picot join to right part 4

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I haven’t picked up my shuttles in a long time despite spending all my free time in tatting-related activities and interaction. And I’ve been neglecting my blog, too – can’t let that happen!

Well over a week back, this is what I made quickly for an experienced friend.  She, too, like I, avoids the folded join when making a picot join to the right. I prefer to rotate the work slightly on my hand, repositioning the picot on the right such that it now comes to the left, and then execute the join normally. These are my detailed pictorials and article on the topic -

http://www.tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com2016/03/demystifying-joins.html - about picot join
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part1.html - outward facing rigs
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part-2.html - chains and down join
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/10/picot-join-to-right-part-3.html - where we need this join.

What I did not explicitly show in Part 2 was what happens when all rings face inwards. She was under the impression that 'with inward facing rings no such rotation is required to execute the final join  since we are working counterclockwise'. Visuals are better than words, hence …

Picot Join to the Right – Part 4 

(joining last inward facing ring to the first using Rotate Work)

The following motif comprises single inward facing rings (4-4-4) separated by bare thread and joined to each in the round. 

 

1. 6 rings have been worked and the last, 7th ring is started. It needs to be joined to Ring. 6, so pull up a loop through the picot of previous ring. This picot is to the left of current work and we perform the action almost on autopilot, without any extra movement.

2. The same as #1, but laid flat to see clearly, The knotting thread is pulled through picot. Note- this can be pulled down for frontside tatting.

3. Now comes the point at which Ring7 is to be joined to Ring1. 

Where is this joining picot in relation to this last ring? It is to the Right. Try making the join without shifting the motif. 

4. Hence some form of picot join to the right is needed - be it a folded join, or a simple rotation, or whatever you are comfortable with.

5. Since we are avoiding the folded join, notice the slight counterclockwise rotation of motif while still in hand, to reach the picot. The movement is so subtle, that it goes unnoticed, unlike in a rosette with outward facing rings (Part 1) 

My own theory is that we need to rotate more when rings face outward, hence it is immediately noticed.

6. Loop pulled up through picot and shuttle being passed through it.

7. Join made and ring closed.

8. Motif complete. Tail ends hidden.

The principle to remember is this (TWoT Notes): Whether overall work (motif or lace) progresses clockwise or counterclockwise, whether we are working on the front or the back, the current element - Ring - is Always worked clockwise*, and Chain is Always worked from left to right. Hence when joining in a circle (last to first), whether the rings or chains face inward or outward, the joining picot on the first element will be to the right of current element, and a Picot Join to the Right will be needed.

*The only exception that comes to mind is a Reverse Ring where stitches are being added counterclockwise. 

UPDATE: A tatter graciously shared her feedback after trying it - this method works well in needle tatting as well!

Practice Patterns : 

For further practice, try this R1:4-2-4-2-4. bare thread. R2:4+2+4-2-4. and so on ... where each ring is joined to the previous ring through Two picots on each side. The last ring will need to be joined to the first 2 picots on Ring1.

Also consider inward facing trefoils or clovers instead of single rings. 

eg. this Clover Wreath Poinsettia is good practice for the picot join to right. It has both inward facing clovers as well as outward facing thrown rings that need to be joined in a circle.

Click to download pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5MqI5ByadI4eGpWRWdjWWRJMHc/view 

picot join to the right part 2

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Continuing on from the previous post, not just rings, but chains too can be joined to the right in the exact same way – rotate the work on your hand so that the joining picot lies to the left of work, make a normal picot join and continue.

So instead of repeating it all over again, I will switch to images showing how to join with a down loop instead of up loop. This is for directional tatting (frontside/backside), and creates a complete ds visually.

A simple enclosed space medallion was created to illustrate. Mustard colour thread in shuttle is joined to blue ball thread.

Pattern :

Ring  : 6 ± 3 – 3 – 6. reverse work

Chain: 3 (± 2)x9, - 3. rw.

Join ring to previous ring, and chain to previous chain.

