false CTM Part 2

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Continuing the concluding Part 2 of false ctm. As expected (see comments in Part 1), most of us already use this trick in some form or situation. Now we have a name for it (thanks to Jane McLellan), and a number of situations listed together for easy reference. 

Combining CTM and False CTM

Following are examples where one set of ball and shuttle is wound ctm, but a 3^rd shuttle/thread is also at play. The first shuttle or the ball is used only later.

Can we call this false ctm?  Or is it delayed ctm?! ;-D

4. False ctm in 2-colour tatting

In the doily I started, I wanted to add colour only in the center, and the next few rounds were to be in ecru, worked continuously. Here’s what I did –

Wind 1 shuttle fully, but keep the thread connected to the ecru ball as in CTM (NOTE: ball can be replaced with a 2^nd shuttle; here I used ball). Wind another shuttle with some green thread for the rings.

I started with the green ring, using the ecru ball for chain. The ecru shuttle lies to the side and will not be used in this round.

Notice there is only one green tail at the beginning, hidden in first ring!

After working the last chain (seen from back in first pic), cut the green thread, join to base of 1^st ring, and hide tail on the other side of same ring (or under next row element).

I now have 2 ‘continuous’ ecru threads ready to start the next round!

If pattern calls for 2 shuttles, pull out thread from the ball and wind 2^nd shuttle – a ‘false ctm’ – or continue with ball and shuttle.

5. False ctm in SCMR

[ SCMR – self-closing mock ring ]

A mock ring is often used as a central ring/medallion to climb out into the next round. Usually the ring is made separately if using 2 colours, or we climb out using a mock picot for which CTM is required. Following are examples where false ctm is used effectively.

I like to use a different colour for the ring. Pull out a length and wind in blue shuttle to make the SCMR. When the ring is closed, make a mock picot to climb out (#5 in collage above. If the pattern calls for it, we can tat a split ring to continue in ring/chain round). Now add new thread to the red shuttle, ie. on the core thread, and continue with next round.

Notice in step #8, 3 shuttles are still attached. This gives me a choice of which shuttle to use to continue, if I have sufficient thread in each.

This heart is another example of 2 coloured tatting using red mock rings in center. The false ctm involves 2 balls and one shuttle (yellow is ctm ; yellow shuttle & red ball is false ctm). Since the outer round is simple rings and chains, I snip off and later hide the red tail, continuing only with yellow ball and shuttle. 

Above is an example where a ball and shuttle are used, but the threads are cut/different colours. Use shuttle to make the mock ring (tatting over ball tail) and climb out. Hide the shuttle tail in next element.

Ball can be replaced with a 2^nd shuttle. Colours can be switched. Possibilities galore.

In summary,

Anything that we do with CTM (continuous thread), can be done with False CTM, and much more, since the latter allows use of different colour. The main thing is to Look before starting and review choices. We don’t Need to start CTM every time a pattern calls for it. Use your discretion to convert it into false ctm, if required and play with leftover threads and colours.
My pictorials depict a sequence where the threads are in position for the next element or row. However, we can use a shoe lace trick (SLT) to change positions.


And don't forget to join me in my next post - I have a New snowflake that I am itching to show you, along with a pattern!!! 

false CTM Part 1

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Before the tatted rope jumped in, I had started an old doily pattern to keep my hands busy, but my mind disengaged in order to focus on pattern writing. But it, too, led to a ‘quick’ foray into ‘false CTM', something I’ve been doing a lot, in numerous situations, especially when working with 2 or more colours. I like this term recently coined by Jane McLellan.

CTM – continuous thread method, where we wind one shuttle, and thread stays continuous with the ball. Or in case of 2 shuttles,(and here, including comments), wind one shuttle, then without snipping off thread, wind the other.

We tatters prefer to start with a ring and also add new thread on a ring.

With ctm, one can start anywhere, even with a chain, with NO ends to hide. However, it works Only with single colour tatting, obviously.

False CTM is essentially the same but one of the threads is a fairly short, utilitarian length, and new thread is added at a distance. This new thread can be of same or different colour. 

