Showing posts with label swirl join. Show all posts
Showing posts with label swirl join. Show all posts

Sunday, 28 October 2018

school photo day

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tatted butterflies, square and oval doily



In my previous post I uploaded a school photo day (of all the Coloured Cluny butterflies). But guess what, one of them was too knotty or too shy to face the camera! Found it only when it peeped out from under the looms! 
So here’s a special group photo in celebration, this time with an old teacher standing guard. 
Can you spot which one was missing? (answer at end of post)

A group of butterflies is called a “flutter”, so ...

Question 1 : What should a collective or group of tatters be called ????

This large butterfly is the Butterfly Medallion No. 169 from a 1916 Corticelli booklet. 
I found the pattern here. I followed the rewritten pattern, but some counts are missing.
I’d intended to work it in size 40 white for it’s delicate lacy effect. But with so many cuts and ties, what's the harm in colouring it up to highlight the floral wings?! 

 These are the individual pieces, to be joined later with a pretty trim around each of the ‘florets’. I had to add stitches to floret chains to accomodate the decorative picots.
Re-tatted the body and made twisted (floating) picots this time.

I continued but have already unravelled & re-tatted a number of times. 
With so much back and forth, I am no longer enjoying it. 
So did it get mutilated or transformed? 
To solve that mystery, stop by tomorrow – you may be in for a surprise!

Sparkle Fusion is Usha’s new medallion 
fusing together the dot picot string and variable treble stitches. 
I had the pleasure of test tatting it - her swirl join variation. Worked in Anchor size 20. 
A variable tds creates a nice little peak or scallop on the outer edge of the stitch! 

Scrappy Doily after 5 rounds 
In Anchor Size 20, it is now 4” x 3¼” – I got my oval !!! 
All those suggestions have helped. Too many tatters, unlike too many cooks, did Not spoil ;-P 

Placed on the grid to confirm. 
Click here for earlier musings & notes. 


The truant butterfly !


Question 2 : Should this Coloured Cluny Butterfly be called Ready to Fly butterfly?
One of the names has 2 votes out of 3 (not saying which!), but what’s your choice?

Eager to read your answers ....
flutter by with tatting , always

Friday, 3 November 2017

not enough?

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I’m pretty much engrossed in some other stuff but here’s a quick peek into what I did last week.

Clover  Wreath  Mats
(DIP - design in progress)

This is the one with 3 strands of embroidery thread I shared here. I’ve stopped here and will decide what to do with it later.... 

Instead I started one in Anchor size 20 (thicker than Lizbeth 20) in 2 colours. I wanted to try a swirl join in the center of each medallion but kept forgetting. So finally I remembered while tatting the 3rd motif and used it for the center.
What do you think? The swirl seems to round up the motif, right?

I was still too focused on the original 2-colour version that demarcated the inner clover ‘flower’ surrounded by arching ‘stems with leaves’. But when tessellated, these leaves formed another small 6-petal floret which gets lost in 2 colours because the eye is drawn to the yellow flower. 

Time to try it in single colour - this time in Anchor size 40. Also, picots on the chains seemed to add some clutter, so out with them! I didn’t want to change the chain stitches, though – they arch beautifully to form a larger petal outline, don’t they?!
This one has swirl joins in all motifs.

I love how little changes go a long way in altering one’s focus. 
Colour, texture (swirl join), clean chains (picot-free) are the 3 tweaks made in this 2nd version.

Which one of these do you prefer and why ?

Hexagon is my favourite shape, and especially so for tessellation – so many possibilities ! Reminds me of quilting. One can go 'straight' or go round, with numerous in-betweens.

3 hexagons in each version for a quick comparison -
Each medallion/motif tats up pretty quickly – one a day without stretching oneself. But I wanted to experiment with an edging. I’ve sketched a few simple ones trying to outline the chain arches and even started tatting one idea. But this project is stalled for the present. Any ideas are welcome.

