inward picot with marker

Pin It now! Often a picot is required on the core thread. But when the core thread is pulled to snug stitches, the 'picot' would disappear! In order to hold this picot in place till we need it for joining, a temporary marker or holder is inserted in a loop of the core thread. Most common is the paper clip, but coil-less safety pin, scrap thread, stitch marker, etc, are also employed.

TIP: Always remember that the thickness of the marker/holder will affect the size of the picot formed. Hence choose a marker carefully.

This is a common enough picot and you must have your own method down pat. But if I am not careful mine turn out to be fiddly to handle (with marker getting in the way) and untidy or twisty. Yet this method gives the best visual result. So here's what I do to keep the inward picot tiny and neat ---

Inward Facing Picot in normal tatting –

1. Pull a longish loop of the core thread. Make the first DS. Then insert marker.

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/07/double-duty-due-to-delegated-dusting.html

2. Continue to tat at least 2 to 4 stitches, before snugging the stitches and closing the loop.

Advantages –

1. Avoids any gapsosis in the knotting/chain thread, keeping the stitch before and after the picot close together.
2. The picot on the core thread remains tiny or the required size.
3. No twisting of chain/element.
4. The marker does not get in the way of working.

2 motifs/repeats have been worked above....

...and when it is time to join, remove the paperclip and join through that tiny loop, taking care to not let it slide and hide! A crochet hook is handy.

Inward-facing picots in direct tatting – 

For direct tatted chains, where reverse (unflipped) stitches are worked, Ninetta demonstrates how she twists the marker to hold the picot in place. https://youtu.be/d02yb-cKSLI 
This twist makes it easier to hold the picot and work unhindered.

TIP: It is important to realise that this twist adds some length to the picot. Hence choose a marker that is finer than the required picot size.
        Alternate solution: Once all stitches are completed in that chain, untwist the marker and pull the core thread taut. This will bring the picot to desired size.

We can actually use this twist for the normally tatted chain, too, instead of leaving the loop long as photographed above. And when it is time to snug, untwist and remove slack from the core thread.


There are many other ways to make such inward, downward, starter, or drop picots (https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2017/10/fun-or-fan-in-direct-tatting.html). Since the most common is using a paperclip the above tips are limited to markers. 

This post is in response to a recently raised query. 

2nd shuttle or ball

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 A question was asked recently in the context of a specific pattern. The pattern contained chains that faced opposite directions in an edging. It would be an easy "switch shuttle" if one were to use 2 shuttles. But she wanted to know if it could be done with one shuttle and a ball?

Yes! Of course, the easiest way is to do a shoe lace trick (SLT) or overhand tie, but you know I avoid it as much as possible, preferring other options such as Reposition, Twist Work, Reverse Join, and/or Reverse Stitch, whichever is most effective at the time. (See https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2020/07/lock-join-plus.html)

Here's a quick sampler I tatted to show one way of  How to Avoid Using 2 Shuttles - using direct tatting.

Please note that this is Not the original pattern, though the general shape, and direction of each element, is similar. I also made up my own stitch count.

1. I started with the middle ring, unsure how long the leftover thread would last. But basically, we are tatting ring and chain segments, reversing work (RW) each time.

2. Now here is where the chain changes direction and our single shuttle is not in position. To bring it in position, either do a SLT, or follow what I did -

Turn work (as if turning the page), and direct tat the chain ie. with unflipped or reverse stitched (as in 2nd side of split ring).

Notice the chain takes the colour of shuttle thread, unlike the previous chains. 

3. Reverse work after completing the segment. This brings the shuttle to the top ...

4. .... and tat the 1st ring of next repeat. It looks like a thrown/floating ring.

5. Rest of the motif is again worked as alternate chains and rings, with RW between each element. Repeat the direct tatted chain and continue for desired length.

TIP: If you want all chains to have the same colour, SLT or Repositioning at the start and end of chain would be a better choice, and the chain would be worked with normal flipped stitches.

A couple of days back I stumbled upon Jon Yusoff's How-to - Avoid using the 2nd shuttle . See, thrown rings using one shuttle !!!! 

One might inquire 'Why replace 2nd shuttle with a ball?' 

My answer is that it may be a matter of preference, sometimes mood! It can also be a means to reduce the number of tails to hide especially if it's going to be a looooong edging. Of course, one will need to either have 2 balls of the same shade (in order to reload the shuttle) or preload several shuttles before using the remainder of the ball for the 2nd thread.

One other scenario is when the rings are worked as mock rings (MR) or as self-closing mock rings (SCMR), a single shuttle and ball can work well.

Personally, I do not mind hiding ends, and 2 shuttles are more portable and manageable (a shuttle won't unravel if it slips off, unlike ball of thread). 2 shuttles also provide a lot of flexibility and freedom. 

