elements :
Josephines are worked with only one of the half stitches - either 1st or 2nd only. This can be represented with a “–” for the missing half st.

Eg. JR 10pds(–,2) = a J Ring of 10 sts padded with 2 wraps on the shs ;
JC 6pds(3,–) = J chain of 6 sts padded with 3 wraps on fhs.     

    

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IV.  Tabulated  Comparison  of  Stitches

For pdf download of table : "Padding" the Stitch Table (revised) 

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V.  How to Wrap the half stitches ?

Refer to Table above. Click on names below for direct link to resource.

Resources/Tutorials referred to by :  Ruth Perry , Jane Eborall , Karen Cabrera .

This post is more about unifying the seemingly different movements applied to attain the same result. I would love for you to take up your shuttle(s) & some scrap thread & try out the 3 versions for yourself & have fun discovering the Wow moment ! And also find your own comfort movement :-) Humour me ?

And one can’t really go wrong . WHY ?

If you make a mistake in the wrap, it will do only 1 of 2 things :

either unwrap immediately so that you have no padding (it is easily visible)

OR

it will create a knotty situation (pun intended) when you try to snug it close. So in either case, one will realise one's mistake & can rectify it immediately.

My Submission : The extra wrap(s) can be made anywhere !

It does not matter Where the extra ‘wrap’ is made – on the core thread, or on the loop of the half stitch that is being formed, on the ‘leg’, or on the ‘auxiliary’ thread (chain/ball/shuttle 2 thread), or How it is made – whether before flipping or after! Once the half stitch is Flipped, &/or the threads tensioned, the result is the Same ! After flipping the half stitch, whichever it is, the wraps will coil around the core thread in the same way seen in 3rd pic from top , or pics #4 & #8 below. And tensioning or snugging, the stitch will also produce the exact same padded effect.

There are 3 ‘ways’ to wrap around a half stitch (before or after flipping)

1. core thread (as Jane does)
2. 'leg' loop of stitch (as Karen does)
3. working 'cap'/upper thread of stitch loop (in pictorial below)

and it will make no difference to the end result ! The 3^rd way is photographed below 

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VI.  3^rd Way of Padding the Double Stitch

A Quick Pictorial
… making the wrap on the top auxiliary thread part of flipped half stitch – the ‘cap’ part

Since the formation of the wrap is of no consequence, one is free to choose what one finds most comfortable & easy. In fact, I have used all 3 wrapping movements interchangeably in my Wreath Ornament ! I usually wrap around ‘cap’; but for reverse stitch or 2^nd half of SR, I find it easier to wrap around the taut core thread.

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VII.  Are these the same ?

1. Padded Tatting and ‘Padding’ Tatting !

'padded tatting' is a concept which would embrace a number of effects:
* using multiple core threads or a cord, as in pearl tatting (aka parallel and Maltese tatting);
* the use of wool, in needle tatting;
* using threads of two different thicknesses, the thicker one as the core;
* Rhoda Auld's and our recent padded (wrapped) double stitch --> padded chain and padded ring. [This includes the BDS & DDS].
There are probably others, depending on the experimentation of various tatters.

Thus pds is a ‘subset’ of padded tatting where we are ‘padding’ the stitch, without use of any auxiliary thread. Can be done with both a regular double stitch (flipped) or the unflipped reverse stitch formations, and any element using them. So, while we keep saying padded DS, it could well be padded RS

2. Roll Tatting & Padded DS

The movement is similar, one is making wraps ! But in Roll tatting, one wraps around the Core thread Only, with no stitches.

In Padded DS, one is wrapping within the stitch.

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VIII.  Can it be done in Needle Tatting ?

YES, and it is so much easier ! 

This technique is not limited to shuttle tatting. For needle-tatters, Judy points out how easy it is : “just circle that finger twice before putting on the needle.” So, the wraps are made on the finger !

Judy goes on to say “This needle tatter has used both padding and variable tension.. and both at the same time ... to make a reasonable script J for a monogram. Tight curves, rounder ones and straight sections…”

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IX.  Final  Observations

CHARACTERISTICS :

It provides thickness, texture, interest, stiffness, bulk, highlight. 
It is very easy to do & very practical for long lengths of chains, large rings, and many decorative elements. 
It makes the stitch wider/broader, too.
 “It works well for a bracelet because the chain is not curved as a normal chain would be.” (Jane McLellan)
It is perfect for 3D &/or freeform tatting to add stiffness & effect. I have used the pds in a lot of my freeform 3D patterns, listed at end.  