And before signing off, please do check the lovely earrings Carollyn made using the poinsettia  version !!! I was thrilled to see them and the model too :-)

happy tatting always J
Related Posts -

Sunday, 16 April 2017

back to tatting

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tatted heart, bookmark & kite

I hadn’t been doing much tatting for the past several days, trying to stay focused on completing all the presentations, diagrams and pdfs for the spring garland (hoo boy, it takes way too much time!!!). But the last few days were a bit better. I slowly got back into the tatting mojo and some of the UFOs are turning into WIPs ! While there are a couple of exciting things I cannot show yet, here are a few I can…

Heart for Kay
Nina Libin
The butterfly called out to me ! Just like in Irene Woo’s Heart of the Butterfly. Wish I could've taken a combo pic of the two, except that it has been gifted & happily received. 
This one, too, is tatted in 3 strands of embroidery thread, but I worked the heart in opposite direction to that given in the diagram. If I’d followed the diagrammed sequence, my butterfly would’ve had backside rings.

The 8-ring formation
Here I didn’t use any SLT. Instead I tatted the outer (thrown) ring first, then the inner ring, and continued with the chain. It seems to hold up fine even without any blocking.
This is a pretty pattern and quick to tat up. The pattern, to be shared with OTC tomorrow, can be downloaded here. It is scheduled to be shared with the Online Tatting Class tomorrow. 

UPDATE (Apr 18, 2017): see how I used this lovely heart here .

Chinese Coin Bookmark
Jon Yusoff
This free pattern has been with me for ages, ever since I found this teeming tatting world online. Seeing Fox’s work recently, inspired me to finally take it up. What I can do now, I couldn't have done 4 years back, so the delay was good ;-)
After the first few repeats, I felt bored with the single colour (I should’ve chosen something brighter!). More so because I felt I could've tatted alternate halves, then used a different colour to fill in the missing halves - like 2 sinusoidal waves. 
But now the body is happily completed and am working a tail from part of the pattern itself. No pics yet. The first half took a while to get used to, but the return was a breeze. And I'm pretty satisfied with the look.


Kite with Cluny Tail
Mimi Dillman
I started this cute kite, also from the Online Tatting Class, in March, intending it as a bookmark. Now I have some more ideas that need working out. Should I use this as a charm and combine 4 motifs to create a larger diamond for the main body? Decisions !!! Will take it up again after I finish the coin bookmark.  


Many many thanks to all the talented designers for sharing their work :-)


Sunday, 14 August 2016

a mixed dream

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It wasn’t intentional, but a lucky coincidence – the symbolic resemblance to our flag colours ! We are celebrating the 70th Independence Day on 15th & these are the colours I see all around (with the white, of course).
Floral Fantasy Doily

Kathleen shared a few tatted rounds (& pattern) of this doily but a complete sketch on Craftree. It was still a work in progress, including pattern-writing, but two features called out to me instantly & I began tatting along …So far she has shared stitch count for 6 out of the 9 rounds.
Following the name & the pattern, I wanted this to be a bit colourful. In order to increase my colour choices, I have tatted this in a combination of size 40 Anchor crochet cotton (Art 4054) & 2 strands of Anchor embroidery thread (Art 4625).
Many rounds can be done with single shuttle & ball & while I used 2 shuttles for the most part, I have mentioned which rounds can be tatted with ball & shuttle.
Only Rnds 1&2 were blocked before taking pics. All subsequent rounds are unblocked &/or un-ironed/unpressed … will do it after completion, for the final presentation.

Round 1 – 1½”
Rings : 4054-020 ; Chains : 4625-0314 (2 strands)
Techniques: Swirl Join, down join, directional tatting, picot gauge 3/8" for the long picots, last ring SCMR, ball & shuttle.
Actually a swirl join would hold them all together, since it is a proper join. But with these very very long picots & fine thread, it became extremely difficult for me to manage. Hence, after very many failed attempts, I started the last ring as a SCMR; then cut off a length, pulled the end through all the picots, and completed the ring. This can be seen in the more open picot towards the bottom right in later pics.
TIP : I should've taken the thread back through all the picots again to secure them in the center ! Now, however, I am planning on weaving the picots after completing the doily, as in the old vintage patterns, An opportunity to try it out :-)


Round 2 –  < 2”
CTM or shuttle & ball : 4054-0293.
Techniques : lock join, reverse join, RODS. Ball & shuttle CTM.
I loved this overlap of the chain & chose a light colour to highlight it.
TIP : Probably better to start with the ring at the LJ position. Now I had to cut off shuttle thread in the end and pull it through to the front for overlapping, before completing the last segment.

