whipping up memories

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Remembering Carollyn Brown 

Diane shared shocking and sad news today – https://lacelovinlibrarian.blogspot.com/2021/09/memories.html

A virtual friend for real has moved to another realm taking her sweetness to share there.

I have lots of fond memories of Carollyn Brown in the short time we shared in cyberspace. And every time I whip stitch tail ends I think and thank her for finally removing the fear of hiding tail ends, and be neater too! She uploaded some videos as madtatter80  (https://www.youtube.com/user/madtatter80/videos) including her uniquely long Cluny leaves.

I first noticed her blog (https://tennbrown.blogspot.com/) when I found cute little tatted 3D flowers/sprigs! A flower a month was her personal project at the time and I would wait each month for it. Using fine threads was her forte and we can all recall her adeptness at it and her gorgeous doilies!

She could tat over and around literally anything! Be it real leaves, stones, keys, and the usual glass, baubles, buttons, and beads. But her talents were not limited to tatting. Scroll through her blog to see the wide range of skills she possessed and/or learned and applied!

In 2016, 4 of us participated in the Pinterest Challenge and she never failed to amaze me with her choice and execution of the month-end project. It also gave us an excuse to correspond and get to know each other a bit more. Always smiling always sweet.

It is such an honour that she tatted a few of my patterns and etched them in my memory forever. I had to poach this image from her blog, where she is modelling earrings from my wreath pattern. Before that she had made and modelled a brooch from my poppy pattern which became quite popular at the time.

Another admirable highlight of her blog has been her skill at calligraphy and of displaying her work in a variety of settings and placements, bringing in knickknacks in an aesthetic backdrop.

So much to learn from her, so much inspiration to emulate, so much diversity to soak in! Thank you for gracing my world, Carollyn, and leaving your indelible imprint. Keep spreading your sunshine beyond 💝💝💝

http://tennbrown.blogspot.com/2017/10/tatted-lace-poinsettia-earrings.html
https://tennbrown.blogspot.com/2014/11/tatted-lace-veterans-day-poppy-finished.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=Carollyn

wish to be a fish!

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Oh yes, you read it right! I do wish I could be a fish and stay in the water. It has been so horrid – hot and humid – here for the last 3 weeks that all one wants to do is laze in cool water or swim about like a fish. All energy is sapped out. We have been facing temperatures in the 110°F or 44°C range and no respite in sight.

So as I was saying, this adorable little fish tat-along came at the right moment!

I’ve admired this cute Kiss Kiss fish all along. Loaded my shuttles with thread and beads.

UPDATE : click to download Kiss Kiss Fish pattern pdf.

designed by Carollyn Brown

Size 20 Lizbeth – 132 Tropical Punch and 

pearl beads which are slightly larger than the required size 11

Day 1 – the tail fins and ventral part of the body.

Two long tails from each shuttle act as the padding for the body to allow the fish to keep it’s shape. I really like how she used the tails instead of adding thread separately!

Needless to say, the stitches are unflipped here (reverse stitch for encapsulation or padded tatting).

Day 2 – eyes, kissing lips and dorsal half of body.

With beads for eyes and lips in place, the encapsulation continues on. Dorsal and ventral fins are made with decorative picots.

After joining & knotting back to the tail fins, I simply tied a bow with the thread ends instead of hiding ends. Yup, lazy!

I thoroughly enjoy patterns that can be worked all from the front! And a sweet cute little fish is just so much fun! I do wish I could’ve taken pics against better background with seaworld props. But the weather does not permit all the physical activity involved ;-P I'm fried fish here ....

I intend to make this again with thread & bead sizes complementing each other. Perhaps then I will exert myself for a better background.

Carollyn has explained everything beautifully with stepwise pictures. She has given me permission to draw out a diagram for her patter pdf. So stay tuned to her blog !
It may be a small fish, but the designing is very clever - no small fry !

Thanks a heap, Carollyn, for this wonderful tat-along & pattern!