RELEVANT FACTORS :

Size of thread is inversely related. Fewer wraps possible with thicker thread, because it is unwieldy to tension.

But quantity of thread used is directly proportional to the number of wraps.

Soft silky threads make better wraps.

Tension plays a role in the final visual effect of each stitch as well as the overall appearance.

For noticeable visible difference in effect when making unequal/variable wraps in half stitches of same DS – the difference in wraps should be more than One.

LIMITATIONS :

As the number of wraps increase, the thread may start to twist. Suspend shuttle to normalize.

For same reason, padding a Josephine ring or chain, may become slightly more difficult.

TIP (Judith Connors)  “… the adage 'Less is more' is advised, as over-padding could alter the integrity of the known elements.

Some tatters never use this type of double stitch, preferring to tension the double stitches less so that the chains do not curve much at all. [When I tension less in some sections of inverted tatting, I can produce chains which are straight.]”

I invite your inputs, opinion, feedback, & suggestions .

Thanks to All Designers & Participants 

who have contributed so much to tatting & it's evolution

Related Posts : My experiments and trials

My patterns using pds : Wreath , Rustic Leaf , Poppy , 

Snowflake , Morning Glory , Doodle 

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  Ninetta’s Curled Rings was voted as the Best Tatting Tutorial

  

2 of my projects & 2 tutorials had been nominated, of which this one won. 

I think it is very much in keeping with my 2 passions - TATeaching :-)))

A BIG Thanks to all you wonderful voters for such a lovely gift :-)

and a very special Thanks to Ninetta for sharing your creative originality, 

to Fiona for altering my perspective, 

& Kersti for her wonderful forum  ...

((( HUGS )))

CONGRATULATIONS to all nominees & winners – your work is always an inspiration

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okay, okay, I'm going ..... ;-)

Tatting : Experimenting with a Stitch

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Self-Padded Double Stitch

Is it an s-p ds ?

Is it a DDS ?

Is it a BDS ?

Is it a dds ?

No, I’m not high, but I Was all confused as many of us are when we encounter new &  multiple tatting terms, try to look for tutorials/definitions/explanations & find out (if we are lucky) that they All apply to the Same Technique !!!

This is the message Judith Connors tried to put across when she recently started an InTatters thread about the history & multiplicity of the Balanced Double Stitch.
UPDATE : InTatters has shifted to Craftree & click here for the new link to thread. 

Before proceeding further, let me give the full forms & sources of the above abbreviations :

s-p ds : self-padded double stitch by Rhoda Auld in her book 'Tatting: the contemporary art of knotting with a shuttle' (1974)

DDS : double double stitch or padded double stitch by Jane Eborall  (2009)

BDS : Balanced double stitch by Ruth Perry   (2008)

All 3 terms refer to the Same technique.

Okay, dds is the odd one out here. Jane Eborall uses it to refer to the Daisy double stitch.

(click on links for the respective tutorials)

During the discussion, there were many queries, explanations, suggestions, etc. This brought on some experimentation too. Here is my exploration into this stitch domain.

I first learned it from Ruth Perry & hence called it BDS. I loved the effect of this ‘basic’ stitch & had already used this stitch in my designs. A BDS/s-p chain does not curl as much as a normal ds chain would. It has more texture, bulk, & stiffness.

But then Judy, in the same thread, spoke about varying the number of half stitches!!! That was exciting stuff to try out. But this also created a problem about how to notate the count. Judith’s historical knowledge came to the rescue again. Rhoda Auld used the term "wrap" to indicate the number of times thread is wrapped around the core for padding !

UPDATE : Judith Connors added a summary at the end of the discussion thread here (post#74)

·                       'Padding' tatting has been done for over a century. The earliest practices were padded pearl tatting, and the use of uneven thicknesses of threads. These padded the core thread, mostly.

·                       Rhoda L. Auld experimented with wrapping the double stitch itself, and in 1974 published her 'self-padded double stitch' and 'self-padded ring'. This could be applied to equal and unequal numbers of wraps, on either half-stitch.

·                       In 2008 Ruth Perry applied one extra wrap to each half-stitch, calling this a 'balanced double stitch'. It is only one of the possibilities of self-padding double stitches.

·                       This thread has investigated Rhoda Auld's approach to equal and unequal numbers of wraps, and chosen to call the result the 'padded double stitch' - pds(1,3), 1 and 3 indicating the number of wraps on the half-stitches, or pds(2,2).

