just so tatting

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Over the past few weeks I had been receiving versions of the DAL 2025 challenge and I was feeling very inspired and motivated, itching to design/tat. While I couldn't focus on adding another round for my own DAL version, I picked up a motif I had worked for the glossary and decided to tat around it. My aim was to keep it simple.

For many samples I have been using Anchor knitting cotton size 10. This is very thick but smooth and a bit loosely twisted. Sometimes it is necessary to be attentive while tensioning the stitches to keep them uniform. Nevertheless, I do enjoy tatting with it. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to use such thick pieces in SOUP tatting. So I am happy that this has now become a good size for a coaster (9cms across).

Sharing the pattern for the Just So Coaster if anybody is interested. I was simply winging it but it lays flat.

• It can be worked continuously in one pass by climbing out with mock picots, split chains and split ring. Trace the path before you start. Otherwise, enjoy working as individual rounds and play with colours. 2 shuttles are required only if you wish to tat it in one pass. 
• Count for each round is marked in a different colour.
• It starts with a central ring with long picots, followed by two rounds of chains lock joined below.
• The 3rd round is a scroll with rings and chains. I wanted the smaller rings to overlap a wee bit but they ended up only squished together. Both small rings are joined to the same picot of previous round while the large ring is joined to the hidden picot above the lock join.
• Again a chains-only round with medium sized picots. 

There are pics for individual rounds - WIP and/or completed. However, I doubt they are needed and would take too much time to notate. Hence I hope the inked count along with my notes will suffice. 

• And if working as separate rounds, it is a beginner pattern with only rings, chains, picots, picot joins and lock joins and each round can be worked with a ball and one shuttle, CTM.

I deliberately have picots on the last round in the event I feel like adding one or more rounds. 

Feel free to extend the design to more rounds, if you wish, but do share it with me. All my contact details are on the top right panel of my blog.

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UPDATE (3rd May, 2025): Round 5 is shared here https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/05/comfort-tatting.html and end Round 4 with a split chain for continuous tatting. 

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I hadn't intended for the scroll round to be so overwhelmingly ecru. So it lay around for some inspiration. It was a happy coincidence that I bought new threads from a 'new to me' online store. I needed more contrasting colours in this knitting cotton to work on the samplers and as soon as the package was delivered my mind was made up with this maroon shade! 

Since it was my first time with this store, I bought single balls/sets of different types of threads/brands so that I know what to expect in future, except for the six knitting cotton shades. And I am very happy with the quality and service and will definitely be going back for encores ;-D It was nice to see they stocked size 40 threads too, albeit in Red Heart, since Anchor has stopped manufacturing it. The other balls are all Anchor - size 20, perle, etc. More about the 'cone' threads later.

So this is my knitting cotton palette for now. Bottom row are the 4 shades I have had for a very long time (there are at least 6 more balls of ecru, bought from my local shop at least 10+ years back). I have already used all shades in my recent samplers, giving new life, energy, and colours!

Happy Tatting! Thank you for inspiring me!

continuous paths

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There are some lovely doilies in Endrucks' book, all worked in one pass. What I find, though, is that unlike her straight lace patterns, the circular doilies tend to either ruffle or cup, and some tweaking of count is required. I think it is a matter of individual tatting tension?

Another thing I've noticed is that perle cotton (as in the one above) is more forgiving than mercerised cotton which makes sense due to the difference in their twist. The tight twist of mercerised cotton thread tends to keep the lace stiffer and less flexible. 

Despite all the colours in the mandala, false CTM gave me a sense of continuous tatting. However, for the Endrucks 1920 Project, I needed to tat a model that could be more easily shared in modern style which is why I chose this pistachio green in Anchor size 20. It is tatted in one pass using mock picots, split chains, and split rings to climb out. 

Above I have traced the 'modern' path of climbing out of rounds (in blue). For this to work smoothly, I had to work a couple of rounds counterclockwise. The orange path shows how Frau Endrucks moved to the next round - simply add another chain(s) till you reach the point where you can climb out! 

UPDATE: I  have coined the term 'SHADOW CHAIN' for this extra chain(s) used to climb out to the next round, row, or motif, thus enabling continuous tatting.

No need to learn any techniques, and the direction of each round remains unchanged. But as seen above, it does add extra chains along the path....something which 21st century tatters may not like. Although in fine threads, it may pass inspection, and clearly speed up tatting.

