Wednesday, 29 July 2015

Cluny Tatting Tips

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Cluny Tatting – My First Trials

This is not a post about how to make tallies/clunies. There are many wonderful online tutorials (text, diagram, video) to which I will add links as I go. In this post, I will be giving my own take/options on how to get results easily, what should be absolutely avoided, or why a certain thing is done in relation to particular tuts … just a few tips here & there, that might be helpful to someone starting out – simply to show that one does not have to follow only one style &/or follow it dogmatically.
Secondly, these are my first trials & the tallies are not all good or identical. My main aim in learning Cluny tatting is in the potential for free style/ freeform & 3D tatting, & of course the diverse shapes & effects they can create, so I was not too concerned when all my classic oval tallies did not come out identical.
There is still a Whole lot of learning, experimenting, & practicing required !

About Cluny Tatting 

1. Cluny "Tatting" - it is not strictly tatting (this style originated in lace making & requires weaving, not knotting);
2. Cluny (in the capital) refers to the museum in Paris where it was first exhibited
3. 'cluny' is again a misnomer - the form/element that is woven is called a tally (or leaf/petal), not a cluny. However the latter has taken root (& admittedly, I do like the term ;-P) & is here to stay, but there is no harm in knowing a bit of factoid.
"Put simply, ‘Cluny Tatting’ is a design style which incorporates tallies, leaves or petals". Judith Connors

Why Cluny Tatting ?

Tallies add texture, density, interest, feature, novelty, beauty, …. They add a point of contrast between open lace (rings) & filled-in/coloured-in elements/rings . Weaving introduces an embroidered effect, too. 
But they are Functional as well !
A normal tally will act like a chain or a split ring to carry both threads from one end to the other, thus spanning a space.
A hanging cluny/tally will acts like a normal/regular ring where the threads return to the starting point, at the base.
Thus, almost any ring or chain in a pattern can be converted into a cluny/tally !
Both types of tallies have the potential for classic oval shape, or for freeform leaf, petal, & even regular Geometric shapes !!! Think of the Vast potential these shapes have/can have in our tatting – whether in freestyle tatting, in 3D, in jewelry, besides the flat 2D usage in doilies, etc.
And if a finger loom is difficult to mqke or sustain (“the death grip”!), then there are varied kinds of looms that can be cut out/made from materials within the home (listed at end of post). Even in a finger loom, I hope some of the tips listed below will help ease the tension in the hand (more on how versatile a single card loom can be in next post).

Disclaimer : I am sharing what has/hasn’t worked for me & the lessons drawn thereof. We each have individual styles, techniques & comfort levels, hence these are just my own thumb rules..
Secondly, my experience is limited to barely a month of intermittent Cluny tatting & loads of experimentation is yet to be done. So if you come across any mistakes Please write & point out so that I can rectify the errors.
Thirdly, I am still very much in need of practice. As always, please excuse the lack of precision. I am, however, displaying All my trials, including ones with glaring mistakes to showcase some progress & evolution in the learning endeavour.... if I can, You most definitely Can !!!

While Cluny Tatting had been on my to-learn list, this video recommendation suddenly ‘loomed’ up in my Inbox motivating me to try it that very instant. Tammie demonstrates Very clearly & slowly, how to make the finger loom first. I wanted to try the finger loom first in order to understand the concept. Once that was clear, it was easy to shift to artificial looms and also to experiment further.
The finger loom “worked”, but left my little pinkie all blue. So I switched the ‘loom’ to my bed , wrapping the threads around pins stuck into the mattress. Much easier, but a tad fiddly – so steadied & tensioned the loom using 2 pins for each Warp . And then, Judith Connors graciously offered to mail me her directions for making a loom out of card stock (copyright, but shared on Craftree here). Well, then I Really took off ! It is very easy to maintain an easy & comfortable grip on the tally while weaving; easier to manipulate too.

For most of my practice pieces, I have used 2 different colours so that mistakes become easy to spot & work on in future practice.