I still wish I could be this fish :-D

pattern and idea

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Pattern for the Poinsettia is ready!

Clover Wreath Poinsettia pattern pdf

My life has been quite scattered this entire month. Hence my disappearing acts ;-P

I do try to follow along, but leaving comments has been stymied due to erratic server on my desktop. Even this pattern and it’s conversion to pdf has been through a circuitous route through multiple devices. But I’d promised Carollyn! And the silver lining is that I learned something new!

This enclosed space medallion is constituted of inward facing clovers connected with chains and thrown/floating rings.

All beads are pre-strung and moved along the picot thread (not the core thread) – Nina Libin calls them “up’ beads.

In case of any doubts or questions, feel free to leave a comment or email me.

I hope you enjoy tatting this as much as I did.

UPDATE (Nov 3, 2017): Check how Carollyn adapted the pattern into lovely earrings using size 80 thread !!! I was thrilled to see them and the model too :-)

Meanwhile, I’ve been spending time joining the clover wreath medallions into mats. One coaster is complete & I have sketched a tentative edging for it. Need to put it to shuttles.

But here’s a peek into a bunting formation – just right for the holiday season if the colours are changed. Add a ribbon or straight header for hanging.  And if one wants triangles, simply join another medallion at the tip.

Here’s wishing I get more good days out of the server connection than bad ones :-D

My apologies for delays in responding to emails … 

happy tatting and  hope to stay in touch J

and options

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Renulek’s  Wiosna  Doily 2015

Rounds 8 & 9 

Last year I was amazed at how the same doily pattern, Renulek’s Spring Doily 2014 (my version here), took on a character of it’s own, changing appearance with the colour choices, placement choices, etc. that each tatter made.

But tatters don’t just have the option of colours, threads, & thread sizes. We can also make choices with regard to which/what technique to apply to each round, to best suit our requirements & our comfort ! Many paths to the same destination :-)

I have just started on Round 9 & would’ve ideally posted only after completion. However, since this is a tat-along, & there seems to be some interest in my earlier tips, I decided to upload my thoughts so that they may be of timely help, if required …. as it is I started late & am lagging behind ;-P

UPDATE (March 10, 2017) : For a simpler working of Round 9 see pictorial here with options for different colour placement,  too.

This is what worked for me for Round 9 of the Wiosna …

I have used single colour for entire round. Hence both shuttles are loaded CTM.

For those using 2 colours, you may switch colours using the SLT wherever necessary. Carollyn has posted some excellent how-to pics for 2-coloured Round 9,here.

Firstly, some pointers :

• Work this round counter/anticlockwise ! While all previous rounds were done/could be done in clockwise direction, this one Has to be tatted in opposite direction.
• It requires Directional Tatting. Hence a knowledge of Reverse Stitch (also called 2nd half of Split ring method, lark’s head knot,  unflipped stitches/hitches, encapsulation, etc.) is required.
• All tatting is done on the Front Side Only. Do Not Reverse Work at all !!! I learned this from tatting Teri’s Dandelion Chain Link Bookmark here.
• If one is not too experienced with this type of tatting, it is best to use single colour, so that any small mistake will not be easily apparent.
• I always find it less complicated to use 2 different types of shuttles since it is easy to keep track of which is Sh#1 & Sh#2. Or else, mark them.
• Lock Joins are made with the shuttle closest to the joining point.

The Process (Directional Tatting)

I will detail only the process. For exact stitch count of Round 9, please refer to the pattern here.

To Begin :

*** With Sh1,

Ring : start with the central ring normally (ds) . Close ring. Switch shuttles.

       With Sh2,

Ch1 : Reverse Stitch.  LJ with Sh1, to ring picot.

Ch2 : Reverse Stitch.  LJ with Sh1, to ring picot.

Ch3 : Reverse Stitch.  LJ with Sh1, to base of ring.

Ch4 : Normal ds , join to picot on round 8, continue ds chain.