         The last ring and chain will be joined on both sides. 

Picot Join to the Right - Part 2

(joining last chain to first using the down loop)

In a rosette such as the ones in Blossoms motif, rings face outward and hence a picot join to the right is needed. However, even when rings face inwards as in this medallion, the same join is required when linking back! So, in this medallion, we are using the join twice – once for rings (follow as in Part1) and then for chains.

1. The last chain is worked to the point where it needs to be linked to the first chain. 

This chain, with it’s joining picot is on the right side.

2. Start rotating the work in counterclockwise direction …

3. till we have the ball thread positioned under the picot 

4. and pull up a loop through that picot, passing shuttle through it as in any normal picot join. This can be followed by a 2^nd half stitch or a complete ds.

For frontside/backside tatting, with a down loop or down join, I am restarting from image #2 - 

5. After rotating, position the ball thread above the joining picot 

 6. and pull a loop down through it, passing the shuttle through this down loop.

 7. and start closing the loop

 8. The loop is now tensioned and snug – the 2 chains are successfully linked! 

Notice both threads are above the work.

NOTE : If we want both threads to be under/at back of the work, then before starting the linkage, place both ball and shuttle under, leaving only a short segment of the ball thread over the picot, through which we can pull a loop down.   

9. Work the 2^nd half stitch (along with the join, it counts as 1ds) and 2 more ds. 

This completes the last chain.

Quite a while back another relative beginner asked me where and how I tied off the 2 tails. This is how I do it (not all steps are pictured here) -

10. Needle the core thread and pierce through the base of the previous ring. (Imagine where the core thread would’ve been if it wasn’t the end).

11. The ball thread is passed through the tip/cap of the stitch on the adjacent chain. 

(again imagine or see how the threads lie in the previous segments when they are continuous).

12. I make a single overhand tie at the back, and …

13. whip stitch the core thread through the ring and the ball thread through the chain.

Leave off following the middle path mantra.

Tug and then snip off excess tail ends.

So, joining to a picot on the right of current work can be as easy as that – all a matter of perspective, and nothing to fear. And we have seen it in use in enclosed space medallions where rings faced outwards (previous rosette), and also for inward-facing rings and chains (the above medallion).

I’d like to talk a wee bit more about this join – a common threads kind of overview through various project pics.

to be continued (final part)

Related Posts

Part 1

Part 3

Joins in Shuttle Tatting

Part 4

picot join to the right part1

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Several weeks back an expert told me that the last to first join is not a beginner technique. I can see why, since there is a tendency for the joining picot to twist when linking to it. We are familiar with different names for this technique - twisted picot join, folded join, avoiding folded join, joining in a circle, rosette join, etc. (scroll down to I.1.b here) and excellent tutorials in various formats show us multiple ways of going about it.

But whichever method one employs it boils down to just 2 facts :

• the joining picot is on the right side of the current ring or chain being worked; and
• the join is ultimately a picot join.

Hence we can employ a generic term, Picot Join to the Right, irrespective of which particular movements a tatter uses to achieve it.

I understand and have tried the folded & twisted picot joins, but continue to avoid them. I get a sense of security & comfort in working it as a normal picot join. 
All I have to do is move the last picot to the left of the current tatting! 
And I consider this easy enough for any beginner to grasp and accomplish. Scroll down if this interests you …

The flowers (rosettes) in Blossoms motifs all require this join. Hence Part 1 shows how to do that last join, continue to completion, and also how I finish off the ends.

Picot Join to the Right - Part 1

( joining last ring to first in a rosette )
Only one step – rotate work to bring joining picot from right to left side!

One-shuttle pattern.

Each ring is (7–5–5–7), joined to previous ring. 7 rings total. 

Ring7 is linked to both Ring6 & Ring1, closing the medallion or circle.

 1. This is the common Picot Join where the joining picot is on the left side of the working element  (Ring7). We pull up a loop of ‘ball’ thread, pass shuttle through it, tension and snug, and continue with the second half stitch or a new double stitch.

