armadillo join

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 Back in 2015 when I first ventured into tatting Eleonore Endrucks' patterns from her 1920 book, Die Schiffchen-Spitzen, (I had started with E22 for the summer homework by Georgia's Online Tatting Class) there were patterns including the very first one where the 2nd repeat/motif joins to the first with two consecutive joins. One is a normal picot join to a picot lying above the line of tatting (on the previous motif) and one is a lock join to a hidden picot lying below (on the same motif).  

I tried various methods to incorporate both joins into one continuous movement but was unsuccessful - the result just didn't seem neat. So you can imagine my immense excitement when I encountered Gretchen Miller's Armadillo Join earlier this year (July 2025)! She came up with it as a solution to linking two pieces of enameled metal for one of her patterns. She uploaded a video here -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JRveDx6Wf4 . When I sought her permission to share a pictorial she was happy to note that the join could be used in pure tatted lace as well. And what I had missed in my 2015 trials was the final step, LOL.

ARMADILLO  JOIN

Gretchen Miller (Tattered Armadillo) July 2025

video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JRveDx6Wf4 

Since I have created a PDF for the pictorial which can be downloaded by clicking this link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PfM7UMj9YIIW3cA8fEVB1OgaXabFeo_L/view - I will keep the text below to a minimum.

Shuttle 1 - mustard thread ; ball or shuttle 2 - blue thread.

Note: The join is worked with a single shuttle.

Normally, one would consecutively make a lock join to the chain picot below and a picot join to the ring picot above and then proceed with the current chain. Armadillo join allows us to make both linkages simultaneously.....

... by pulling a loop of the ball thread up through the picot above and then bringing it down through the picot below.

Then shuttle is passed through it. Notice how it is basically a picot join, except that the loop goes through two picots on opposite side of the current chain.

But here's one extra step where the shuttle is brought back to the left by passing it under the loop.

The linkage is complete and now all we need to do is remove all slack.

Now steps 7 and 8, I find, require some practice and dexterity to remove slack from all the threads and loop.

Thus we have not only linked the current chain to two picots, but have simultaneously moved across to the right! Clever, right?! 

I haven't been able to experiment and explore it too much, although I did make it backside on the E1 sampler at the top. And my next post will feature a derivative pattern where it can be used.

Many many thanks to Gretchen for sharing this join!

awakened

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 The curious student, researcher, and teacher in me was awakened about 4 days back! My shuttles have been lying idle for several weeks, except perhaps a sampler here and there. But last month Ninetta posted a beautiful derivative pattern and some tatters were kind of stumped despite their best intentions and efforts. Some persevered, and some sailed through. Anyways, I was curious why some gave up, and loaded my shuttles for a stepwise pictorial after taking Ninetta's permission. The teacher in me beckoned!

This is Ninetta's Zinnia Flower derived from Endrucks' pattern #10 (from 'Die Schiffchen-Spitzen’,1920, by Frau Eleonore Endrucks-Leichtenstern).

I was privy to the development of this beautiful design back since April. There was cupping initially and through trials and tweaks, she finally had it laying flat. However I did not have any time to test tat.

Anna Tedesco stepped in and even created her own slightly tweaked version without dimpled rings (on the right)! It was Anna who suggested the name Zinnia.

Pattern (for both versions) of E10 Zinnia Flower by Ninetta Caruso ---

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TmGlBbn1z7khele2a6g-djMlVZ8oRBFw/view

And as so often happens with Endrucks' derivatives, we have tertiary extracts or 'grandchildren' as Anna and Paola B like to joke! These are Anna's Zinnia Petals earrings.

Pattern for E10 Zinnia Petals earrings by Anna Tedesco ---

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wjm5jpwgu7hCDNopJUxOtHY5xQXSKM-C/view

I worked my model in Red Rose size 20. The variegated was inspired by Lyn Clements' model; not as cheerful as her's, it was the closest I could find in this size. For pictorials, it is best to use thicker thread for clarity.

Pictorial for Ninetta Caruso's E10 Zinnia Flower by Muskaan ---

https://drive.google.com/file/d/13vIapAG6XSvBgOeWJr32PxvpoOIr-I_5/view

I love the way Ninetta joined the ring right at the beginning with a normal picot join! We would probably have made a lock join after the chain, RW, and then start the ring....

However, this method of joining is almost seamless and so smooth! However I fond it easier to do the join. remove slack, and then start the ring by pulling out the loop behind. 

I don't remember doing this before; always something to learn!

UPDATE (Dec2024): This is Patty Dowden's Ring on Picot method ... video- https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LmMxIBrDpRI

The entire pattern is worked in one pass, moving inwards and outwards. Right up to the stage shown above, the work moves clockwise and remains free. Only this final 6th inner ring starts the process of joining the last repeat to the first.

Another view of my model. It measures 9.5 cms tip-wise and 5 cms as side of hexagon.

A collective of Anna's models worked in metallic threads. 

As Ninetta writes in her pdf, Zinnias symbolize friendship. This motif again reinforces the collaboration between friends and tatters which is the cornerstone of the Endrucks 1920 Project!