Switch Shuttles. *** 

Repeat from *** to *** till end (72 total motifs/repeats)

The first ‘motif’ is complete. For all subsequent repeats, the 1^st side chain will be joined to the adjacent previous side chain in this manner : LJ with Sh2, to chain picot UPDATE : As pointed out by Ninetta in the comments below, instead of a LJ here, one could easily use the Split Ring or Lark's Head Knot Join. That would not only bring about neatness, but keep the core thread in play. Thanks Ninetta :-)

Continue in similar fashion for rest of the round.

To Summarize :

Work Only the Ring with Shuttle #1, and the Lock Joins to ring from the 3 chains going around it.

All the rest will be tatted using Shuttle #2 – the 3 chains around the ring, the chain joining to previous round, and the Lock Join when connecting to chain picot on previous repeat.

I am thoroughly enjoying this round – both for it’s beauty , the colour I’ve chosen , And for the option of using yet another technique learned earlier. The only minor irritant is that one has to unwrap the chain thread from one’s pinkie to make those LJs ;-P

Abbreviations used :

CTM – continuous thread method

SLT – shoe lace trick

Sh – shuttle

ds – double stitch

Ch – chain

LJ – lock join

Just a couple of lines regarding Round 8 :

It is a simple round, which can be done with single shuttle & ball, although I went with 2 shuttles.

I added a tiny picot at base of each chain (after 1st ds & before last ds) , joining adjacent chains for better anchorage & stability, just as I did in the previous round 7,here.

I’m not too happy with the long chains – there is some ruffling – but  am hoping that Round 9 will flatten it out.

And to repeat, there is no Single correct way of tackling round 9. One should choose what one is comfortable with. This can, however, also be a challenge to learn new techniques & applications.

UPDATE :

Well this post Is about  Options!

Optional  Process (Traditional tatting) :

Bernice mentioned in the comments below, that she was also working counterclockwise but was reversing work. This morning, as I continued my directional tatting, it suddenly hit me that this is Essentially the Same ! All I was doing was tatting from the front with no RW, while Bernice was tatting ‘normally’ ie., with normal ds & hence had to use RW.

I had to confirm it of course ;-P Yes, it worked great (the last 2 repeats in the pic). Looking closely, I think, in fact, these turned out better looking than the previous ones !

Note : 

Ring is made on the front side of the doily. Hence when work is reversed, we are on the backside, & you might need to make a Down Join to avoid colour blip if working with 2 colours.

Also, use SLTs when required if working with 2 colours. Carollyn has demonstrated this.

So, when one looks from the front side, one is tatting Counterclockwise, but with normal ds. 
In fact, if using a single colour, then one can even work with 1 shuttle & ball through the entire round, by doing just 1 SLT before each ring.

The ring is like a Thrown Ring - a ring on the long chain! 

Another option -- if working with 2 shuttles & single colour,  every alternate repeat will be made by the next shuttle.  If you started with Sh 1, next repeat will be with Sh2, then 3rd repeat with Sh1 and so on.  No SLT required. 

The Process
Make Ring . RW . (you can see the solitary ring in the pic on top right)

Work Ch1 & join to previous repeat (ch picot) using a Down Join.. LJ to Ring. DNRW.

Ch2 . LJ to Ring. DNRW.

Ch3. LJ to base of Ring . RW .

Long Ch . Join to previous round. ……

Please feel free to share how you are tatting/have tatted this round. Ideas multiply when we share :-)

happy tatting :-) 

Related Posts : Wiosna Rounds 1-5

Wiosna Rounds 6-7

treading lightly

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Yes, even an accomplished Master Tatter can make missteps and need to retrace her step. This post is filled with possible pitfalls and respective remedies as well as alerts and tips from Anita Barry. So, tread lightly as you dance along. The screenshots are straight from the horse's mouth ;-P

Carin Jansen’s Angel Choir doily TAL – Round 6 (continued) 

pattern - http://handwerk-fee.blogspot.com/2020/11/engelenkoor.html 

more notes on Round 6 - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/fixtrot-to-foxtrot.html 

Notes by Anita Barry -

Threads used for this project - DMC, Lizbeth,
and vintage J&P Coats size 80

1. Number of stitches per centimeter in size 80 -

First, a quick tip, since this doily has a lot of long chains.... This image is from Round 5

I checked mine after receiving this info from Anita, and turns out I had similar tension. This is a good way to maintain uniform tension on chains throughout the project. Design TIP - It is also a good measure for a designer to convey in such patterns (along with thread size).

