Monday, 4 April 2016

Shuttle 2 to the Rescue !

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JOINS  IN  SHUTTLE  TATTING
IN SEARCH OF COMMON PRINCIPLES
PART – II

CATEGORY I. ABOVE  (contd.)

A Brief  Recap :
When a link needs to be made to a previous element Above the line of present working, the ball/SH2 thread is closer to the joining picot. Hence SH2 thread comes into play in the Picot joins (up, down, in a circle, swirl join)  the Lark’s Head Picot Join as discussed in Part I. The remaining joins in this same category are discussed below. 

Abbreviations used here :
SH – shuttle
SR – split ring
DS – double stitch
LHPJ – lark’s head picot join
RS – reverse stitch (unflipped stitches)
hs – half stitch
uSHS – unflipped 2nd half stitch
LJ – lock join

About Pics :
In the tatted samples worked in size 20 thread, yellow represents core/SH1 thread ; aqua blue represents ball/SH2/auxiliary thread ; black represents a previous tatted element with a picot to which current working needs to be linked.

A Note of Caution on Colour Blips/Spots:
I have used a 3rd colour (black) to represent a previous element. However, in actual tatting, when working with 2 colours, this previous element may be the colour of either SH1 or SH2 thread. When joining picot is the same colour as the stitch colour in present working, colour blips may not be visible.
For example, in LHPJ, if black, which has the joining picot, was substituted with aqua blue (SH2), no colour blip will show on back side. But if black is substituted with yellow (SH1), a colour blip will be visible on back side.

Rule : In two-colour tatting, if joining picot from previous element and current stitch are of same colour, colour blips/spots are usually not seen on the front side.

I.3 Joining the Second Half of a Split Ring  :
While linking the 2nd half of a split ring (SR), the picot may seem to be below the ring being made, but notice the caps on the two elements : they face each other. Hence it belongs to the ‘Above’ category of joins. 
Pic 6.  Explaining the visuals for Part II
A split ring has two halves : the first half (yellow in pics) is worked like a normal ring with flipped stitches or DS and any links on this side will include the Picot Joins and LHPJ (Refer I.1, I.2). The second half of a SR is made with reverse or unflipped stitches using SH2 and the SH1/core thread shuttle is not on hand. Thus the linkage calls for slight modification of movements, to ensure the core thread continues to slide freely after the join is made.
There are 3 main ways to accomplish this linkage :

I.3.a  Split Ring Join 
UPDATE: Reverse Stitch Join is a better, generic term since the same method/join is used in case of direct tatted chains, etc. The join is basically a feature of the reverse stitch, and not the element.
aka Transitional join10, Split Ring Core join11, Join to second side of SR12, Joining second half of SR13.
One comes across different names, as listed above, but the basic movement and formation remains the same. They have, therefore, been clubbed together under ‘Split Ring Join’ in order to distinguish this formation from 1.3.b & c.

  • A loop of SH1/core thread is pulled Up or Down through picot, and SH2 is passed through it. The core thread is then tensioned so that it ‘pops’ back from the picot with the SH2 thread wrapped around it.
  • It allows core thread to slide freely.
  • This join can be counted as a hs.
  • An up loop creates a colour blip on the front side; a down loop creates a colour blip on back side. Hence when working with 2 colours, use a Down loop to keep colour blips at back of work14.    
  • Any element (ring or chain) worked with RS can be linked with this join.
  • It follows the basic principle of a picot join.
Pic 7. Split Ring Join made with
Up & Down loops

(click on image to enlarge)

Rule : It is advisable to keep the loop that is pulled through joining picot untwisted while passing shuttle through loop for making any join.