As I always say, there's no absolute right or wrong in tatting. Choose what you feel comfortable with, or what the pattern demands, or how the pattern can be adapted to colour(s) and techniques. My point is merely Be Aware that there are several paths to the same destination, and with a bit of thinking ahead and adaptation you can travel any road!

You can find all tutorials here - 

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/tatting-resources.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/my-tut.html

frost flower pictopattern

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Notice the new entrant here? It is my 12-point variation of the frost flower. Didn’t quite turn out the way I had imagined – looks more like a wheel. Interesting how the entire character and focus seems to have altered!

Tatted in Lizbeth size 20, it measures 2 inches.

Should I share the pattern for this as well?

I have drawn diagrams of single motif/repeat to show sequence of elements and their stitch-count. It also has a written pattern which I found a bit difficult to write since there are numerous paths and techniques that can be chosen.

I finally decided to simply write what I have done and leave it to the tatter to substitute. In this pictorial, however, I have tried to point out the options.

Please help me decide whether the pictorial should be included within the pdf or should I simply give a link to this post for those who want to see each step? The image size will be smaller in the pdf and will add 2 or 3 pages. Of course, one can opt not to print those pages.

Once I have your answers, I will finalise and upload pdf.

  FROST  FLOWER  

snowflake pattern

© muskaan   Nov 2019

SCM(J)R with TR: Self-closing mock Josephine ring with thrown ring : Start mock Josephine ring using same half stitches, switch shuttle, leave bare thread and make thrown ring, close, switch shuttle, leave equal bare thread (a mock picot has been formed), continue with half stitches, close the mock ring.
I first shared this effect - SCM(J)R - with stepwise pictorial,  here.

Sh = shuttle ; - = picot ; -- = long picot ; rw = reverse work ; 

SS = switch shuttle ; JR = Josephine ring (worked with same half stitch) ;
TR = thrown ring (remember to switch shuttle before and after a thrown ring)

rs = reverse stitch or unflipped stitch as in 2nd side of split ring (optional)  

2 shuttles, continuous thread. Red is Sh1, yellow is Sh2

 1. Insert clip or pin on core thread (Sh1) for starter picot.

Chain : 3 – 6.

SCM(J)R: Start mock Josephine ring with 6 half stitches, leaving a loop at the base,  

 2. Switch shuttle for thrown ring but leave bare thread space before starting ring.

space, (TR: 3 -– 3), close,

 3. leave bare thread (a mock picot is formed), switch shuttle, and complete the mock JR with 6 half stitches. Pass shuttle through loop and close the SCM(J)R.

 4. Chain : 3 rs  

 5.  rw, SS, (TR: 3 -- 3), SS

 6.  chain : 3
(the above image is from the back)

ALTERNATE for steps 4 to 6 : rw, SS, chain: 3, (TR: 3 -- 3), 3.

Further reference : Changing Chain Curves

 7.  rw, JR : 6 + 6 (join to mock picot). SS 

ALTERNATE: This JR can be worked as a SCM(J)R. In this case, SS to work the mock JR, and continue with same shuttle for step #8.  

  8.  chain: 6 - 3

 9.  remove the pin or paper clip, insert hook through Both the starter and TR picots ....

 10.  ... to pull up core thread loop for a lock join.

 11.  This is how it will look after a lock join.

 12.  Chain: 2 rs - 2 rs. 

ALTERNATE for step 12: rw, SS, chain: 2 - 2, rw, SS.

One motif or repeat complete. Insert holder for picot and repeat 5 more times, joining the last repeat to the first.

With direct tatting, I didn't have to keep reversing the work, and was able to tat mainly from the front.

Waiting for your response. And I hope this pictorial helps. If it seems confusing, pick up your shuttles and work alongside. I find it helps.

Related Posts

design process

SCM(J)R or Josephine Ring cluster

Changing Chain Curves – Convex and Concave

happy tatting J

dream castles

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Happy International Lace Day !

Snowflake #4 in Land of Laces’ 25 Snowflake Project on facebook & instagram

Minarets in the Sky Snowflake

click to download free pattern pdf

November 2016 was when I first uploaded a collaged image of a snowflake I was working on.

I had worked a sample that September as part of the This Way of Tat? (TWoT) series – in fact it was meant as the final practice pattern since there can be a lot of directional changes depending on various factors. Well, that series is still in limbo, but I’m gradually sharing the patterns.

What I like best about this design is the dome shape created by changing the direction of chains. However, this is also the biggest ‘flaw’ in the design. It causes ruffling when tatting, and has to be blocked for flatness.

(In Lizbeth 20, this measures 2½” as a hexagon side) 

It is something I tried very hard to rectify, through numerous small tweaks in many trials but was unsuccessful. I will be extremely pleased if you wish to try your hand or leave suggestions.

