locked in a rope

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Part 3 - final post of the chain maille pictorials, based on Ninetta Caruso's posts. You can find my previous pictorials here - Part 1 ; Part 2.

So far, we have seen 3 methods/variations (and more listed) of the Interlocking Split Rings that create a 3D chain maille effect. The chain or braid so made, whether with 1, 2, or 4 shuttles, remains linear with clearly distinguishable rings. Ninetta has cleverly twisted the chain into a rope that spirals on itself! Let's see how ....

D. Interlocking Split Rings - Rope Chain

ref : Ninetta Caruso's gold rope chain pictorial

(interlocking split rings - chain maille variation of Kathy Niklewicz's method)

The only difference from the pictorial shared in Part 2 (C), is that instead of pulling a loop through the previous ring, in order to make the next ring, the loop is pulled through the last TWO rings. This collapses the rings, bringing them closer and also creates a gradual twist.

Red is shuttle 1 with cream thread ; yellow is shuttle 2 with variegated thread.

All split rings are 10/10 (since the thread is thick)

 

D-1 : 3 interlocking split rings have been made as in C here. Insert hook from the back through previous 2 rings....

D-2 : ... and hook the shuttle 1 thread ...

 

D-3 : ... pulling it to the back.

D-4 : Pull the loop long enough to wrap around the hand to make the next split ring.

 

D-5 : As in previous pictorial, leave some bare thread before starting the 1st side. 10ds made. Ensure shuttle2 thread is inside the loop.

D-6 : Leave bare thread and work the 10 unflipped stitches for 2nd side.

NOTE : I was so focused on the steps and photographing every detail, that I missed the larger picture! Leave More bare thread I  order for each ring to twist more into a rope-like weave.

 

D-7 : Close ring.

D-8 : Repeat steps to work as many interlocked split rings as desired. As the rope grows longer, it starts to twist - hence the term rope chain. The rope looks superb from the side!

D-9 : This is how the rope looks from the shuttle 1 side.

E. Interlocking Split Rings - Beaded Rope Chain  

ref : Ninetta's Rope Chain bracelet in black and silver with red beads

A short pictorial that follows the previous (D), but with a bead added before each ring. Of course, more seed beads can be added along the edges, etc.

 

E-1 : String beads on shuttle 1.

E-2 : Before starting 2nd ring, move bead to the base. In image, a bead is moved before starting 3rd ring. Insert hook through 2nd ring to pull back a loop for the 3rd ring. These will form a chain maille as in Part 2 (C).

 

E-3 : 3rd ring made. Now we start the rope chain variation. Move bead to base of previous ring (not shown in pic), insert hook through rings 3 AND 2 ...

E-4 : and pull back the loop for 4th ring. 

TIP : Try to be consistent in the position of the threads throughout. I kept the bare thread and loop 'behind' the bead always.

 

E-5 : 4th ring complete and bead brought forward before next ring. Notice how the rings are now very close together, with greater overlap. The chain maille interlocking effect seems to get lost.

E-6 : Insert hook through rings 4 AND 3 to pull back loop for next ring.

 

E-7 : Repeat steps from E-3 to desired length.

E-8 : As seen from the side.

This rope can be quite addictive! I stopped only on running out of thread. Notice the twist?

To finish, beads are strung through the leftover tails, ending with a 6-bead ring/flower, and hiding the ends within a few beads. Add a clasp to the starting ring for a bracelet or a necklace.

There is a tendency for a horizontal thread to show up across the side of each ring. It could be the shuttle1 thread across the 1st side of ring, or shuttle2 thread across the 2nd side (as in my first trials in previous post). 

TIP : To Avoid Visible Bare Thread : By keeping the bare thread at the start of each side of split ring short, this horizontal bar can be avoided. While the bare thread is important to create a play and twist, keeping it as short as possible eliminates its visibility.

Ninetta's TIP : Another possible way is if we use 4 shuttles instead of 2, as in Ruth Perry's models. Or one can use a thread colour and size where it is not immediately visible.

This is it for the present, although I will some day come back to try out other methods (see complete listing here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/tatting-resources.html), as well as a couple of project ideas I have applying these effects. I did intend to tat with metallic, but time is at a premium and I need to get back to completing the hanky edging as the deadline quickly approaches.

Longtime readers of my blog may have noticed that I rarely create pictorials of something that is already in public domain, preferring to cite links, unless I have something different or something more to offer. Or, as in this case, when a tatter specifically requests. Hence I cannot thank Ninetta enough for her gracious permission to upload these pictorials, and her willingness to provide valuable feedback and insight. 

