full of options tatting

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 In our endeavour since July 2025 to update patterns in our Endrucks 1920 Project collection, some PDFs posed a dilemma. For instance whether to leave the E1 shamrock and it's butterfly offshoot in the same PDF or to separate them. A survey in our FB group voted overwhelmingly in favour of the former. We took the opportunity to include a stepwise pictorial, add some missing portions, as well as options to work certain parts through some mini-pictorials.

E1 Happy Hands Shamrock and Butterfly by Diana Howe and Muskaan : 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_D5xY68NyfsKMB4LDr0GUv-WYC0VCba6/view (updated pattern link)

Following are some notable features -

This Way or Tat? (TWoT Notes): This is one of those patterns where many paths and options are possible.  Diana had diagrammed both clockwise and counterclockwise pathways (my E1 Happy Hands Heart from which it was derived could also be worked either way), and my working of the shamrock followed a third. Since it is a two shuttle pattern, just follow the shuttle which is in the right position, but adjust the instructions accordingly.  

I used contrasting colours in size 10 knitting cotton for the pictorial to clearly indicate which shuttle is in use.

Dimpled Yorkie: Since the heart ring is fairly large, it is a good idea to apply the two-step closure option as in the dimpled yorkie. Notice the bare thread on the left, just before the ring starts? It is part of the false picot ....

False Picot: Since there will be two back and forth chains at the base of the heart, a false picot is needed to prevent overcrowding. And the bare threads need to be long enough to accommodate them.

False Picot v/s Mock Picot): I distinguish between a false picot and a mock picot. The former is just bare thread left before and/or after an element to simulate a picot. The latter usually uses an overhand tie, a lock stitch, or a paperclip/spacer to make the picot. False picot is a much more vintage term than a mock picot, often used interchangeably, and the construction is left to the discretion of the tatter. However one should be aware of this since it may affect which of the two shuttles you will be using to continue. Does it coincide with what the designer intended? If not, the tatter will need to adapt accordingly.

Lock Join and Under-Over Join (U-OJ) aka Alligator Join: During my early trials with the original E1 pattern, I finally settled on making a lock join through the false picot in order to keep the chain in place. This was followed by ensuring that the two threads/shuttles were on either side of the picot (one above and one under).  

However the lock join can be eliminated completely and only the U-OJ can be used if so desired. And which thread you wish to keep above and which under is entirely up to the tatter. Just make sure to adjust instructions accordingly.

The first heart motif is complete in the above image. 

Armadillo join: While in the above model we went with the original consecutive joins (picot join on top and lock join below), this can be substituted with the armadillo join as explained in my previous post. https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/12/armadillo-join.html . 

Over The Top Join (OTT): This is an adaptation of the U-O join when the space is too small for a shuttle to pass under (or one forgets to position the shuttles ahead of the final chain segment in the pattern). Above image shows Ninetta working it in the 2nd or 3rd repeat.

 

Ninetta's E1 shamrock and butterfly versions! Can't thank her enough for all her enthusiastic and prompt support in so many unexpected ways!

Stem : Diana recommended the BDS or padded chain for a stem. However, any decorative chain or cord can be applied such as the lock chain in above model, a pearl tatted chain, etc. 

Never let it be said that tatting is just rings and chains and picots, LOL.

We will soon be releasing the EP Tutorials document which endeavours to list all tatting techniques, effects, and terms used in the Endrucks patterns - original, reworked, and derived. Until then you can find tutorial links in the Tatting Resources tab above (https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/tatting-resources.html).

Please give credit to the designer and pattern, and use the tag #Endrucks1920Project when you post your version of the pattern.

bead tatting

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Over the past couple of years I have approached many experienced and expert or domain tatters for some explanation or confirmation and feedback, or even to ask for a pic of their work ... all in the cause of the book/glossary. Not only have I learned a lot, but everybody has been very cooperative!

Late last year I had approached Nina Libin regarding her BEANILe tatting and if she would share a pic of one of her models for the book (I didn't like any of the beaded models I had tatted till then). Despite her ailment, she willingly obliged with both an explanation and a pic. However, she was adamant on one point - do NOT call it Beanile or BEANILe lace! Shocked, I asked her why and she said it was merely her 'arrogance' for wanting her name associated with the term. She told me in no uncertain terms to call it Bead Tatting instead. 