UPDATE: Pattern for this doily is uploaded, showing both methods of climbing out - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vG2g0JCVsy8cy2DfGKHEhxleq_7Rveba/view

 

Since the first few rounds can be worked off a shuttle and ball, I used my earlier tip about extending the thread between 2 shuttles. All the extra thread in left pic was wound on to the ball temporarily, till it got used up and the 2nd shuttle was needed.

Of course, one can simply keep shuttle 1 and ball thread continuous and tat till the 2nd shuttle is needed. At that point, pull out the length required, cut from ball, and wind up shuttle2.

There was a lot of ruffling in the green model, despite adding a few stitches to a later round. So I started another in tinted Anchor size 20, with modified stitch count. Worked beautifully and lay flat. The 3rd round does ruffle till the 4th round is added, but this is a structural problem.

Ran out of thread after 5 rounds, hence added a bold violet shade to add a spot of colour. I kinda like it - what do you think?

I am busy with pattern #17, hence this pattern pdf will have to wait a bit. However, for those who'd like to try it right away, you can find the written instructions and tips by Georgia here.

This is Pattern #28 from Schiffchen-Spitzen 1920 by Eleonore Endrucks-Leichtenstern. You can find all the links in the Endrucks 1920 Project doc here along with all other patterns in modern format. We are hoping to have all of Endrucks' patterns in modern format by this November - a year from when we started. 

knot stitch stepwise

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I'm not sure whether I will be using this stitch, but it does not hurt to have options. Never say never! It is not difficult and I soon got into a rhythm where the knot stitch, first seen in 1924, could be accomplished in one smooth movement. So, though my pictorial has numerous steps and detailed instructions, it is best to simply pick up your shuttle and tat along. Choose a thick thread in light colour for your first attempts.

The original diagrams in Priscilla Book 3 (free download from http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/tatting.htm) are very clear. Snapdragon has shared the scans here - http://www.snapdragonlace.com/?p=183   More links in my previous post - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/old-in-new.html 

Rose Motif from the same book, in Anchor pearl cotton size 8. Bridging elements (chains) use the knot stitch. I am so much happier with this one and the thread behaved itself! More at the end of this post.

At the end of the pictorial I have also compared the knot stitch chain with a split chain, which was a later invention.

KNOT  STITCH  Pictorial

( https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/knot-stitch-stepwise.html )

Shuttle and ball, continuous thread. Shuttle with a hook (or pick) is preferable for fluid movement. 

I start with a backside ring and reverse work, so that the shuttle is in position, to the right of ball thread. 

Always keep the ball thread taut; all movements are with the shuttle and there is no transference.  

1.  Wrap the ball thread over your left hand as when working a chain. In this method, ball thread becomes the core thread over which we make the knot stitches.

Move shuttle to the left Over the ball thread. Let's call this loop a , 

2. ...and bring the shuttle back towards the right to create a second loop on the other side of ball thread.

Important : The black arrow tells you to keep both threads in your pinch (between left thumb and finger) through to figures 6 or 7.

3. This becomes loop b. Notice that the shuttle thread is still over the ball thread as well as above a. 

4. Bring shuttle over a, but under the ball thread, and hook b 

5. With a slight rotation of the shuttle, it is easy to pull b through. Let's call this loop c. Keep shuttle tip under c. Note that loop c is under the ball thread and is pulled over a.

6. Pull all of b into c. Keep pulling c outwards, while keeping your pinch where the black arrow is. Notice how the shuttle has moved and rotated smoothly.

7. As c is being pulled out, you can simultaneously tug on the thread indicated by the crochet hook. This will shorten a. When c is large enough, pass shuttle through the loop. Then loosen your pinch on the left.

8. The shuttle has fully passed through c, and keep tugging to close a. 

I actually use my right hand (with shuttle still in hand) to pinch the indicated thread to ensure all slack from a is removed ... 

9. Notice that a has disappeared and only c is left. Now keep pulling shuttle thread to close c.

Important : Close all of a before closing c.

10. All loops are closed and 1 knot stitch is complete.

11. 7 knot stitches made. We have successfully climbed out of the central ring with a chain.

12. After the 7ks chain, I continued with a normal 4-4-4 chain using double stitches.

Then leaving bare thread of same length as the previous ks chain, make a lock join on ring picot.