Some  Terms/Concepts  Used In  Discussion 

In order to decrease confusion, I have capitalized the W in Warp while wrap remains in small font,
Loom is made with the ball/chain/SH2 thread, forming the Warp (vertical). One can call this the Loom shuttle for convenience.
Weaving is done with the core/SH1 (or auxiliary) thread, thus forming the weft/wrap (horizontal). This can be called the Weaving shuttle for convenience.
Finger loom – when loom is made on fingers/hand by looping the Warps around fingers.
In a 3 Warp/thread loom : inner or 1st Warp (extreme left near index finger) , middle Warp, & outer Warp (extreme left towards pinkie). 
NOTE : Inner or 1st Warp is always the point where the tally starts & is attached to the previous tatting/element. This always remains the same, while the 2nd & 3rd may change if adding more Warps.
Card/Box/Artificial/Plastic loom – any artificial loom cut out from card stock, visiting cards, plastic containers, etc. In the discussion, I have used ‘card’ loom for convenience.
1 wrap/weave = movement or pass from right to left & back to right (starting point)  ; One can thus assume that 1 wrap = 2 passes in opposite directions.

Almost ready to post, and this table bug hit me ! This is a rough equivalence between normal tatting & Cluny tatting . See the similarities ?

12  Tips  for  Easier  Cluny Tatting 
While the numbering below reflects the steps involved it is more for convenience in listing.

1.  Start  Tally  with  A Stitch  ? 
Many tuts mention/show that in order to bring all the threads together & 'lock' them in place, it is preferable to make 1 ds or 1fhs on inner (1st Warp) thread, before the actual weaving begins. They also point out that it is quite difficult to flip the stitch/half stitch.  Well, a reverse stitch / Unflipped stitch or half stitch works just as well.
I start with a reverse stitch on first Warp (extreme left) of loom, Instead of a ds. Ds is difficult to make – flipping a fairly taut Warp is not easy. RS/reverse stitch works just as well.
Confirm that the loom threads are free to move, before proceeding to weave further.
Some start with a half stitch (flipped or unflipped) - this works too, but one has to be Real careful when closing the loom due to it's propensity for getting knotted. Best avoided.
Fig  1.
This step is easily omitted in a card loom where one has more control & grip over all the threads.
Also, I did not like the tiny telltale knot at the base, as visible in the close up of the Frauberger Bookmark tail#1 (indicated by arrows in above pic).

2.  Anchor  the  Loom  Shuttle
This is an idea that was buried somewhere in my subconscious from Lilas’ diagrams ! Brilliant in it’s simplicity & practicality ! No more blue fingers !!! … And now, while researching some more for the post, I came across another Great tut by Jennifer Williams who has illustrated the exact technique !
Fig 2
For finger looms, after the Warps are made & tensioned, wind the thread till the SH2 or loom shuttle is anchored firmly behind the fingers as seen in pic.
Fig 3
The same technique worked Splendidly on the card loom, with SH2 anchored behind the side slit.

3.  Slip  Off  Loop  
Continuing from the previous objective to ease the strain & tension on one's fingers/hand, one can Easily remove/slip off the loop held around pinkie. (Compare Fig 2 & 4) 
Fig 4
It can be left hanging down (not seen in pic)! If one is not comfortable or confident at the very beginning, make one complete weave & Then slip it off. Recall the SCMR where one can leave the loop hanging down after making the 1st ds.

4.  Shuttle  or  Needle ?
I have used both to do the weaving part. I am very comfortable with the shuttle on a card loom. To avoid the shuttle hook from catching the Warp threads, I hold the back end of shuttle in front & weave..
A long, thick darning needle (or tatting needle, of course) is ideal for weaving with auxiliary thread, as in the case of a hanging cluny.

