Pattern: Eleonore's Angels

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Jigsaws to the rescue !

Who knew ?!

Who knew my love of puzzles, & jigsaws in particular, would help me solve a tatting pattern ?!

You know I love challenges, and true to form “fools rush in …” I readily agreed to do some summer homework for the Online Tatting Class, which incidentally/ironically, involved “angels”.

Single Angel medallion, tatted in one pass

Before proceeding with my trials ....(click on links to download)

The pattern is by Eleonore Endrucks Leichtenstern : Pattern #22 from Schiffchen-Spitzen 1920 and this book is in public domain. It can be downloaded from Georgia Seitz’s Archive (listed as Endrucks 1920 and Endrucks 1920 diagrams insert) . For modern version : Eleonore’s Angel Lace

A normal, 2-shuttle pattern, requiring only a knowledge of thrown rings (or rings on chain), & lock join followed by very small picot (or any preferred block tatting method). Yes, that's it ! 

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My Trials with

Eleonore's Angel Lace *

After quite a bit of puzzlement, I decided to make the very 1^st edging pattern in her book, in order to get a sense of her designing, diagrams, writing, & notations (this will be shared later, along with pattern & an adapted coaster/edging).

Even so, I could comprehend only parts of her pattern & went ahead to tat those like a puzzle, hoping to fit pieces together later. As you can see in the pic below, the jigsaw rule was followed , by seeking out the ‘corners’ first …(Can you see another angel profile there ?!) 

Once these were done, it became fairly easy & within 2 days, the entire pattern was decoded ! It is large in size 20, hence for all subsequent tatting, size 40 was used.

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ROW 1

But let's start afresh. 

Having succeeded at piecing the puzzle together in size 20, I picked up purple (& white) in size 40. The lace/broad edging , despite it's elaborate & large size, is Only a Two-Row pattern !

Following are pics of Row 1, tatted in one pass. 

And also playing with it in various formations  ...

Single Repeat of Row 1 

TIP : When block tatting chains curve inwards, in concave fashion (as the block over the large ring on right), one can decrease the chain segment by 1ds each, to avoid cramping.

I did this much later, only in the Angelette tatted in white (2nd last pic below).

2 Repeats of Row 1

2 repeats of Row 1, when folded inwards

Choker Necklace, with beads & a tiny ring.
(when Row 1 is folded inwards. 2 repeats, one pass)

TIP : Excellent use of block tatting to move over distances, to move in diverse directions, to return to desired point, ..... spanning large areas, yet covering them with lacy effect.

4 repeats of Row 1, joined back to starting point.
A beautiful curved-corner edging/lace, tatted in one pass !

When Row 1 is folded 'outwards', it forms a 
V-shaped/triangular edging or necklace/choker !

4 repeats of Row 1 & joined back to starting point.
A 'Points n Curves' Edging for square/rectangular 

coasters, or mats, again, all tatted in one pass !

The 2 pics above have a part of Row 2 (last section - the outward-facing arches) included between each Row 1 repeat.

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Are you enjoying the genius of this designer ? Isn't it a marvel ?!  

Let's now move to Row 2 & see what is in store :-)

ROW 2

Steps 10-15 when starting Row 2, were a bit more puzzling than the rest, especially getting the curves & shuttles in place. Hence, I added 2 pics - one from front & other from behind to show how it looks.
Note : there are No SLTs in the entire pattern, which involves 2 shuttles. 

  

One repeat of Row 2 complete .

Confession : When I first laid eyes on the pattern, it did not appeal to me. Seemed to lack elegance. But as I tatted samplers and saw the potential, I kept getting drawn in to the brilliance of this design, and the designer. I intend to try out more of her patterns in future ....

2 complete repeats of Lace pattern 

2 complete repeats of Lace pattern, continued with
partial Row 2, & joined back, to create a square

2 partial repeats of Row 2, when folded inwards,
create another snug-fitting square !

Did Eleonore do jigsaw puzzles ? See how neatly each 'tile'/piece has been fitting in with adjacent 'tiles', irrespective of which tile or aspect or part thereof one chooses ?!

