Tuesday, 16 June 2020

whimsical interlacing

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INTERLACED  RINGS  using 2 shuttles
(SSSR – single shuttle split ring method)  


When I first experimented here by reducing the number of shuttles, I thought this was a do-able but whimsical technique with very limited application. 
However, a couple of interested tatters, including a request, led me to post this pictorial. And as I went about it, a few designs cropped up in my head. I will try to tat 1 or 2 motifs for practice patterns later.

Skill required : how to make SSSR, Mathew Takeda style. Several resources, including Sabina’s pdf, are listed here (scroll down to RINGS -> SSSR).

This pictorial covers only front to back (over-under) movement in detail. The same concept applies to back to front movement as shown in my earlier posts here and here.

For practice, wind 2 shuttles with thick threads in different colours. Join them. I made a short picoted S-chain.
Each ring is : SSSR: 5-5/10.
The starting pair of rings is closed a wee bit differently than the rest of the braid.
For 1st pair of rings :
1. Leave a bit of bare thread at the base, before starting ring.
Using shuttle1, start Ring 1: 5-5

2. Pull up a long loop from the shuttle

 3. and finger-tat 10 ds to complete the ring.


 4. Partially close the ring leaving just enough space for shuttle to pass through.


 5. Pass shuttle2 front to back through the open ring and tat 5-5


 6. Again post shuttle2 front to back through the same open ring


 7. This is how the 2 rings will look. Ring1 is still open, and interlaced Ring2 is partially tatted.


 8. Now start closing Ring1 by pulling the core thread part of the loop


 9. Ensure the loop is at the back of work, hence pass it through Ring2


 10. Then pass the starting tail through this loop in order to anchor the thread (otherwise the ring will unravel)


 11. and completely close the ring. Pull out a loop of shuttle2


 12. and finger tat the 2nd side of the ring.


 13. Tug on the loop to close ring


 14. Pass tail through this loop to anchor


15. and pull shuttle2 thread to remove all slack from the loop.
The starting SSSRs are interlaced and complete.

For 2nd and all subsequent pair of rings :
Leave a tiny bit of bare thread before starting each ring.
 16. With shuttle1, tat Ring3 just like Ring1, closing it only partially.


 17. Interlace shuttle2 ring and tat the first half.


 18. Close Ring3 but leave the finger loop open.


 19. Complete tatting Ring4 and close it, leaving the finger loop open. Notice the loops from each shuttle at base of respective rings.


 20. Now, pass the tail through BOTH loops simultaneously, to anchor the rings,


21. and tug the respective shuttle threads to remove all slack from the loops.
Second pair of interlaced SSSRs completed.
Repeat steps 16 to 21 for desired length.

The next 2 pairs shown in the above pic are interlaced back to front. All steps remain same (from #16 onwards), except for posting shuttle2 back to front twice.

Interlacing with SSSR - My Thoughts and Comparison :
  1. Fewer shuttles required. But this also limits the number of colours that can be used.
  2. Basic interlacing movement and effect remains same as for split rings.
  3. Each pair of SSSRs is brought together at the base (due to the anchoring loops) unlike the linear path/separation for SRs. This is a visual effect, too.
  4. When using interlaced SSSR in a motif, the pair has to remain unattached to previous elements in order for the anchoring loops to pass through unhindered. Some patterns may get around this dilemma, but the range becomes limited.

I had also wondered whether Dora Young’s knotless rings can be used in such interlacing. As I thought over it more, I realise it will be very cumbersome, if at all, to accomplish the interlacing. One will have to go back and forth to tat a pair of rings completely. I’m not in a mood to try it ;-P


Friday, 12 June 2020

Interlaced rings pictorials revisited

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I had last done interlaced split rings in November 2014. Last month when I revisited the pictorials in order to refresh my memory for practice patterns, I was confused by how to wrap the loop for the 2nd split ring! This step was not photographed in any of the 3 pictorials I did in 2014. Time to rectify that ‘misstep’ and also share a few new tips.


Interlaced  Rings
Pictorials revisited
The focus of this revisit is to show how to wrap the 2nd SR loop round the hand. For greater stepwise pics, please refer to original pictorials.

SR = split ring ; Sh = shuttle
In most of the pics, only shuttle #3 (Sh3) is shown in action.

Starting the braid. 4 shuttles, wound in pairs using 2 different threads. I have shared different ways of starting the first pair in the recent 2020 patterns (all links at bottom of post). For original detailed pictorial click here.

The pair above overlaps or interlaces front to back or over-under. A picot on first side of each split ring also helps to keep track of threads/shuttles, and sides, during initial practice.

Basic pattern :
SR1: 5-5 / 10. do not close. Post Sh3 front to back through open SR1.
SR2: 5-5 / 10. close both rings.