Round 3 – ~ 3”
Rings : 4625-0204 ; chains – 4625-0879 . 2 strands each
Techniques : directional tatting, long picots, down join, ball & shuttle.
    


Round 4 – 3⅜” 
Rings & Chains : 4625-254. 2 strands each
Techniques : directional tatting, long picots, down join, split rings, 2 shuttles.

Round 5 – 4”
Rings : 4625-314 ; Chains : 4625-0359. 2 strands each
Techniques: directional tatting, long picots (for frayed picots later on), down join, lock join, 2 shuttles (ball & shuttle possible), SCMR to use up ends.
Although the pattern did not call for this profusion of picots, I visualized these as flowers & have chosen long picots for a reason. Yes, you guessed it, I want to convert them to Frayed Picots !
After a few repeats I noticed that my fs/bs tatting was ‘wrong’ & I continued in correct sequence, which led to an interesting observation while joining these flowers ….
TIP : Using a down join to connect the flowers to previous rounds makes the central picots lift up to the front of the work !!!! (compare with the 2 bottom right flowers in the 6th round pics) are not really visible, but one can get rid of them by tatting the rings RODS.
It is cumbersome & time-consuming to separate the strands of embroidery thread. To make full use of the thread in tatting, I used SCMR for many of the rings, thus using up the last lengths of thread. I had first used this in my Wiosna last year (lengthening the functionality of thread & SCMR instead of normal ring).


Round 6 – 4¾”
Rings : 4054-229 ; Chains : 4625-0204. 2 strands
Techniques: directional tatting, down join, ball & shuttle possible.
This is a very quick round & I love the overlap of rings at the base of the scallops.
 
Colours are fun to work with, but it takes me so much time to choose them :-(  As you can see, I attempted a few combos but snipped them off, ending with a repeat of earlier round colours.
Not sure whether I’ve lost the colour plot here, but these were chosen keeping in mind the next round & it’s colours …. 

Kathleen is still in the process of developing & writing this pattern & will be sharing it in a proper format soon. I will update accordingly.

happy tatting :-)





Friday, 4 March 2016

Demystifying Joins

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What started out as a simple project to understand the numerous joins we come across in tatting, has overwhelmed me. New as well as experienced tatters often ask “How do I make this join?”, “Do I know this join?”. Often, it is a join we know but is named differently. We think we’ve solved one question, learned a particular join, & another pops up! This has caused many bumps in my road of discovery, throwing me out of joint. After working on & off for the last several months, I have finally decided to post the work as a series. This will help me refocus my energies on smaller sections, and will keep the reader interested. It will also give me a chance to add or amend, based on feedback.


JOINS  IN  SHUTTLE  TATTING
IN SEARCH OF COMMON PRINCIPLES
PART – I

I would like to thank each person and resource named, including the many unnamed and unaccredited who have helped develop this beautiful craft/artform. 
A very special thanks to Judith Connors. 
Any error or oversight is solely mine .

Fundamental Principle : Nothing is sacrosanct. Choose what works best for you and the pattern. However, be open-minded. There is no harm in learning new options.

This is not to say that the evolution, history and development of tatting does not matter. It does, and we continue to learn from these, build on these, or create independently. They can, and do, cause duplication, multiplicity of terms, redundancy, overlap. However, nothing may be regarded as obsolete. The following is my attempt to make sense of it all: arrange all the joins in a conceptual framework, join the dots

Again, what I write here is not sacrosanct. It is simply my attempt, with the limited resources at my disposal, to clarify my own thoughts. It is not a tutorial, but a collation and annotation of various tutorials and terms (with links/references provided). An image/collage of each join is inserted as a quick visual reference only; for detailed tutorial of each join, refer to footnotes and links provided at the end of each Part. A tabulated chart for a bird’s eye view of the main/common joins is also part of this study. Considering the prolific creativity of our tatting community, I strongly sense that this will remain a work in progress. I invite you to contribute any information to make this more comprehensive & up-to-date.

