stop tatting

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Not literally, of course! But do read on for the full story ...

I didn't want to bore you with the continuing saga of my Just So Coaster, but it is one of the few pieces of tatting I can show at present; one of the very few that doesn't need too much effort to present. 

After round 5 the only thing I was sure about was to bring back the cream shade from round 3. After rejecting several design ideas, when I finally zeroed in on what felt good, I started second-guessing my choice of the shade. Asked hubby (all cream or cream rings with pink chains) and he said go ahead with all cream cautioning me that I would need to add another round with the dark pink shade outlining the piece. No problem, it was intended!

This is another scroll round with a slight difference. That is Not gapsosis you see between the triad rings. It is a deliberate design element and a version of stacked rings. Last year Anita Barry reworked a doily from the 1970s (by L. Uteg) which had 7 or more such contiguous rings with bare thread deliberately left at the base to maintain the curvature of the round and also act as a picot for joining future elements/rounds.

I only used three rings per set so it is essentially a trefoil here with overlapping rings.

ROUND 6: A scroll with stacked ring sets.

Start with the 1st ring and move counterclockwise.

Each ring has 14 stitches and is joined in the middle to a picot on Round 5.

Chain counts are inked in the model above, with a lock join to Round 5.

TIP: For the mirror-image sets, each subsequent ring is worked or positioned 'above' the other. In the right set, leave a bit of bare thread space (yes, gapsosis!) between each ring and while joining to the previous round, position it behind the previous ring.

In size 10 Anchor Knitting Cotton, and after 6 rounds, the coaster now measures 15.5cms in diameter.

Sadly the pics don't do justice to how beautiful it really looks on my glass dining table. Anyways, when I showed hubby the coaster, he said stop tatting! It looks complete and beautiful just as it is, Just So! 

Yes, I agreed. I will certainly stop with this piece since I wouldn't know what to do with this thick 'hot pad?' when it grows larger.

However, I'm not done designing. I still feel the urge to continue with more rounds. The only way out is to start afresh with size 20 or 40 crochet cottons. Let's see ....

Related Posts
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/04/just-so-tatting.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/05/comfort-tatting.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/05/identity-tatting.html

happy surprise

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I was tatting a sampler last night to show placement of beads. In my head was a possible zigzag effect but was so happily surprised to see this shape - such graceful arches! 

On pondering, it is 'elementary' - since the stitches all face the same direction, the broader waistband of the stitch creates an uneven arch -- the same reason why a normal tatted chain curves!

I haven't decided how to put this effect to use - possibly a necklace or even a bracelet? 

It would've been even better if the beads were all the same size. Overall the chain remains straight.

If anybody is interested, here's the 'pattern' for Beaded Scallops:

    One shuttle and ball, both pre-strung with seed beads.

    [ 1 ^b_b 1 ^b_b 1 ^bbb_b 1 ^b_b 1 ^b_b 1 ^b_bbb ] repeat for desired length.

The 'up' bead(s) are on the ball or picot thread ; the 'down' beads are on the shuttle or core thread. The red beads are on ball thread and the green on shuttle thread.

TIP: Be careful while snugging the cluster of 3 down beads and 1 up bead to avoid gapsosis. I left the shuttle thread a bit loose, made sure the up bead was positioned and snugged properly, then tugged on the core thread to snug the down beads. 

It might've been done before, obviously. However, this is my very own experiment and trial which threw up an unexpected effect. In fact I had first loaded all my beads on only one thread and it was only when I started tatting that I realized my mistake and went back to string beads on both threads ;-P

Happy happy dance!

impressions

Pin It now! Another gapsosis in my blogging! However, this time I have been busy with editing, reviewing, proofing, pdf-isation, and yes, actual Tatting! I try to juggle both my time and my tasks to accommodate and make progress on each front.

This is what I am currently tatting, although there is a lot more to come.... I couldn't resist showing you a little peek. This month's game in our EP FB group was to use at least two colours in a select range of 7 edging patterns, where the motifs resembled a tree. 

I intended to add beads for additional colours and symbolism, but found they were mostly too large for the size 40 threads I chose.

However, I did use symbolism in terms of shades and picot numbers and sizes. 

All tatted with one shuttle (with green) and ball (brown), using reverse join or simple transposing of threads to keep the shuttle in play.

Can you identify the impression I am trying to convey here? Pretty straightforward I would think ;-P

Mind you there are mistakes in three of the motifs; only the topmost center is correct. I don't know what my issue was - eyesight, maths, or the chains. Thankfully trees don't have to be symmetrical and I doubt anybody can identify the mistakes at a glance.

