INTERLOCKING RINGS using Shuttle

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My thoughts

Love Celtic tatting ?

Need to make Interlocking Rings ?

Can only shuttle-tat ?

I consider myself fortunate that tatters before me have openly shared all their experiences, trials & techniques on the net, so that we do not have to reinvent the wheel. Instead, we can simply read/watch/learn & then pick & adopt whichever technique suits us best !

This is exactly what happened with Interlocking Rings (IRs)

Ever since I laid eyes on Celtic/Irish tatting, I was enamoured by the interweaves & overlaps ! Took me a while to realize that tools & techniques, other than my normal shuttle, were required . Since I am a shuttler, I needed to find tuts/techs that taught how to make IRs using a shuttle, & not needle.

First stop : 

An initial search led me to a step-by-step pictorial by Sue for InterlockingSCMRs using shuttle. I tried very hard but failed – my SCMRs kept “opening up” as soon as I looked away ! Hence, shelved for later, & on with more searching …   

Second stop :
Karen’s video tut on Single Shuttle Interlocking Rings . Finally got the hang of making overlapping rings. However, try as I might, I could still not get that last ring to overlap correctly ! Notice the last ring in adjoining image - Both sides are going under the adjacent rings !

After many trials, some ending in the dustbin, I renewed my internet search.

Third stop : 
Wow ! I found Jon’s write-up & diagram explaining how to get that “pesky” little final ring to overlap correctly. Without Jon’s diagram, I had almost given up.

Armed with these trials, I attempted Frivole’s Rose & Crown motif. This motif was the immediate motivation to advance my learning in the first place!

Attempt 1:

( Anchor size 20 Cadmium Orange 4054-0307 shade )

The IRs overlapped correctly, but there seemed to be a tightness in the center. That called for another attempt.

                       

Attempt 2 :

( Anchor size 20 Purple 4054-0101 ) . 

Yay ! I was happy with this trial. Although all tutorials pointed out that each subsequent ring needs to be started without leaving any space, I found that if I left a tiny length (just about 1 mm only) before starting the next ring, it helped to keep the structure even & lie ‘flat’.

 

Fourth stop :
The above motifs were done a few weeks back & I went on to other things. Suddenly I chanced upon Another tutorial – this one by Kathy. I quickly scanned through the 2-part detailed pictorial &  pinned it for future reference, if necessary.

Then, while working on a free-form bracelet, I made an “error” which caused the ring to twist a bit & also caused the next ring to overlap !!! That reminded me of Kathy’s pictorial & off I went to check it out in depth & put it to practice. Interlocking Rings made with Shuttle part 1  & Interlocking Rings made with Shuttle part 2  

Attempts 3 & 4 :

( Anchor size 20. #3 : Maroon 022 ; #4 : Royal Blue 4054-0133)

I started on the 3^rd motif ( Anchor size 20 Maroon 022 ) directly. Kathy’s technique was so very simple & easy to remember !!! And the IRs came out perfectly. I did have to leave the 1mm thread space though.

I was so excited that I started a 4^th motif in Royal Blue 4054-0133. Successful again.

  

Some notes based on my experiences :

Leave a 1 mm, or less, thread space before starting subsequent rings. This works for me.

Karen’s technique:

• This video opened the door to my shuttle-made IRs.
• One has to remember to make the loose half stitch before closing each ring. There were numerous occasions when I forgot & had to open up the ring & accommodate that posting of shuttle with half stitch.
• For the life of me I could Not get that last ring to overlap in same direction. 

Jon's diagram:

• An extended explanation to Karen's video. Hence, one follows Karen's method but works the last ring based on Jon's diagram & clarification. That diagram is a life-saver if I can be dramatic ;-))

Kathy’s technique:

• Easiest to follow & apply.
• One does not have to remember to make half-st & post shuttle before closing each ring - major advantage!
• One is basically tatting on the ‘wrong side’ & the rings are then kind of ‘flipped’ or rotated to get them in position. But it all comes together beautifully.
• I agree with her about keeping the starting tail intact. It helps in identifying the 1^st ring And its position & overlap of subsequent rings. I had done this through All my attempts.

There is just one drawback to Kathy's method, if I can call it that. One has to unwind the shuttle before starting last ring, & then rewind it again. This can get a bit tiring if one has to make a large number of motifs with IRs.
This can be easily taken care of as follows :.

TIP : Get an idea of the length of thread required to make that one last ring. Unwind this length + a bit extra, & cut the thread. Tat the last ring with this length. (It is up to the tatter if s/he wishes to rewind this length or simply forge ahead without rewinding.) Once the last ring is closed, tie, cut & hide ends.

You still have plenty of thread in the shuttle to start the next set of IRs ! So, basically, one can start with a fully loaded bobbin/shuttle & make many IR motifs before the thread runs out, instead of winding only for each motif.

Motif #3 for 25 Motif Challenge