It is a very convenient solution to -

• use up threads already on shuttles
• climb out for continuous work
• start with a chain
• start with 2 colours
• add a different colour, yet work continuously
• spot or localised treatment for mistakes

It avoids having to hide a lot of ends in a single element and allows tatter to choose a convenient location to add new thread/colour. 

This may not be new for most experienced tatters. For newer learners, I hope the listing will help.  

1. False ctm to climb out in continuous/one-pass tatting

1A. Mignonette and single-colour tatting :

I first remember hearing it in the Online Tatting Class with respect to mignonette. Mignonette is a single shuttle technique with tiny rings and tatters began pulling out a length of thread from their shuttle to work the few split rings required to climb out after each round, and work continuously. No more cut and tie and hide ends after each round.

1B. Multi-colour continuous tatting :

This is a doily where I used false ctm a few times, reducing the ends to hide and also tatting the next rounds continuously despite using different colours. Where possible, either the core thread or ball thread from previous round is continued, replacing only one thread to change colour.

TIP : How to add new thread to a chain is a very handy skill.

2. False ctm when starting with a chain

I always make knotless additions – tatting over tail(s), as can be seen in next examples. Follow your preferred method of starting/addition.

2A. False ctm in chain, adding to core thread, closest ring faces inwards (is to be worked with core thread). The chain will continue in same colour (mustard here), but the new core thread can be of different colour, hence rings will be in that colour. This works on a shuttle and ball pattern where the red shuttle can be a ball.

2B. False ctm in chain, adding to working thread, and closest ring is a thrown ring. Pull length from shuttle and use this for the chain stitches. 2 shuttles.

Notice and compare the position of pulled length, shuttle(s), nearest ring, etc. in 2A & 2B. It keeps the old & new shuttles in the right position to continue without the need for any SLT (shoe lace trick).

2C. False ctm in chain with starter picot, 
A dead end chain or one starting with a picot is best started with continuous thread. In cases where this is not possible, a false ctm is Ideal. Pull out a length to tat till we reach a point where new thread can be added and hidden easily.

I have covered this earlier, in 2017, along with a pdf of Starting with a Chain (and starter picot) in 2-Colour Tatting.  

But here is where and why it started - starting chain with false picot – Needleart 1921 edging #6 where I wanted a grape bunch with leaves effect. 

3. False ctm when correcting a mistake

Jane used it to correct a mistake and avoid hiding 4 ends in the same place. With a false ctm, she moved the starting knots on both threads further down, hiding ends in elements of her choice.

There are More scenarios when a false CTM is so handy! These will be in Part 2. I didn't go into too much details for each collage pic, since the main points are already covered at the start. However, if anything is confusing, please let me know what you want.

to be concluded in Part 2

UPDATE : Part 2 of False CTM posted here

vintage false CTM

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There are so many methods and even more combinations to add new thread to a work in progress lace. We came across Eleonore Endrucks' advice to fix mistakes in her 1920 book, 'Die Schiffchen-Spitzen'. Here is the translation - 

We now call it False CTM (false continuous thread method) and I have shared several scenarios and applications over time. Here, we limit ourselves to Endrucks' method, a variation of the same, and a knotless method.

All this has been presented as pictorials in this PDF - 

False CTM - Endrucks' Advice & Pictorials -https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_Jm7puHcMemY3lhwP2cP8G3EmcgamlVj/view

Since everything is already presented in the PDF, I will be brief here, with only a few selected pics. Please click on the link above to download the document.

1. False CTM - Endrucks' Method

Notice 1. the old tails tied together and the new ones tied together ; 2. the knots are far apart, with the new knot wound on the ball or 2nd shuttle, far from the point of attachment to the work in progress.. The blue thread between these two points creates the false continuous thread.

However, since the two tails (in each pair) are tatted over in the same element, it creates bulk. This can be countered to some extent by tatting very tightly.

TIP: Use a slip knot to tie the new threads (blue) so that it can be opened and the knot repositioned as desired.

2. False CTM - Variation of Endrucks' Method

In order to avoid bulk, here the old shuttle tail is tied with new shuttle tail and old ball/2nd shuttle tail to the new ball/2nd shuttle end. Preferably, maintain a distance between the two knots so that we have a continuous thread space to work with.