13. With ball thread in left hand as if making a chain, cover the bare thread with knot stitches.

14. Another ks chain is complete, followed by a regular chain.

Comparing knot stitch (ks) and split chain (SCh) -

I wanted to compare these ks chains with a split chain (the 3rd segment on the right). At a glance, there is not much difference. 

SCh looks exactly like a normal chain, with exactly the same thickness and curvature. The simulated double stitches are made using Dora Young's knotless method.

The ks chain is slightly bulkier or denser/compact and just that tiny bit straighter. The ks does not have 2 distinct half stitches - it is more like one loop is nestled within (see fig 10 above - notice where the shuttle thread is emerging from). This creates a lovely texture along the edge which might be slightly more evident in lighter shades. 

Knot Stitch can do everything a Split Chain can - climbing out for continuous tatting; bridging between elements in any direction.  

It would be interesting to use ks as a design element, with perhaps a bit more slack on a to look like picots. What about curlicues (single shuttle split chains), floating chains, and filet tatting? Playing with colours? See more links for variations here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/old-in-new.html

Read Judith Connors' comments here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2020/07/splitting-mesh.html

Rose Motif from Priscilla Book 3. As in my first attempt here, I made graduated picots along the outer chains, but kept to the original pattern in all other respects. I started with a backside (RODS) central ring, reversed work and continued to next round. Both rounds are worked from the front in clockwise direction. The ks chains have thrown/floating rings; so remember to reverse work before and after each ring.

In Anchor pearl cotton size 8, the motif measures 3.5cms after 1st round and 5.5cms final. Worked with one shuttle and ball, ctm.

The one below is from Anita Barry. I roped her in and she readily agreed to refresh her memory. Her first one was years back. 

I hadn't noticed till she pointed out that all her ks chains do not face the same way. There is a tendency for the ks chains to twist a bit especially if the joining picot is long. But her picots were very small, as directed in the original instructions and seen in the 2 WIP pics. Hmmm. Any ideas?

Many thanks to all tatters who have shared across time 

so that we continue to have options and ideas!

old in new

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I started tatting this year! Chose an old motif in the new year - something that's been in my to-tat list for ages. The WIP above is my 2nd trial - OCD much?! The Rose Motif from Priscilla Book 3 - http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/tatting.htm

Actually, my first one in pink (Anchor size 40 thread) has several mistakes. Since none of the instructions mentioned RW (reverse work), and I was working with one shuttle and ball, it was only while taking pics that I realised the outer round is backside.

I found my rhythm with knot stitch - it wasn't difficult. But the thread itself caused immense frustration! It kept twisting. Probably the S and Z twist issue. I was determined, so completed the motif, but knew I could do a much better job with the bridging.

It measures 4.5 cms. I switched the rings with Josephine Rings and made graduated picots along the fringe. Both motifs worked with one shuttle and ball, ctm.

So, I started again in Anchor Pearl Cotton size 8, and it went so smoothly! Much happier with the result, too. 

Before starting, I had been collecting links from other bloggers and their experience helped a great deal. 

UPDATE : Completed motif along with a stepwise pictorial for Knot Stitch posted here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/knot-stitch-stepwise.html

Here are the projects that I found, although I'm sure there must be many more. 

Snapdragon - 

http://www.snapdragonlace.com/?p=183 and http://www.snapdragonlace.com/?p=604

She shared the pattern in modern notation. However, one needs to reverse work before and after the floating ring. Also, I started my 2nd motif with a backside central ring so that the shuttle thread was in position to climb out to the next round.

Ninetta Caruso - 

https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2016/09/time-means-nothing.html

https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2020/02/something-in-common.html - in 2 colours

https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2016/09/more-from-1924.html - an extension in 2 colours

Marilee Rockley -

https://yarnplayertats.blogspot.com/2020/08/old-tatting-new-tatting.html - she substituted the knot stitch bridging with Split Chains. She also joined leaves on the go.

https://yarnplayertats.blogspot.com/2020/08/jacket-project-and-easy-weavers-knot.html 

and  https://yarnplayertats.blogspot.com/2020/10/wearing-my-jacket-embellished-with.html show the motif sewn to a jacket!

Do you know of others who have done the Rose Motif (from Hell, as Sanpdragon called it)? Please do share.

