Sewing lace

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The Forgotten Lace

I simply Cannot rely on my memory ! 

So many items that I’ve made & gifted down the years have just vanished from my memory box :-(

Last week, when my MIL sent in some sewing/refitting of petticoats, I asked her to send along a fit sample to refer to. She loves crochet laces along the hemline, and has always had hand-crocheted laces sewn on – mostly her own !

Turned out one of the laces was made by her DIL ! Moi? Quand?

It does have my preference of working the lace from side to side (width-wise) till the required length. Imagine having to crochet an almost 2 meter long chain & then working each row lengthwise ! Messy. (I’ve done it for a couple of my Grandma’s petticoat laces, though, when I did not have too many books/patterns to choose from).

I need to rummage through my books to find the pattern … will update when I do. If I can rely on my memory to remind me later ;-P
I like the fact that this pattern can be made as broad or narrow as desired/required !!!

Above are a few very quick pics I took, before sending it back to her. Didn’t have time to iron ….

But time to crochet a New broad lace for her !!!

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What this post is really about is the way my MIL sewed on the lace to the fabric edge.

Note : These are not new edgings – many have been in use for decades, switching to new fabric …. 

Sewing Lace

in 2 easy steps

I like the way the edging is machine-sewn, in 2 simple steps. Here are a couple of process pics …

Place right sides touching & sew along the edge.

STEP 1  

Place lace along hemline : Right side of lace touching the Right side of fabric/hem.

Sew over, along the edges. 

STEP 2  

Turn the lace over (‘open’ towards the right), 

so that both lace & fabric are right side up. 

Top-stitch as close to edge of fabric, as possible. 

 TADA !

TIP : There is only one thing I would do differently. In the above pics, the fabric hem is completely sewn, before the lace is being attached ; thus it has 3 layers already. Add to that the lace, & then the turned down lace & fabric … and you have many layers to sew over.

To reduce the bulk, fold of fabric just once (simply tacked in place), then follow the 2 steps above. This would eliminate a couple of fabric layers, as well as the sewing lines.

But I do like the result ! Quick, too, and very durable !

Of course, if one does not want any part of sewing to be seen, then this process will not work, especially the 2^nd top-stitch step. In the end, one needs to consider where & for what purpose the edging/lace is to be attached & how it is to be used.

I’m certain most of you already know & do this. But you can understand why I have to post, right ? This is my memory deposit for a future ‘cloudy’ day ;-P

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My Mom-in-Law’s Crochet Laces

My MIL has done tons of crochetwork – making multiple sets for gifting, or personal use, etc. – ranging from doilies (in all shapes & sizes), edgings, laces, to entire patchwork bedsheets !!! I will share some of her work over time …

Here are a couple of her other petticoat laces (the ones she sent me to sew on) : 

As you can see, I’ve completed only step 1 in this case.

Both steps completed in this case.

The one pictured in the 'tutorial' above

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In Conversation

A bit of ‘news’ … I’ve added a new page to the blog, titled ‘My Tutorials’. It is still under collation, though.

I added some explanation to my previous post ‘Kitty with an Auxiliary Tale’ 

I realized that for many who haven’t seen the pattern, my working of the face may seem confusing. And I had not explained my rationale, anyways !

So please click on links to check out both :-)

Kitty with an Auxiliary Tale

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A blue-eyed Tortoiseshell Kitty !

“Kitty Face”

Designer : L Shelby *

This kitty face was designed & shared by Lavenderbard, here, as a Halloween piece. She shares the pattern on her site, and is in the process of preparing a pdf too.

I got a bit muddled up on my first test trial. Sometimes I focus too little, sometimes too much :-( Or was my long-term Eleonore’s Angels Project messing up my neurons ? Whatever it was, the 1^st trial was left unfinished because of a mistake that needed untatting or snipping, I decided to start afresh. This first attempt, though, did help me get a clearer picture ; and the experience was applied to tat it my way (I always have to challenge myself, why?!). 

Fur colour choice was inspired by Ginny's working of this adorable cat, here , and without realizing, mine turned out to be a  blue-eyed Tortoiseshell cat ! Thanks Grace & Lavenderbard - didn't know it was a "tortie" :-)

Techniques (including those I used) : starting chain with vsp, Split Ring, very small joining picots, Lock Join, CTM, Turn Work (I used Fold/Turn Chain instead), auxiliary thread tatting, Single Shuttle Split Ring, Catherine Wheel Join,.

Thread : Anchor Mercer Crochet Cotton, size 20.

Variegated fur -1218 ; Blue eyes – 0131 ; black ears & nostrils. 

I loaded 2 shuttles, CTM, with variegated thread. Since both shuttles had same thread, I did not have to worry about colour blips, etc.

A study of the pattern showed that the 2 other colours were required in Rings, & each ring was anchored. So, auxiliary threads should work well, I reasoned. Here’s how I did the rings using short lengths of auxiliary thread ...AND  NO  KNOTS !

