go round once

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 I don't like such long periods of silence in my blog! So here's a quick peek into how I tat 

Like many tatters, I have an individual way of tatting and of all the videos I've watched so far, none comes close. Some day I might make a video to show my tatting hold and movements, but here's one uploaded by Beth Vawter - https://youtu.be/Q23FakixLp0.  I, too, follow my knitting style for both crochet and tatting! 

In answer to a query, I had shared these 2 pics in Craftree many years back showing how I wrap the ball/knotting thread only once around my pinky when tatting a chain! 

On rare occasions when I cannot get the required tension, I wrap it twice (below). The spacing out is deliberate to illustrate the wrap clearly.

But watch the initial portion of Beth's video to get the correct picture.

I find this very comfortable and those who have arthritis might find it similarly comfortable. My pinky has never to date been starved of blood or felt tired 😁 and I save time by that single wrap.

For crochet I was taught to wrap thread multiple times around my index finger and it used to put me off because the blood supply would be hampered. Until I used my knitting wrap around pinky and now I don't mind crocheting!

Do you wrap thread multiple times around the pinky or just once, when tatting?

Jeanie's tips

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When I shared my tips on how to keep tatted motifs uniform, I received a lovely email from tatter & teacher Jeanie enumerating her own list. Now she’s been working on an altar cloth that already has over 400 motifs tatted over a span of years. She’s guessing somewhere between 600-800 hours spent on it, with another 200 hours’ work still left. She’s had 2 mishaps with dye-lots and one with staining due to some finger nail polish. This experience is reflected in the tips.

So, let the master speak! A few of the points have already been covered in my list, but I’d like you to read it in her own words …..

How To Tat Uniform Motifs and Medallions (contd.)

especially for long-term projects

Jeanie Schekel

"In my experience, most patterns require the motifs to be joined as the last round is tatted so the blocking is done after the motif is added. I usually only block nightly. I have seen a few patterns where two sizes of motifs are used and one size is joined by a smaller motif. This type of pattern would allow one to block some of the motifs before joining. Because my project was so large, I used a grid as a guide and marked on the grid the progression and completed motifs.

(She sent me this pic in Dec, 2018)

1.      I would suggest that one make several motifs and compare them before you begin the project.

2.      Measure the thread for one motif and calculate the amount of thread needed and make sure you allow for a mistake or two, so you will have enough of one dye-lot. 

3.      Write down every detail from starting with continuous thread, and any adjustments you make in the pattern, just in case of an emergency that can interrupt your tatting time. Time can affect your memory.

4.      Note where to add magic loops.

5.      Tat most of the last round calculating where to begin joining, and repeat the exact process as often as possible - saves time, calculations and mistakes. 

6.      Don't let a lot of time lapse between motifs. A month is too long for me.

7.      Don't tat other projects with another size thread while tatting this project; it can affect your tension.

8.      When tatting with white thread, you can avoid any discoloration from body oil.  Tape part of waterproof bandages, or liquid bandage painted on the area where the pinching finger and thumb touch the thread, as well as the palm side of the finger where the thread wraps. The sweaty side is the inside of the fingers that touch the thread."

♡♡♡

As you may have deduced from both lists, consistency is the key. Consistency even in the most minute of details, especially if it is a long-term project. 

As always, your input and feedback is valued, so do say something :-)

Many many thanks, Jeanie

uniformly tatted motifs

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A week back I was tagged on Facebook for suggestions on how to make uniform medallions. I love to receive such questions 'coz it gets me thinking and helps me understand better through a fresh new look. I listed 8 common factors at the time, 2 of which she had already suggested (#6 & #7). The following list has been refined and updated and will hopefully be of use to relative beginners.

How To Tat Uniform Motifs and Medallions 

This is a generalised list of 10 factors. There may be pattern-specific factors that may affect uniformity which are not covered here. For instance the swirl join in the model below. 

1. Thread

Mercerised crochet cotton which is tightly wound will keep stitches even, unlike perle/pearl cotton. Experienced tatters can work equally well with any thread.

2. Personal experience

One’s tatting tension improves and becomes more consistent the more one tats.

3. Familiarity with pattern

Sometimes the first working of a new pattern may not be representative since we are intent in figuring out the pattern. Once familiarity sets in, one can focus solely on the work. Hence it may be advisable to disregard the 1^st attempt and choose the 2^nd motif as a base or reference for future.

4. Template

Scan the chosen motif or glue it over a grid paper to use as template for reference. All future motifs can be placed over it while working to confirm uniform progress.

5. Techniques

Again, consistency and continuity of techniques employed in the pattern.
eg, whether working frontside/backside or traditional; or whether working chains with regular ds or with reverse (unflipped) stitch; and so on. 