Note: 

In fs/bs tatting, we pull a loop down on the frontside and then make the second half stitch.

 2. Here we have reached the point where the last ring (wip) needs to be linked to the first ring.

3. Rotate work on your hand. We do NOT have to take it off our fingers, simply rotate counterclockwise.

Notice how the picot is now on our left! Looks familiar, doesn't it?!

 4. Pull up a loop of ‘ball’ thread, just as in a picot join (as seen in #1).

5. Adjust the tension. Make sure that the core thread slides freely.

Notice how the threads are all on the front of (or above) the motif.

Note : 

If we need the threads to be at the back of the work, use this simple trick by Linda Davies. 

 6. Continue tatting to finish the last segment of this ring.

7. Close the ring. Picot Join to the Right has successfully completed the rosette!

Permit me to continue, to show how I end the motif. Notice there is a tiny loop (like a vsp) at the base of the first ring. I had tatted over the starting tail, leaving a small loop, but did not pull it tight. I left this tiny space for a reason...(I showed it here in more detail along with a pdf). 

UPDATE: This loop is used for the final join and Dale Pomeroy coined the term Shepherd's Crook Join for it.

8. Snip off the shuttle and thread the new tail.

 9. Insert needle through that space or loop.

10. Tug strongly at the old tail to close that gap. This also traps the new tail within.

(I sometimes use my teeth for a strong grip & pull) 

11. Bring the needle back through the space between the 2 rings 

and whip stitch through the back arcs of the last ring.

12. After whip stitching for a few stitches, tug tight and snip both tails close.

As with all techniques, what I have shown here is a viable alternative, but optional.  

We all have our favourites, and this works well for me.

I used a down loop, hence the joins all look like a complete double stitch.

This pictorial was already photographed when I received a ‘distress’ email last week, asking for help on how to proceed with the last chain after it has been joined to the first chain. I will share it in the next post since this is already pretty long.

.... Part 2 in next post 

Related Posts

Part 2

Part 3

Joins in Shuttle Tatting

Part 4 

Demystifying Joins

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What started out as a simple project to understand the numerous joins we come across in tatting, has overwhelmed me. New as well as experienced tatters often ask “How do I make this join?”, “Do I know this join?”. Often, it is a join we know but is named differently. We think we’ve solved one question, learned a particular join, & another pops up! This has caused many bumps in my road of discovery, throwing me out of joint. After working on & off for the last several months, I have finally decided to post the work as a series. This will help me refocus my energies on smaller sections, and will keep the reader interested. It will also give me a chance to add or amend, based on feedback.

JOINS  IN  SHUTTLE  TATTING

IN SEARCH OF COMMON PRINCIPLES

PART – I

I would like to thank each person and resource named, including the many unnamed and unaccredited who have helped develop this beautiful craft/artform. 

A very special thanks to Judith Connors. 

Any error or oversight is solely mine .

Fundamental Principle : Nothing is sacrosanct. Choose what works best for you and the pattern. However, be open-minded. There is no harm in learning new options.

This is not to say that the evolution, history and development of tatting does not matter. It does, and we continue to learn from these, build on these, or create independently. They can, and do, cause duplication, multiplicity of terms, redundancy, overlap. However, nothing may be regarded as obsolete. The following is my attempt to make sense of it all: arrange all the joins in a conceptual framework, join the dots. 

Again, what I write here is not sacrosanct. It is simply my attempt, with the limited resources at my disposal, to clarify my own thoughts. It is not a tutorial, but a collation and annotation of various tutorials and terms (with links/references provided). An image/collage of each join is inserted as a quick visual reference only; for detailed tutorial of each join, refer to footnotes and links provided at the end of each Part. A tabulated chart for a bird’s eye view of the main/common joins is also part of this study. Considering the prolific creativity of our tatting community, I strongly sense that this will remain a work in progress. I invite you to contribute any information to make this more comprehensive & up-to-date.