Angelette extracted from within the 2-Row medallion.
Tatted in one pass, with pearl & gold beads

TIP : For peripheral chains in blocks, one can replace LJs with CWJ for smoother outlines. However,  CWJ cannot be used in the concentric chain block on the right ... that requires concave tatting. Having decreased the concavely-worked block chain from 6 to 5 ds, it lies flatter now.

One single medallion tatted in One Pass !
(without last segment of Row 2) CWJs used

My tatting leaves a lot to be desired. And I keep thinking what I should/shouldn't have done... the vsp could've been even smaller for one; blocks could've been neater... And I absolutely should've blocked the pieces before photographing! But hope the tattiness of my tatting does not keep you from giving Endrucks book a go.

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Besides the fact that each piece fits immaculately with others, in different formations, do you want more proof of her mathematically impeccable design ?

• Both rows have the exact same number of steps : 44 !
• Both rows require the exact same length of thread  : 30yards/28m CTM for 4 repeats !
• And although I haven't calculated, 'chances' are the number of knots is the same too, right ?! (I doubt she left anything to "chance", though)

For those interested :

DIMENSIONS FOR SINGLE MEDALLION/REPEAT :

In Size 40 thread :

ROW 1  : 3¼” (<8½cm) along base ; 1¼” (3cm) across top ;  <1¼” (3cm) high

ROW 2 :

Segments v-vii : ~4 cms across narrow ‘base’ ; 5½ cms across outer tips ; 3½ cms high (at tips) ; 2½ cms high in middle

Segment viii : 2 cms wide x ~2 cms high

In Size 20 thread :

ROW 1:  <4½” (11cm) base ; 2” (5cm) top ; 1¾” (4½cm) high

ROW 2 :

Segs v-vii :  2” wide at narrow ‘base’ ; 3” broadest ; 2” high (at tips) ; >1” high in middle

Seg viii : 1” high ; 1¼” wide 

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Tatting these does not take time. Really ! Writing & diagramming the pattern was like a never-ending process. So many drafts & redrafts had to be made & rejected, till everything seemed to be as logical as possible.  If you have any questions or difficulties, feel free to ask away.
I tatted FS/BS (using RODS) & have written & diagrammed accordingly, with colour coding, though it is Optional. However, if anybody finds that too intimidating, & wants an All-black pattern, please let me know & I will convert it into an all-black diagram/text & send/upload.
I will also post patterns for all the adaptations/derivations as they get completed.

The pattern was taught by Georgia on Nov 2nd, 2015 

Motifs 6-10 / III for 25 Motif Challenge

Happy Tatting :-)

Graphic Deconstruction of FS/BS (revised)

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Deconstructing FS/BS (RODS) Tatting

Many of us are visual learners. And a picture is worth a 1000 words anyway !
This got me to thinking of a universal graphic that could deconstruct & represent Stitches/Techniques.
This simple right-angle symbol seems to be easy & perfect to showcase Many different stitches, including some advanced ones. It is still a work in progress. But here is the 1st 'unveiling' .... It is meant to understand & compare a normal double stitch (DS) with a Reverse Order DS (RODS) commonly called FS/BS tatting.

I am uploading a picture, but for better visual, it is also presented as a pdf file which can be downloaded here.

A ring and chain pattern usually calls for RW (Reverse Work). The element we start tatting with (let's say a ring), can be considered to be the front of the project. Now, when we RW (to make a chain, suppose), we go from the front to the back side of the project. If we continue with the normal DS, they will look like RODS when viewed from front. The pattern may next ask for RW again, to make 2nd ring. So, we've switched to the front again, and normal DS will appear complete. Thus, in 'traditional' tatting, in terms of stitches,  there is no Distinct front or back .... some elements have complete ds, some seem to have incomplete DS, despite the fact that the Number or Count of stitches is a complete numeral according to pattern.

Left motif is the back of project, with RODS ;

 right motif is as seen from the front .

Now, since DS viewed from Back looks like a RODS, and conversely, RODS is nothing but a normal DS when viewed from the other side, we started to use RODS when tatting from the back. Hence in the description above, the ring is tatted in DS, RW, chain is tatted in RODS, RW, ring again in DS, and so on.

