Tuesday, 4 August 2015

A Loom for All "Clunies"

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A loom is your oyster. With the right choice, one can belt out beautiful pearls
in the form of tally leaves & petals !

After some initial tallies made on my finger loom I switched to Judith Connors’ Cluny Tatting Loom for all the rest of my practice, trials, & experiments. I sincerely thank her for sharing her loom , without which I’d have faced many limitations.

The copyright for this loom belongs to Judith Connors. Hence I will not share the dimensions, etc. of the card loom, although all looms are basically the same functionally & one can follow their instructions too (listed at end of post). In 2 posts, I will share only my own way of using it to make various kinds of tallies, which, so far, I haven’t come across. I can’t thank Judith enough for sharing her expertise ! 
  
I made the loom from a good sized piece of cardstock. It is sturdy yet pliable : place it on any horizontal surface & while weaving, I allow the card to curve a bit (from the top edge). This gives the shuttle plenty of space to make the passage to & fro ! A smaller loom (see Judith's tips below) becomes much more portable. But since I can no longer tat on-the-go, my ‘larger’ loom works splendidly. Moreover, I cut more slits along both edges, top & bottom, of the card This allows a great deal of flexibility in use --- the SAME loom can be used to make hanging tallies, tallies with more than 2 veins , and so on ! Truly a loom for All "clunies" :-)

TIPS from Judith Connors : 
“Use a pencil to raise all the threads above the surface of the cardboard, like the bridge of a violin”. (post #5 here) 
“The measurements of the loom may be enlarged or reduced, even to using an old credit/loyalty card. … once you have the gist of the technique, one can reduce bulk in one’s tatting bag/box by creating the smaller loom” (here)

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UPDATE - 
See brand new Colour Cluny Tatting pictorials 2018 (including some basics) listed here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/my-tut.html

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HANGING   CLUNY  LEAF   ( HCL )
My main attraction towards Cluny tatting has been in their potential & beauty in freeform & dimensional tatting. They can take such wonderfully natural leafy or petal-like shapes ! And of course, as I later realized, many polygonal shapes as well.

A hanging cluny is like a tatted ring in the sense that after the tally is made, the threads all emerge back at the same point from they started viz., at the base. Besides their appearance, they are functional too, & can bridge a gap (as in my 2-in-1 Wiosna) .

In the tuts that I consulted, either a floss threader was used (which I could not acquire, despite getting my DH on the hunt), or the centre loop/Warp made with thread or dental floss, was left ‘unsecured’, making it a bit floppy to handle & pack down.

Additionally, in case one is using auxiliary thread to weave, too many threads hang down in a finger loom . 
So here’s my easy solution :

Easy Hanging Cluny Leaf on a Card Loom
Following is a pictorial of how I applied the card loom for HCL . I used a size 20 AMC thread, doubled up to form a loop & knotted at the tail end. One can insert the loop into the slits & then place the knot so that it gets anchored behind as in Tip#2 in previous post. ( Many more tips are covered in the same post).





 

Since the weaving thread needs to be pulled out through the base when the tally is complete, one can use another length of auxiliary thread. Or, one can unwind the shuttle & allow the entire length to pull through. It is obviously advisable to use shorter lengths of weaving thread for hanging clunies.
All closing is done by gentle pulling .
The tiny space of weaving thread loop is left so as to avoid ‘locking in’ as well as to keep leaf shape from getting distorted while closing. This is also the loop that can form a picot (see below) .
This was my very first HCL. Hence, while closing it, I did not take pics of individual steps. I have tried to indicate with help of colours, numbers & arrows. But for a clearer understanding, there are Excellent tutorials by Karen Cabrera & Ruth Perry from which I learned . 

I often tend to leave the loops on the loom till it becomes absolutely essential to remove & close. The loop(s) that are not being closed can stay on the loom, instead of coming in one’s way. Also, then I don’t need to pull & check which thread needs to be pulled next, because the loops are already in their sequence on the loom. This is Really handy when making tallies with more than 3 Warps.
It is easier to weave HCLs with a darning or tatting needle, since short length of auxiliary thread is required !