UPDATE :

I was given to understand that the following is a bit technical.  That made me realise that I hadn't set it down logically or rationally. So let me try to explain .....
When we use auxiliary thread,  ie., a 3rd thread, one of the 3 threads is usually Encapsulated or hidden within, and carried along to the point where it is made visible again; and at that time, one of the other threads/colour may become encapsulated.  Encapsulation requires Unflipped or Reverse Stitches.

What I attempted was simply to add a 3rd thread of desired colour at a given point, tat 'normally' (without encapsulation) , and then continue along with original 2 threads. No need to carry a 3rd colour for any distance, hidden.  Simply bring in where necessary....

Moreover,  I didn’t have to use knots anywhere. Also, the resin why the blue/auxiliary thread was not joined at base of ring right at beginning,  was so I could get the final SSSR loop to become anchored, since the ring is not a 'free' ring - it is joined to the chain picot .

I hope this brings some more clarity ? Thank you so so much for the feedback !

I have not shared stitch counts & other details ... For that please refer to the pattern at L Shelby's site (direct link given above).

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For Eyes & Ears  

1. 1^st eye made. One can see the cut blue tail ends. 

I’ve now reached the point where 2^nd eye needs to be made.  

2. Start the ring ‘separately’, hiding the tail within first few stitches; 

and join to the picot on left.

 3. Continue & complete the ring as an SSSR. Close ring. But before pulling the lower loop, pass SH2 through the loop, to anchor/lock the SSSR.

4. Then pull the loop tight, having encapsulated SH2 thread.

5. The ring is now anchored at base (as if it had started right there). Cut the blue tail end (or if you prefer to sew it in …) and continue tatting with the 2 main shuttles.

[ After completing this right eye (Ring C),  I made a CWJ to join to the central nose ring (Ring B). That is the only place it was used.]

Similarly, add black auxiliary thread twice for ears (again SSSRs).

There was one hitch, though. The tip of the ear has a 1ds, picot, 1ds join, which became tricky with the SSSR. So, I had to skip that part & continue, thus making the ears more pointy. But I’m still happy with the result.

For Nostrils 

The lower nostrils are Split Rings, and include a chain in black. Hence, for this, one can cut off SH2 thread before starting with the SR (or leave the SH2 thread dangling, & cut it off right at the end & hide).

Make SR in 2 colours, using black auxiliary thread, continue with chain above, in black (with SH1 core thread), climb down through the right 2-coloured SR, and then continue with black as core thread & beige stitches showing in the chin. Join to starting picot & tie & cut & hide.

L Shelby has done a tremendous job of diagramming & writing out the pattern in detail. Love her quirky kitty-ear-shaped picot notations in the text :-)

One can use this face as a little mask on a stuffed toy/ornament, by blocking over a curved surface ! Finished face measures 2”x 2¼” in size 20

I haven’t blocked the piece – my laziness got to me again :-(

happy tatting :-)

Motif #11/III for 25 Motif Challenge

Pattern: Eleonore's Angels

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Jigsaws to the rescue !

Who knew ?!

Who knew my love of puzzles, & jigsaws in particular, would help me solve a tatting pattern ?!

You know I love challenges, and true to form “fools rush in …” I readily agreed to do some summer homework for the Online Tatting Class, which incidentally/ironically, involved “angels”.

Single Angel medallion, tatted in one pass

Before proceeding with my trials ....(click on links to download)

The pattern is by Eleonore Endrucks Leichtenstern : Pattern #22 from Schiffchen-Spitzen 1920 and this book is in public domain. It can be downloaded from Georgia Seitz’s Archive (listed as Endrucks 1920 and Endrucks 1920 diagrams insert) . For modern version : Eleonore’s Angel Lace

A normal, 2-shuttle pattern, requiring only a knowledge of thrown rings (or rings on chain), & lock join followed by very small picot (or any preferred block tatting method). Yes, that's it ! 

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My Trials with

Eleonore's Angel Lace *

After quite a bit of puzzlement, I decided to make the very 1^st edging pattern in her book, in order to get a sense of her designing, diagrams, writing, & notations (this will be shared later, along with pattern & an adapted coaster/edging).

Even so, I could comprehend only parts of her pattern & went ahead to tat those like a puzzle, hoping to fit pieces together later. As you can see in the pic below, the jigsaw rule was followed , by seeking out the ‘corners’ first …(Can you see another angel profile there ?!) 

Once these were done, it became fairly easy & within 2 days, the entire pattern was decoded ! It is large in size 20, hence for all subsequent tatting, size 40 was used.

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ROW 1

But let's start afresh. 

Having succeeded at piecing the puzzle together in size 20, I picked up purple (& white) in size 40. The lace/broad edging , despite it's elaborate & large size, is Only a Two-Row pattern !