Bead Tatting (formerly known as Beanile lace) is tatted lace decorated with lots of beads that are incorporated during the tatting process itself. Earlier the beads used to be strung on the ball thread so that they would embellish the picots. Nina was instrumental in stringing the beads in the shuttle thread as well, in order to position them in beautiful arrangements. 

I am uncertain about beads being used in single shuttle tatting before the introduction of chains (or 2nd thread). Did they use beads to cover bare thread between rings? Do you have any idea?

Nina differentiated this from Beaded Tatting, where beads are sewn into finished lace, as in ANKARS. 

Tatting with Beads is another common term. This would mean that beads are used in lace either during tatting, pre-strung or free, or stitched in later .... any which way(s). Thus this term encompasses both Bead and Beaded tatting and any other method (for instance pinning down beads on a foam ornament covered with tatted lace).

It would be great if you leave a comment with  your thoughts on the matter or any other input you may have. 

Now despite what Nina says and wishes, it will be difficult to erase the term Beanile lace from our tatting lexicon! And the terms above are not airtight categories! We all use them interchangeably.

Some of my recent bead tatting samples ... all are my own designs applied in different situations or techniques. See if you can guess them!  Since these are all prototypes, mostly tatted on the go, there are minor errors or untidiness. 

1 - Beads On / Over Picot

UPDATE (June2025): Fan Palm Motif/Pendant pattern - https://drive.google.com/file/d/16amEUnVT7ERSySRJqbMsj0af0Xu_MFsP/view

2

3

4

5 - 4-shuttle Interwoven SR braid Barbara Arango's variation -

UPDATE (July 2025): Muskaan's Interwoven Beaded Bracelet pattern.

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/07/interwoven-beaded-bracelet.html

At a future date I will try to share more details about each model, and a pattern wherever possible. At present I'm just relieved to write this post which has been pending for so long.

I have tried to keep in touch with Nina, as she requested, sending out an email every 4 to 6 weeks. However, I haven't heard back from her for several months now. Sending her my best wishes for good, manageable health. 

Read her interview here - http://www.beadsky.com/nina_libin.php

Many many thanks to Nina Libin for her continued help and support through the past 10 years and the inspiration her work continues to provide ! 

rosettes

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 In tatting, we often come across different names for the same technique/effect and the same name for different techniques! (jot it down to various reasons - historical, linguistic, ignorance, non-standardization, ....).  One example of the latter is Rosette. This historical term refers to at least three different styles as evident in the collage below!

Our newest game in the Endrucks 1920 Project FB group involves the third motif and it seemed a good opportunity to address this situation and refresh my knowledge.

They are arranged along evolutionary lines -

1. Single ring with picots aka central ring. Tatted with a single thread. This was a common starting medallion in numerous antique patterns, and the thread was tied and cut after each! Now, we climb out with a mock picot or if possible, we work it as a thrown ring for continuous tatting.

2. Outward facing rings, often called a daisy or flower. Again, tatted with a single thread and the rings are joined to each other to create beautiful medallions. It helps that joining on the go was discovered. The number of rings can determine the shape and size.

Rosace is a term used by several non-English speaking tatters, to address this formation. eg. Maria Papia's earrings (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbqLn8xTaGU) and Lilas Lace's pictorial of Edwige Renaudin's Double Rosace (https://lilas-lace.fr/blog/2014/02/28/diy-a-double-rosace-diy-une-rosade-a-double-rangee-danneaux/)

3. Concentric chains around a central ring. Each chain segment is joined to the picot below from the previous round. The entire medallion is worked continuously, but requires two threads. Obviously this came into existence after the discovery of tatted chains.

In the sample above, the consecutive chain rounds are niched closely into a compact circle - like a dartboard. However, if the chains are made slightly longer, with more of an arch on each chain, it gives the appearance of a flower - a Rose or wild rose as Sharon Briggs calls it (https://sharonstattedlace.blogspot.com/2008/05/tatting-wild-rose.html).

This is all I have. Have you encountered the term for another formation? Please do share.

My main references for the above, besides online resources already listed (including Craftree), are - Elgiva Nicholls' 'Tatting: Technique & History' 1984, and Judith Connors' 'An Illustrated Dictionary of Tatting'. And all three tatted samples above are from derivatives of Endrucks' (1920) patterns 42, 20, and 37.

UPDATE: (9th Oct 2023) - Perhaps I should've spoken about the origin of the word rosette, etc. But here's a comment by Stéphanie Mc (Tattimic) on my FB post and quoted here ---

I'm pretty sure it comes from French.
In French, the word "rosette" can take about 10 different meanings. It usually refers to something circular with a circle in the middle, but not necessarily.
Also, when the suffix "-ette" is added to a noun - let's say "rose", haha-, it refers to a smaller version of that noun. So a "rosette" is supposed to mean "a small rose", at least in some interpretation of the word, of course.