Limitations :
  • This study is largely based on shared online resources & popular terminology. Of the large number of online tutorials, only a few are provided, due to obvious constraints. Any omission is unintentional and regretted.   
  • Some of the terms I have used for categorization and description may be arbitrary – best suited or limited to this discussion.
  • Some common “threads” have emerged from a study of the various joins. I have tried to encapsulate them into normative rules & general principles. There may be exceptions.
  • The study is limited by my own learning & understanding at this point in time.

Abbreviations & Explanations of Terms used :
DS – double stitch, double knot, double hitch, double, lark’s head
hs – half-stitch in a DS
fhs – 1st half-stitch
shs – 2nd half-stitch
cap – the horizontal bar over a DS
legs – the two vertical bars under the cap of a DS.
core thread – the thread on which DS are made & slide.
RODS – reverse order double stitch used in directional tatting.
FS/BS – frontside/backside tatting or directional tatting.
RS – reverse stitch, unflipped double stitch, lark’s head, 2nd half of split ring stitch
SH1 – shuttle 1 .
SH2 – shuttle 2.
SR – split ring
Joins (in alphabetical order) :
CWJ – Catherine Wheel join
LJ – lock join
JSS – Join to smooth side
OTT – over the top join
PJ – picot join
RJ – Reverse Join
S&RJ – slope & roll join

Notes :
  • The term ‘join(s)’ is used in the noun form throughout the text. To indicate action, ‘link/linking’ has been used, to distinguish it from the Join itself.
  • Almost all joins can be made without a 2nd shuttle (if working with 1 shuttle & ball) ; it is just that getting the ball to pass through a loop, as required in some joins, is not convenient !
  • Throughout the discussion, SH1 is considered to be the core thread over which DS are made. SH2 is the shuttle that forms the stitches in chains hence also called the chain, ball or auxiliary thread. Where the join can be made easily with a ball, it is mentioned. (refer to pic1 below)
  • While a join can be made directly between the legs of a DS (as in onion rings, coils and Catherine wheels), for the present purpose, all joins are made through a picot, unless otherwise stated. And this ‘joining picot’ is on a previously tatted ring or chain.
  • Unless otherwise indicated, all joins have been started by bringing the loop Up through the joining picot, as seen from the front. Make required adjustments in backside tatting.
  • For consistency, I have counted the join as fhs throughout, continuing with shs, wherever applicable.
  • Some alternate names that one may come across are added within brackets or at appropriate place.
About Pictures  :   
Pic 1. Explaining the visuals 
  • All tatting is accomplished with Anchor Mercer size 20 thread.
  • Black thread represents previously worked tatting which has a ‘joining picot’.
  • Yellow thread is the SH1 or core thread.
  • Aqua Blue thread is the SH2 thread which represents the stitches formed. 
  • 3 colours have been used only for visual differentiation & clarity.
********************************
WHAT  IS  A JOIN ?
It is a method to link, bring together or connect two or more elements/pieces and secure them in place. Over 160 years ago, tatting was done with a single shuttle. Motifs were worked individually and then joined together with tiny knots or with a needle and thread to create a fabric. Directions for joining at a picot (PJ) were published in 1851. This was a revolutionary step in the evolution of tatting as one could “integrate the tatting in progress with a piece of tatting previously accomplished” 1   

Basic Movement :
This requires three simple steps :
  1. Pull a loop through the picot or point where linking is required,
  2. Pass the shuttle through the loop.
  3. Tension and snug.
From this basic movement arise various modifications and adaptations. Hence the plethora of terms and techniques.