5.  Weaving Order  
For right-handers, weaving starts from right to left & back to right, by going over or under the Warp threads.
Some start weaving from right to left by going over-under-over/o-u-o (& vice versa on the way back)
While others start with under-over-under/u-o-u (& vice versa on way back).
I was a bit confused when comparing some tuts, but the reason dawned on me when Judith shared her loom instructions.
Both are correct, depending on how the shuttle (weaving) thread is placed in comparison to the center/middle Warp.
Fig 5 
If the weaving SH1 is above/over the middle Warp or is in line with it, then first method is used as it immediately ‘locks’ the weaving thread on right side. Clever ClunyKaren Cabrera 
Fig 6
However, if the shuttle thread is under the middle Warp, then in a sense weaving has already begun & the 2nd method is applied. Portella Julie , Carollyn madtatter80 , Lilas, Judith Connors

6.  Check  for  Slide/mobility  
Just as in normal tatting, the core thread should be able to slide freely within the ds being made on it, similarly, the loom threads should be free to slide while the weaves are being made otherwise closing will become impossible. Keep checking, especially as a beginner, to see that the weaving is allowing the loom threads to slide easily. Remember, the 1st/inner Warp will be locked in, but all other threads should be able to slide when tugged correctly. Just a tiny tug at the centre & extreme right (outward) loom threads will ensure that no knots have formed.
Fig 7
Sometimes I hold both these together & gently pull . (see #8 for cautionary note)

7.  Tauten  the  Warps
A loom is simply a frame made of Warps, to do & hold the weaving together (just like the core thread in regular tatting). These vertical loom threads should remain taut throughout the process in order to get nicely formed tallies. In case one of the Warps slackens a bit, pull the thread segment/loop that follows/is next to it (towards the Loom/SH2). Any Warp thread can be carefully tensioned in this manner, even when the weaving is in progress, because the loom frame is formed in one contiguous sequence.  Notice the taut Warps in each of the images above – whether made on a finger loom or a card loom.

8. Tension Each Pass     
Weaving cluny leaves in this manner means having to tension Each pass for a smooth margin . One cannot make multiple passes/weaves & then pull to bring together. It will simply resist, distort, knot over in a crumpled mess.  If each pass & wrap is not tensioned, one can see a tiny bump along the margin (see pic below).
Fig 8
madtatter80 shares her interesting "dropping" motion for the 2nd pass, which quickens her pace. 

9.  Pack  Down  the  Weaves/wraps   
For a good-looking, evenly woven tally, it is essential to pack down the weaves as they are being made. It can be done with the help of a crochet hook, needle, shuttle point, etc. Or one can hold the Warp threads together in a pinch & push back the weaves (indicated in Fig.7). One thing to be careful about (I realized after some trials) is that if one pulls the rightmost/outer Warp thread too strongly, negligently, or too often, it can distort the curve of the tally, usually flattening the arc.
Fig 9
Also, notice the tiny colour blip at tip of some of the tallies where tensioning or packing down is wanting.
Opinion varies on whether a ‘tatting’ cluny should be packed down too tightly unlike a bobbin lace cluny. I guess ultimately it is the tatter’s personal definition of what is 'too tight'.

10.  In  the  Pinch  Always
Keep tally within a pinch while weaving, especially on a finger loom. (On an artificial loom, one has some leeway. In fact, I often use both hands to weave to & fro on the card loom).
This becomes Especially critical when closing the tally. If one relaxes one's pinch there is the heightened risk of getting the threads all in a knot – it is extremely difficult to unravel the knot. I speak from personal experience, where many a cluny got ‘locked in’.

11.  Weigh  Down  While  Closing    
When making tallies, many loops have to be closed in sequence, & each one has a tendency to twist . This can be very easily avoided , irrespective of the loom or tally .
As each Warp loop is removed from finger/card to start closing, place a steel crochet hook (or any slim but slightly weighty object) into the loop that is being closed . Do this as soon as you remove that loop from the loom. If one starts closing before weighing it down, chances are twisting will start & it becomes more difficult to get it all straight especially if one’s fingers are encased in the finger loom.
Fig 10
Fig 11
The steel hook provides enough weight/pressure to the closing loop to keep it from twisting & knotting itself. At the last moment, slip the ‘hook off’ & give the final tug to close the loop snugly.
Please note the pics are taken After a lot of closing has been accomplished, although the hook had been in position throughout the pulling/closing process.