TIP: To keep track of shuttles : You can use different colours or designs to distinguish the 4 shuttles. Or write/glue numbers on the shuttles. I used red shuttles for the first side of each split ring, and yellow (or blue as seen here) for the 2nd side of each SR. It was easy to keep track since the thread colours were different.

Interlaced Split Rings
Front to Back or Over-Under

1. Make SR1: 5-5 / 10, but do not close. Post Sh3 front to back through SR1.
TIP: I close SR1 partially, leaving just enough space to allow Sh3 to pass through it. This partially closed SR1 is less likely to interfere with work.

2. Pick up the SH3 thread as shown …

3. … and loop around the hand as you normally would...

4.  and hold it in the pinch to start 1st side of 2nd split ring.

UPDATE TIP (Sep 2023): AN ALTERNATE for Steps 1 to 4 ---- 
Start looping the SH3 around your left hand, 
post the active shuttle (SH3) front to back through the open SR,
and bring it back to complete the pinch. 
You are now ready to start tatting the 1st side of the new SR with SH3.

5. 5-5 worked. Notice that the core (Sh3) thread is above SR1.
In original pictorial, 2nd side of SR2 is worked, then both rings are closed one after the other. 
TIP:  But following is my new preferred method :
6. Pass Sh3 front to back through the open SR1, and …

7. … close SR1. Notice Sh3 thread is now at the back/under SR1.

8. Complete 2nd side of SR2 and close. 2nd SR overlaps over/under. 
Repeat the pair for desired length.

TIP: For ease of working with multiple shuttles and partially open rings, it may be a good idea to adjust the length of thread of not-in-use shuttles, and to place the piece on a flat surface for better maneuverability.

Interlaced Split Rings
Back to Front or Under-Over

1. Make SR1: 5-5 / 10, but close only partially. Post Sh3 back to front through SR1.

2. Pick up the SH3 thread as shown …

3. … and loop around the hand as you normally would, and hold in pinch to start 2nd SR.
When we pull to form the loop, there is some twisting of threads/ring at the back. Ignore this, as long as you have the followed the steps correctly.

4. 5-5 worked. Notice that the core (Sh3) thread is above SR1. Ignore the twist behind.

5. Here, the twist seen in previous pics is smoothened, and this is how the rings, threads and shuttles will look at this stage.

6. Pass Sh3 back to front or under-over through the open SR1,

7. … this is how it will look once Sh3 is posted.

8. Close SR1. Pick up the open SR2 to work the 2nd side with Sh4 …

9. …and close SR2. 2nd SR overlaps under/over.

I hope any confusion or difficulty encountered in original pictorials will be set to rest now. But feel free to ask for any further clarification.

I will also do a pictorial on Interlaced SSSR since I was asked recently. However, that method has severe limitations.

Thursday, 11 June 2020

day of the triffids

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What can I say…it’s out of control! The peony just won’t stop growing. Sheetal K on facebook has already made the center (peony wreath) in beautiful earthy tones and has decided to tackle the coaster. She is a kindred soul, eager to learn and work new techniques! Hence this post to share the ongoing pattern, especially since the next rounds are taking longer to finalise….

PEONY pattern continued (Rounds 6 to 8)

Pattern for rounds 1-5 and related Notes can be found in the following posts -

Round 6 was conceptualised and tatted within an hour! No retro-tatting unlike the previous rounds – my guesstimate worked perfectly.
Round 6 –
There are 2 alternating chains, one shorter than the other. Ball and shuttle, continuous thread. Join thread to last picot of previous round such that the new chain will be between petals.
Chain1 : 4 – 2, 4fhs 4shs, 6, lock join
Chain2 : 6 – 2, 4fhs 4shs, 8, lock join
Repeat all around 10 times.
Measures 5”

Round 7 –
Shuttle and ball, ctm. Join to any picot.
Chain : 2 vsp 6 - 3, 4fhs 4shs, 9 vsp 2. lock join to next picot.
Repeat all around, 20 times, joining to previous chain and last chain to the first.
Measures 5¾”
This post was ready a couple of days back, but the pics were not notated. During that time I have almost completed the next round, despite snipping and changing tack! Like I said, it’s out of control, and very addictive!

Round 8 –
Shuttle and ball, ctm. Join to any picot.
‘Peony’ by Pearl Buck
 
I wrote a bit about it here
Chain : 3 vsp 6 - 4, 4fhs 4shs, 4 – 6 vsp 3. lock join to next picot.
Repeat all around, 20 times, joining to previous chain and last chain to the first.
Measures 6½”


So, should this be the last petal round?!
TIP : Actually one can end after any round(s) and create a set of different sized coasters. Only remember to tat the final round without any free picot!

My intention for a final round is to create some foliage that has interlocking rings and chains. But will the shuttle stop tatting the petals, LOL? They tat up quickly once the stitch count is set.