Potential of Hanging Cluny Tatting :
Great stash buster – use up short lengths of scrap thread as auxiliary thread to weave leaves.
Colour Spectrum – the same motif/piece can have tallies in different colours !
Picots & Beads – One can add a picot at the tip of the hanging cluny leaf if one needs to join to it later. Beads at the tip or within the leaf ….
In order to demonstrate how I made a picot, I started a tally. But then decided to carry on to make a complete piece. Although the colours are not right, it is a Cluny tatting variation on my Rustic Leaf pattern here. But I did jot down the stitch count, etc. & will share it soon. Again, this is only a practice piece, but I won’t have time in near future to do it properly …



All Hanging Cluny leaves as veins, joined at base by Josephine Chains 
& at tips by padded ds tatting for 3D effect

 UPDATE : Ninetta Caruso has shared another way here, of making picots along the edge of the Cluny leaf ... by making a reverse stitch (unflipped ds) with picot space between the 2 hitches, on the loom thread !
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 SPLIT   CLUNY
Why do I pin, if I don’t go back to refer to them ?! A few months back, I had pinned an image of a tally being made. Back then I had no concept of the various forms/techniques involved; it just seemed like a great stepwise pictorial for the future reference. Now, as I scrolled through my Pinterest Board , & went back to the site, it turned out to be a ‘3rd kind’ of tally viz., the Split Cluny !

Split Cluny method was developed by Melanie Blowers, a student of Mimi Dillman. Mimi has a neat pictorial with instructions on how to make them , and also various tips & functions related to them .  

It just so happened that I Needed to use this technique to correct/rectify an error almost immediately ! I was playing with a Cluny tatting bracelet (tentatively called “Geometatic” Bracelet/Rakhi). All tallies were regular tallies. But while closing one of them, the middle loop refused to budge. It wasn’t yet ‘knotted up’ but I was scared the thread would break if I pulled too hard ; so I emptied the loom shuttle and pulled this last thread ‘tail’ through the other end. Finally, with gentle persuasion & perseverance, the open loop yawned to a close, but too late : I now had the loom thread & weaving thread at Opposite ends of the tally !
After some thought, I added an auxiliary thread with weaver’s knot, made the loom with this auxiliary thread, & started the tally weaving with the ‘original loom thread’. One of the tails was hidden in the back while weaving the tally. Never hurts to learn a new technique ;-P





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And one can hide the tail within a tally, as I mentioned in Tip #12 in previous post. Since there wasn't a pic then, I've added one here :
Keep the tail parallel to the left or central Warp while weaving, treating both tail & Warp thread as one. 

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 Now for la pièce de résistance .....  
A  Lego  Loom for Cluny Tatting !!! 

My DH hasn’t been able to suppress a wry/amused smile, watching me weaving on the card loom (I keep him abreast of a few terms ;-P); even teasing me at times. Yet, watching my ‘focus’ & movements, his engineering brain kicked in & he asserted that other materials could be used. Here’s what he immediately came up with : an electrical connector ! 

Great idea but it needed to be steadied because the Warps need to be taut. So this would have to be glued down or nailed down to some board.
But don’t you see something else here ? Yesssssss ! A Lego block !

  • Make a loom with blocks stacked up higher on one end of the board & lower at the bottom end (this will provide the height/lift for easy passage of weaver shuttle), 
  • wrap the loops for the Warp around the little knobs on both ends of the loom blocks, 
  • place blocks over these to 'lock in' the Warps, 
  • and weave away. 

It is so versatile, can be assembled/dissembled at will. Distance between Warps And the number of Warps can be easily changed …. Game anyone ?!

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My final post will cover Shapes & multiple veins , and the factors that can affect tally shapes.

Tally Ho  &  Happy Tallying :-D

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 More Links to Cluny Tatting
Various Types of Looms & tuts 
Hanging Cluny Leaf

Split Cluny


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Related Posts : Cluny Tatting Tips

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Wednesday, 29 July 2015

Cluny Tatting Tips

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Cluny Tatting – My First Trials

This is not a post about how to make tallies/clunies. There are many wonderful online tutorials (text, diagram, video) to which I will add links as I go. In this post, I will be giving my own take/options on how to get results easily, what should be absolutely avoided, or why a certain thing is done in relation to particular tuts … just a few tips here & there, that might be helpful to someone starting out – simply to show that one does not have to follow only one style &/or follow it dogmatically.
Secondly, these are my first trials & the tallies are not all good or identical. My main aim in learning Cluny tatting is in the potential for free style/ freeform & 3D tatting, & of course the diverse shapes & effects they can create, so I was not too concerned when all my classic oval tallies did not come out identical.
There is still a Whole lot of learning, experimenting, & practicing required !