What has happened ?
ALL the stitches, when viewed from the Front of project, look like complete DS. And ALL the stitches, when viewed from the Back of project,  look like RODS !
Thus we have a project with a DISTINCT frontside & backside. Hence the name FS/BS tatting which employs DS & RODS.

There are many tutorials that explain & demonstrate it much better (I didn't have time to take pictures of actual tatting). This post is meant more for the symbolic representation of stitches.

Hope it helps, though.

Download Free pdf of Deconstructing FS/BS or RODS Tatting


I would truly appreciate any feedback, criticism, constructive suggestions for improvement. I do intend to add actual tatting pics in subsequent posts in this series.

Thanks & happy tatting :-)

Tutorial : Findings Atop Diamond

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“Finding” The Tip !

The curled ring earrings (below) posed a dilemma when it came to adding a finding, the way I visualized it. How do I add the earring hook to the Tip of a diamond arrangement of beads on a Ring ? Now this may seem like a simple question, but my limitations with beads in tatting, and the limitations of bead/thread sizes, brought forth beads of perspiration ! Searching the net didn’t yield any results either :-(

At the time I went ahead by inserting the finding through the space between the 4 beads, as you can see in pic above. But the puzzle kept gnawing at me & I sought answers in the Online Tatting Class, etc. Everyone was very helpful, with lots of suggestions & tips. My sincerest thanks to the OTC team (Cyn, Mel, Barb, Tammie), to Georgia who sent me an email presumably after reading the conversation, & to Jane Eborall for her prompt replies to my emails. Your collective interest & promptness in trying to resolve the issue was very heartwarming & inspiring.

But the person who Finally “solved” this was our other Jane from exciting safari land,while multitasking ! I received a reply, with tatted sample pic, within a few hours !

Hence, the following pictorial is Jane McLellan’s Method of adding findings to the tip of a diamond arrangement of beads, on a ring.

If you enjoy puzzles & challenges, read no further. Why not give it a try before reading ahead ? :-D

But first a couple of pics to show how we normally make 

a diamond arrangement in beads :

 

Normally, when we want a diamond arrangement of beads on a ring, we hold 3 beads in the loop around hand, & slide 1 bead from the shuttle thread. 

Note : All 4 beads were pre-loaded on to the shuttle.

When the next double stitch is made & snugged, the beads position themselves in a diamond shape.

In order to add a finding in this arrangement, a jump ring or split ring will have to be inserted through the topmost bead. BUT : The bead hole has to be large enough for the wire to pass through easily, & without fraying the thread. Moreover, the jump ring will be held stiffly in place & may cause the hook (or earring) to curve unnaturally in another plane. 

This is where Jane's method comes in handy ....

How to Add Findings to the 

Tip of Diamond Arrangement of 

Beads On a Ring

Jane McLellan’s Method

1. Load only 2 beads around hand & bring forth 1 bead from shuttle thread. 

2. Load 4th bead on a hook & pull a loop of thread from BETWEEN the pair of beads. 

3. Pull this loop out further & pass the 4th bead on to it (like LBP of leave bead on long picot) 

4. Insert a jump ring or split ring through the ‘picot’ loop. 

One can insert an earring hook directly on to the loop, too. 

 5. The earring hook can be inserted into the jump ring now, or earlier.

 6. Snug the beads & loop into position by pulling on the core thread. 

Then make a double stitch & continue with pattern.

 7. Complete the ring & close.

Variations to this are possible. For instance,

• With proper tools, the earring hook or any other finding can be added directly to the loop.
• Add more than one bead to the tip, if one wants longer dangles.
• Leave the thread loop long, like Jane has done here & here

My Heartiest Thanks to Jane for helping me out :-D

This tutorial was pending for such a long time ! Tonight, though, Georgia will be teaching the earring pattern in the OTC, & hence the impetus to post this post-haste ! 

download the pattern here or from Georgia's site here . It is included in The 52 Earrings Project 

Motif #5/III for 25 Motif Challenge

Related Posts : Jewelry Medallion Pattern