I.3.b Lark’s Head Picot Join with Shuttle 2 (S2LHPJ) 15
This is a slightly elaborate multi-step procedure to wrap and flip a complete DS within the joining picot, thus creating an “invisible join”. While the 1st half of a SR can be joined using a LHPJ, the 2nd half needs to be wrapped a bit differently.   
  • 1uSHS is made outside the picot, before commencing the linkage formation within picot.
  • A loop from SH2 is pulled up through picot and SH2 passed through loop. Several ensuing movements enable the formation of a DS which is snugged into position. 
  • The join is counted as 1 complete stitch and lies within the picot.
  • Useful for smooth visual effect, with a continuous line of stitches.
  • A colour blip will be seen at the back only if joining picot is of different colour.
  • Any element (ring or chain) worked with RS can be linked with this join. 
Pic 8. Lark's Head Picot Join
made with Shuttle 2 (S2LHPJ)

I.3.c  Lock Join with Shuttle 2 thread
A third way to join SR is with a lock/shuttle join using SH2.
  • Pull a loop of SH2 through picot, pass SH2 through loop, adjust  tension carefully.
  • It locks the SH2 thread, while keeping SH1/core thread free.
  • This is a very easy and quick method. But care must be taken to position the thread carefully before final tensioning.
  • It does not create much of a colour blip.
  • It leaves a visible bump/bar along the line of stitches which may not be visually appealing.
[update] This join is also used in Inverted Tatting. Also called Ball Lock Join - http://www.georgiaseitz.com/2004/joins/mminvertedtat.jpg 
Pic 9. Lock Joins using Shuttle 2

The ball thread join 16
A decorative variation of LJ with SH2 which can be employed in all kinds of rings and chains.   
The movements of I.3.c are followed, but a space of thread is left on either side. (refer Pic 9)
The bare thread space of SH2 before and after the LJ imitate the picots in the element being worked. Thus the actual join is not placed in line with the previous stitches; it is placed at the tip of a mock picot. It enables the tatter to maintain, and continue with the decorative look of the element which is being linked.


This completes Category I. 
In Part III we will consider Category II where links are made Across elements.

Feedback, correction, or addition is welcome.
I will convert this entire series into a pdf file for easy reference, with requisite updates and modifications. 

Related Posts : Demystifying Joins  
_____________________________________________ 
Footnotes & Tutorials (Part II) :
14 Most tutorials show the Up loop being used to make the Split Ring join. Compare the up & down loop, as well as the SH2 movements in the collage picture.
15 Lily Morales 2003 
16 Martha Ess The instructions & pictures are shared in her Butterick Butterfly Bookmark pattern.



Friday, 1 April 2016

Look !

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Look what a lock join unlocked !!! Access to my very first MK pattern. My head was literally spinning with palpable excitement when this popped out of the Tatter Chatter newsletter last week (March)! Thanks to Bev, and her wonderful team at The Tatters’ Guild of Australia (NWS Branch). Their newsletter was the first to officially publish a post of mine - How to Unlock the Lock Join.

And just as I was finalizing this post, Another Huge gift arrived, just in time for ITD. Once again from Australia & probably partially connected to my Joins in Shuttle Tatting series. Judith Connors sent me a copy of her book ”An Illustrated Dictionary of Tatting” *! WooHoo – can you see me doing the happy dance ?!

In Hindu mythology, we consider Time as a wheel (‘samay / kaal ka chakra’) that keeps rolling … The Spinning Wheel glass mat symbolises how tatters across time, space & nations can come together through their continuing love for this beautiful art. We are truly joined, interlaced :-)

So what better way to celebrate International Tatting Day than dedicate it to Mary Konior, the queen of visual tatting.
I also want to dedicate this to the Wonderful online tatting community from where I have learned so much in such a short time & the community continues to inspire me in so many ways every single day, and in particular to Judith, my inspiration & guide.

Spinning Wheel Glass Mat
Mary Konior


The Spinning Wheel glass mat looks great irrespective of which colour(s)/colourway one chooses. But Diane's charcoal mat here threw up such interesting negative space designs tempting me to choose black.

In Anchor Mercer cotton size 40, black, it measures 4” in diameter.
Techniques I used :
2 shuttles CTM fully loaded bobbins .
Directional tatting
Switching Shuttles takes care of the change in chain directions (reverse chains).

It was interesting to note that directional tatting changed en bloc : while going up an arm, the rings were RODS, while returning back, chains were RODS.