About Cluny Tatting 

1. Cluny "Tatting" - it is not strictly tatting (this style originated in lace making & requires weaving, not knotting);
2. Cluny (in the capital) refers to the museum in Paris where it was first exhibited
3. 'cluny' is again a misnomer - the form/element that is woven is called a tally (or leaf/petal), not a cluny. However the latter has taken root (& admittedly, I do like the term ;-P) & is here to stay, but there is no harm in knowing a bit of factoid.
"Put simply, ‘Cluny Tatting’ is a design style which incorporates tallies, leaves or petals". Judith Connors

Why Cluny Tatting ?

Tallies add texture, density, interest, feature, novelty, beauty, …. They add a point of contrast between open lace (rings) & filled-in/coloured-in elements/rings . Weaving introduces an embroidered effect, too. 
But they are Functional as well !
A normal tally will act like a chain or a split ring to carry both threads from one end to the other, thus spanning a space.
A hanging cluny/tally will acts like a normal/regular ring where the threads return to the starting point, at the base.
Thus, almost any ring or chain in a pattern can be converted into a cluny/tally !
Both types of tallies have the potential for classic oval shape, or for freeform leaf, petal, & even regular Geometric shapes !!! Think of the Vast potential these shapes have/can have in our tatting – whether in freestyle tatting, in 3D, in jewelry, besides the flat 2D usage in doilies, etc.
And if a finger loom is difficult to mqke or sustain (“the death grip”!), then there are varied kinds of looms that can be cut out/made from materials within the home (listed at end of post). Even in a finger loom, I hope some of the tips listed below will help ease the tension in the hand (more on how versatile a single card loom can be in next post).

Disclaimer : I am sharing what has/hasn’t worked for me & the lessons drawn thereof. We each have individual styles, techniques & comfort levels, hence these are just my own thumb rules..
Secondly, my experience is limited to barely a month of intermittent Cluny tatting & loads of experimentation is yet to be done. So if you come across any mistakes Please write & point out so that I can rectify the errors.
Thirdly, I am still very much in need of practice. As always, please excuse the lack of precision. I am, however, displaying All my trials, including ones with glaring mistakes to showcase some progress & evolution in the learning endeavour.... if I can, You most definitely Can !!!

While Cluny Tatting had been on my to-learn list, this video recommendation suddenly ‘loomed’ up in my Inbox motivating me to try it that very instant. Tammie demonstrates Very clearly & slowly, how to make the finger loom first. I wanted to try the finger loom first in order to understand the concept. Once that was clear, it was easy to shift to artificial looms and also to experiment further.
The finger loom “worked”, but left my little pinkie all blue. So I switched the ‘loom’ to my bed , wrapping the threads around pins stuck into the mattress. Much easier, but a tad fiddly – so steadied & tensioned the loom using 2 pins for each Warp . And then, Judith Connors graciously offered to mail me her directions for making a loom out of card stock (copyright, but shared on Craftree here). Well, then I Really took off ! It is very easy to maintain an easy & comfortable grip on the tally while weaving; easier to manipulate too.

For most of my practice pieces, I have used 2 different colours so that mistakes become easy to spot & work on in future practice.