 Well, she is absolutely right! 

My sincerest thanks to all mentioned!

picot join to the right part 3

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(concluding part)
Common Threads - SET VII : the 'right' picot join 

Picot Join to the Right – Part 3
Terminology & Range

fig 1 - projects with the 'right' picot join

fig 2 - rosette

As beginners some of our first shuttle-only flowers and butterflies have free rings – a cluster of closely tatted outward facing rings. The next stage is when the adjacent petals are linked through picots and we learn the picot join. Easy - the joining picot is to the left of current work. And then comes the last petal/ring (7^th ring in fig2) and we have to join it to the first ring. Huh! How to link it to the first petal?! How to reach through that picot without ending up with a twist or with a locked/snagged core thread?

There are many ways, and just as many terms, 
but the core principle/factor remains the same –

the linking picot is to the right of the element being worked.

fig 3 - more projects with picot join to the right

A great deal of tatted lace returns to the starting point before tying and cutting ends or climbing out to the next level. It could be a motif, medallion, doily, or even edgings on a fabric. Sometimes this linking back is through a picot on the first element(s).  Google any of the bold terms for an array of tutorials (add ‘tatting’ to the term). Some resources are listed here.

Last to First Join refers to this aspect – the last element linked back to the first element through a picot. It can be between 2 rings, 2 chains or a ring and chain.

Most frequently we apply this linkage to close a medallion in a circle.

Joining in a circle/in the round is another term for this final linkage arising from traditional medallions before the invention of the tatted chain. Medallions made of a cluster of linked outward facing rings were commonly called a rosette or flower (fig2). Hence Mary Konior also called it the Rosette Join.

As frequently mentioned, it is not just difficult to reach that joining picot, but there is a tendency for it to twist after linkage has been made. The following terms are based on the movement required to make that linkage.

Twisted picot join – where the picot is pre-twisted before pulling a loop through it for linkage, thus pre-empting or neutralizing the twist when completed.

Folded Join – where the work is folded in such a way as to reach that ‘pesky’ picot.

Avoiding the Folded Join – a simple reorientation or rotation of work results in avoiding any folding or twisting by bringing the linking picot to the left of work.

Riego Join is yet another term (coined by Teri Dusenbury) referring to the same join found in Mlle Riego’s books dating back to the 2^nd half of 19^th century. A long tail is cut, slipped through the picots, and the last ring is finger-tatted. Thus the linkage is made Before the ring is tatted.

The above list seems to suggest a fairly small range where this join to the right comes into play.

Not true! The following tatted models show us numerous circumstances where we have used the ‘right’ picot join. 
And to make it playful, try identifying that join to the right in each medallion or motif (click on image for larger view or on blue link for respective post). 

          Does it have to be a circle?

 

Let us not take the ‘circle/round’ term too literally. It largely refers to closing/linking back to the start, not the shape. Shape is determined by the elements.(eg. the triangle in fig1. The 5-ringed flowers in this bouquet give a definite pentagonal outline. The 4 rings in the center of the cross clearly form a square or diamond, acting as a scaffolding. (figs 4 & 5)

          Only single or a cluster of rings?
Rosettes have very closely placed single rings. However, a larger, more open medallion, or an edging, when joined back on itself, may need the same join. 

 

And not just single rings, but a cluster of 2 or more rings can  be joined back. eg. the pair of rings in Butterfly Squares/Edging (fig6) or the last ring in a clover or trefoil (fig7)

          Does the join come into play only with outward facing rings?

Not at all, though most resources tend to focus on rosettes. The following examples have inward facing rings, but need to join the last ring to the first through the picot that is on the right of current work (fig8). 

 

In the Clover Wreath Poinsettia there are inward facing clovers. Last 2 rings need to be joined to the first 2 rings. But the last green ring on the final chain is also linked in same manner! (fig9)

Not just single, but multiple rings can need the join! And not just one but more linking picots within the same element may be involved.

 

The vintage edging with bare thread space has both inward and outward facing rings and since it is closed, the starting rings were on the right of the final rings (fig10). In the Quatrefoil medallions the number of inner rings reflect the overall shape of the polygon and the rings are bridged by split rings (ie. we move from one inner ring to the next via a split ring instead of bare thread or chain). Each of these needs the join for both the inward & outward facing rings (fig11).