2. Started Round 6 from wrong point and untidy attachment -

The left pic was shared at end of previous post ...

3. Missed a join and the fix -

4. Tools of trade and Marking frontside -

If you remember, Carollyn Brown ties a tiny thread bow to identify front of doily. These 'charms' are really helpful when working with fine thread in single colour, or if we use blipless joins. I generally work in multiple colours so the colour blips help me identify back of work.  

5. Missed a ring in trefoil and the fix - 

 

She almost snipped off the knotty segment, but wisdom prevailed ;-D At least one angel was watching over her shoulder, whispering in her ear!

I would've made a true ring, but Anita's solution goes to show the range of options we have! She also saved a few stitches on the chain.

TIP: Thread comes out in front from a 2nd half stitch and in back from a 1st half-stitch. Follow the opposite movement to untat stitches. Easy-peasy. Loosen the stitch loop, pass shuttle front to back through it to untat shs, and back to front to unravel fhs. These pics might help.

6. Uniformity and symmetry of arches -

Let's all wish a few of the angels from this doily keep Anita's tatting in check so she can dance freely rather than 2 steps front, 1 step back, right?! But as she wisely says, the take away from all these oops is Growth.

I've been receiving these pics and emails for the past several days and I completed my own doily 4 days back. However, some other collaboration has kept me too busy to post. Hopefully I'll be able to do a back-to-back post with my finale. 

I will also try to share pics of how far our tatters have progressed.

Join us and post your doily pics on Facebook or Just Tatting group using the tag #AngelChoirTAL.

Related Posts - 

Notes/thoughts on Round 1 ; Round 2 ; Round 3 ; Round 4 ; Round 5 ; more on Round 5 & Round 6 ; Anita's Round 6 ; 

Quick TIPS : Winding Threads & Yarns !

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4 Quick Ways

to wind thread/yarn for use in 2-shuttle tatting ;

track a multicolour yarn stash palette for crochet/knitting ; &,

convert hanks/balls into skeins for embroidery.

I. Winding Thread, CTM

Inspiration : Susan BT

All these years, I had been tatting with one shuttle & ball directly. I would buy at least 2 balls of same colour so that the shuttle could be loaded from one ball, while the 2^nd ball stayed attached to the work being tatted. It reduces the number of ends to hide, too, especially when working with single colour & long edgings, etc.

But when I started tatting with 2 shuttles, & the pattern asked for Continuous Thread Method (CTM), I would measure the length of thread required for shuttle #2, cut it from the ball, & then start winding the shuttle from this end.

Obviously, long lengths meant taking care of all the tangling; one had to work in a large open space to keep the thread from entanglement.

Then I came across this idea shared by Susan, on the erstwhile InTatters : she uses a cardboard to “hold” the thread ….. Read on …

All you need :

Shuttles – 2 &  Thread , of course.

A cardboard, a broad thread winder or a temporary ‘holder’ (I used my spectacle case )

When winding 2 shuttles CTM : 

Fig 1.

Fig 2.

After winding 1^st shuttle normally, continue winding the thread on another piece of cardboard or, in my case, I used my reading glass case which was at hand (Fig 1). Wind to desired length. When one knows the length of 1 complete circle around the holder, then the number of rotations/rounds will give you the total length !

Cut thread. (Fig 2).

Fig 3.

Now reverse-wind from holder, starting from the cut end, on to the 2^nd shuttle, till all the thread on the ‘holder’ is over (Fig 3)! Simple !!!