And by extension, my thanks to all tatters, teachers, designers mentioned in these 3 posts, who were instrumental in adding a valuable link to our ever-growing Tatting chain!

locked in play

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Continuing from my previous post where 2 methods of Interlocking split rings (chain maille style) were uploaded. Again, I follow Ninetta's post to share the 3rd method based on Kathy Niklewicz's method and then its further application in the tatted rope chain.

I first tried Kathy's single-shuttle IR method (along with other methods) in 2014 here. Ninetta took it a step further by using it to create a truly 3D effect. This variation is photographed stepwise below.

C. Interlocking Split Rings - Chain Maille

ref : Kathy Niklewicz's Interlocking Rings and Ninetta's Method 3 variation

Red is shuttle 1 with cream thread ; yellow is shuttle 2 with variegated thread.

All split rings are 8/8.

 

C-1 : Unlike the earlier methods (refer previous post), in this case we can safely close the split ring. 

C-2 : Through the closed ring, insert a hook from the back and hook it to shuttle1 thread.

 

C-3 : Pull a loop front to back through the ring, as seen.

C-4 : Pull out enough of the loop and note the position of each thread(s). 

 

C-5 : Wrap the loop around your hand just as in the earlier methods. The static end of loop is is to the left (where stitches will start) and the moving shuttle part goes around, emerging toward the right.

C-6 : Leave some bare thread (indicated by hook) and start tatting the stitches for 1st side of SR.

 

C-7 : Wrap loop around hand for 2nd side of SR; leave some bare thread (notice the yellow segment) and begin unflipped stitches. Note that the 2nd shuttle thread is within the loop.

C-8 : Stitches complete on both sides.

 

C-9 : Close split ring. 

C-10 : Repeat steps to make as many interlocked split rings as desired.

The advantage of this method is that one does not have to remember to insert the shuttle before closing ring. The disadvantage is that bare thread can be visible from some angles.

A very small variation of this method is used to create the rope chain.

Jane McLellan has used the same method to create a chain maille with a single shuttle and regular rings.

Ruth Perry probably pioneered the modern technique and has created beautiful effects using only chains or 4 shuttles where the bare thread can be eliminated. Teri Dusenbury has instructions for the same using 2 steps and finger tatting here.

This method of pulling a loop through a previous element to tat a ring has also been demonstrated by Patty Dowden to make wonderful rings on picots. 

And don't miss this recent video by Edda Guastella who creates a variation of the chain maille using single shuttle.

Unfortunately, this series will run into a 3rd post dealing with the rope chain, to avoid an avalanche of pics. Instead let me show you my very first chain maille trials.

Above are my Day 1 trials, in Anchor size 20 threads. On the left sampler are my trials of the 3 methods and variations. 

Can you spot the rings that do not look interlocked? Although I do not fully understand why that happened, I think the following TIP might help avoid such mistakes, because there is a tendency for the loop to get stuck at the base of the previous ring -

TIP : 1. After completing 1st side, tug at the core thread that is on the lower right (where you would start the 2nd side stitches). You will notice that the 1st side moves towards the right under the previous ring. 

2. In the 2nd image, the 1st stitch of 1st side, is visible on the right. So you are now sure that your ring is interlocked correctly, and can continue to tat the 2nd side.

3. Tat the 2nd side of split ring and continue with the chain maille method you are using.

Part 3 will be the final post for the present. Of course there will be more projects in the future when I try out the several methods and effects listed above.

lay it on, baby

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SOUP card and tatted rope pattern

Playing around. See, I don’t need friends to distract me; I do well enough myself !

Looking for ways to use up your little bits and pieces of tatted lace, medallions, learning or trial pieces, mistakes, etc.? Another SOUP* (Sewing On/Using Pieces)tatting card. This time I placed little pieces over the larger medallion. Haven’t glued them down yet, merely playing at a good composition….

This is where it all started – made the lower motif for a tutorial and then used up the leftover thread for the upper ring. 

In time for Diwali and other festivities – an idea in time saves a dime ;-P

I have blogged the 3 larger medallions earlier.  

ËÌËÌËÌËÌË

Now that Ninetta has tested it, I want to put the pattern out, since I want to get back to other projects. She has also tried another variation/modification of this SR method (I will update with the link later), as well as a whole range of other techniques and will be blogging about it over the next few weeks at least. Keep an eye out – this is just the start!

All links to design process, etc. are here.

Tatted Rope Bangle/bracelet/kadaa 

generic pattern 

The pattern can be adapted to suit your choice of thread and beads. I am merely giving the main process – adapt as you will. You can increase the number of colours, or decrease; change their placement to create new designs, …. And the length can determine which piece of jewellery it can become.  Play!

If you wish to practice without beads First,  try this tree trunk pattern here. 

MATERIALS :

Size 20 crochet cotton.

2 shuttles.