Following are pics of Row 1, tatted in one pass. 

And also playing with it in various formations  ...

Single Repeat of Row 1 

TIP : When block tatting chains curve inwards, in concave fashion (as the block over the large ring on right), one can decrease the chain segment by 1ds each, to avoid cramping.

I did this much later, only in the Angelette tatted in white (2nd last pic below).

2 Repeats of Row 1

2 repeats of Row 1, when folded inwards

Choker Necklace, with beads & a tiny ring.
(when Row 1 is folded inwards. 2 repeats, one pass)

TIP : Excellent use of block tatting to move over distances, to move in diverse directions, to return to desired point, ..... spanning large areas, yet covering them with lacy effect.

4 repeats of Row 1, joined back to starting point.
A beautiful curved-corner edging/lace, tatted in one pass !

When Row 1 is folded 'outwards', it forms a 
V-shaped/triangular edging or necklace/choker !

4 repeats of Row 1 & joined back to starting point.
A 'Points n Curves' Edging for square/rectangular 

coasters, or mats, again, all tatted in one pass !

The 2 pics above have a part of Row 2 (last section - the outward-facing arches) included between each Row 1 repeat.

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Are you enjoying the genius of this designer ? Isn't it a marvel ?!  

Let's now move to Row 2 & see what is in store :-)

ROW 2

Steps 10-15 when starting Row 2, were a bit more puzzling than the rest, especially getting the curves & shuttles in place. Hence, I added 2 pics - one from front & other from behind to show how it looks.
Note : there are No SLTs in the entire pattern, which involves 2 shuttles. 

  

One repeat of Row 2 complete .

Confession : When I first laid eyes on the pattern, it did not appeal to me. Seemed to lack elegance. But as I tatted samplers and saw the potential, I kept getting drawn in to the brilliance of this design, and the designer. I intend to try out more of her patterns in future ....

2 complete repeats of Lace pattern 

2 complete repeats of Lace pattern, continued with
partial Row 2, & joined back, to create a square

2 partial repeats of Row 2, when folded inwards,
create another snug-fitting square !

Did Eleonore do jigsaw puzzles ? See how neatly each 'tile'/piece has been fitting in with adjacent 'tiles', irrespective of which tile or aspect or part thereof one chooses ?!

Angelette extracted from within the 2-Row medallion.
Tatted in one pass, with pearl & gold beads

TIP : For peripheral chains in blocks, one can replace LJs with CWJ for smoother outlines. However,  CWJ cannot be used in the concentric chain block on the right ... that requires concave tatting. Having decreased the concavely-worked block chain from 6 to 5 ds, it lies flatter now.

One single medallion tatted in One Pass !
(without last segment of Row 2) CWJs used

My tatting leaves a lot to be desired. And I keep thinking what I should/shouldn't have done... the vsp could've been even smaller for one; blocks could've been neater... And I absolutely should've blocked the pieces before photographing! But hope the tattiness of my tatting does not keep you from giving Endrucks book a go.

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Besides the fact that each piece fits immaculately with others, in different formations, do you want more proof of her mathematically impeccable design ?

• Both rows have the exact same number of steps : 44 !
• Both rows require the exact same length of thread  : 30yards/28m CTM for 4 repeats !
• And although I haven't calculated, 'chances' are the number of knots is the same too, right ?! (I doubt she left anything to "chance", though)

For those interested :

DIMENSIONS FOR SINGLE MEDALLION/REPEAT :

In Size 40 thread :

ROW 1  : 3¼” (<8½cm) along base ; 1¼” (3cm) across top ;  <1¼” (3cm) high

ROW 2 :

Segments v-vii : ~4 cms across narrow ‘base’ ; 5½ cms across outer tips ; 3½ cms high (at tips) ; 2½ cms high in middle

Segment viii : 2 cms wide x ~2 cms high

In Size 20 thread :

ROW 1:  <4½” (11cm) base ; 2” (5cm) top ; 1¾” (4½cm) high

ROW 2 :

Segs v-vii :  2” wide at narrow ‘base’ ; 3” broadest ; 2” high (at tips) ; >1” high in middle

Seg viii : 1” high ; 1¼” wide 

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Tatting these does not take time. Really ! Writing & diagramming the pattern was like a never-ending process. So many drafts & redrafts had to be made & rejected, till everything seemed to be as logical as possible.  If you have any questions or difficulties, feel free to ask away.
I tatted FS/BS (using RODS) & have written & diagrammed accordingly, with colour coding, though it is Optional. However, if anybody finds that too intimidating, & wants an All-black pattern, please let me know & I will convert it into an all-black diagram/text & send/upload.
I will also post patterns for all the adaptations/derivations as they get completed.

The pattern was taught by Georgia on Nov 2nd, 2015 

Motifs 6-10 / III for 25 Motif Challenge

Happy Tatting :-)