If one stops at 6 arms or 7 arms, one gets a nice bowl shape – perfect for little truffles & treats to share on ITD :-)

There was a tip on Craftree to start the mat from an outer ring, so that it becomes easier to join back & tie off in the end. However, for my first mat, I decided to go as per directions.

I intend to tat another, with increased diameter like this, for my snood.  I've been collecting possible patterns but this one is exactly what I wanted !


Happy Tatting and nibbling on chocolates while you distribute tatted goodies :-)



I chose some symbolic tatting for the lead pic, alongside the Spinning Wheel glass mat –
Hold My Hand heart ( for the interlaced rings) ,
Anne Bruvold’s Hearts of Hope , and
Super 17 Butterflies to give away (one has already been given away on Sunday)

* This edition of the book is available at Lacis.com 

Related Posts : ITD 2014 - pattern

Thursday, 31 March 2016

Keeping up

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Keeping up with upkeep , with so much tatting around ?! A Herculean task.
That is why the Pinterest Challenge is my ticket to keep at it, albeit at a monthly snail’s pace.



We bought this little wooden ‘antique-look’ chest about 8-10 years back. The brass overlay work was shining, the wood nicely polished . This is used to store hand towels in the bathroom. When an item is new, maintenance is so easy (and age was on my side)! Gradually, with time & eventual negligence, this is how the side facing the bathing area started to look ; the front is in no great shape either (leftmost in top pic). One can’t eliminate water splashes completely, despite the shower curtain ;-(



This pin has been on my DIY board for nearly 2 years now. It is among my most re-pinned images.
It was finally time to roll up my sleeves & get to work.
Materials : Oil, Vinegar, rag/towel
Quickly mixed up some vegetable (cooking) oil & vinegar (3:1), gave the jar a shake – it is an emulsion & sat down with a kitchen towel (the fiber roll type). That’s all one needs!
Applied the emulsion with the towel & left it in sunshine (for better absorption).
That’s it! Didn’t even rub it in.
Applying emulsion to left panel
Left panel after a few days
I’m sure if I do this regularly, it will get back all it’s original beauty. With a single application, there has been a marked change. With a few more applications spread over the next few months, the spots should disappear completely. 
TIP : I might even mix in some coffee powder to add colour! 
Top panel immediately after application of emulsion
This was my challenge completed. But the upkeep wasn’t over. The brass needs to be polished, too!


Easy Brass Polish

Simple tamarind paste as brass polish !
Materials : Tamarind Paste/pulp , toothbrush, rag, & water.

I had a few ideas in mind besides Brasso, which I do not like much (this branded brass polish does make the item shine but for a very short duration; and it is all chemical). For vases, etc. I use tamarind pulp. I tried store-bought salted tamarind paste (Dabur Homemade) . The paste worked quickly on the least affected brass parts. 

In the step 2 (top right) of process pic above, I have tried to show 3 areas within the same brass circle for comparison : (in counterclockwise direction) before any application of paste ; with tamarind paste ; paste applied & wiped off. 
More applications required for gunk build-up
The most difficult was the left side again. All that build-up took me many repeats before I realized that if a few drops of water are added after brushing, it wiped away the gunk easily. Repeat application, brushing, adding water, wiping for as many times as required. I think the before/after pics speak for themselves.

TIP : Lemon wedges & citric acid crystals (with a few drops of water) were the other two materials I tried this time. The results are inconclusive – they would work for regular cleaning & polishing, not for old & hard build-ups. I intend to scrub some areas regularly whenever I have a few leftover lemon slices.

With a bit more elbow grease & time, I could’ve done a better sparkling job. But my intention was to start with the upkeep & keep it up in future rather than tire myself out into distaste. I am very satisfied & motivated to regularly maintain the maintenance of this box !

So I’ve moved from the bedroom to the kitchen to now the bathroom. What next ?!

Before we answer that, don't forget to take a tour of what our other 
much more creative pin chicks are up to - 
Join us anytime you like - more chicks the merrier :-)