Padding the
Double Stitch - any which way !
We’ve heard of padded tatting.
We’ve also heard of/used Double Double stitch & Balanced Double Stitch to
straighten out long chains. Some may even remember self-padded double stitch from
an earlier time. Are all these the same or different ?
Here is my attempt (delayed
by over a year, sorry) to make some sense of it all. I apologize for the length of this post ...
Some sentences/paras are
direct quotes from the original thread here. To distinguish these, I’ve used a different font in blue.
Anything in italics here is my personal comment. Unless otherwise indicated,
all quotes are by Judith Connors. Needle tatting quotes are by Judy Anderson.
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I. The Terms
s-p ds : self-padded
double stitch or self-padded ring (Rhoda Auld, 1974),
Proposed : Padded Double Stitch
(pds)
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II. Why call it pds ?
- Historical credit. Padded double stitch is simply
shortened from Rhoda’s first known use of ‘self-padding a ds’. “Her
experimentations are recorded on page 84 of her book, 'Tatting: the
contemporary art of knotting with a shuttle'”. This was
arrived at after some detailed discussion, investigation, & experimentation by participants
in the thread "Balanced Double Stitch (?)" started by Judith.
- BDS & DDS are only two of the possible motions (& applications) that can create padding in a stitch, making them a subset of the pds formation. Refer to ensuing points & Table in
Sec.IV
- Variable/unequal wraps on the half stitches or
between ds can create graduated, transitional, or unique effects on any
ring or chain. (I shared some possibilities here). But then the stitch will not remain ‘Balanced’, nor only a
‘Double’. Hence a generic term like padded ds seems more appropriate.
- And pds, with it’s proposed Notation System
captures this variability in written form, too. See examples of notation in
next segment.
- “Padded
double stitches may be applied, for effect, to known elements in tatting.”
Besides large rings
& long chains, they can be used in Split rings, Onion/concentric
rings, Josephines, etc. as showcased in pictures below.
- Standardization to reduce confusion – both with
multiple terms as well as notation. pds could be considered a generic term .
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III. Notation for padded double stitch
A double
stitch is made of 2 half stitches, called 1st HS/fhs & 2nd
HS/shs.
Hence in
order to show padding wraps, we include the half stitches in brackets, with
number of wraps indicated on each.
Thus,
1. ‘Balanced’/Equal Padding :
pds(1,1)
means 1 wrap on fhs & 1 wrap on shs.
So, if
you’ve been reading carefully, what would pds(1,1) represent ??
Yes!
pds(1,1) = BDS or DDS !!! And by same
logic, pds(0,0) = DS!
pds(2,2) =
2 wraps each on each half stitch.
2. Variable/Unequal Padding :
pds(1,3) =
1 wrap on fhs & 3 wraps on shs.
pds(4,2) =
4 wraps on fhs & 2 wraps on shs.
pds(0,2) =
no wrap on fhs & 2 wraps on shs.
pds(3,0) =
3 wraps on fhs & no wrap on shs.
pds(0,1) =
no wrap on fhs, 1 wrap on shs. (Half DDS
by Jane Eborall, 2014)
In these 3 examples , 0 or no wrap means that half stitch is tatted like a normal
half stitch, without any padding , as seen in above pic, where Chain is pds(0,5)
3. Number of Stitches :
Just as
one puts a numeral before ds to indicate how many stitches are to be tatted,
one puts a numeral before ‘pds’ to indicate the number of stitches required.
3pds(1,1)
= 3 padded ds with 1 wrap in each half stitch.
6pds(3,2)
= 6 stitches with 3 wraps in fhs & 2 wraps in shs
5pds(0,3)
= 5 pds with no wrap in fhs & 3 wraps in shs.
4. Special Elements :
Josephines
are worked with only one of the half stitches - either 1st or 2nd only. This
can be represented with a “–” for the missing half st.
Eg. JR 10pds(–,2) = a J Ring of 10 sts padded
with 2 wraps on the shs ;
JC 6pds(3,–) = J chain of 6 sts padded with 3 wraps on fhs.
================================
IV. Tabulated Comparison
of Stitches
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V. How to Wrap the half stitches ?
Refer to Table above. Click on
names below for direct link to resource.
This post is more about unifying the seemingly different movements applied to attain the same result. I would love for you to take up your shuttle(s) & some scrap thread & try out the 3 versions for yourself & have fun discovering the Wow moment ! And also find your own comfort movement :-) Humour me ?
And one can’t really go wrong . WHY ?
If you make a mistake in the wrap, it will do only 1 of 2 things :
either unwrap immediately so that you have no padding (it is easily visible)
OR
it will create a knotty situation (pun intended) when you try to snug it close. So in either case, one will realise one's mistake & can rectify it immediately.
My Submission
: The extra wrap(s) can be made anywhere !