12.  Hiding  Tail  Ends
It is possible to hide thread/tail ends within a tally, but requires some dexterity. Place the tail parallel to the middle Warp & weave as normal. After a few weaves over the tail, tension the tail & continue the rest of the tally . When it is complete & closed, snip off the extra tail end. Since the weaves are packed down, the tail will remain secure within. (image below).
Or one can leave enough length in the tail end to sew it through the back of a tally. However, this, again, is not easy if the weaves are densely packed down.

In the next post(s) I will cover some of the many shapes that are possible, as well as include stepwise instructions on how to make hanging clunies and 4 & 5 veined tallies on a card loom.


Cluny Tatting Resources
A lot of the above ‘tweaks’ I figured as I went, enjoying the mental challenge. However, later research threw up excellent resources, tutorials & videos that have covered many of the above points. Here is my current list that covers the topics discussed above. I will add more to the list in later posts, & in Resources Page

Tutorials for beginners  
For starters, these are an Excellent & vital first step!
  • Clever Cluny (Beginning Tatting Video Series)  After watching the 1st half of this video, I will Never forget how to make a loom - on fingers or otherwise ! I was able to continue with my tally after watching just this half ! The 2nd half deals with a cardboard loom cutout.
  • Frivolité à la navette : le point d'esprit (Cluny leaf) : Very soon after this, Julie posted a great video, too ! Although text is in French, the demo is very clear & easy to follow.
  • text is in French but very clear self-explanatory video demo. Another good finger loom tatting resource for beginners. 
  • Jennifer Williams’ Cluny Tatting Technique diagrammed with instructions . Another Excellent resource to print & refer for beginners. I only came across it a couple of days back. 
  • Lilas Lace diagrams  - superb self-explanatory diagrams . 

More Cluny Tatting Resources (in no particular order) :
Various Types of Looms & tuts 
  Cluny Tatting with Needle 

Monday, 27 July 2015

Cluny Tatting free pattern

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I had promised to post my tips, tricks, observations, experiments on Cluny Tatting . Instead of getting down to organizing the post(s), I have been enjoying the actual tatting trials (with a week long forced hiatus). Including tallies made on 4 & 5 warp looms, of which I will share the steps as I figured them out ...
I am working on the CT post, but it is looming larger than I originally planned both temporally & spatially !

Many a slip ….. :-(
So here’s the cart before the horse – a pattern before the concept & experimentation ;-P
Still a lot of practice required for consistency & beauty ....

Star Anise Studs*
*click for direct pattern download
Star Anise Studs - a free pattern
To bridge that gap, I am sharing a Cluny tatting pattern that can be used to decorate any pearl studs. It is like an insert that can be removed &/ore replaced to suit one’s outfit, mood & occasion. One can also quickly tat it up in different colours , & variations for greater variety & options. I think it is a pretty versatile & nifty piece to have around, especially for teenagers ;-)

It started as a simple flowery freeform pattern, where I had intended to add some more rings & green foliage. However, this seemed complete as is. So threads were tied & cut off.
A nifty way to spice up any old studs you may have lying around !

Cluny tatting technique used here is basic. Only the logistics & thread engineering convert it into a 3D form.
Since the petals are freeform, although a wrap count is provided, one can alter the shape, size, length, etc. to one's desire
It is a simple front-tatting only pattern where one starts with a central ring (make sure it is slightly smaller than the size of your studs) & goes on to make Cluny tatting petals & chains with decorative picots.

UPDATE : Click here for another picture showing how to make these 3-D petals (III. 3D Tally with Bead)

I haven’t drawn a diagram . The notations seemed direct enough ; however, if anyone desires, please let me know & I will diagram the pattern.
I have, however, listed some ideas for variations on this prototype.

The name has been chosen because they resemble the spice. However, a Google search also revealed their similarity to flowers such as the Purple Loosestrife & Clematis
No stiffening was required - the petals hold their shape if the wraps are sufficiently dense/packed down.
This is how the tatting looks from behind, with the stud in place.