Advantages :

1. No Long tangle-prone threads to manage ! Winding is easy, smooth & fluid.
2. No twisting or knotting of thread while winding. Since there is ‘reverse’ winding from holder back to shuttle #2, the initial twisting gets neutralized to a large extent.
3. Any possible twisting can be Easily taken care of by suspending Shuttle #2 itself. With a loose end, it becomes difficult !
4. And the Icing on the Cake : No more measuring with arm span or measuring tape …. One can measure the required length by simply counting the number of winds on the holder !!! The holder acts as a Gauge.

eg. one complete round around my spectacle case = 6½’ ;

40 rounds = 260’ or 6.6m

This is just enough to fully load the bobbin of the blue plastic Shuttle #2 in fig !

For my steel Shuttle #1, where I now use sewing bobbins, 45 rounds are required.

And clearly, if one needs a specific shorter length, that can be easily calculated. All one needs to know is the length of 1 single complete wind around the winder/holder. And then simply keep count of the number of rounds one is winding !!!

Check out Carollyn's superb tip here, when using 2 colours together ....

My sincere thanks to Susan for this simple, yet practical & effective idea, & for allowing me to share it here.

                      **************** 

II. Quick & Handy Yarn Stash Samplers

Inspiration : Lucy (Attic 24)

Since I’m talking about threads, organization & winding, here’s another quick tip I’d like to share.

I first came across it here. Since I do not have the wooden clothes pegs she uses, I took the first thing that came to hand : index cards from days of yore !

Simply Cut & Folded them into strips.

Wound samples of wool around part of it.

Hid the starting end as I began winding ; hid the tail end by pulling/pushing through the center of the folded paper.

Wrote the amount of thread I had on top (I did not mention the weight coz do not require it).

Wrote some additional details such as brand, dye & lot details wherever necessary, within the fold. One can write any and all details wherever & as one wishes…. This was not part of my current requirement, hence I limited the details to suit my current project.

My intention in doing this is very simply to track all the possible ‘scrap’ colours so that I can decide the combos as well as sequence when I crochet the diamonds/squares.

And it has worked very well !!! I do not have to keep rummaging through the whole big carton of wool to find combinations ; simply choose from the strips & then pick out the ball.

TIP : Another level of organization : The balls are sorted according to main colour & kept in transparent bags inside the carton. eg. all blue shades in one, all purple shades in another, all brown shades in a third, & so on.

The immediate reason for this organization is the Floral Fiesta Afghan designed by Maggie Weldon I have started for this winter, the reason I needed to see the yarns & shades I wanted to use & their approximate quantity. More about the project in future .

I thank & highly recommend Lucy's blog Attic 24 for the sheer magic & inspiration of her colour palette artistry ! Lots to learn, too.

 ****************

III. From Hanks to Skeins !

In keeping with this “thread”, here is my answer to a query Deepa left in this post on how to convert hanks into balls :“Now I am wondering how to convert a hank to small skeins, as in embroidery threads. There must be some way to wind them in that manner as anchor or DMC does.”

All you need :

Hanks of embroidery thread

Cardboard (6.5 inches across)

Paper strips/tags

Glue & scissors

Pearl-headed Pins for 2^nd technique.

An Anchor Embroidery skein is 8m long with about 24 ½ complete rounds, where the diameter (or length from end to end) is 6.5’ or 16.5”.

[ (6.5’ x 2) x 24.5 rounds ] = almost 8m

1. Using Cardboard :

  

The lid of a tea bag carton is the exact length one wants (6.5 inches) as can be seen in the pic.

Wind around (I used wool so that each round is easily visible); trying to keep each round adjacent rather than jumbled up. After 24 ½ rounds, cut thread. Make sure to keep the finishing tail end visible, towards the outer side, so that one can tug at it easily. The starting end is neatly hidden in the depths.

If thread details are required, add a paper tag around the newly wound skein.