There is hardly any ruffling in the beaded version where the small base rings are removed. However, the domes tend to overlap slightly.

The beaded version is quicker to tat as well and can be worked with one shuttle and ball if short chain lengths are done with unflipped (reverse) stitches.
UPDATE TIP : Instead of direct tatting, one can make a SLT and reverse work to tat the tapering chain segment, making requisite adjustments to bead, etc.

For the large gold bead on top, I tried using my Floating Beads method, but it does not give a snug and stable finish. After trying a couple of the usual methods, I finally settled on threading the beads as and when required and using the transparent seed bead as an anchoring bead.

I later added this Swarovski crystal in the center, although it can be worked in during tatting by holding it on a long picot in the first ring and joining across later.

While the white one reminds me of marble domes as in the Taj Mahal, the yellow & gold is for the Golden Temple in Amritsar. It is surrounded by water, though here the central blue is for sky with little stars.

Again, patterns for both versions are included in the pdf.

download Minarets in the Sky Snowflake pattern here

UPDATE : An adapted version is shared by Grace Atkinson where the overlap is removed and the flake lays fairly flat. Find the pattern and models in her facebook timeline or here  - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/03/minarets-take-time.html 

keeping it clean

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This post starts off with Round 4 of Renulek’s current tat-along and

lists a few ways to keep our large projects & works-in-progress (WIPs) clean till they are completed.  

Renulek’s Wiosna 2016

Round 4 

There’s nothing much to share at this stage. But if one is looking for options, here’s how I am doing it :

I climbed out of Round 3 with a split chain.

Round 4 can be tatted with a single shuttle and ball, although I already had 2 shuttles. I am tatting it in clockwise direction.

Continued from the split chain with Direct tatting (reverse/unflipped stitch), to make the connecting/base chain in Rnd 4;

For the floral scallops I went with Directional (fs/bs tatting) : the rings are all in RODS & chains in normal DS, with RW between each element. 

The first ring has a medium length picot to which the later 3 rings are joined. I like the slight hollow in the center, hence chose this method.

After the 4th ring is made, turn work (TW). Continue with reverse stitch for base chain and join to Rnd 3 picot, using the Split Ring join described in 1.3.a here . I kept switching between an Up loop & a Down loop, but there is not much visual difference when working with a single colour. If required in later rounds, I intend to practice the S2LHPJ.

I have a few more repeats left in Rnd 4 and will update/post future rounds only if I have something new/different to share. This is still on the shuttles & has not been ironed or blocked yet.

********************************

Keeping It Clean !

As the doily grows in size, one often comes across the problem of keeping it clean – dust & stain-free. It seems to be right time to address some of the very many options we have devised for ourselves ! There are so many really creative solutions that are made & shared by bloggers. The following is a simple run-through list

1. Prevention is better than cure !

Keep hands, tools, materials & work area clean.

A. Always wash hands before picking up the project. While traveling, use clean/wet wipes, etc.

TIP from Patti Duff :  "Regarding the wet wipes - be sure to read the ingredient list and avoid any with oil and/or lanolin. The oils will transfer to your work and show."

B. Store tools & threads in clean covered boxes or pouches.

C. Wipe the working surface clean before spreading out the lace & materials.

Layer it. Cover the work area with a clean sheet – a mat, a table cloth, etc. This sheet(s) can be earmarked for & stored with our lace projects so that we don’t have to hunt around every time. Clean this sheet(s) regularly.

 My Memory Afghan took many months to complete & the change of sheets can be seen in pic below.

Yet, after working on it for two winters, it does not need a wash.

2. Ride with Pride !

Often the only free time we get to enjoy our hobby is while traveling. But risk of dirtying the lace increases manifold. A few tips …

Use wipes to keep hands clean.

Keep all items & WIP in clean pouch, special bags with pockets, zip-lock bags, etc. that can be closed/zipped shut.

Place a clean hanky or cloth over the working surface.

Choose darker shades/colours or variegated colourways that won’t show the dust/dirt easily.

Instead of one large project, it might be easier to work on small items that get completed & packed quickly so that they do not gather too much dust.

Box it. Small motifs, snowflakes, etc. can be stored in small boxes or containers within the pouch.

These small motifs from Renulek’s Snow Doily were stored in a little plastic box till they were needed later.

3. Roll and Store !

Pillow cases can be used to store our WIPs, especially as they grow large, without having to hunt for large flat clean covered surfaces ! This is especially handy for long-forgotten WIPs, which we are all guilty of.

Roll It. Place the doily flat on the pillow case (or any other clean cloth or towel) ;

fold in half ensuring that the entire doily fits within ;

roll the pillow/towel & store in closet, drawer, or in a  pouch/bag if traveling.

This layered rolling keeps the doily fairly flat without getting squished or creased. The rolled case takes up very little space. 