Perhaps it is a phase I am going through, 'coz I miscounted the number of repeats in a doily/coaster I was test-tatting and reviewing for Ninetta! Fortunately the 7 repeats instead of 8 worked out fine, too, and it turned into a variation.

The above pattern is the modern reworking for Endrucks' pattern #14 by Ninetta Caruso and the pdf can be downloaded from the EP doc. She has done an excellent job of diagramming and writing the pattern, including a corner adaptation. (links on the right panel, top).

inward picot with marker

Pin It now! Often a picot is required on the core thread. But when the core thread is pulled to snug stitches, the 'picot' would disappear! In order to hold this picot in place till we need it for joining, a temporary marker or holder is inserted in a loop of the core thread. Most common is the paper clip, but coil-less safety pin, scrap thread, stitch marker, etc, are also employed.

TIP: Always remember that the thickness of the marker/holder will affect the size of the picot formed. Hence choose a marker carefully.

This is a common enough picot and you must have your own method down pat. But if I am not careful mine turn out to be fiddly to handle (with marker getting in the way) and untidy or twisty. Yet this method gives the best visual result. So here's what I do to keep the inward picot tiny and neat ---

Inward Facing Picot in normal tatting –

1. Pull a longish loop of the core thread. Make the first DS. Then insert marker.

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/07/double-duty-due-to-delegated-dusting.html

2. Continue to tat at least 2 to 4 stitches, before snugging the stitches and closing the loop.

Advantages –

1. Avoids any gapsosis in the knotting/chain thread, keeping the stitch before and after the picot close together.
2. The picot on the core thread remains tiny or the required size.
3. No twisting of chain/element.
4. The marker does not get in the way of working.

2 motifs/repeats have been worked above....

...and when it is time to join, remove the paperclip and join through that tiny loop, taking care to not let it slide and hide! A crochet hook is handy.

Inward-facing picots in direct tatting – 

For direct tatted chains, where reverse (unflipped) stitches are worked, Ninetta demonstrates how she twists the marker to hold the picot in place. https://youtu.be/d02yb-cKSLI 
This twist makes it easier to hold the picot and work unhindered.

TIP: It is important to realise that this twist adds some length to the picot. Hence choose a marker that is finer than the required picot size.
        Alternate solution: Once all stitches are completed in that chain, untwist the marker and pull the core thread taut. This will bring the picot to desired size.

We can actually use this twist for the normally tatted chain, too, instead of leaving the loop long as photographed above. And when it is time to snug, untwist and remove slack from the core thread.


There are many other ways to make such inward, downward, starter, or drop picots (https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2017/10/fun-or-fan-in-direct-tatting.html). Since the most common is using a paperclip the above tips are limited to markers. 

This post is in response to a recently raised query. 

thrown, floating and 8 rings

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Please note that the post and pdf have been updated on 30th August 2021. In case you already downloaded the pdf, kindly click on the link to refresh the document.

Tatting with an international community throws up interesting facts and ideas. All patterns in Endrucks' (1920) book use 2 shuttles and has plenty of rings made by switching the shuttle in hand - you guessed it - thrown rings! However, as Ninetta pointed out, a lot of Italian tatters have mastered the art of tatting with a single shuttle and ball, and adapting any pattern to suit this. It got me thinking about all the various ways in which we throw off a ring and here is the result of that exploration/stream of thought.

Thrown Ring Methods - a Ready Reckoner. click this link to download the complete document - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PhXhtq9K-WiUbys0dwwZuOIat10hGlB0/view which contains pictorials for each method as well as patterns to practice. Included at the end is a list of Needle tatting resources. 

For several of the patterns, despite having a pdf, I had to give the link to the blog post because the pdf link just wouldn't work the moment I converted this doc into a pdf. Probably some formatting glitch.

 

Following is a limited glimpse into each method. 

Gapsosis - A frequently asked question is how to avoid any bare thread/gap between the chain and the thrown ring. Above is an old pictorial I had done in response to this very question, where we have a trefoil instead of a single ring thrown off the chain - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2017/05/squirreling-away-gapsosis.html. 

1. Using 2 shuttles. I prefer this method except when I want to create a point in the chain where the ring is.

A thrown ring does not necessarily have to be floating above a chain or ring! It can lie above a join, between 2 chains, and can also face inwards.....

While this 8-ring appearance may not use the term thrown ring, the blue ring is made exactly according to any of the TR methods (in above case, with 2nd shuttle). 

Several other effects can be seen in the above model. Can you identify the thrown ring(s) in each?