Some  Terms/Concepts  Used In  Discussion 

 In order to decrease confusion, I have capitalized the W in Warp while wrap remains in small font,
Loom is made with the ball/chain/SH2 thread, forming the Warp (vertical). One can call this the Loom shuttle for convenience.
Weaving is done with the core/SH1 (or auxiliary) thread, thus forming the weft/wrap (horizontal). This can be called the Weaving shuttle for convenience.
Finger loom – when loom is made on fingers/hand by looping the Warps around fingers.
In a 3 Warp/thread loom : inner or 1st Warp (extreme left near index finger) , middle Warp, & outer Warp (extreme left towards pinkie). 
NOTE : Inner or 1st Warp is always the point where the tally starts & is attached to the previous tatting/element. This always remains the same, while the 2nd & 3rd may change if adding more Warps.
Card/Box/Artificial/Plastic loom – any artificial loom cut out from card stock, visiting cards, plastic containers, etc. In the discussion, I have used ‘card’ loom for convenience.
1 wrap/weave = movement or pass from right to left & back to right (starting point)  ; One can thus assume that 1 wrap = 2 passes in opposite directions.

Almost ready to post, and this table bug hit me ! This is a rough equivalence between normal tatting & Cluny tatting . See the similarities ?
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UPDATE : See new 2018 series starting with basics and through to 4-Coloured Cluny Tatting -pictorials and practice patterns. All listed here : https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/my-tut.html 


12  Tips  for  Easier  Cluny Tatting 
While the numbering below reflects the steps involved it is more for convenience in listing.

1.  Start  Tally  with  A Stitch  ? 
Many tuts mention/show that in order to bring all the threads together & 'lock' them in place, it is preferable to make 1 ds or 1fhs on inner (1st Warp) thread, before the actual weaving begins. They also point out that it is quite difficult to flip the stitch/half stitch.  Well, a reverse stitch / Unflipped stitch or half stitch works just as well.
I start with a reverse stitch on first Warp (extreme left) of loom, Instead of a ds. Ds is difficult to make – flipping a fairly taut Warp is not easy. RS/reverse stitch works just as well.
Confirm that the loom threads are free to move, before proceeding to weave further.
Some start with a half stitch (flipped or unflipped) - this works too, but one has to be Real careful when closing the loom due to it's propensity for getting knotted. Best avoided.
Fig  1.
This step is easily omitted in a card loom where one has more control & grip over all the threads.
Also, I did not like the tiny telltale knot at the base, as visible in the close up of the Frauberger Bookmark tail#1 (indicated by arrows in above pic).
UPDATE : See also HITCH THE LOOM.

2.  Anchor  the  Loom  Shuttle
This is an idea that was buried somewhere in my subconscious from Lilas’ diagrams ! Brilliant in it’s simplicity & practicality ! No more blue fingers !!! … And now, while researching some more for the post, I came across another Great tut by Jennifer Williams who has illustrated the exact technique !
Fig 2
For finger looms, after the Warps are made & tensioned, wind the thread till the SH2 or loom shuttle is anchored firmly behind the fingers as seen in pic.
Fig 3
The same technique worked Splendidly on the card loom, with SH2 anchored behind the side slit.

3.  Slip  Off  Loop  
Continuing from the previous objective to ease the strain & tension on one's fingers/hand, one can Easily remove/slip off the loop held around pinkie. (Compare Fig 2 & 4) 
Fig 4
It can be left hanging down (not seen in pic)! If one is not comfortable or confident at the very beginning, make one complete weave & Then slip it off. Recall the SCMR where one can leave the loop hanging down after making the 1st ds.

 4.  Shuttle  or  Needle ?
I have used both to do the weaving part. I am very comfortable with the shuttle on a card loom. To avoid the shuttle hook from catching the Warp threads, I hold the back end of shuttle in front & weave..
A long, thick darning needle (or tatting needle, of course) is ideal for weaving with auxiliary thread, as in the case of a hanging cluny.

5.  Weaving Order  
For right-handers, weaving starts from right to left & back to right, by going over or under the Warp threads.
Some start weaving from right to left by going over-under-over/o-u-o (& vice versa on the way back)
While others start with under-over-under/u-o-u (& vice versa on way back).
I was a bit confused when comparing some tuts, but the reason dawned on me when Judith shared her loom instructions.
Both are correct, depending on how the shuttle (weaving) thread is placed in comparison to the center/middle Warp.
Fig 5 
If the weaving SH1 is above/over the middle Warp or is in line with it, then first method is used as it immediately ‘locks’ the weaving thread on right side. Clever Cluny,  Karen Cabrera 
Fig 6
However, if the shuttle thread is under the middle Warp, then in a sense weaving has already begun & the 2nd method is applied. Portella Julie , Carollyn madtatter80 , Lilas, Judith Connors

