Rustic Leaf Pendant
An Original pattern
Same old flat patterns ?!
Wish to convert 2D to 3D ?
Wish to add gradation to tatting ?
I have been tinkering with threads, trying to convert flat tatting into freeform 3D shapes. Here is one such attempt inspired by a wire jewelry image on pinterest.
It is a simple, quick, one-pass pattern. Although I have used padded ds in places, to get some width & stiffness, it is entirely optional. One can make this using normal ds throughout.
For a part realistic, part abstract look, I chose this variegated brown to get a rustic & rustly feel.
Doesn't it feel like a browning, dried leaf found on the ground,
about to be trampled underfoot,
with rustling & crunching yelps emanating from it ?!!
Size 20 thread. I used Anchor Mercerized Crochet Cotton - Shade White w/ Tan 4054-1218
Size – 2 inches long ; 1 inch wide ; ½ inch high
Techniques used :
ds – double stitch
pds – padded double stitch. pds(2) denotes padded ds with 2 wraps. [click on link for tutorials & alternate terminology; My previous 2 posts are also experiments in pds tatting ]
Encapsulation (only if CTM not used) . Optional
Twisted Picot (only for Rustic Leaf with veins Pendant) . Optional
I started with a simple sketch & tried to convert it into 3D with folded & pds tatting. The only thing to keep in mind is to pull the core thread tighter than usual in order to get & keep the curves & bends of the 3D form.
I must admit that I was so taken in with the tatting, that I did not write down the exact stitch-count. I just eye-balled it, going from segment to segment, whatever took my fancy.
But here is the flow of the pattern which is clearly visible in the close-ups.
Both leaves are long chains involving folds at various sections. Leaf margin is made with the following segments in varied order :
folds in these segments wherever required (sometimes 3 1st half-sts & other times 3 2nd half-sts are used to create the fold/bend),
tiny picot at tips of leaf & notches,
Josephine ‘chain’ segment (ie. a chain made with only 1 half stitch repeated about 5-7 times). This is mainly used for the notches in the leaf margin.
TIP : Josephine chains give an immediate & pronounced curve to any chain, hence I used here.
Start with the smaller 1st leaf.
Remember to intermittently pull the core thread tight in order to get the 3D curves & bends.
Once you are satisfied with the size & shape, join at the beginning with a lock join & a short chain of 1 or 2 ds.
In similar fashion, make the larger 2nd leaf. Again lock join to the starting end of leaf.
In order to give a clearer picture, I photographed the 2 leaves one on either side. [It also shows the encapsulation or beginning of the ring that will lead to the midrib.]
One can simply 'rotate' them into desired overlap. The stiffness of the leaves will hold them in place.
TIP : One can make as many leaves as one wants, in various sizes.
If using CTM method,
Continue with a pds(2) chain, starting with a very small picot at the beginning; & pull tightly to form a ring-shape. Join to picot at the beginning. This circle is where the pendant will be suspended from.
If one has tied the 2 shuttle threads in the beginning, as I have, then leave the ends/tails for a short length. Encapsulate these tails to get a thick chain that is folded back & joined to form a ring. (see pic above).
Snip off extra lengths of tails & continue with midrib.
Continue with chain, folding at intervals. Short Josephine chain segments can also be added wherever you feel the fold is not enough. Midway through the rib, switch to normal ds to give a graded, narrowing effect but continue with folds after every 4-6 ds.
Once the rib chain reaches the tip, tie a knot & cut. I deliberately left a bit of the thread ends after knot to add to the rustic look.
Voila ! The Rustic Leaf Pendant is complete !!!
Leaf Midrib with veins
Here is a variation to the leaf midrib. I added long twisted picots to resemble the veins in a leaf.
Start with a pds chain as for the midrib. However, once the midrib ‘enters’ a short distance into the leaf blade, start making twisted picots of variable lengths. Keep folding the midrib at intervals, making sure the twisted picots face in different/opposite directions.
TIP : How to make a Twisted Picot : At the point where a picot is required, hold taut a short length of thread from the working shuttle & twist it around till it twists back on itself. This becomes the twisted picot. Immediately make the pds/ds as normal & continue. The picot will not untwist.
UPDATE : Check out the TUTORIAL FOR TWISTED PICOTS (FLOATING)
I would love to answer any queries/questions regarding the pattern ... and welcome any & all feedback.