Limitations :

• This study is largely based on shared online resources & popular terminology. Of the large number of online tutorials, only a few are provided, due to obvious constraints. Any omission is unintentional and regretted.   
• Some of the terms I have used for categorization and description may be arbitrary – best suited or limited to this discussion.
• Some common “threads” have emerged from a study of the various joins. I have tried to encapsulate them into normative rules & general principles. There may be exceptions.
• The study is limited by my own learning & understanding at this point in time.

Abbreviations & Explanations of Terms used :

DS – double stitch, double knot, double hitch, double, lark’s head

hs – half-stitch in a DS

fhs – 1^st half-stitch

shs – 2^nd half-stitch

cap – the horizontal bar over a DS

legs – the two vertical bars under the cap of a DS.

core thread – the thread on which DS are made & slide.

RODS – reverse order double stitch used in directional tatting.

FS/BS – frontside/backside tatting or directional tatting.

RS – reverse stitch, unflipped double stitch, lark’s head, 2^nd half of split ring stitch

SH1 – shuttle 1 .

SH2 – shuttle 2.

SR – split ring

Joins (in alphabetical order) :

CWJ – Catherine Wheel join

LJ – lock join

JSS – Join to smooth side

OTT – over the top join

PJ – picot join

RJ – Reverse Join

S&RJ – slope & roll join

Notes :

• The term ‘join(s)’ is used in the noun form throughout the text. To indicate action, ‘link/linking’ has been used, to distinguish it from the Join itself.
• Almost all joins can be made without a 2^nd shuttle (if working with 1 shuttle & ball) ; it is just that getting the ball to pass through a loop, as required in some joins, is not convenient !
• Throughout the discussion, SH1 is considered to be the core thread over which DS are made. SH2 is the shuttle that forms the stitches in chains hence also called the chain, ball or auxiliary thread. Where the join can be made easily with a ball, it is mentioned. (refer to pic1 below)
• While a join can be made directly between the legs of a DS (as in onion rings, coils and Catherine wheels), for the present purpose, all joins are made through a picot, unless otherwise stated. And this ‘joining picot’ is on a previously tatted ring or chain.
• Unless otherwise indicated, all joins have been started by bringing the loop Up through the joining picot, as seen from the front. Make required adjustments in backside tatting.
• For consistency, I have counted the join as fhs throughout, continuing with shs, wherever applicable.
• Some alternate names that one may come across are added within brackets or at appropriate place.

About Pictures  :   

Pic 1. Explaining the visuals 

• All tatting is accomplished with Anchor Mercer size 20 thread.
• Black thread represents previously worked tatting which has a ‘joining picot’.
• Yellow thread is the SH1 or core thread.
• Aqua Blue thread is the SH2 thread which represents the stitches formed. 
• 3 colours have been used only for visual differentiation & clarity.

********************************

WHAT  IS  A JOIN ?

It is a method to link, bring together or connect two or more elements/pieces and secure them in place. Over 160 years ago, tatting was done with a single shuttle. Motifs were worked individually and then joined together with tiny knots or with a needle and thread to create a fabric. Directions for joining at a picot (PJ) were published in 1851. This was a revolutionary step in the evolution of tatting as one could “integrate the tatting in progress with a piece of tatting previously accomplished” ¹   

Basic Movement :

This requires three simple steps :

1. Pull a loop through the picot or point where linking is required,
2. Pass the shuttle through the loop.
3. Tension and snug.

From this basic movement arise various modifications and adaptations. Hence the plethora of terms and techniques.

Variations in Step 1 :

1a. Pull loop up from back to front (Up join)

1b. Pull loop down from front to back (Down join)

1c. Loop pulled is from SH1 (eg. LJ, S&RJ, RJ)

1d. Loop pulled is from SH2 (eg. CWJ, JSS, LJ, S&RJ, RJ, ball thread joins)

1e. No loop, just threads across an element (eg. Over & Under, Wrap, Alligator, OTT joins)

Principle : Most joins can be made by pulling the loop either up or down. This provides the flexibility needed in directional and 2-colour tatting.

