When I focused on bilateral symmetry in this pattern, I forgot about the blocks (see 3rd pic below). Thus, while most rings on left and right halves face the same way, the chains in the left and right blocks are incongruous -- instead of being mirror images, they all face the same direction.
Block Tatting is made up of rows/tiers of chains. These rows/tiers can be worked one above the other, or one below the other.
1. Block tiers moving up ie. tatted ABOVE the previous, are simple to make, joining below with a lock join to the picot(s) on previous chain. Like the blocks in pic #1 below -
The block on the right is tatted the same way starting from the shortest chain on top, and moving 'above' to the next row/tier (though it looks upside down).
Now compare the left and right blocks with respect to 2 variables - the colour of each chain/block, and where the chains face. Not symmetrical, right?!
2. When the next tier is tatted BELOW the previous one, it means we need a picot on the core thread to which the new chain level can join. We need down/downward/inward facing/intruding picots! Of the many methods, holding the picot space with a paper clip is most common. This is how the right block was tatted ....
Now here's my pernickety question - Would you be Mr Meticulous with perfect mirroring of blocks despite the invasion & interference of all those paper clips or would you rather be Dr Downplay, just going with the flow without bothering overly much about the left and right sides?
Which factors would influence your choice - whether working with 1 or 2 colours; mood; time constraints; competition submission; etc.




