In case of Josephine rings and chains, choose whether to work them with first or second half stitch and carry on with the same method. 

Do not change midways.

6. Elements

Consistency in elements is important, especially when working long chains and large rings. Ensure that the stitches are snugged with the same even tension throughout the entire piece.

7. Picot measurement

While uniform picots are visually appealing, the joining picots need to be of the same size to avoid disfigurement. A picot gauge may be a handy tool to use. Detailed article on the choices we have - Measuring the Picot  

8. Joins

Some count the join as a half stitch while others do not. Some prefer a down join to an up join. Whichever way you choose, continue with it throughout.

9. Beads

If using seed beads in the motif, select evenly sized beads.

10. Blocking

Pull motif into shape and use a template to block each medallion accurately. Blocking really helps in 'hiding' minor flaws or discrepancies, so that the final motif becomes a replica of the others. 

Can you add to this list? I love hearing from you!

Related posts

Blocking with a rolling pin

The picot stands tall  
Joins in Shuttle Tatting

picot join to the right part 3

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(concluding part)
Common Threads - SET VII : the 'right' picot join 

Picot Join to the Right – Part 3
Terminology & Range

fig 1 - projects with the 'right' picot join

fig 2 - rosette

As beginners some of our first shuttle-only flowers and butterflies have free rings – a cluster of closely tatted outward facing rings. The next stage is when the adjacent petals are linked through picots and we learn the picot join. Easy - the joining picot is to the left of current work. And then comes the last petal/ring (7^th ring in fig2) and we have to join it to the first ring. Huh! How to link it to the first petal?! How to reach through that picot without ending up with a twist or with a locked/snagged core thread?

There are many ways, and just as many terms, 
but the core principle/factor remains the same –

the linking picot is to the right of the element being worked.

fig 3 - more projects with picot join to the right

A great deal of tatted lace returns to the starting point before tying and cutting ends or climbing out to the next level. It could be a motif, medallion, doily, or even edgings on a fabric. Sometimes this linking back is through a picot on the first element(s).  Google any of the bold terms for an array of tutorials (add ‘tatting’ to the term). Some resources are listed here.

Last to First Join refers to this aspect – the last element linked back to the first element through a picot. It can be between 2 rings, 2 chains or a ring and chain.

Most frequently we apply this linkage to close a medallion in a circle.

Joining in a circle/in the round is another term for this final linkage arising from traditional medallions before the invention of the tatted chain. Medallions made of a cluster of linked outward facing rings were commonly called a rosette or flower (fig2). Hence Mary Konior also called it the Rosette Join.

As frequently mentioned, it is not just difficult to reach that joining picot, but there is a tendency for it to twist after linkage has been made. The following terms are based on the movement required to make that linkage.

Twisted picot join – where the picot is pre-twisted before pulling a loop through it for linkage, thus pre-empting or neutralizing the twist when completed.

Folded Join – where the work is folded in such a way as to reach that ‘pesky’ picot.

Avoiding the Folded Join – a simple reorientation or rotation of work results in avoiding any folding or twisting by bringing the linking picot to the left of work.

Riego Join is yet another term (coined by Teri Dusenbury) referring to the same join found in Mlle Riego’s books dating back to the 2^nd half of 19^th century. A long tail is cut, slipped through the picots, and the last ring is finger-tatted. Thus the linkage is made Before the ring is tatted.

The above list seems to suggest a fairly small range where this join to the right comes into play.

Not true! The following tatted models show us numerous circumstances where we have used the ‘right’ picot join. 
And to make it playful, try identifying that join to the right in each medallion or motif (click on image for larger view or on blue link for respective post). 

          Does it have to be a circle?

 

Let us not take the ‘circle/round’ term too literally. It largely refers to closing/linking back to the start, not the shape. Shape is determined by the elements.(eg. the triangle in fig1. The 5-ringed flowers in this bouquet give a definite pentagonal outline. The 4 rings in the center of the cross clearly form a square or diamond, acting as a scaffolding. (figs 4 & 5)

          Only single or a cluster of rings?
Rosettes have very closely placed single rings. However, a larger, more open medallion, or an edging, when joined back on itself, may need the same join. 

 

And not just single rings, but a cluster of 2 or more rings can  be joined back. eg. the pair of rings in Butterfly Squares/Edging (fig6) or the last ring in a clover or trefoil (fig7)

          Does the join come into play only with outward facing rings?

Not at all, though most resources tend to focus on rosettes. The following examples have inward facing rings, but need to join the last ring to the first through the picot that is on the right of current work (fig8). 