Look closely, all four tails are hidden (tatting over tails) in four different elements. The extra ends are trimmed later.

3. False CTM - Knotless Variation of Endrucks' Method

Knotting the tails can be completely avoided. Above the new ball or 2nd shuttle thread is being folded around the old tail and will be tatted over in the chain element. 

Similarly, the core thread can be added and worked over.

The other tail in each case can be sewn/whip stitched later, or pulled through stitches using a magic loop, etc.

The choice of the three methods would depend on the specific situation - how long are the old tails, etc.  The above is merely a small glimpse of the numerous ways in which we can apply false ctm. Some related posts/pictorials/PDFs -

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-1.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-2.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=false+ctm 

Tatting Over Tails (PDF updated from 2017) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kwszAseuEZqkMdXosfTHtXdw0diCwmKz/view

Starter Picot or Starting with a Chain (PDF) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vzSHMxas51Yn5iujdmror1obx27AuIhw/view

Hiding Ends and Adding Thread - vast compilation of options and tutorials - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html

Hope you find this helpful in some future situation. 

Starter Picot pictorials

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 Ninetta and I have been working on a resource page dedicated to the Endrucks 1920 Project. Over the years many tips and pictorials have been shared but they were scattered. In our attempt to finally gather and organise them, we discovered certain lacunae and decided to create pictorials and/or videos to address the issue. 

One such is the Starter Picot or Starting with a Chain. Elgiva Nicholls calls it the Link Loop or link loop picot. Several of Eleonore Endrucks' patterns in her 1920 book 'Die Schiffchen-Spitzen', start with a chain. She ties two threads together, and starts with a chain of 1ds, picot, and the rest of the chain. Of course most tatters now start directly with a picot and with continuous thread (CTM). Yet there are different approaches. Following are glimpses into the options detailed in the PDF which I won't repeat here....

Please note that this is a compilation sourced from various sites/blogs, some of which are no longer accessible. It is the reason Ninetta and I wanted a resource that did not have to rely on outside links, as far as feasible. The only outside link we included is for The Online Tatting Class, besides our own blogs. As it is my Tatting Resources page (tab above) lists tons of outside resources with credit. 

Starter Picot Options with Pictorials by Muskaan Oct2025 (starting with a chain) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vzSHMxas51Yn5iujdmror1obx27AuIhw/view

1. Starter Picot with paper clip, marker, or coilless pin.

Between the choice of spacers, I prefer the thread marker (or luggage tag loop) as you might remember from my past posts. I find it less interfering, and more importantly we can measure the picot to the exact size required - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2023/01/measured-picot-on-core-thread.html

2. Starter Picot with 1st half-stitch

or 2nd half-stitch

I left out this 2nd hs collage from the PDF since it is basically the same as the 1st hs pictorial.

3. Starter Picot with lock stitch

What happens when we want to work with two colours or we have leftover threads on our shuttles and wish to use them? Obviously CTM is not an option, but we do have False CTM. 

4. Starter Picot with false ctm in two-colour tatting

5. Starter Picot with false ctm in two-colour block tatting

The above collage was shared by Ninetta showing a two-coloured block in progress. And she starts the 1st chain with 1ds, picot like Endrucks. However, instead of tying the threads together, she uses the false CTM method.

For many more situations in which a False CTM comes in handy, click on the tag at the end of the post. I have two dedicated posts along with some specific projects where I used it. https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=false+CTM

Hope this is helpful in your future projects. 

beginning or ending …

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… it’s all a matter of perspective

Who knows when the beginning is and where the end. Who can be certain that the end is not the beginning. Who’s to say which is which. It’s all about perspective ! Like stairs going up or coming down ; glass half-full or half-empty ; or that a glass is never ever empty coz there’s always air in it?!

Okay I’ll stop messing with you and share an amazing video titled Smiling Face Cosmic Eye 

Next, in my bloglovin’ feed, I was captivated by an image of love & affection and hopped over to read more. It was my first ever visit to this blog and boy, was I glad. A perceptive writing and mantra to view the world & live by. 