These can be easily converted into a separate earring ....
Add a pearl or bead in central ring directly. Add the findings in the last petal pair & you have a complete earring !

4 & 5 warp clunies can be used for the back petal as they will naturally become larger & broader. 

2 different shades/colours can be used for the front & back petals.

I have a question for designers please : How can I get a shareable pdf link with customized name ? I tried Google Docs, but it converted the 2-page pattern into 4 pages !!! Google search was of no help either ; probably didn't ask the right question ?!

Sunday, 19 July 2015

Renulek’s Wiosna Doily - II

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Designer : Renulek
(click for the original ) 
The Reveal !!!

I’m not calling it the Grand Finalé : questions remain – is it grand / obscure ; is it really final / to be redone later ?!  Well, whatever it is it’s done for now. And I can certainly say it is unorthodox & experimental, perhaps even quirky.  Will I ever come back to rework the last round(s) – I’d like to, but doubt it. Rather make a different one .

The discussion is 'broken' into some categories that may be worth considering – some of the factors that went into my reasoning (!). Although categorized, the format is a kind of stream of consciousness, based on relevant comments, my feelings, & mental calisthenics that led to decisions (along with final thoughts on the same). I think the categories might act as designing tattisms for beginners, as well as when making all the choices for a new tatting project. Details of Rounds 1-9 in previous post here.
All comments can be read here, & here. I would strongly recommend a quick perusal – it is a treasure trove of experienced sharing. In order to avoid confusion, the name of the commentator has not been changed. I wish I could’ve added each person’s name for their valuable inputs.
Relevant rounds are indicated in image, for reference 

1.  Spacing 
Round 10 : To Do Or Not To Do
While I focused on the colour arrangement, I learned something important about designing from Anonymous (StephanieW). Spacing within & between rounds to balance lightness/laciness with heavier/denser pattern. That was the reason a simple round like this was required to space out 2 denser rounds !
Another angle to Spacing can be in the ‘distancing oneself’ sense, either temporally & physically (as suggested by Martha) . It generally brings perspective & restores motivation.

2.  Filling v/s Featuring 
Round 10 : Black & Beige Or All-Beige

This can be part of the Spacing aspect, but I think it deserves a Special mention, because it has functional implications for designing as well as for choosing colours. mb duke introduced this perspective (new to me) . Consider whether a round is a “filler” round or a “feature” round. In these times of colour tatting, the tatter can choose which rounds s/he wants to bring forth/highlight, & which can be kept in the background. The terms are self-explanatory. Filler round(s) serve mainly to highlight the Feature round(s), hence will be more in the background, with subdued/muted colours & patterns. Feature rounds can’t be clubbed close together, otherwise their identity & usp will get lost; hence fillers are essential. Both play a crucial role.

My Feature rounds in this doily, from the start, were the individual cream flowers in Rnd 5, the undulating Rnd 6, & Rnd 9. Unfortunately, Rnd 6 became muted when I chose maroon for Rnd 4 & therefore couldn’t repeat it so soon. It became a feature round unintentionally.
As for Round 10 : Went with the majority vote & chose to do it in 2 colours. Since the Feature Rnd 9 was a light shade of cream, a darker colour was required to highlight it. Black did that highlighter job , while the beige chains & rings on the outer edge served as a subdued filler for the last dark coloured round. Can the same round can act partly as a feature, partly as filler ?