Rule : Thread/shuttle closest to the point of linking is used to make the join.

Variations in Step 2 :

2a. Pass SH1 through loop (eg. PJ, LJ, S&RJ)

2b. Pass SH2 through loop (eg. CWJ, S&RJ variation)

2c. Thread from Other shuttle is encapsulated within (eg. CWJ, RJ,)

2d. Thread from Other shuttle is not encapsulated within (eg. LJ)

Principle : Any, & I stress, entire project can be completed with just TWO joins – the picot join & the lock join, preferably working with two shuttles for a free-sliding core thread throughout. All other joins are a modification of these basic joins for the purpose of beauty and perfection; smoothly curved chains; even-looking and complete stitches; avoiding colour blips in 2-coloured tatting; ease of switching colours; etc.

Rule : Encapsulation of auxiliary thread eliminates the colour ‘blip’.

******************************** 

CATEGORIES

I have tried to divide joins into three categories for better understanding. However, there is still a lot of overlap and variation within a join. Think of it as a Venn Diagram or Olympic Rings where certain characteristics of individual joins can be common.

I.       Above : when the caps of both the joining elements face each other

II.     Across : when one element needs to cross to opposite side

III.  Below : when the caps of both joining elements face in same direction (parallel).

Each type of join discussed below is accompanied by one or more links in the form of original source, tutorial, or description arranged chronologically at the end, along with additional references. This is not an exhaustive list.

I. ABOVE - when the caps of both the joining elements face each other

All these joins are used when we need to link to an element that is above the line of working. In these cases, the chain/ball/auxiliary/SH2 thread is closer to the joining picot while the core thread (SH1) is further away.

I.1 Picot Join (PJ) aka traditional join, regular join, normal join, basic join, up join.

This is the basic of all tatted joins.

• It allows the core thread to slide freely.
• It can be done with single shuttle.
• A bit of vertical thread/leg is visible within the joining picot, & may be counted as a hs.
• It makes a colour blip at the back, when using 2 colours.
• It applies to both rings and chains.
• It is used in Folded Join, ANKARS tatting, Curled Rings.
• It is the most commonly used join when adding beads to tatting.
• When multiple rings/chains are joined to a single long picot, PJ is commonly used.

Rule : Some joins are considered in the stitch count (counted either as one half-stitch or as 1DS). There are tatters who choose not follow this practice.

Pic 2. Picot Join - Up & Down as seen from front & back

Variations

I.1.a  Down Join  aka  downward join

This is a PJ performed in the opposite direction, i.e. pulling the loop down, instead of up through the picot.

• It allows the core thread to slide freely.
• It can be done with single shuttle.
• A barely visible horizontal bar is formed in front. In single colour tatting, this can be followed by shs to mimic a complete DS ².
• It places the colour blip at the back of work.
• It is used in directional (FS/BS or RODS) tatting and, sometimes, 2^nd half of split-ring joining in order to keep the colour ‘blips’ at the back of the work.
• It can be used in the Folded Join.

I.1.b  Joining in a Circle aka joining last ring to first, joining first ring to last 
UPDATE May 23, 2017 :
This category can be termed Picot Join to the Right. See detailed explanation here  
Inward or outward facing rings can come together to form closed shapes or medallions where the last ring needs to be linked back to the first ring. At times, this can cause the joining picot to twist. Following are the ways to accomplish a twist-free join.
Also note that the same applies to a chain, when it has to be linked to the right.

Folded Join (FJ)  aka Twisted Picot Join

This is needed when linking the last ring to the first ring of a circle. It is simply a way of folding the tatting to get better access to the picot, and also prevent it from twisting when ring is closed.

• Basically employs a PJ – either Up or Down join.
• The joining picot is deliberately turned/twisted before pulling loop through it to compensate for the fold. The deliberate twist eases/untwists when the join is complete & ring is closed.
• May take some practice to master it.
• The linking may be made from the back side ³.
• Most tutorials show outward facing rings, some show inward facing rings ⁴.