Variations in Step 1 :
1a. Pull loop up from back to front (Up join)
1b. Pull loop down from front to back (Down join)
1c. Loop pulled is from SH1 (eg. LJ, S&RJ, RJ)
1d. Loop pulled is from SH2 (eg. CWJ, JSS, LJ, S&RJ, RJ, ball thread joins)
1e. No loop, just threads across an element (eg. Over & Under, Wrap, Alligator, OTT joins)

Principle : Most joins can be made by pulling the loop either up or down. This provides the flexibility needed in directional and 2-colour tatting.
Rule : Thread/shuttle closest to the point of linking is used to make the join.

Variations in Step 2 :
2a. Pass SH1 through loop (eg. PJ, LJ, S&RJ)
2b. Pass SH2 through loop (eg. CWJ, S&RJ variation)
2c. Thread from Other shuttle is encapsulated within (eg. CWJ, RJ,)
2d. Thread from Other shuttle is not encapsulated within (eg. LJ)

Principle : Any, & I stress, entire project can be completed with just TWO joins – the picot join & the lock join, preferably working with two shuttles for a free-sliding core thread throughout. All other joins are a modification of these basic joins for the purpose of beauty and perfection; smoothly curved chains; even-looking and complete stitches; avoiding colour blips in 2-coloured tatting; ease of switching colours; etc.
Rule : Encapsulation of auxiliary thread eliminates the colour ‘blip’.

******************************** 

CATEGORIES
I have tried to divide joins into three categories for better understanding. However, there is still a lot of overlap and variation within a join. Think of it as a Venn Diagram or Olympic Rings where certain characteristics of individual joins can be common.

I.       Above : when the caps of both the joining elements face each other
II.     Across : when one element needs to cross to opposite side
III.  Below : when the caps of both joining elements face in same direction (parallel).

Each type of join discussed below is accompanied by one or more links in the form of original source, tutorial, or description arranged chronologically at the end, along with additional references. This is not an exhaustive list.

I. ABOVE - when the caps of both the joining elements face each other
All these joins are used when we need to link to an element that is above the line of working. In these cases, the chain/ball/auxiliary/SH2 thread is closer to the joining picot while the core thread (SH1) is further away.

I.1 Picot Join (PJ) aka traditional join, regular join, normal join, basic join, up join.
This is the basic of all tatted joins.
  • It allows the core thread to slide freely.
  • It can be done with single shuttle.
  • A bit of vertical thread/leg is visible within the joining picot, & may be counted as a hs.
  • It makes a colour blip at the back, when using 2 colours.
  • It applies to both rings and chains.
  • It is used in Folded Join, ANKARS tatting, Curled Rings.
  • It is the most commonly used join when adding beads to tatting.
  • When multiple rings/chains are joined to a single long picot, PJ is commonly used.
Rule : Some joins are considered in the stitch count (counted either as one half-stitch or as 1DS). There are tatters who choose not follow this practice.
Pic 2. Picot Join - Up & Down as seen from front & back
Variations
I.1.a  Down Join  aka  downward join
This is a PJ performed in the opposite direction, i.e. pulling the loop down, instead of up through the picot.
  • It allows the core thread to slide freely.
  • It can be done with single shuttle.
  • A barely visible horizontal bar is formed in front. In single colour tatting, this can be followed by shs to mimic a complete DS 2.
  • It places the colour blip at the back of work.
  • It is used in directional (FS/BS or RODS) tatting and, sometimes, 2nd half of split-ring joining in order to keep the colour ‘blips’ at the back of the work.
  • It can be used in the Folded Join.

I.1.b  Joining in a Circle aka joining last ring to first, joining first ring to last 
UPDATE May 23, 2017 :
This category can be termed Picot Join to the Right. See detailed explanation here  
Inward or outward facing rings can come together to form closed shapes or medallions where the last ring needs to be linked back to the first ring. At times, this can cause the joining picot to twist. Following are the ways to accomplish a twist-free join.
Also note that the same applies to a chain, when it has to be linked to the right.