It does not matter Where the extra ‘wrap’ is made – on the
core thread, or on the loop of the half stitch that is being formed, on the
‘leg’, or on the ‘auxiliary’ thread (chain/ball/shuttle 2 thread), or How it is
made – whether before flipping or after! Once the half stitch is Flipped,
&/or the threads tensioned, the result is the Same ! After flipping the
half stitch, whichever it is, the wraps will coil around the core thread in the
same way
seen in 3rd pic from top , or pics #4 & #8 below. And tensioning or snugging, the stitch will also produce the exact same padded
effect.
There are 3 ‘ways’ to wrap around a half stitch (before or after flipping)
- core thread (as Jane does)
- 'leg' loop of stitch (as Karen does)
- working 'cap'/upper thread of stitch loop (in pictorial below)
and it will make no difference to the end result ! The
3rd way is photographed below
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VI. 3rd Way of Padding the Double Stitch
A Quick Pictorial
… making the wrap on the top auxiliary thread part of
flipped half stitch – the ‘cap’ part
Since the formation of the
wrap is of no consequence, one is free to choose what one finds most
comfortable & easy. In fact, I have used all 3 wrapping movements
interchangeably in my Wreath Ornament
! I usually wrap around ‘cap’; but for reverse stitch or 2nd half
of SR, I find it easier to wrap around the taut core thread.
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VII. Are these the same ?
1. Padded Tatting and ‘Padding’ Tatting !
'padded tatting' is a concept which would embrace a number of
effects:
* using multiple core threads or a cord, as in pearl tatting (aka parallel and
Maltese tatting);
* the use of wool, in needle tatting;
* using threads of two different thicknesses, the thicker one as the core;
* Rhoda Auld's and our recent padded (wrapped) double stitch --> padded
chain and padded ring. [This includes the BDS & DDS].
There are probably others, depending on the
experimentation of various tatters.
Thus pds is a ‘subset’ of
padded tatting where we are ‘padding’ the stitch, without use of any auxiliary
thread. Can be done with both a regular double stitch (flipped) or the unflipped
reverse stitch formations, and any element using them. So, while we keep saying
padded DS, it could well be padded RS
2. Roll Tatting & Padded DS
The movement is similar, one
is making wraps ! But in Roll tatting, one wraps around the Core thread Only,
with no stitches.
In Padded DS, one is wrapping
within the stitch.
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VIII. Can it be done in Needle Tatting ?
YES, and it is so much easier !
This technique is not
limited to shuttle tatting. For needle-tatters, Judy points out how easy it is : “just circle that finger twice before putting on the
needle.” So, the wraps are made on the finger !
Judy goes
on to say “This needle tatter has used both padding and variable tension.. and
both at the same time ... to make a reasonable script J for a monogram. Tight
curves, rounder ones and straight sections…”
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CHARACTERISTICS :
It provides thickness,
texture, interest, stiffness, bulk, highlight.
It is very easy to do & very
practical for long lengths of chains, large rings, and many decorative
elements.
It makes the stitch wider/broader, too.
“It works
well for a bracelet because the chain is not curved as a normal chain would be.”
(Jane McLellan)
It is perfect for 3D &/or freeform tatting to add stiffness & effect. I have used the pds in a lot of my freeform 3D patterns, listed at end.
RELEVANT FACTORS :
Size of thread is inversely
related. Fewer wraps possible with thicker thread, because it is unwieldy to
tension.
But quantity of thread used
is directly proportional to the number of wraps.
Soft silky threads make
better wraps.
Tension plays a role in the
final visual effect of each stitch as well as the overall appearance.
For noticeable visible
difference in effect when making unequal/variable wraps in half stitches of
same DS – the difference in wraps should be more than One.
LIMITATIONS :
As the number of wraps
increase, the thread may start to twist. Suspend shuttle to normalize.
For same reason, padding a
Josephine ring or chain, may become slightly more difficult.
TIP (Judith Connors)
“… the adage 'Less is more' is advised, as
over-padding could alter the integrity of the known elements.
Some
tatters never use this type of double stitch, preferring to tension the double
stitches less so that the chains do not curve much at all. [When I tension less
in some sections of inverted tatting, I can produce chains which are straight.]”
I invite your inputs, opinion, feedback, & suggestions .
Thanks to All
Designers & Participants
who have contributed so much to tatting & it's
evolution
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2 of my projects & 2 tutorials had been nominated, of
which this one won.
I think it is very much in keeping with my 2 passions - TATeaching
:-)))
A BIG Thanks to all you wonderful voters for such a lovely gift :-)
and a very special Thanks to Ninetta for sharing your creative originality,
to
Fiona for altering my perspective,
&
Kersti for her wonderful forum ...
((( HUGS )))
CONGRATULATIONS to all nominees & winners – your work is always an
inspiration
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okay, okay, I'm going ..... ;-)