6.  Check  for  Slide/mobility  
Just as in normal tatting, the core thread should be able to slide freely within the ds being made on it, similarly, the loom threads should be free to slide while the weaves are being made otherwise closing will become impossible. Keep checking, especially as a beginner, to see that the weaving is allowing the loom threads to slide easily. Remember, the 1st/inner Warp will be locked in, but all other threads should be able to slide when tugged correctly. Just a tiny tug at the centre & extreme right (outward) loom threads will ensure that no knots have formed.
Fig 7
Sometimes I hold both these together & gently pull . (see #8 for cautionary note)

7.  Tauten  the  Warps
A loom is simply a frame made of Warps, to do & hold the weaving together (just like the core thread in regular tatting). These vertical loom threads should remain taut throughout the process in order to get nicely formed tallies. In case one of the Warps slackens a bit, pull the thread segment/loop that follows/is next to it (towards the Loom/SH2). Any Warp thread can be carefully tensioned in this manner, even when the weaving is in progress, because the loom frame is formed in one contiguous sequence.  Notice the taut Warps in each of the images above – whether made on a finger loom or a card loom.

8. Tension Each Pass     
Weaving cluny leaves in this manner means having to tension Each pass for a smooth margin . One cannot make multiple passes/weaves & then pull to bring together. It will simply resist, distort, knot over in a crumpled mess.  If each pass & wrap is not tensioned, one can see a tiny bump along the margin (see pic below).
Fig 8
madtatter80 shares her interesting "dropping" motion for the 2nd pass, which quickens her pace. 

9.  Pack  Down  the  Weaves/wraps   
For a good-looking, evenly woven tally, it is essential to pack down the weaves as they are being made. It can be done with the help of a crochet hook, needle, shuttle point, etc. Or one can hold the Warp threads together in a pinch & push back the weaves (indicated in Fig.7). One thing to be careful about (I realized after some trials) is that if one pulls the rightmost/outer Warp thread too strongly, negligently, or too often, it can distort the curve of the tally, usually flattening the arc.
Fig 9
Also, notice the tiny colour blip at tip of some of the tallies where tensioning or packing down is wanting.
Opinion varies on whether a ‘tatting’ cluny should be packed down too tightly unlike a bobbin lace cluny. I guess ultimately it is the tatter’s personal definition of what is 'too tight'.

10.  In  the  Pinch  Always
Keep tally within a pinch while weaving, especially on a finger loom. (On an artificial loom, one has some leeway. In fact, I often use both hands to weave to & fro on the card loom).
This becomes Especially critical when closing the tally. If one relaxes one's pinch there is the heightened risk of getting the threads all in a knot – it is extremely difficult to unravel the knot. I speak from personal experience, where many a cluny got ‘locked in’.

11.  Weigh  Down  While  Closing    
When making tallies, many loops have to be closed in sequence, & each one has a tendency to twist . This can be very easily avoided , irrespective of the loom or tally .
As each Warp loop is removed from finger/card to start closing, place a steel crochet hook (or any slim but slightly weighty object) into the loop that is being closed . Do this as soon as you remove that loop from the loom. If one starts closing before weighing it down, chances are twisting will start & it becomes more difficult to get it all straight especially if one’s fingers are encased in the finger loom.
Fig 10
Fig 11
The steel hook provides enough weight/pressure to the closing loop to keep it from twisting & knotting itself. At the last moment, slip the ‘hook off’ & give the final tug to close the loop snugly.
Please note the pics are taken After a lot of closing has been accomplished, although the hook had been in position throughout the pulling/closing process.

 12.  Hiding  Tail  Ends
It is possible to hide thread/tail ends within a tally, but requires some dexterity. Place the tail parallel to the middle Warp & weave as normal. After a few weaves over the tail, tension the tail & continue the rest of the tally . When it is complete & closed, snip off the extra tail end. Since the weaves are packed down, the tail will remain secure within. (image below).
Or one can leave enough length in the tail end to sew it through the back of a tally. However, this, again, is not easy if the weaves are densely packed down.