Avoiding the Folded Join ⁵

The last ring can be linked to the first ring easily without a FJ, in a PJ movement.

• Basically employs a PJ – either Up or Down join.
• It entails a simple reorientation of last ring in relation to first ring before linking.
• Is applicable to both outward & inward facing rings.

UPDATE Sep 2018 : pictorials Part 1 ; Part 2 ; Part3

Pic 3. Avoiding a Folded Join

Riego Join

A slightly different way of achieving the same objective.

• Before starting last ring, required length of thread is cut off & pulled through picots on both sides. Thus the core thread is linked before tatting the last ring. ⁶
• Can be used to complete a circle of closely tatted rings.
• Useful when tatting individual or separate motifs or if one is running out of shuttle thread.
• The last ring is finger-tatted.

I.1.c  Swirl Join ⁷

The name refers to the visual effect created by joining multiple elements together.

• It is a normal PJ
• The join is made at the very end, while tatting the last element.
• It is useful in linking more than 2 elements (usually rings) at a single point, in one motion.
• A single loop in pulled through all the picots simultaneously & shuttle passed through.
• It creates a swirling effect when the picots overlap in the centre. Hence length of picots is important.

  

  Pic 4. Nina Libin's Swirl Join & Wrap Join

I.2  Lark's Head Picot Join (LHPJ)

It is an “invisible join” since it forms a complete stitch within the joining picot. It can be applied to both rings and chains.

• It creates a continuous/smooth/unbroken chain or ring by mimicking a DS.
• The join is counted as 1DS and usually included in the stitch count of segment before the linking occurs.
• It is an extension of the PJ
• The formation can be done in one continuous motion by pulling a single loop through picot & arranging it like a lark’s head before passing SH1 through it. Thus the DS is ‘pre-shaped’ & snugged together in correct order. ⁸
• Alternatively, the formation can be split into 2 motions : each hs is formed separately by pulling a loop through the picot once for fhs & again for shs. Each loop is twisted in a certain direction before passing SH1 through it. Each hs is snugged before starting the next. ⁹
• Useful for smooth visual effect.
• It creates a blipless join when working with 2 colours.
• Can also be used in SR (to be discussed in Part II).  

Pic 5. Lark's Head Picot Join 

To be continued …
UPDATE : Part II - Shuttle 2 to the rescue 

********************************

Footnotes & Tutorials (Part I) :

¹  A Study of Tatted Joins. Thoughts on Joining - The Shuttle Join

² A Study of Tatted Joins (2004) – up, down, shuttle.

The Basic Picot Join – Jennifer Williams (2011)

³ Folded Join by Lisa C Trumble (1992) 

Folded Join or How to Avoid a Twisted Picot by Jon Yusoff (2008)   

Folded Join by Jennifer Williams (2010) 

Twisted Picot Join by Ann (2010).  

⁴ Finishing a motif with a folded join by Heather Tatter (2011) 

⁵Joining the last ring to the first. Method 2 - Jennifer Williams 2010 (outward facing rings)

Tatting Tip: Avoiding the Folded Join by Heather Tatter 2011 (inward facing rings)

Joining First Ring to Last Ring Jane Eborall 2012  (outward facing rings)
Outward facing rings join Jackie Reynolds

⁶ Lesson 113 video by Karen Cabrera  

The movement is similar to interlocked rings where instead of posting shuttle through previous ring, we are posting cut thread through joining picots.

⁷ Swirl Join by Nina Libin (2012)  

⁸ Lark’s Head Picot Join by Lily Morales (2003) 

⁹ LHPJ the Krystledawne way by Krystle Pyette (2012)

For a collection of great tutorials on a range of joins, please visit :

Georgia Seitz Online Resources

Jennifer Williams Techniques 

Jane Eborall Tips and Techniques  

Karen Cabrera videos  

Additional reference : Elgiva Nicholl’s Tatting :Technique and History (Dover) 1962   

Motif #25 of III for 25 Motif Challenge