Folded Join (FJ)  aka Twisted Picot Join
This is needed when linking the last ring to the first ring of a circle. It is simply a way of folding the tatting to get better access to the picot, and also prevent it from twisting when ring is closed.
  • Basically employs a PJ – either Up or Down join.
  • The joining picot is deliberately turned/twisted before pulling loop through it to compensate for the fold. The deliberate twist eases/untwists when the join is complete & ring is closed.
  • May take some practice to master it.
  • The linking may be made from the back side 3.
  • Most tutorials show outward facing rings, some show inward facing rings 4.
Avoiding the Folded Join 5
The last ring can be linked to the first ring easily without a FJ, in a PJ movement.
  • Basically employs a PJ – either Up or Down join.
  • It entails a simple reorientation of last ring in relation to first ring before linking.
  • Is applicable to both outward & inward facing rings.
UPDATE Sep 2018 : pictorials Part 1 ; Part 2 ; Part3
Pic 3. Avoiding a Folded Join
Riego Join
A slightly different way of achieving the same objective.
  • Before starting last ring, required length of thread is cut off & pulled through picots on both sides. Thus the core thread is linked before tatting the last ring. 6
  • Can be used to complete a circle of closely tatted rings.
  • Useful when tatting individual or separate motifs or if one is running out of shuttle thread.
  • The last ring is finger-tatted.
I.1.c  Swirl Join 7
The name refers to the visual effect created by joining multiple elements together.
  • It is a normal PJ
  • The join is made at the very end, while tatting the last element.
  • It is useful in linking more than 2 elements (usually rings) at a single point, in one motion.
  • A single loop in pulled through all the picots simultaneously & shuttle passed through.
  • It creates a swirling effect when the picots overlap in the centre. Hence length of picots is important.
    Pic 4. Nina Libin's Swirl Join & Wrap Join
I.2  Lark's Head Picot Join (LHPJ)
It is an “invisible join” since it forms a complete stitch within the joining picot. It can be applied to both rings and chains.
  • It creates a continuous/smooth/unbroken chain or ring by mimicking a DS.
  • The join is counted as 1DS and usually included in the stitch count of segment before the linking occurs.
  • It is an extension of the PJ
  • The formation can be done in one continuous motion by pulling a single loop through picot & arranging it like a lark’s head before passing SH1 through it. Thus the DS is ‘pre-shaped’ & snugged together in correct order. 8
  • Alternatively, the formation can be split into 2 motions : each hs is formed separately by pulling a loop through the picot once for fhs & again for shs. Each loop is twisted in a certain direction before passing SH1 through it. Each hs is snugged before starting the next. 9
  • Useful for smooth visual effect.
  • It creates a blipless join when working with 2 colours.
  • Can also be used in SR (to be discussed in Part II).  

Pic 5. Lark's Head Picot Join 


To be continued …
UPDATE : Part II - Shuttle 2 to the rescue 

********************************
Footnotes & Tutorials (Part I) :
2 A Study of Tatted Joins (2004) – up, down, shuttle.
The Basic Picot Join – Jennifer Williams (2011)
3 Folded Join by Lisa C Trumble (1992) 
Folded Join by Jennifer Williams (2010) 
Twisted Picot Join by Ann (2010).  
4 Finishing a motif with a folded join by Heather Tatter (2011) 
5Joining the last ring to the first. Method 2 - Jennifer Williams 2010 (outward facing rings)
Tatting Tip: Avoiding the Folded Join by Heather Tatter 2011 (inward facing rings)
Joining First Ring to Last Ring Jane Eborall 2012  (outward facing rings)
Outward facing rings join Jackie Reynolds
6 Lesson 113 video by Karen Cabrera  
The movement is similar to interlocked rings where instead of posting shuttle through previous ring, we are posting cut thread through joining picots.
7 Swirl Join by Nina Libin (2012)  
8 Lark’s Head Picot Join by Lily Morales (2003) 
9 LHPJ the Krystledawne way by Krystle Pyette (2012)


For a collection of great tutorials on a range of joins, please visit :
Additional reference : Elgiva Nicholl’s Tatting :Technique and History (Dover) 1962   


Motif #25 of III for 25 Motif Challenge