Pin It now!
I haven’t picked up my shuttles in a long time despite
spending all my free time in tatting-related activities and interaction. And I’ve
been neglecting my blog, too – can’t let that happen!
Well over a week back, this is what I made quickly for
an experienced friend. She, too, like I,
avoids the folded join when making a picot join to the right. I prefer to
rotate the work slightly on my hand, repositioning the picot on the right such
that it now comes to the left, and then execute the join normally. These are my detailed pictorials and article on the topic -
http://www.tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com2016/03/demystifying-joins.html - about picot join
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part1.html - outward facing rigs
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part-2.html - chains and down join
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/10/picot-join-to-right-part-3.html - where we need this join.
What I did not explicitly show in Part 2 was what happens when all rings face inwards. She was under the impression that 'with inward facing rings no such rotation is required to execute the final join since we are working counterclockwise'. Visuals are better than words, hence …
Picot Join to the
Right – Part 4
(joining last
inward facing ring to the first using Rotate Work)
The following motif comprises single inward facing rings (4-4-4) separated by bare thread and joined to each in the round.
1. 6 rings have been worked and the last, 7th ring is started. It needs to be joined to Ring. 6, so pull up a loop through the picot of previous ring. This picot is to the left of current work and we perform the action almost on autopilot, without any extra movement.
2. The same as #1, but laid flat to see clearly, The knotting thread is pulled through picot. Note- this can be pulled down for frontside tatting.
3. Now comes the point at which Ring7 is to be joined to Ring1.
Where is this joining picot in relation to this last ring? It is to the Right. Try making the join without shifting the motif.
4. Hence some form of picot join to the right is needed - be it a folded join, or a simple rotation, or whatever you are comfortable with.
5. Since we are avoiding the folded join, notice the slight counterclockwise rotation of motif while still in hand, to reach the picot. The movement is so subtle, that it goes unnoticed, unlike in a rosette with outward facing rings (
Part 1)
My own theory is that we need to rotate more when rings face outward, hence it is immediately noticed.
6. Loop pulled up through picot and shuttle being passed through it.
7. Join made and ring closed.
8. Motif complete. Tail ends hidden.
The principle to remember is this (TWoT Notes): Whether overall work (motif or lace) progresses clockwise or counterclockwise, whether we are working on the front or the back, the current element - Ring - is Always worked clockwise*, and Chain is Always worked from left to right. Hence when joining in a circle (last to first), whether the rings or chains face inward or outward, the joining picot on the first element will be to the right of current element, and a Picot Join to the Right will be needed.
*The only exception that comes to mind is a Reverse Ring where stitches are being added counterclockwise.
UPDATE: A tatter graciously shared her feedback after trying it - this method works well in needle tatting as well!
Practice Patterns :
For further practice, try this R1:4-2-4-2-4. bare thread. R2:4+2+4-2-4. and so on ... where each ring is joined to the previous ring through Two picots on each side. The last ring will need to be joined to the first 2 picots on Ring1.
Also consider inward facing trefoils or clovers instead of single rings.
eg. this
Clover Wreath Poinsettia is good practice for the picot join to right. It has both inward facing clovers as well as outward facing thrown rings that need to be joined in a circle.
Some joins are made between a ring segment. It helps to control the curvature of the spray besides being more stable.