Many many thanks to Ninetta, Anna and our enthusiastic Endrucksians ... 

we inspire each other!

picot join to right part 4

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I haven’t picked up my shuttles in a long time despite spending all my free time in tatting-related activities and interaction. And I’ve been neglecting my blog, too – can’t let that happen!

Well over a week back, this is what I made quickly for an experienced friend.  She, too, like I, avoids the folded join when making a picot join to the right. I prefer to rotate the work slightly on my hand, repositioning the picot on the right such that it now comes to the left, and then execute the join normally. These are my detailed pictorials and article on the topic -

http://www.tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com2016/03/demystifying-joins.html - about picot join
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part1.html - outward facing rigs
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part-2.html - chains and down join
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/10/picot-join-to-right-part-3.html - where we need this join.

What I did not explicitly show in Part 2 was what happens when all rings face inwards. She was under the impression that 'with inward facing rings no such rotation is required to execute the final join  since we are working counterclockwise'. Visuals are better than words, hence …

Picot Join to the Right – Part 4 

(joining last inward facing ring to the first using Rotate Work)

The following motif comprises single inward facing rings (4-4-4) separated by bare thread and joined to each in the round. 

 

1. 6 rings have been worked and the last, 7th ring is started. It needs to be joined to Ring. 6, so pull up a loop through the picot of previous ring. This picot is to the left of current work and we perform the action almost on autopilot, without any extra movement.

2. The same as #1, but laid flat to see clearly, The knotting thread is pulled through picot. Note- this can be pulled down for frontside tatting.

3. Now comes the point at which Ring7 is to be joined to Ring1. 

Where is this joining picot in relation to this last ring? It is to the Right. Try making the join without shifting the motif. 

4. Hence some form of picot join to the right is needed - be it a folded join, or a simple rotation, or whatever you are comfortable with.

5. Since we are avoiding the folded join, notice the slight counterclockwise rotation of motif while still in hand, to reach the picot. The movement is so subtle, that it goes unnoticed, unlike in a rosette with outward facing rings (Part 1) 

My own theory is that we need to rotate more when rings face outward, hence it is immediately noticed.

6. Loop pulled up through picot and shuttle being passed through it.

7. Join made and ring closed.

8. Motif complete. Tail ends hidden.

The principle to remember is this (TWoT Notes): Whether overall work (motif or lace) progresses clockwise or counterclockwise, whether we are working on the front or the back, the current element - Ring - is Always worked clockwise*, and Chain is Always worked from left to right. Hence when joining in a circle (last to first), whether the rings or chains face inward or outward, the joining picot on the first element will be to the right of current element, and a Picot Join to the Right will be needed.

*The only exception that comes to mind is a Reverse Ring where stitches are being added counterclockwise. 

UPDATE: A tatter graciously shared her feedback after trying it - this method works well in needle tatting as well!

Practice Patterns : 

For further practice, try this R1:4-2-4-2-4. bare thread. R2:4+2+4-2-4. and so on ... where each ring is joined to the previous ring through Two picots on each side. The last ring will need to be joined to the first 2 picots on Ring1.

Also consider inward facing trefoils or clovers instead of single rings. 

eg. this Clover Wreath Poinsettia is good practice for the picot join to right. It has both inward facing clovers as well as outward facing thrown rings that need to be joined in a circle.

Click to download pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5MqI5ByadI4eGpWRWdjWWRJMHc/view 

picot join to the right part 2

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Continuing on from the previous post, not just rings, but chains too can be joined to the right in the exact same way – rotate the work on your hand so that the joining picot lies to the left of work, make a normal picot join and continue.

So instead of repeating it all over again, I will switch to images showing how to join with a down loop instead of up loop. This is for directional tatting (frontside/backside), and creates a complete ds visually.

A simple enclosed space medallion was created to illustrate. Mustard colour thread in shuttle is joined to blue ball thread.

Pattern :

Ring  : 6 ± 3 – 3 – 6. reverse work

Chain: 3 (± 2)x9, - 3. rw.

Join ring to previous ring, and chain to previous chain.

         The last ring and chain will be joined on both sides. 

Picot Join to the Right - Part 2

(joining last chain to first using the down loop)

In a rosette such as the ones in Blossoms motif, rings face outward and hence a picot join to the right is needed. However, even when rings face inwards as in this medallion, the same join is required when linking back! So, in this medallion, we are using the join twice – once for rings (follow as in Part1) and then for chains.

1. The last chain is worked to the point where it needs to be linked to the first chain. 

This chain, with it’s joining picot is on the right side.

2. Start rotating the work in counterclockwise direction …

3. till we have the ball thread positioned under the picot 

4. and pull up a loop through that picot, passing shuttle through it as in any normal picot join. This can be followed by a 2^nd half stitch or a complete ds.

For frontside/backside tatting, with a down loop or down join, I am restarting from image #2 - 

5. After rotating, position the ball thread above the joining picot 

 6. and pull a loop down through it, passing the shuttle through this down loop.