3.  Echoing 
Round 11 as Round 4 : Match or Mix ?
Rounds 4 & 11 are identical in pattern. So if an earlier round has been done in a particular colour(s), should the latter also follow through ? Jane McLellan , Lace-lovin' Librarian ~ Diane & my DH thought there Should be echoing .
I agree, but then I should’ve spaced it with the filler Rnd 10 (which most recommended); a mistake that could only be rectified by snipping what I had already tatted.
Also, I did want a black outline to bring it all together – I didn’t quite like to stop at that particular pattern, because after all, it was the same as an earlier round. So it didn’t seem like a Final round to me. My intention was to add a black chains-only outlining round, Echoing the Contours of the previous round .
I did neither ;-(
4.  “Muddying the Waters”
Round 11 : Maroon & Black
I delayed, I procrastinated, I over-thought, I overanalyzed, I stalled, I shelved, …. the waters had been thoroughly muddied :-(  Following GraceT’s advice, I started a maroon rings & black chains last round over the Round 10. But I still couldn’t decide ! At times it seemed okay, at others it seemed too dark & heavy. My brain went into freeze mode. Stoically, in order to complete what no longer excited me, I continued with the remaining half, differently from the previous half. Thus paying a price for my ambivalence & overthinking . Follow Fox’s advice to avoid “overthinking & muddying the waters”. It Will have a ripple effect !

5.  “Tablescaping” 
Round 11 : This Half Or That Half ?!

With my mind in a tizzy whether to continue or cut, each stitch seemed a burden (and meanwhile I had tasted the pleasures of tatting a doily in size 40 thread !) . Practicality took over . Madtatter80 used this lovely term ‘tablescape’ – what & where will the item be used on/for ? This can inform our decisions regarding choice of pattern, size, colour, shape, & so on.

I rationalized, that since this doily was going to be draped over my sewing machine, which is against a wall & window, only One side/half will be visible at any given time ! Problem solved ! I had already ‘broken the round’ in Rnds 6 & 7; I could do it again ! So that’s the story … Both halves stayed. Any changes in decision are relegated yet again to another day in the faraway future.

6.  Spanning
Round 10/11 : Closing The Gaps
Practical decisions can still leave some lacunae. One half of doily had Round 10 missing & I was in no mood to add the black chains-only final round to the maroon half as initially intended. That meant a gaping hole on both sides, where the twain shall met.
Closing the gap with rings & chains in keeping with the pattern, was the obvious choice. But I had just got into learning Cluny tatting. Tallies, especially hanging tallies/clunies could so easily span the gap !!! How very tempting, considering my huge preference for freeform, free style tatting !
An Olive Branch, it was that brought Peace to my tortured mind ! 3 leaves each on a twig.
These are still at the beginner stage, so the weave is not too tight & even. Plus I was working in a small confined space, with Lots of threads hanging about (I didn’t want to cut & hide, in case this didn’t work & something else needed to be done). My inexperience also meant a lot of undoing & redoing. But my excitement remained unabated.
I had picked out the linen cloth over which the doily will be draped (a deep blue type colour, over which I had taken a few previous pics), but couldn’t find it again for these pics. When I do find it I will take a couple more pics – that background does true justice to all the colours.

All in all a very eventful, exciting. & enlightening journey, though it stretched out a bit towards the end because of my ambivalence.

Crystal Ball Gazing 
After the Horse has Fled the Stables !
If I get into the zone to cut off & retat the last rounds of this doily, I would go with black & beige for Rnd 10 & all maroon for Rnd 11.
Hmm, or, all beige for Rnd 10 & maroon & black for Rnd 11.
Errr, black & beige for Rnd 10 & all maroon for Rnd 11 & a Rnd 12 black chained outline ….

Crrraaaaaashhhh ! Broke the rounds, now broke the globe/crystal ball !

Huge Thanks to Renulek for a Lovely Pattern & a thoroughly enlightening journey
I sincerely apologise if my experiments & version send shivers down your spine

Very Special thanks to All who contributed their valuable suggestions – 
 each one has been very helpful & insightful, & it's given me a great deal of perspective ! 

I hope you do leave a comment telling me what you truly feel about the final result - what you dislike/what you like .... 