This page has multiple updates since first posted.

Now to tatting and perspectives .... 

an annotated compilation of resource links 

for hiding ends in tatting

Are we starting or ending ?!

Many of us use the knotless method to start tatting – tatting over the tails either in the same element or in 2 different elements. Long before I encountered the vibrant tatting community online, I had figured out a way to start knotless. It is Method 2 diagrammed by Jane here. It works beautifully & is safe despite any amount of handling.

Conceptually the same method is recently demonstrated by Karen here. First-timers may find this easier to handle because the chain thread is inserted later. 

Ending just like we started

The very same concept can be applied when finishing off the round or piece, hiding the end tails without a knot. In response to Tim’s query, I had prepared a diagrammatic image & shared on Craftree, resulting in wholesome discussion. Those diagrams were done in haste, within minutes of reading the question. With time to review them, directional corrections have been made based on my TWoT diagrams.

Download pdf here : Hiding End Tails without Knot pdf  

A Knotless Method of Hiding the End Tails.

I do sometimes use an overhand tie before sewing under . 

Tatters might find it familiar. I’ve merely presented it as diagrams.

But it doesn’t end !

Oh no, there are numerous methods of hiding ends, some may even be spot treatments under specific circumstances. More the merrier – we all learn and absorb differently!

Choice of a method can be based on the thread size used, the thread quality/characteristics, individual tatting tension, individual comfort & skill, availability of resources, pattern specifications, and so on. Some resource links have been annotated in Hiding Ends here. More links are listed below, in no particular order (numbering is merely to keep track.) 

HIDING END TAILS (and old thread)

I . Some Basics of Hiding Ends/Tails

Georgia’s articles are a must read for an overall perspective :

Hiding Tails basics method  

Hiding Tails preferred method and

Planning for the end 

A Craftree discussion among varied tatters & tatting techniques on Hiding ends with good advice & tips.

More links can be found (and customized by user) in Eliz’s Element-al Approach to Tatting ... Techniques  including hiding tails in Cluny tatting, in Split Rings, etc.

UPDATE (Dec2023): Several methods explained.

II. Finishing with Single Shuttle Split Ring (SSSR)

A. When last ring is a free ring
If the last element of a pattern is a ring, one can apply single shuttle split ring method

For quite a while I used Miranda’s finishing with SSSR.  She highly recommends it for tatted jewelry.

Frivole has another pictorial on the same method, hiding both core & chain thread ends in the last ring, one on either side. 

UPDATE : video by Marilee

B. When last ring is attached
Now what if the last ring was also attached? To answer the question, let’s consider :

What is the basic necessity of a SSSR?  A SSSR requires something to anchor & secure the loop which is used for working the latter half of the ring. In case of unattached ring, it is the base of ring; this can be substituted with a thread or tail, that can come from different ‘sources’, and the method ‘tweaked’ accordingly. The tail could be from the first ring, or from a previous chain. Simple.

Here are Frivole’s instructions on hiding ends in SSSR. I have often used this.

C. For rings-only, bare thread (BTS) or single shuttle patterns

I haven’t come across any tutorial for this scenario. Nevertheless, one can use it with a bit of preplanning – do not tat over the tail in first ring. (if one forgets, see III below)

Tweak #1 :

In case of classic wheel (or the square motif pictured above) with BTS, leave a tail on the first ring. This is inserted into the last SSSR loop, before closing. Remember to leave the required BTS length while pulling it thru the SSSR. 

Tweak #2 :

If one is fearful of unraveling, leave BTS with first tail, tie a tight knot between the 2 threads and then begin the SSSR.

Overall Thoughts on the SSSR method of finishing :

Advantages : saves on sewing to hide ends ; no extra tools or preplanning required ; can be used in single shuttle, rings-only, and bare thread patterns as well

Limitations : if not pulled properly, the ring might distort ; ring should be large enough to hide ends – a minimum of 6 to 8 double stitches of loop tatting is ideal.