NOTE: Although not shown in the pictorials, the pink ring need not be alone. We can have 2,3,or more rings below, with 1 or more TRs above!

All the rest of the methods are made with one shuttle and ball. Compare the colour of the TR and the chain curvature between each method. It is very important that chain stitches are snugged properly before attempting the TR.

2.A. Flipped-Up ring is simply a normal ring that is turned upwards before continuing with the chain.

2.B. Since I didn't like the way it sat, I tweaked it by stabilising and centering the TR with on overhand tie and keeping the ball in front of the work.

3. Loop Tatted Ring can be used to throw off a ring as well.

4. We all know that the Self-Closing Mock Ring is often used to deliberately create a pointed chain - whether it is a 1ds SCMR or a larger thrown ring.

Direct Tatting. In certain cases, it is easy direct tat a chain and throw off a ring, using single shuttle and ball. Tatting will move from right to left, but the shuttle will be in position to make a thrown ring.

Even if the shuttle is not in position, it can be brought to where we need it, by the following 2 methods -

5.A. Twist Work - I start by making an unflipped half-stitch but instead of snugging. I pull the shuttle upwards (or downwards, if required) such that the threads now switch position and I have the shuttle where I need it. I had explained it here to switch threads after a lock join - 

 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nRj_48VHK2LjhcxdQnirXBVweKO6h2ow/view 

5.B. Shoe Lace Trick - we all know this, but I avoid it and prefer other repositioning methods, including twist work. Jon Yusoff has explained this method very nicely here (wish I could get my SLT to behave so well!) - https://tatsaway.blogspot.com/2010/05/sometimes-you-dont-need-two-shuttles.html  

6. Changing Course - When another row/round follows the one with thrown rings, one can choose to shift the rings to the next row/round and make them normal rings. Obviously the direction of the rings will change, and sometimes it may cause ruffling/cupping/distortion. However, it worked fine in the above version - those purple rings were supposed to be thrown rings from the previous round, but I wanted this colour here, hence.... https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/06/valley-of-flowers.html 

I tatted this twice! My intention was merely to showcase the different effects when using each of the methods (lower scroll). But then somebody asked whether I had a tutorial actually showing how to do a thrown SCMR. So, I started over, taking stepwise pics for each method. 

And now I'm calling it a Ready Reckoner (RR), because as far as possible, I have included everything we'd want to know about Thrown or Floating Rings. I would love to get your feedback on this format and exercise. I already have another RR on the way that was started in July in response to a friend's request for help. 

Click to download complete pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PhXhtq9K-WiUbys0dwwZuOIat10hGlB0/view 

fixtrot to foxtrot

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This post covers Anita Barry's round 5 and my round 6 of Carin Jansen's Angel Choir TAL doily. But the highlight is the fix that she employed! Read along ....

Detailed notes on Round 5 including climbing out options are covered in my previous post here.

This is a beautiful composition where the angels seem to be dancing under blue skies. Love the ombré effect of the gentle blues Anita has chosen! 

'All rings that join are frontside up and everything else is backside. Easy to keep track of frontside/backside elements.'

She used the pink lipstick case to carry the WIP doily around. Clean and easily portable.

She 'felt this round was long', even though 'the stitch counts are easy to remember and joins are simple'. Often one's mental state affects one's perspective, doesn't it? And it leads to frequent mistakes, sigh. Which is what happened.

Notice anything amiss? I didn't until she pointed it out....

'One too many chains one too many rings. I decided to sew the extra chain and the extra ring behind two other rings. I doubled them up rather than weakening the project by cutting it. The double layer doesn’t show much. I needed to look thru a magnifying glass to see where to stitch.'

We can see she is bringing the extra ring to lie behind the clover ring and the chain folds over as well. Then sewing down both!

Here's how The Fix looks (not blocked yet). Love her tip about maintaining strength of project with this fix. 

More tips in next post!

I made a mistake by notating Jan on my pics! Hence am including the next round in same post rather than spend more time in resizing and notating pics again!

Carin Jansen’s Angel Choir doily TAL – Round 6 

pattern - http://handwerk-fee.blogspot.com/2020/11/engelenkoor.html

Techniques : 2 shuttles (ctm if one colour used), thrown rings (trefoil), lock join, SLT if 2 colours are used alternately.

Optional Techniques : climbing out/climbing in, Reverse Join (RJ) instead of lock join and SLT in 2-colour version.

[all tutorials can be found here with several more options]

Carin already has detailed instructions for each round. We are merely sharing our thoughts and ideas, with no reflection on her excellent presentation and design. Many thanks again for sharing.