 

Renulek's Wiosna 2015 - another doily that was in progress for many months, as it grew larger & larger in size 20 thread. But it stayed clean & cozy within the pillow covers (I had to change to a larger pillow case on the left). The shuttle & thread is deliberately left out only to photograph, otherwise it stays inside too.



4. Working on Long Edgings !

I like to sew on edgings later, not join as one tats. That means keeping the lengthening edging from entangling.

Place in a zip-lock pouch.

Wrap around a card.

Or keep it safe inside a box.

This is the Zig-Zag Lace/edging tatted in size 10 for a table-cloth, getting quite unmanageable . 

 The Belgium chocolates inside were consumed in no time & the box used to keep the ever-growing lace. 

 Fortunately, the inner lid flaps had a circular opening, which worked well for the lace to emerge 

 Of course, one can always work with the lid closed …

 When one’s tatting is done for the day, place shuttle alongside the lace & keep box & thread in clean place.

This ‘fancy’ box also had a removable container ! I’ve photographed it with the lace in the container 

& the big ball of thread inside the box. Ball in box is something many tatters do.

After trying out various methods, these 4 are my favorite. Simple & inexpensive choices using what is easily available in the house. I have not had to wash any of these projects after completion, and 2 of these were even gifted! Experience teaches us so many new tricks & ideas. What is your favorite go-to method to keep large projects clean & dust-free ? 

Related Posts : Rounds 1-3 

Split Ring Joins

All excuses have been rounded doily !

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Wiosna 2016

Renulek

Rounds 1 & 2 ; Round 3

I wasn’t going to tat a doily, especially not a Renulek doily this year. I have a lot on my tatting plate already, including the snowflake challenge, the joins in shuttle tatting series, the pinterest challenge, the Online tatting Class, the Designer Class, and my personal learning (tatting needles were delivered this afternoon !!!). Quite a shuttle-full & more !

But as soon as Renulek posted this year’s pattern, and I saw the lovely centre, I caved. No problem…. I have rounded up all my excuses for starting the doily and in case I decide not to complete it !

My Current Excuses :

I do love Renulek's doilies - they are charming & beautiful & always lie flat.

Of the three Renulek doilies I tatted, her Spring 2014 doily (had to leave midways for want of thread) & Wiosna 2015 are already in use. But these are in size 20 - no longer my favorite size. 
Then came her Snow Doily from 2012 in size 40 – loved the delicate lace, but has been gifted (remind me to post the final rounds). It was sent away far too soon. So, I need a size 40, don’t I ?! 

Now all my doilies – small & big – are in colour(s). My DH always admired the white or ecru originals whenever I showed him & asked why I didn’t tat in single colour. So here I am ... At present, it is the perfect foil to all the colour play in Lene’s snowflakes. 

Working with a single colour is such a relief, such a breeze! No colour decisions (major Phew!), no loading shuttles with different threads, easy climbing out of rounds, …

I can practice direct tatting (reverse/unflipped stitch) for long stretches & really improve my tension there.

Thread : Anchor Mercer size 40 . Art 4054. Cream – 0300.

Measurements : Rnd 1 : ¾” ; Rnd 2 : 2½” ; Rnd 3 : 3½”  

Techniques : 2 shuttles, CTM, direct tatting, split ring, directional tatting

Rounds 1 & 2 : I started with 2 shuttles loaded CTM. This time I did not anchor the adjacent rings in center with very small picot linkages as I did here because I liked the slight overlap in Renulek’s picture.

Climbed out with a split ring.

Round 2 was tatted clockwise entirely from the front (Direct tatting or reverse/unflipped stitches). Loved how quickly & smoothly it went with no reverse work.

As you can see I left a marker/spacer clip on the first chain where the round will join back on completion.

Round 3 : This is such a simple round & despite my resolution, I preferred directional tatting this time. So rings are normal stitches, RW, chains are RODS (reverse order DS).

I have deliberately left the last chain un-tatted. If required (& desired), I can tat a split chain to climb to next round... Postponing my decision for now.

Will I continue ? 
My Future Excuses : 

I don’t really need another round doily. I do need a rectangular one, though.

I don’t have the time to spare, especially as the rounds get bigger.

Tatting in single colour might get mighty boring after a while.

Renulek’s doilies are very excellent in construction & placement but not very challenging if one considers techniques.
I did so want to make the Mystery Doily later this year.

How far will I go ? Only time will tell. For now, after Round 3, it makes a nice coaster. And seeing it lying there, makes me want to continue ! I've left a window open for now :-)

Before I sign off, please step over to Anna's blog to read her post 7 Reasons Why I Hate Tatting and why she wants to bang her shuttles against the wall !

Happy Tatting-Along :-)

Related Posts : Pink Chrysanthemum Doily

Wiosna 2015 Doily

Astral Fireworks Doily