TIP : There is one tip I can offer when tatting an SSSR. Always begin the loop tatting from 2^nd half stitch (ie. in the middle of a double stitch). The loop seems to be slide more easily & smoothly when closing. Additionally, the end remains at the back of the work.

III. Hiding Ends in Bare Thread Patterns 

This can pose a bit of a challenge as we do not want a double-up bare thread.

Heather’s tatting pics make it very clear how to add new thread to a rings-only bare thread pattern, while hiding the earlier end tail, by tatting over tail. 

A self-explanatory diagram of Matthew Takeda method 

This Craftree thread discusses many methods, tips, and resources. 

Besides, the SSSR method can be used, as discussed in II.C. above, if pre-planned.

What if we forget to leave the tail on first ring ? Tat the last ring normally. Leave BTS and using a needle, pass this tail through base of first ring, and sew the tail in the ring stitches.

I have used variants of the SSSR method for a couple of years until whip stitching end tails took over since May of this year. I have totally stopped dreading sewing in tail ends and this method is easier on my eyes! Here’s a compilation of resources ….

IV. Different Ways of Sewing in Thread Ends

A. Whip Stitch

Carollyn’s Whip Stitching the end tails. This is the video that changed my ‘hiding’ perspective.

Ninetta had also posted this stepwise pictorial collage earlier 

I have found this method very simple, quick, does not add bulk or distort, and can be used to hide tails in 2-colour or variegated thread projects – once the whipped tail is tensioned, the colour blips disappear (can you spot the sewn-in tails in the Square Motif above ?

UPDATE : Needles used in hiding ends and related tips, including Whip stitch diagram pdf

B. Sewing under Caps

Jennifer Williams' diagrams on how to hide ends by sewing them in between the stitches. 

Lily Morales' Method for Hiding Ends - Sewing under caps between 2 double stitches

Jane Eborall's slight variation on Jennifer’s &  Lily’s method – sewing within every alternate double stitch.

Sharon’s method of adding in new thread is a tatted version of sewing under the caps !

I had followed Jon’s instructions on sewing under caps.

V. Tatting Over Tails

As the term suggests, one can hide tail ends by tatting over them. They are encapsulated within the stitches. It is used when starting the very first element of a project or row/round, or when the shuttle/ball runs out of thread midways and we need to add new thread, or we need to correct a mistake.

Gina Butler adding new thread using CTM shuttles, and taping both old tails(long) to shuttle and tatting over both tails (thus 3 core threads!). Reduces number of tails to hide, but preplanning required, as well as long tails, and it has the propensity to add bulk.

In case of shorter end tails, one can tape the tail to the core thread itself and tat, as diagrammed by Cactus. Tatting & handling becomes easier. 

Ann Wilson also has a tip.

I love to tat over tails. The first 2 starting tails are immediately taken care of – knotless, and no sewing ! It can be used to start absolutely any element - ring, chain, SR, SCMR, Cluny, ...(see V bleow). I hide the tails in different/opposite elements.

After tatting over tails, I prefer to leave short bits at the beginning of work (as seen in the pdf diagrams & my WIP pics in many posts). It helps me keep track of the front & back side, and also ensures that no accidental unraveling occurs.

Once the work is completed and all tails hidden, I tug at the short bits, just in case, and only then clip them flush.

UPDATE (Nov 16, 2016) : Eliz’s 2^nd comment (and excellent tip) reminded me of what I always do to keep the tail at back of work...... 

TIP : How to keep the tatted-over tail end at the back of work :

If one is tatting from the front side (DS), stop encapsulating the tail after a 1^st half stitch.

If one is tatting from the back side (RODS), stop encapsulating the tail after a 2^nd half stitch.

The reason will be clear if one observes the construction of each half stitch and where the core thread emerges. In 1^st half stitch, the core thread emerges towards the back; in 2^nd half stitch, it emerges towards the front.

While tatting over a tail, since the tail is parallel to the core thread, the above rule applies.
UPDATE (Aug 2017) : The above tip in pictorial pdf - Tatting over Tails - the Middle Path.

VI. Hiding Ends in Other Elements

A. Finishing on a Chain

Frivole shows us how to finish on a chain with no ends to sew in.