 7. and start closing the loop

 8. The loop is now tensioned and snug – the 2 chains are successfully linked! 

Notice both threads are above the work.

NOTE : If we want both threads to be under/at back of the work, then before starting the linkage, place both ball and shuttle under, leaving only a short segment of the ball thread over the picot, through which we can pull a loop down.   

9. Work the 2^nd half stitch (along with the join, it counts as 1ds) and 2 more ds. 

This completes the last chain.

Quite a while back another relative beginner asked me where and how I tied off the 2 tails. This is how I do it (not all steps are pictured here) -

10. Needle the core thread and pierce through the base of the previous ring. (Imagine where the core thread would’ve been if it wasn’t the end).

11. The ball thread is passed through the tip/cap of the stitch on the adjacent chain. 

(again imagine or see how the threads lie in the previous segments when they are continuous).

12. I make a single overhand tie at the back, and …

13. whip stitch the core thread through the ring and the ball thread through the chain.

Leave off following the middle path mantra.

Tug and then snip off excess tail ends.

So, joining to a picot on the right of current work can be as easy as that – all a matter of perspective, and nothing to fear. And we have seen it in use in enclosed space medallions where rings faced outwards (previous rosette), and also for inward-facing rings and chains (the above medallion).

I’d like to talk a wee bit more about this join – a common threads kind of overview through various project pics.

to be continued (final part)

Related Posts

Part 1

Part 3

Joins in Shuttle Tatting

Part 4

picot join to the right part1

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Several weeks back an expert told me that the last to first join is not a beginner technique. I can see why, since there is a tendency for the joining picot to twist when linking to it. We are familiar with different names for this technique - twisted picot join, folded join, avoiding folded join, joining in a circle, rosette join, etc. (scroll down to I.1.b here) and excellent tutorials in various formats show us multiple ways of going about it.

But whichever method one employs it boils down to just 2 facts :

• the joining picot is on the right side of the current ring or chain being worked; and
• the join is ultimately a picot join.

Hence we can employ a generic term, Picot Join to the Right, irrespective of which particular movements a tatter uses to achieve it.

I understand and have tried the folded & twisted picot joins, but continue to avoid them. I get a sense of security & comfort in working it as a normal picot join. 
All I have to do is move the last picot to the left of the current tatting! 
And I consider this easy enough for any beginner to grasp and accomplish. Scroll down if this interests you …

The flowers (rosettes) in Blossoms motifs all require this join. Hence Part 1 shows how to do that last join, continue to completion, and also how I finish off the ends.

Picot Join to the Right - Part 1

( joining last ring to first in a rosette )
Only one step – rotate work to bring joining picot from right to left side!

One-shuttle pattern.

Each ring is (7–5–5–7), joined to previous ring. 7 rings total. 

Ring7 is linked to both Ring6 & Ring1, closing the medallion or circle.

 1. This is the common Picot Join where the joining picot is on the left side of the working element  (Ring7). We pull up a loop of ‘ball’ thread, pass shuttle through it, tension and snug, and continue with the second half stitch or a new double stitch.

Note: 

In fs/bs tatting, we pull a loop down on the frontside and then make the second half stitch.

 2. Here we have reached the point where the last ring (wip) needs to be linked to the first ring.

3. Rotate work on your hand. We do NOT have to take it off our fingers, simply rotate counterclockwise.

Notice how the picot is now on our left! Looks familiar, doesn't it?!

 4. Pull up a loop of ‘ball’ thread, just as in a picot join (as seen in #1).

5. Adjust the tension. Make sure that the core thread slides freely.

Notice how the threads are all on the front of (or above) the motif.

Note : 

If we need the threads to be at the back of the work, use this simple trick by Linda Davies. 

 6. Continue tatting to finish the last segment of this ring.

7. Close the ring. Picot Join to the Right has successfully completed the rosette!

Permit me to continue, to show how I end the motif. Notice there is a tiny loop (like a vsp) at the base of the first ring. I had tatted over the starting tail, leaving a small loop, but did not pull it tight. I left this tiny space for a reason...(I showed it here in more detail along with a pdf). 

UPDATE: This loop is used for the final join and Dale Pomeroy coined the term Shepherd's Crook Join for it.

8. Snip off the shuttle and thread the new tail.

 9. Insert needle through that space or loop.

10. Tug strongly at the old tail to close that gap. This also traps the new tail within.

(I sometimes use my teeth for a strong grip & pull) 

11. Bring the needle back through the space between the 2 rings 

and whip stitch through the back arcs of the last ring.

12. After whip stitching for a few stitches, tug tight and snip both tails close.

As with all techniques, what I have shown here is a viable alternative, but optional.  

We all have our favourites, and this works well for me.

I used a down loop, hence the joins all look like a complete double stitch.

This pictorial was already photographed when I received a ‘distress’ email last week, asking for help on how to proceed with the last chain after it has been joined to the first chain. I will share it in the next post since this is already pretty long.

.... Part 2 in next post 

Related Posts

Part 2

Part 3

Joins in Shuttle Tatting

Part 4