I start my 3rd round of the 25 Motif Challenge. Check out this resourceful site full of wonderful tatting.
And now I can finally add the Wiosna to the 25 Motif count , 
and celebrate my 100th post :-D

Motif #1/III for 25 Motif Challenge

Thursday, 16 July 2015

Renulek's Wiosna Doily - I

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Wiosna 2015 Tat-Along*
Designer : Renulek 
Rounds 1-9
*(click for her version) 

Those who have been diligently following my journey through this gorgeous pattern, are aware of how much I learned & applied tatting wisdom compiled by generations , my experiments with coloursAnd tatting technique options ; know the dilemmas I faced, especially the last 2 rounds. I sought advice on the decisions to take at this crossroad, & you willingly & wisely suggested 2 main paths. 

I shelved the doily for many weeks, grazing in newer tatting pastures.
I was finally jolted out of my lethargy of stalled progress by 3 in-work project images (1 on Craftree & 2 blog posts), All within 24 hours !!! Was it a sign ?! I took it as one :-)

Since I haven’t yet shared pics after each round, on my blog, here’s each leg of the journey (with close ups of the later rounds) .... Click on any pic for larger images.

Renulek’s  Wiosna  Doily  2015


Colour (AMC 20)
Bobbin loads in brackets **

Techniques used

Finished size ;
Width of individual round

  * All bold coloured words are direct links 
 ** 1 bobbin load holds approx. 6.6 m or 7.2 yards of size 20 thread
    Joining picots in most rounds were small as per instructions.
 SH1 cream ( 1 )
 SH2 beige ( ½ )
 FS/BS tatting
 Decorative picot
 Thrown Ring, LJ
 >3” / 8cm
 Makes a lovely  coaster/medalliion
 SH1 pink (1½ )
 SH2 pink (1)
 FS/BS tatting
 Lock Join
 5” / 13cm ;
 ~ 1½” wide
 SH1 beige (1½ )
 SH2 beige (1)
 FS/BS tatting
 <6½” / 16cm ;
 ½” wide

 Rnd 4
 SH1 maroon (4½)
 SH2 maroon (2½)
 Rnd 5
 SH  cream (3)
 FS/BS tatting
 SSSR ; anchoring vsp  for petals & Rnd 4 long  chains .
 Decorative picots
 >10” / 26cm ;
 2” wide
 With Rnd 5:
 11½” / 29cm ;
 Each flower 1”
 Flower motifs of Rnd 5  were made First &  joined while tatting  Rnd 4.
 SH1 pink (3)
 SH2 beige (3)
 FS/BS tatting
 decorative picot
 Thrown Ring
 An “SLT join”
 12½” / 32cm ;
 1¼” wide
 Colours switched for  segments, not for  elements .
 6 segments each
 SH1 pink
 SH2 beige
 FS/BS tatting
 decorative picot
 Floating Ring
 An “SLT join”
 Lock Join
 14½” / 37cm ;
 ¾” wide
 Elaine’s Reverse Join  would’ve been ideal to  switch colours  between segments.
 Details of Rnd 6-7
 SH1 black (1)
 SH2 black (1)
 FS/BS tatting
 anchoring vsp for long  chains.
 16¼” / 41cm ;
 ¾” wide
 SH1 cream (5)
 SH2 cream (5)
 FS/BS tatting
 Directional tatting
 Decorative picots
 Slip & Roll join
 Lock Join
 18” / 46cm ;
 1” wide
 15 repeats in 2 full  bobbin loads.

Various ways of tatting Rnd 9 detailed here
 SH1 black (1)
 SH2 beige (2)
 FS/BS tatting
 Floating rings
 Decorative picots
 20” / 50cm ;
 2” wide
 maroon (8)
 CTM 3½ repeats.
 maroon (6)
 black (4)
 FS/BS tatting
 Decorative picots,
 Cluny Tatting

 22” or 24” ;
 2” wide
 Picots eliminated –  only 1 per chain
            muskaan (2015)  

I will continue the last leg of this journey in the next post.
Thanks & hugs to all for being so patient & supportive


I have uploaded the pattern & diagram for the Tails & Charms used in Robin’s Frauberger Bookmark (on request by GS). Although I have updated the post (and also added another picture showing the bookmark with a Single tail), the title here is also a direct link to the pdf. 

Related Posts : Tails of Bookmarks

happy tatting :-)