Do you see the similarity with the SSSR method ? Yes, finger tat with a loop on a chain instead of a ring.

For those who find finger tatting difficult, insert the loop into a shuttle & tat ‘normally’.

Read more about my trials here - a few methods to hide tails when ending with a chain.

UPDATE : SSSCh can be used to finish a floating chain as in a flower stem. 

UPDATE (Dec 2025):A slight tweak to Frivole's method of SSSCh is demonstrated by Marja Jalo in her Finnish finishing method.  

B. Hiding in Split Ring

Jane Eborall has diagrammed how to hide starting tail ends in both a split ring and a mock ring 

Gina Butler has 3 videos, including for hiding ends in a split ring.
UPDATE Aug 2018 : Hiding ends in split ring without sewing (when the last ring is a split ring).

C. Hiding in Cluny Tatting

Dagmar Pezzuto uses a floss threader in 2 colour cluny tatting to hide tails by Dagmar Pezzuto

Mimi Dillman’s tutorial link on how to hide ends in a Split Cluny is listed in Eliz’s Element-al Techniques document

My simple instructions on how to hide the tail ends within any cluny leaf 

VII. Magic Thread Trick (MTT)

This is another group of knotless ways to hide all tail ends – whether at beginning or at the end, without any need for sewing. It involves a bit of preplanning and additional material to make loops. The loops should be strong and as thin as possible to avoid loose stitches (or tat tightly), and unobtrusive.

A few links that show up some little differences, allowing us to choose what suits us best.

Heather’s How to Hide Ends with the Magic Thread Trick – post and video

Crazy Mom used a floss threader back in 2009. 

Debbie Drake’s magic thread loops diagrams  

Magic Thread/Loop by Dawne Marie - Comments at end of the post are equally enlightening.

Jane Eborall’s instructions & diagrams 

Gale’s working of the MTT   

Jon’s methods - sewing and magic thread

MTT for needle tatters 

UPDATE : Hiding Ends in a single ring pattern – Ninetta. This is an excellent application of Debbie's Magic Thread trick.

My short stint with MTT resulted in mixed results. Preplanning can become a habit. However, getting the right material sometimes becomes a problem. The loop (I used threads & dental floss) sometimes broke when pulling. The tug required enormous wrist strength. The loop can get in the way, if one is not used to them. If ending on a chain, there can be a risk of distortion if not pulled smoothly.

With so many other alternatives, I did not go back to this method. Many tatters swear by this method.

And then there’s the start !

One can’t have an ending without a beginning now, can one ?! Unless one begins with a continuous thread between 2 shuttles or shuttle & ball (CTM), one has to deal with ends at the start ! Annotating a few resources below.

ADDING NEW THREAD

See also Tatting Over Tails , Magic Thread Trick and Hiding in Split Ring above

Marilee’s pictorial to join new thread by tatting over tails 

Tamie, in the Beginner class video, uses a floss threader to tat over tails. 

For single shuttle rings-only pattern :

Edda Guastella  has a nice pictorial for adding new thread to bare thread pattern.

Charlene uses a weaver’s knot to add new thread in a mignonette pattern. 

I have already listed Heather’s method 

Matthew Takeda method of adding new thread. Diagram. Combines tatting over new tail & magic loop to hide old tail in a bare thread single shuttle pattern. One must remember to encapsulate the new thread before tatting the ring.
UPDATE 2018 : Adding new thread WITHIN a ring - a pictorial
Adding new thread to Bare Thread pattern - a pictorial

Mark Myers’ video on Adding New Thread - KnotlessMethod

A similar video by squash8424 - Adding new thread to old thread. It is a good method if adding same colour thread or if tail length is very short. Conceptually the same as Mark's method, except for the 1hs made with old tail to secure.

In both methods, I am a bit wary of hiding both tail ends on same side; along with the core thread, it makes 3 threads under a stitch, and can add to bulk & stiffness. Nevertheless, extreme situations may warranty such steps.
UPDATE : Adding thread with Lark's Head Knot video by Marilee. I used this very successfully here (& forgot - good thing blogging brings back memories) 

Adding new thread in needle tatting

Carolivy has shared two pictorials for adding new thread in needle tatting and clarifying problems.