2. Using Headed Pins :

Pearl-headed pins are used, spaced at 6.5’, around which the thread is wound. Use at least 2 pins at each end for stability.

To start off, make a small open knot & hold it with a pin, otherwise this end will keep flopping about & one will not get a tightly wound skein.

The slip of white paper is for the tag, with details written on the side that is hidden from view. When the 24.5 rounds are complete, glue the tag paper around the skein, like a hollow cylinder, & carefully remove the pins on either side. Voila !

It is easier to tag when using pins, obviously.

  

You can wind it in the form of ‘8’, but I would suggest against it – it will be a bit difficult to pull out the thread when needed later.

I hope this is of some help, Deepa ? For some lovely embroidery & related tutorials, check out  her blog “This and that...my random thoughts” for some lovely embroidery & tutorials.

****************

Have a great day :-)

Related Post : Winding Shuttles CTM

gauging the lie of the land

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(Common Threads III)

When making a picot in tatting, there are mainly 2 factors involved.

Which 2 factors ? – the half stitch(s) on either side of a picot and the position of picot gauge !

An interplay of just these factors can change the look and effect of the picot, as well as it’s functionality.

Comparing 3 types of picots here - interlocking, Mrs. Mee, & tuft - got me thinking about picot gauges. Gauge position was very interesting.

It started as a deconstruction of the 2 factors in various picot types we know of, but that is a Huge study and I’ve only just bit a small morsel at present and will require more time and concentration than I can manage at present. But keep an eye out …

For the present, I’m sharing only the various positions of gauges (that I know of. I welcome more input).

Picot Gauge in relation to Core thread

& where the stitch faces

Vertical v/s Horizontal

These are the standard options that we are all aware of.

I’ve used a 8mm gauge vertically and a ½in gauge horizontally.

Notice (in traditional tatting) -

In normal rings and chains the gauge lies above the core thread, whether it is held vertically or horizontally.

Vertical position -  picot has the hand (for ring) or ball (for chain) thread wrapped around both sides and we get the same size of picot as the width of gauge. Stitch is formed at the base of the gauge since gauge is at right angles to the core thread.

Horizontal position – the hand/ball thread lies across the entire width of gauge and the resulting picot is half the length of the gauge. Stitch is formed at the side of the gauge since gauge is parallel to the core thread.

Common practice is to RW – reverse work after a ring to tat the chain. But what if we don’t RW, and work the chain directly using unflipped stitches?

Carollyn pointed out an interesting aspect with beautiful pics here.

(in direct tatting)

If chains are tatted directly using reverse stitch ie. unflipped stitches in reverse order, then the gauge is held below the core thread, vertically or horizontally.

It holds true for reverse rings and 2^nd side of split ring as well .

This establishes that where the stitch faces while tatting decides where the gauge is held!

Picot Gauge in relation to Core thread & the Half stitch

Now let’s bring in one more factor – the half stitch where the picot is to be made.

In all the following pictures, I have used the 8mm gauge vertically.

Picot is simply a length of bare thread between 2 half stitches.

Let’s tackle the fhs - first half stitch first.

After 4 stitches, we want to make a picot followed by a fhs. Above pic shows fhs being formed. Let’s call the left part the arch which will be compressed into a picot, and the right part is the loop of the half stitch.

Gauge is held above core thread, under the arch.

Inset pics show the completion of the process to form 1 picot.

Gauge is held above core thread, through the loop.

Gauge is held below core thread, through the loop.

Similarly for shs – second half stitch.

Gauge is held above core thread, under the arch.

Gauge is held above core thread, through the loop.

Gauge is held below core thread, through the loop.

Can you identify the gauge positions for regular picots, interlocking picots, Mrs Mee picots, and the tuft picots that were described in this post ?

If this seems confusing, pick up some scrap threads and give it a quick try to discover the joy of versatility! And like I said, this is only a tiny glimpse into the beautiful world of picots.

Happiness lies at the Core of Tatting !

Stay happy stay tatting always :-)