One can climb out of round 5 into round 6 for continuous tatting. Pathways for different scenarios are already explained here (scroll to end).

Long chains again in this round - remember to keep snugging stitches regularly (don't wait till end of chain to snug) and make sure all stitches are in place before making the lock join.

After the lock join, I continued with only 2nd half stitch, counting this as part of the stitch count. I do this whenever adjoining chains make an acute or sharp angle. I find it keeps the adjacent chains neat and flat, with no overlap. 

Here's a pictorial on how to avoid gapsosis and keep the rings and chain flushed neatly when making thrown trefoils.

In alternate arches (which are not joined to the thrown ring below), I made the upward moving chain, switched shuttles to make trefoil, switched shuttle again, followed by 1 unflipped half stitch to create a point, before moving down to complete the other chain.

I did this because all arches looked a bit pointy in Carin's models. However, my attached repeats have curvier chains. 

The entire round is worked from the front in clockwise direction.

In Lizbeth size 80, it measures 16.5 cms now.

And another Oops from Anita, poor darling - 

Started round 6 at the base of the clover instead of the tiny picot above single ring. Needs another fix!

Life intervenes to make our lace miserable ;-P It's been 6 years since she last worked with size 80 and her eyesight is failing her this time. Motor memory and reflexes, along with magnifiers, have stepped in. 

Join us on Facebook using the tag #AngelChoirTAL on your timeline and/or the group Just Tatting.

Related Posts :

Notes/thoughts on Round 1 ; Round 2 ; Round 3 ; Round 4 ; Round 5 ; more on Round 5 & Round 6

 

the dance continues

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One more round completed. 

Carin Jansen’s Angel Choir doily TAL – Round 5 

pattern - http://handwerk-fee.blogspot.com/2020/11/engelenkoor.html

Techniques : 2 shuttles ctm, clover, thrown ring.

Optional Techniques : fs/bs tatting, continuous tatting (climbing out - see detailed notes below)

[all tutorials can be found here including alternatives and needle tatting tutorials]

This is the beginning where tails are hidden under a few stitches in separate elements. And this is how work progresses when we start with the clover.

Please note that the count (4) for one segment of middle clover ring is missing in the pattern diagram (but clearly mentioned in written pattern). 

When seen from the front, round moves counterclockwise. However the chains and one thrown ring are worked backside in directional tatting.

As pointed out in previous post we could have climbed out from round 4 to round 5 without cutting threads, by working a short split chain in the end, and then a split ring for the middle ring of clover. Since I wanted new colours for this round, I started fresh.

In Lizbeth size 80, the diameter is now 15.5 cms between tips of thrown rings.

This is another beautiful round - the arches with thrown rings create an elegant outline and this is another round where one can stop, if so desired.

Uggghhhh this close-up reveals a couple of round 3 (green) chains have become distorted! Oh well, if I had pinned the doily while blocking (instead of using rolling pin) I could've shaped them. I went back to check previous pics, and I think a couple of those chains were not tensioned adequately, sigh.

One needs to be careful to leave the tiny picot at base of single side rings as instructed by Carin! I forgot the first few times and had to retro-tat. Thankfully I caught them before starting next ring, except once. Yay I could untat a ring in size 80 but hopefully never again. 

Clovers are good practice to avoid gapsosis.

NOTES for one-pass/continuous tatting between Rounds 5 and 6 : 

1. When Round 5 is started fresh - If you wish to climb out of round 5 to round 6, start with any of the single inner rings (#5 or #9 in pattern) rather than the clover. This way the round will end at the exact point where round 6 will start!

2. When Rounds 4 and 5 are continuous - In this case, as pointed at beginning, we start round 5 with the middle ring of clover, and continue tatting in counterclockwise direction. In this scenario, in order to climb out to round 6, leave bare thread after ring #9 for a split chain, tat the 1st ring of the clover, and 
then work back over the bare thread to make split chain and both threads are in position to start round 6.
    Obviously, it works more easily when working with single colour, but ingenious tatters have found ways to work with 2 colours, hiding the unwanted as required. All tutorials listed in the Resources page (tab on top).

My round 6 is laid out to dry. Will post soon and hopefully with pics of Anita Barry's completed round(s) as well. Needless to say, I am enjoying this lovely project and learning a bit more each time.

If you wish to join us on facebook, upload your pics under #AngelChoirTAL in your timeline &/or in Just Tatting group and let us know. Rose D had also started, but now I cannot find her pics :-( 

Related Posts

Notes for Round 1 ; Round 2 : Round 3 ; Round 4 ; Round 5