In my next post, I'll share the stepwise pictorial for Knot Stitch, with my own take on it.

climbing out with mock picot

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A question was posed in a facebook group and my first answer was incorrect. Got my shuttle, thread and beads out, and gave it a few whirls. Wahoo, got it! (I'm getting good with bead solutions ;-P) Later, Lee Buchanan posted another option.

Climbing Out with a Mock Picot …

with a bead at the base!

What’s special or new about climbing out with a mock picot, you ask? Well, this time there was a bead at the base of the ring and a long picot over it. Looking back it seems, huh, what’s the big deal. Try it with a normal ring, and you’ll discover the issue.

This may have been done before but I’d like to keep a record on hand for future. Sharing both methods here.

For this pictorial, only 1 shuttle is used, with a long thread left attached (ctm).

Method 1 : Mock Ring

1. String beads on the shuttle thread and start a mock ring. I find the self-closing mock ring (SCMR) is neatest and the closure almost ‘invisible’.

Leave a loop and slide a bead after each double stitch (or as per pattern). I have 6 beads here. 

2. After sliding last bead, do not make any more ds, pass shuttle through loop ...

3. ...and close the mock ring. 

4. Leave bare space for the mock picot and make a lock stitch or overhand tie (SLT). Continue with pattern.

Method 2 : Reverse Ring

Lee Buchanan got into the swing of things and offered this RR solution!

1. Start a reverse ring (tutorial links here). A reverse ring or wrong-way tatting starts on the opposite side of a normal ring, and has reverse or unflipped stitches. Make sure the beads are within the loop of the ring, and slide a bead after each reverse stitch. 

2. After sliding the last bead, close the ring. 

3. Threads emerge on either side of bead. 

4. Make a mock picot by securing the bare threads with a lock stitch or SLT and continue with next element in pattern.

As you can see, the end result is the same. Of course, getting that last picot to look unbroken is unavoidable, Unless the next element is a split ring in which case no lock stitch or shoe lace trick is required.

TIP : If beads are on the picot (up beads), one can climb out with a mock picot as in this beautiful Sitka Rose motif here.

Thank you Sheetal. Each time a question is asked, 

there is an opportunity for mutual learning and improvement!

Thank you Lee, for being such an enthusiastic and adventurous tatting sport! 

PLEASE NOTE: If you wish for a pdf of any of my posts, let me know. I now have a mail app thatnallows me to convert any post into a pdf easily.

spin away

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Firstly, thank you for your response to my design dilemma with respect to this snowflake. I do love blogging :-)

Snowflake #3 for Land of Laces’ 25 Snowflake Project on facebook.

Spin Away Snowflake

click to download free pattern pdf

Here’s what I have done with it finally.... 

I switched the rings around the central ring to face in the opposite direction, leading to the next rings having their broader side on the outside, and so on. 

It gave me the long arms, but a broad base tapering naturally to the tip unlike the blue version previously where the dendrites appear spindly.  

In that sense, the arm is an extension of the original yellow flake.

The 2^nd chain segment could've been shorter in version 3. Instead I changed something else … 

This is the final version worked in Lizbeth size 20. 

Can you spot the change between versions 3 & 4 ? 

Which do you prefer - the green or blue one?

Since there was no clear consensus, and I Have worked on them all, the pdf contains all 4 patterns. You can pick and choose one or more, since each is a stand-alone.

I also included the 2-colour version merely to show the working sequence of shuttles.

The snowflake is worked in one-pass by climbing out of the central ring with a mock picot, as instructed in the pattern. However, here are a couple of alternate routes …

Alternate working :

1. Pull out a length of thread from shuttle 1, work the central ring and climb out with mock picot. Use this tail to work the 2^nd side of the first split ring, and then add 2^nd shuttle when the tail ends. I used this in a couple of the models.
2. Instead of starting with a central ring and climbing out, work the first ring as a mock ring (SCMR), and throw off the central ring leaving a mock picot between them. Then continue as normal, after rotating work and switching shuttles.

I’d still like to add some graduated picots on the lower chain segment to see the effect, but that will be for another day. Or perhaps some keen tatter will do it and share?!

It was amazing to see the response and wonderful tweaks made to the Paisley snowflake! And Gloria Nelson has entered her needle-tatted, graduated picots model in a Handy Hands draw! First time my pattern has been entered in any kind of competition/draw that I know of!

There are ideas spinning in my head, so watch out for more spin-offs on this pattern!

click to download free Spin Away Snowflake pattern 

All patterns are listed under Snowflakes here