In the next post(s) I will cover some of the many shapes that are possible, as well as include stepwise instructions on how to make hanging clunies and 4 & 5 veined tallies on a card loom.

UPDATE : All my Cluny Tatting Tutorials,  including COLOURED CLUNY TATTING, are listed here :  https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/my-tut.html

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Cluny Tatting Resources
A lot of the above ‘tweaks’ I figured as I went, enjoying the mental challenge. However, later research threw up excellent resources, tutorials & videos that have covered many of the above points. Here is my current list that covers the topics discussed above. I will add more to the list in later posts, & in Resources Page

Tutorials for beginners  
For starters, these are an Excellent & vital first step!
  • Clever Cluny (Beginning Tatting Video Series)  After watching the 1st half of this video, I will Never forget how to make a loom - on fingers or otherwise ! I was able to continue with my tally after watching just this half ! The 2nd half deals with a cardboard loom cutout.
  • Frivolité à la navette : le point d'esprit (Cluny leaf) : Very soon after this, Julie posted a great video, too ! Although text is in French, the demo is very clear & easy to follow.
  • text is in French but very clear self-explanatory video demo. Another good finger loom tatting resource for beginners. 
  • Jennifer Williams’ Cluny Tatting Technique diagrammed with instructions . Another Excellent resource to print & refer for beginners. I only came across it a couple of days back. 
  • Lilas Lace diagrams  - superb self-explanatory diagrams . 

More Cluny Tatting Resources (in no particular order) :
Various Types of Looms & tuts 
  Cluny Tatting with Needle 


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Monday, 27 July 2015

Cluny Tatting free pattern

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I had promised to post my tips, tricks, observations, experiments on Cluny Tatting . Instead of getting down to organizing the post(s), I have been enjoying the actual tatting trials (with a week long forced hiatus). Including tallies made on 4 & 5 warp looms, of which I will share the steps as I figured them out ...
I am working on the CT post, but it is looming larger than I originally planned both temporally & spatially !

Many a slip ….. :-(
So here’s the cart before the horse – a pattern before the concept & experimentation ;-P
Still a lot of practice required for consistency & beauty ....

Star Anise Studs*
*click for direct pattern download
Star Anise Studs - a free pattern
To bridge that gap, I am sharing a Cluny tatting pattern that can be used to decorate any pearl studs. It is like an insert that can be removed &/ore replaced to suit one’s outfit, mood & occasion. One can also quickly tat it up in different colours , & variations for greater variety & options. I think it is a pretty versatile & nifty piece to have around, especially for teenagers ;-)

It started as a simple flowery freeform pattern, where I had intended to add some more rings & green foliage. However, this seemed complete as is. So threads were tied & cut off.
A nifty way to spice up any old studs you may have lying around !


Cluny tatting technique used here is basic. Only the logistics & thread engineering convert it into a 3D form.
Since the petals are freeform, although a wrap count is provided, one can alter the shape, size, length, etc. to one's desire
It is a simple front-tatting only pattern where one starts with a central ring (make sure it is slightly smaller than the size of your studs) & goes on to make Cluny tatting petals & chains with decorative picots.

 UPDATE : Click here for another picture showing how to make these 3-D petals (III. 3D Tally with Bead)


I haven’t drawn a diagram . The notations seemed direct enough ; however, if anyone desires, please let me know & I will diagram the pattern.
I have, however, listed some ideas for variations on this prototype.

The name has been chosen because they resemble the spice. However, a Google search also revealed their similarity to flowers such as the Purple Loosestrife & Clematis
No stiffening was required - the petals hold their shape if the wraps are sufficiently dense/packed down.
This is how the tatting looks from behind, with the stud in place.

These can be easily converted into a separate earring ....
Add a pearl or bead in central ring directly. Add the findings in the last petal pair & you have a complete earring !

4 & 5 warp clunies can be used for the back petal as they will naturally become larger & broader. 

2 different shades/colours can be used for the front & back petals.


Download the free pattern here


I have a question for designers please : How can I get a shareable pdf link with customized name ? I tried Google Docs, but it converted the 2-page pattern into 4 pages !!! Google search was of no help either ; probably didn't ask the right question ?!


Motif #2/III for 25 Motif Challenge

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