All
Coiled Up, Curled & Cozy !
No intention of boring my dear dear readers by revisiting same
stuff ….
Just thought it might still be helpful to anybody who is interested
& wants to apply them to their tatting .
And I Love curls, coils, curlicues – the shape is just so elegant and free flowing !
It all started with this thread in Craftree and Lynn directing us to this video tutorial by Karen
Cabrera, as a possible
technique to apply. Well, it Was !!! And hugs & thanks to Lynn for opening up a wonderful world of
Karen’s videos as well as the possibilities these curlicues have for
free form/free style tatting.
Dead end start to normal Chains
Neither of these techniques
is, however, possible in case of a dead end start to Single Shuttle Split or Floating Chains
WHY ? .... Because ....
- the stitches are not flipped. When all stitches are Unflipped, how does one
make a Lock Stitch ?!
- there is no chain thread to grip & wrap
around the fingers while tatting, to hold taut.
- there is no place (thread or element) to hold in
a pinch while beginning the SSSCh. Nothing to anchor one’s tatting.
But what if one wants a “pure coil”; a simple
curvilinear chain ?!
To overcome these problems, one needs , first, an anchor & grip of some
sort. Following are my solutions mainly in
notated picture form with some general/overall tips summarized at the end of the post.
Possible Dead End Starts to
Single Shuttle Split
Chains / Floating Chains
Please Note : For the main movements on how to work the chain, please refer to Karen’s video tutorial.
I am only illustrating a few options to begin a dead end split chain , which have worked for me.
Size 20 , 10 or thick threads ….
Clockwise
Curlicue
For Size
20 or thicker thread , use a pin , a safety pin, paper clip, needle…..
Measure the length of chain (curlicue) you desire, & make a
very simple SLT-type Single knot on the pin at that point. (This kind of acts as a Lock Stitch later)
Note that since it is a SSSCh, we are working with a pulled-out length of Shuttle thread only !




Counter-Clockwise
Curlicue
These curlicues can be made in either direction ; clockwise as
well as counterclockwise.
The above 2 chains were made starting from left to right, resulting
in a clockwise coil.
The following chain will be made starting from right to left,
resulting in a counterclockwise coil.
In both cases, Reverse
Stitch is being used (also
called 2nd half of
Split ring method, lark’s head knot, unflipped stitches/hitches,
encapsulation, etc. )
In Jane’s pearl tatting, if one uses Sh2 movement in SSSCH, then
one gets a clockwise curlicue ; if one adopts Sh1 movement, one gets an
anticlockwise curlicue.
In my photo-tut, pics 3B to 3H illustrate the loop & shuttle
movements in order to work the RS with caps facing on top of core thread.
One must remember, though, that in case of these counterclockwise
floating curlicues, one is working from right to left. Order of
hitches/unflipped stitches remains the same – 2nd half then 1st half, & repeat…
Theoretically,
one could RW & tat the counterclockwise curlicue as the clockwise one.
But I could not handle it - there are too many things going on : no place for a proper pinch ;
short length of core thread ; And the tatted part comes in the way of shuttle movement, if Reversed !
For Finer threads : Size 40, 80, etc. or rayon, silk, …
A pin worked fine when
working with size 20 thread. There is no space/gap at the beginning of the
chain. However, this same pin proved too big when working with fine threads
such as rayon & silk as I did in this Tatting for Holi composition.
My solution for fine threads
– use a length of sewing thread in place of a pin ! For medium-sized threads,
dental floss, fishing thread, etc. can be used. Rummage through your sewing
kits for the right size of thread to start the curlicue !
Following images demonstrate
some key steps in starting a dead-end Curlicue
Some
Useful Tips :
· When you pull tight, after removing the pin / auxiliary thread, a Lock Stitch effect takes place & the end ‘hitch’ gets locked in. You can push the hitches all you want, but they will stay as a curve ! No gap / space is seen at the start, once the pin/thread is pulled out & hitches snugged against the starting point.
· For greater coiling effect, pull the hitches snug ; the tighter or closer they are, the greater the curve.
· However, the hitches themselves should not be made too tight. Otherwise they will not move neatly, smoothly, easily over the core thread to form a coil.
·
I
prefer using a pin/needle for counterclockwise SSSCh, because it can be pierced
through fabric/mattress, thus keeping the work steady & anchored, & also keeps
the core thread taut to make hitches.
·
Choice
of pin, thread, yarn, wool, or floss would depend on the size of tatting thread one is
working with. For 20 & above, pin is fine. For 30 & 40, floss would
work. For 80 & less, any appropriate sewing thread can be used.
I concede that reading or simply viewing the pics might be a bit confusing.
But once the shuttles are picked up, it all "clicks" together.
happy tatting :-)
Related posts
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/05/i-love-butterflies.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/05/i-love-floating.html