Picot gauge (I used 7mm but 6mm is sufficient)

Crochet hook (I used #12 to load bead on long picot)

Bicone crystals in 4 colours – 2mm.

With 18x4=72 crystals, this prototype is 4 inches long and about 1cm wide.

Choose one colour beads, and load half in one shuttle, the remaining half in the other shuttle. Wind shuttles ctm (continuous thread).

The remaining 54 beads will be later inserted Over the long picot,  at the time of joining, in the colour sequence desired.

NOTE : Length of long picot and number of stitches between these is determined by the size of your beads and the amount of thread you want visible.

- : measured or long picot (6 or 7 mm in this case)

B+ : load bead on long picot of previous (lower) ring, and join upper ring. I count the join as 1^st half stitch, followed by 2^nd half stitch.

SR : split ring  ; R : ring

SS : switch shuttle

Sh1 : R : 2 - 2 - 2 - 2. Close. SS and move bead from Sh2 to base of ring.

Start next SR with Sh2 keeping bead OUT of loop.

**Sh2 : SR : 1 - 1 B+ 1 - 1 B+ 1 - 1 B+ 1 / mock picot 1. Post Sh1. Close.

Leave some bare thread before working the 2^nd side of SR (as in a mock picot, equal to the height of the bead).

SS and move bead from Sh1 and start next ring with Sh1 following same process **

Repeat ** to ** for desired rows, switching shuttles and moving bead from that shuttle to the base.

TIP : It becomes easier to work the split ring if, after the 1^st double stitch, we work the 2^nd side of SR (which is only 1 stitch) and then continue back with the rest of the first side. (Thank you, Ninetta)

TIP: Post shuttle : If the shuttle that is used for 2^nd side of SR is passed through the ring before closing, the bare thread from mock picot is not visible, ie., keep the shuttle INSIDE the loop. It may cause a bit of twist in the ring, but is of no consequence. 

TIP : If you wish to join back to starting ring, seamlessly/invisibly,  tat the 1st ring as follows : 1(-1)×7. The 'free' picots can later be used to load bead and join to last ring.

Insert required findings/clasps for jewellery. Or simply tat one last ring and curl it around the first ring to complete the circle.

It gets easier and easier as one gets into the rhythm. So if a bead-challenged person (ahem, I) can do it, you surely can! Give it a try ….

tat a beaded rope

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I wasn't to be distracted - everybody knew. But with friends like this, who needs enemies ;-P
This evil genius sweetly invited a few of us on facebook to put Sue’s suggestion to thread. She’s evil for distracting me, but genius for doing me a favour … I Finally got around to trying my layered/stacked SR bracelet/Kadaa - a first trial I shared in 2015, and it's Christmas tree trunk pattern here.

It took me one entire day of fiddling around (and experimenting), trying to refresh my memory and convert the pattern into a beaded cord. Problem wasn’t in the pattern but the mismatch between beads, crochet hooks/threaders, beading needles, threads, etc. etc. I had started off with finer thread and smaller beads; finally only these larger bicone crystals worked with the size 20 crochet cotton, and a #12 crochet hook. Now it is going smoothly & I’ve found my rhythm. However, Ninetta will be testing it first.

UPDATE : Pattern is shared here. But look out for more on Ninetta's blog.

It did give me a whole new admiration for all the bead-heavy work crafters do. Reminded me of Jane McLellan's numerous crochet beaded ropes that she seems to belt out at such rapid pace.  

A few Experiments and NOTES - 

• I tried putting beads on the core thread, but they face inside the hollow with thread showing on the outside.
• I also tried pre-stringing beads. This worked if alternated with picots where rings needed to be attached.  If I had beads on a picot, it was difficult to join since the picot/thread ran horizontal through the bead hole - so a join would become skewed.
• In the pictured version, I loaded 2 shuttles with only brown crystals (half on each shuttle); the rest were loaded over long picots at the time of joining. This is more practical – no pre-stringing loads of beads, no large shuttle required. However, working a SR can become a bit impractical till one gets a hang of it.

Last night I made a short video of the start.

I haven't tried Ninetta's single shuttle method yet, or the other numerous ways including chains. For another day. But following are a few of my thoughts ....

  

Comparing stacked rings and the layered/stacked split rings –

• Single thread/shuttle versus 2 shuttles
• Difficulty level - simple rings versus split rings.
• Pre-stringing beads versus few pre-strung beads (most are loaded on long picot at time of joining).
• For long project, large shuttle required versus regular shuttles.
• The cord twists on itself, like a double helix versus beads spiralling around while cord remains ‘straight’.
• The subsequent rings are ‘rotated’ slightly before being joined below versus emerging out of a split ring with a phase shift.

It will be interesting to try out other methods. In fact there is a lot of evolution these methods might incur. Time, experimenting, and testing will reveal ….