Tatting Away VIII

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Tablecloth (Zigzag) Lace

I started this lace a year back but stopped after reaching a length of 1 meter, since I did not know where it would be used. Now, it has been worked to a length of over 2 meters & tacked on to a table cloth for my MIL’s sewing table.

I do not know the original source of the pattern; it is from my 80’s collection (from some Indian publication). However, since starting, I have come across many examples of similar laces on pinterest, with some stitch count variations. It had 2 rows, but I liked the peaks, so only did this one row & like to call it my “zigzag lace”.

It has been tatted in traditional style using ball & shuttle. Loved the feel of this cotton thread . Very easy to tat.

The cotton table cloth measures 33’ x 27’ after sewing (with 2 inches for seam allowance on all 4 sides).

THREAD

South Maid Mercerised Cotton ( Coats n Clark , USA) Size 10 . Color : 22 GARLAND

MSTS

7 peaks = 12½ in / 31½  cm.

Width = 2¼' in / 5½  cm.

Total length (50 peaks on either side) : 90 in  / 225 cm  i.e., 2 ¼ m

                                  

NOTES

• While the tatting was fun throughout, the sewing is always a cumbersome procedure! Took me  4-5 days to sew it on properly. 
• I do not sew down the picots, only through the ds, at regular intervals, using a kind of back stitch. Photograph, showing how the sewing/tacking looks, is added at bottom. 
• If I had started the lace now, I might have done it differently, using 2 shuttles, instead of ball & shuttle. However, the upside of the latter was that I had to load just the one shuttle and hide just that one thread end . The lace remained attached to the 2^nd ball throughout.
• Without an end-use in sight, I had tatted it straight. Hence, for the corners, I simply arranged the peaks to get good visual effect & symmetry & sewed on. No pattern tweaks for corners ! (images below)

 

Tacking/sewing lace, as seen from wrong side.

  

Update : I came across a lovely application using a variation of this basic pattern, by "The Shuttlesmith", here: Denim Shirt Embellishment


Motif #20 for 25 Motif Challenge

Cornering An Edging : Tatting

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Tatting Tutorial

 Have a lovely straight-edging pattern?

Want to use it for a square/rectangular project?

But stuck on how to tackle the angular corner ?

Here are some very simple & easy techniques to continue without a hitch ... 

(for beginner &/or intermediate level )

One finds plenty of lovely tatting patterns for an edging, but rarely for a corner to go with the pattern, especially when one is working a square or rectangle. 

I needed 3 edgings for square cushion/pillow cases. None of the 3 patterns I chose had any corner. But, for the very first time, I made an effort to try my own hand at tackling the right angle by tweaking the patterns. Here's how they look .....

Three Edgings "Cornered" !

THREE  CORNERING  OPTIONS

I. Simple Alignment

Many patterns lend themselves easily to  

a right-angled corner. All one needs to do is carefully align the edging along the periphery & corner, such that there are neither any ruffles nor stretching.   
(for complete Patterns : Waves Edging  & Crowns Edging)

I-A. Simple Corner Alignment of Waves edging 

I-B. Simple Corner Alignment of Crowns edging

TIP : Tat a length just slightly shorter than that required for the entire periphery. Do not tie/break off yarn. Tack on the edging. When you come to the end, tat the remaining short distance, Then tie off. Keeps the 2 ends joined neatly; no overlap or reworking!

Sometimes, an edging is not easily 'cornered'. It is either too loose or too tight around the right angle. In the former, one may need to eliminate or decrease some element (either a chain or ring); in the latter, one needs to add or increase a chain or ring.

But how does one decide what is required ?!

Following is the technique I used, tweaking the pattern to fit : in one instance, a chain was eliminated; in second, a ring was added.

II. Eliminating An Element

(for complete pattern : Crowns Edging Pattern ) Tat one length of edging - the approximate length of the pillow side.   

Then roughly position the 2 ends (the beginning & 'last' or  working ends) at 90 degree angle to form a corner. (image II-A) 

  

This will give you an immediate visual feedback regarding the gap/space to be covered, & thus help you decide whether you need any additional rings / chains / repeats or not.

I-A. Positioning 2 ends of edging to decide on cornering

     II-B. Simple elimination of chain creates corner

TIP : One can place the ends on grid or graph paper for a more elaborate & accurate designing of corner elements. 

I decided, in this case, that a simple elimination of the chain will suffice. Keeping all the rest of the pattern same, only the connecting chain was done away with. (image II-B) 

TIP : One could've added an extra connecting picot to each adjoining ring, too, for greater stability. Or a very short chain of 2 ds only.

III. Adding An Element

     

III. Adding an Element to Create Corner 

A similar 'positioning' technique 
was employed for the Oyster edging as well. 

A single extra Ring was added at corner & rest of pattern continued unchanged. 

"CORNERED !!!"

Update : Last night I came across a superb technique on how to turn the edging corner using a mirror. This is especially handy for the more elaborate & adventurous edgings. Always learn from the pros !!!

I value comments with constructive feedback :-)