See also Magic Thread Trick in needle tatting

Adding new thread on a chain

What is the ball or shuttle 2 thread needs to be added? Or it is chains-only pattern and one needs to add new thread? Or there is a mishap and spot treatment is required on a chain?

Ninetta has shared 2 ways – adding new core thread in a chain  and adding a new ball thread (or shuttle 2) in a chain

UPDATE - Using False CTM to add thread to core or ball/shuttle 2.  -

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-1.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-2.html

Or to add a new/different colour - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2020/04/what-social-distancing.html

Endrucks' use to fix mistake and variations, including in a block - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2026/05/vintage-false-ctm.html

The long and short of the tail, oops tale, it is that there is no one single method that is the best. It is up to the tatter to find her/his comfort method or situational method from this wide range of new and tweaked methods. One can use combinations or parts of two methods to take care of tails, as some of the links above show. One can also use the same method to start a new project/row/round, to add new thread, and to hide old thread.

Do you have one single go-to method to hide tails ?

Care to share more tips ?

Looking forward to your experienced inputs :-)

happy tatting with a :-)

ps - I will update my Resources page with a link to this post, instead of listing each & every one individually.

a friendly neighbourhood

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I count my blessings to have such talented and generous friends in my global/digital neighbourhood. Here are a few ‘gifts’ I gratefully received recently….

In the order they were worked....

Elizabeth’s doily Round Robin 15.

Jenni Clark (Liyarra) posted her beautiful pink version on facebook & I liked it for a snood. She shared the pattern with me. It is from an old blog ‘tattingroundrobin’. Does anybody have a link?

More rounds to go.

Not happy with my chains - some overlap. Not a problem as it will not show up when worn.  I used 2 colours to showcase the flower shape, the green showing up as foliage.

Does the center look familiar?  Yes, it's what started the whole False CTM exploration. And to think I started this as a slow side project to disengage my mind and focus on downsizing my UFOs ;-P

Spool Pin Doily 

Who else but Anita Barry can come up with a butterfly to place under the spool pin?! How cute to have a butterfly sitting pretty on the sewing machine, keeping an eye on our sewing (or current lack of it, in my case)?! She is making these to sell at fairs, etc. yet shared the pattern with me!

Again playing with colour placement and had to include some lavender! It is worked continuously using 2 shuttles.

Now this is an example where we can continue into next rounds using the same core thread (in this case the mustard) but adding new colours for each round since they are chains with thrown rings : false ctm! If only I had remembered ;-P

This time I simply twisted the long antennae picots when it was wet. One picot is missing on one of the purple chains - can you identify it?

Walla-Walla Sweet Onion Motif 

Kathleen J. Minniti is not only talented but also explains so well! I understood Aurora’s onion ring technique when Kathleen used it for my dancing peacocks doily! But she uses only a half stitch instead of a full ds to capture the inner ring. I do like this method!

She PM-ed this pattern a couple of months back, with 3 versions for the center leaf. The left motif has a dot picot tip, and right one has a bullion knot (which got pulled out when I closed the ring).

A clever feature of this motif is the captured picots! Multiple alligator joins across the same picot. The left one has smaller picots than the right one. I like it, but need more practice.

Both these patterns (butterfly & onions) can be worked in one pass using 2 shuttles.
We mostly get pink/red onions here, but I've eaten similar onions in Australia.

Bobble stacked rings

And finally below is my trial of Rhoda Auld’s bobble technique posted by Ninetta Caruso which she shared with everybody ;-D  
Here again, one captures the previous thread in the current ring. It reminded me of how Ninetta curled her small rings.

I wanted to see if a circle could be formed with the stacked rings and then to see how it works with different ring sizes. I want to use this in one of my snowflake centers. Many textured effects are possible with this technique! 

Captured together...the butterfly & onion motifs are worked with Anchor Pearl cotton size 8, and the bobble trial is in Anchor size 20. Elizabeth's doily measures 4½" so far in Anchor size 40.

You generous ladies have captured my awe and gratitude J