·                       Padded double stitches may be applied, for effect, to known elements in tatting. However, the adage 'Less is more' is advised, as over-padding could alter the integrity of the known elements. “

Accordingly, I am updating the notations in this post & using 'pds' instead of 's-pds'.

Here are my trials, with pictures , stitch counts, & comments/observations …I have used size 20 thread.

Self-padded Chains

# 1 : In this 1^st picture, all stitches are 5 in number & Both 1^st & 2^nd halves of a ds, whether padded or not, are the same.

• As is clearly visible, while count remains same, length & width of each subsequent segment increases with each increase of wrap !
• I found it easier to do the 2^nd half stitch wraps than the 1^st half.
• This time I managed both 4 wraps And 5 wraps too. Altho’ neatness is lacking.
• When I loosened the 5-wrap ds, it seems to have had a better effect than when the tension was tighter.
• Unknotting/unraveling a pds becomes a tad cumbersome as wrap count goes up.

# 2 : In this trial, all 1^st half stitches are normal FHS of a ds (i.e., no padding); padding is applied Only to the 2^nd half stitches. Hence “Variable” pds. Each segment is 7 stitches.

• If stitches are snugged a little loosely, then a subtle ric-rac effect is visible. However, it is a very delicate balance between ‘loose’ & ‘tight’. If too tight, then individuality is lost ; if too loose, then the chain tends to twirl & flop a bit.

# 3 : Josephine Chains & Ring made using pds (2^nd half stitches) . My love of Josephines got the better of me & curiosity made me try out how the Josephines would turn out with padded stitches !

I used only 2 wraps & the 2^nd half st (SHS) since I find it quicker & easier to handle than the FHS of pds.

• In the 1^st segment of J. chain, the stitches were tatted ‘normally’ tension-wise (i.e. a bit tight) & snugged close together too.
• In the 2^nd segment, I deliberately loosened the stitch, thus getting a broader wave !
• Josephine Ring made with 2-wrap SHS is almost twice the size of a normal J. Ring as can be seen in the pic.

I added a 4^th picture showing 5 wraps of the 2^nd half stitch, just before closing it.

The texture is superb. And these padded chains can be used by designers in various ways to enhance their tatting project. 

TIP : As the wrap count increases, the stitches acquire a beaded effect in the variable s-p trial.  Especially, I think, if one makes the FHS tight & the s-p SHS a little loose. Then one could get a ‘spiral’ or wavy cap.

This was just a 'dry-run' to see effects of this stitch. And I tried this only on chains. These stitches can be used to make rings, too (self-padded rings as Rhoda called them).
It will be even more exciting to Apply this stitch in newer & different ways !

TIP : Try this stitch with finer threads, including silk & floss. It will be interesting to see the results !

Would love to get your feedback, inputs, & criticism, as well as view any trials/projects made with this stitch.
I will update if any further information , etc. comes my way.

Thanks for reading through, if you have ;-))

UPDATE :

I should’ve mentioned that these chains, due to the increased thickness & texture, can be used in bracelets, cords, bookmarks, free-form tatting, & all sorts of other applications, including edgings, etc. ! 

It is up to the designers  ! 

Here’s another possibility – a beaded chain/cord with no beads !!!

In 1st half segment of cord (towards the left) I have alternated 1ds with 1pds(5). { 5 within brackets represents 5 wraps} I kept the ds 'tight' & the pds 'normal' in tension. In reality, it looks & feels pretty nice - like tiny beads !

It would work so wonderfully in various applications.

In 2nd (right) half of the cord, I used Only pds(5), separated by a SLT {SLT - shoe lace trick}. I used 2 different colors in the 2 shuttles & switched them with the SLT, so that one can see white 'beads' alternating with blue ones.
Not very nicely done ;
the SLTs seem to make the cord flip around a bit - it does not stay even. Or maybe I was SLT-ing wrongly..
Altho' both threads are from the same brand, same size (20), same purchase, the white appears thicker & stiffer as compared to the variegated blue !!! Hence the difference in the sts even tho' both were made with the exact same number of wraps.
This segment needs to be tried again for clearer results & inferences.

So, here is my contribution - a beaded cord with no beads (but bds ! ) 

Related Posts : All about pds
Wreath Ornament

Rustic Leaf Pendant
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Tiny Heart Poppy
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