          Does the join occur only between rings? 

  

In this medallion, the linkage takes place between the inner yellow rings as well as the first and last blue chains (fig12).

 

Again, there may be multiple linkages. Can you identify the ring-to-ring and the ring-to-chain links in the Classic square (fig13) ; Or the final chain-to-chain link in the snowflake? (fig14)

          Layered and 3D formations

Why stop at only 2D tatting? Tatting around a button, cabochon, gem, shell, doodad, may all end up with a last picot join to the right. 

 

Whether around a button, or around a gem for a ring, the final inward facing ring clearly needs to be joined back. The popular Ice Drops require the join both on the front and back. And even the final curled ring is linked back around the shell. (fig15). In the ANKAR-style earring not just the large blue rings, but the curled rings also need the picot join to their right (fig16).

          Is it always the final/last join? 

Again, No.

In both the part 1 & part 2 pictorials, as in majority of tutorials, the thread(s) end up at the front/above the work. It does not matter as usually the work is ending and after the threads  are snipped off, the tails can be repositioned as desired.

 

But there are patterns where one may need to continue further and hence both threads need to be on the same side - either at back of work or in front - as in the Curly Cross pendant (fig5) or this 3D flower (fig17). 

In the one-pass snowflake, ‘Celeste’ (fig18), each arm has rings that need to be linked to their right, and work continues! So ‘last to first’ is no longer applicable! 

I hope these projects provide a glimpse into the diverse usage of the join to the right, and why a generic term like ‘picot join to the right’ is more applicable than the smaller windows provided by other terms. Nevertheless, whatever term (or movement) is used, one should now be able to identify with ease, where and when the ‘right’ picot join is required. No more scratching one's head even if the pattern instructions do not specify it !!!

Related Posts

Part 1

Part 2

Part 4

Joins in Shuttle Tatting

Common Threads

ring as a fish

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you don't take the bite ?
Is she daft, you ask ?! A tatted ring is tear drop shaped and everybody knows that !!!

Tatted Ring as a Fish

Ah, but when we tat a ring, what do we call the 2 threads dangling beneath - the ones we dread coz they need to be hidden ?
Tails (thread tails, tail ends) , correct.
And what does the opposite end look like - the one that is broad ? Add an eye Picasso-style, and what have you ?
Head - of a fish :-D
And this broad head determines how the rings are facing in a medallion or in a motif.

Inward and Outward facing rings

download  pdf  here

Being able to identify whether rings are facing inwards or outwards, can be of help in knowing 

• which joins to use (for instance, do we need to know the folded or twisted picot join when we need to join to the right),
• which shuttles to use and how 2 colours will be positioned, 
• how to orient our diagrams, 
• how to read tatting diagrams, etc. 
• It also makes it easier to explain to others – see images below.
• This is applicable to medallions which enclose a space, and also to rows and rounds in larger patterns - how are the rings joined - inwards or outwards. This also determines the overall Direction in which we work that row, round, or medallion - left/right; clockwise/counterclockwise. This in turn can help us decide what to tat backside in case of directional or fs/bs tatting.

The pdf shows how to identify inward and outward facing rings in a medallion or pattern, using fish as an analogy for a tatted ring.

The pdf is largely graphic. While it is important to know and understand tatting terms, the future of tatting is going visual. Be it books in languages we do not understand and rely only on the diagrams they present, or videos, it becomes important to understand, at a glance, what skills and tools we require.

So, head in the right direction -  follow the head of the fish ring !

If the heads are facing outwards in a motif or medallion, it is outward facing medallion -

are the fish trying to get away from each other or from a fisherman's bait ?!

If the heads are facing inwards, it is an inward facing medallion -

the fish are in a huddle, with their heads knocking each other !

With a fish analogy, it becomes Quick and Simple to tell at a glance and in a couple of words!

While I was working on the pdf, unknown to me, Sandra Figg was working on this video to show us the difference (we both saw the need, generated out of the same discussion thread!). 
Like I said - the future of learning to tat lies in graphics :-)  

The pdf has a few basic terms such as motif, trefoil, clover, medallion, scroll, etc. Hopefully beginners will have no problem in understanding them, and others in identifying which is which.

In case help is needed, I will explain them briefly, with comparative images/collages in next post. Your feedback is awaited. Please leave a comment or email.

whether you like to be in a tatters' huddle or running away from life's bait, 
keep tatting happily always :-)