 

In the Clover Wreath Poinsettia there are inward facing clovers. Last 2 rings need to be joined to the first 2 rings. But the last green ring on the final chain is also linked in same manner! (fig9)

Not just single, but multiple rings can need the join! And not just one but more linking picots within the same element may be involved.

 

The vintage edging with bare thread space has both inward and outward facing rings and since it is closed, the starting rings were on the right of the final rings (fig10). In the Quatrefoil medallions the number of inner rings reflect the overall shape of the polygon and the rings are bridged by split rings (ie. we move from one inner ring to the next via a split ring instead of bare thread or chain). Each of these needs the join for both the inward & outward facing rings (fig11).

          Does the join occur only between rings? 

  

In this medallion, the linkage takes place between the inner yellow rings as well as the first and last blue chains (fig12).

 

Again, there may be multiple linkages. Can you identify the ring-to-ring and the ring-to-chain links in the Classic square (fig13) ; Or the final chain-to-chain link in the snowflake? (fig14)

          Layered and 3D formations

Why stop at only 2D tatting? Tatting around a button, cabochon, gem, shell, doodad, may all end up with a last picot join to the right. 

 

Whether around a button, or around a gem for a ring, the final inward facing ring clearly needs to be joined back. The popular Ice Drops require the join both on the front and back. And even the final curled ring is linked back around the shell. (fig15). In the ANKAR-style earring not just the large blue rings, but the curled rings also need the picot join to their right (fig16).

          Is it always the final/last join? 

Again, No.

In both the part 1 & part 2 pictorials, as in majority of tutorials, the thread(s) end up at the front/above the work. It does not matter as usually the work is ending and after the threads  are snipped off, the tails can be repositioned as desired.

 

But there are patterns where one may need to continue further and hence both threads need to be on the same side - either at back of work or in front - as in the Curly Cross pendant (fig5) or this 3D flower (fig17). 

In the one-pass snowflake, ‘Celeste’ (fig18), each arm has rings that need to be linked to their right, and work continues! So ‘last to first’ is no longer applicable! 

I hope these projects provide a glimpse into the diverse usage of the join to the right, and why a generic term like ‘picot join to the right’ is more applicable than the smaller windows provided by other terms. Nevertheless, whatever term (or movement) is used, one should now be able to identify with ease, where and when the ‘right’ picot join is required. No more scratching one's head even if the pattern instructions do not specify it !!!

Related Posts

Part 1

Part 2

Part 4

Joins in Shuttle Tatting

Common Threads

picot join to the right part 2

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Continuing on from the previous post, not just rings, but chains too can be joined to the right in the exact same way – rotate the work on your hand so that the joining picot lies to the left of work, make a normal picot join and continue.

So instead of repeating it all over again, I will switch to images showing how to join with a down loop instead of up loop. This is for directional tatting (frontside/backside), and creates a complete ds visually.

A simple enclosed space medallion was created to illustrate. Mustard colour thread in shuttle is joined to blue ball thread.

Pattern :

Ring  : 6 ± 3 – 3 – 6. reverse work

Chain: 3 (± 2)x9, - 3. rw.

Join ring to previous ring, and chain to previous chain.

         The last ring and chain will be joined on both sides. 

Picot Join to the Right - Part 2

(joining last chain to first using the down loop)

In a rosette such as the ones in Blossoms motif, rings face outward and hence a picot join to the right is needed. However, even when rings face inwards as in this medallion, the same join is required when linking back! So, in this medallion, we are using the join twice – once for rings (follow as in Part1) and then for chains.

1. The last chain is worked to the point where it needs to be linked to the first chain. 

This chain, with it’s joining picot is on the right side.

2. Start rotating the work in counterclockwise direction …

3. till we have the ball thread positioned under the picot 

4. and pull up a loop through that picot, passing shuttle through it as in any normal picot join. This can be followed by a 2^nd half stitch or a complete ds.

For frontside/backside tatting, with a down loop or down join, I am restarting from image #2 - 

5. After rotating, position the ball thread above the joining picot 

 6. and pull a loop down through it, passing the shuttle through this down loop.

 7. and start closing the loop

 8. The loop is now tensioned and snug – the 2 chains are successfully linked! 

Notice both threads are above the work.

NOTE : If we want both threads to be under/at back of the work, then before starting the linkage, place both ball and shuttle under, leaving only a short segment of the ball thread over the picot, through which we can pull a loop down.   

9. Work the 2^nd half stitch (along with the join, it counts as 1ds) and 2 more ds. 

This completes the last chain.

Quite a while back another relative beginner asked me where and how I tied off the 2 tails. This is how I do it (not all steps are pictured here) -

10. Needle the core thread and pierce through the base of the previous ring. (Imagine where the core thread would’ve been if it wasn’t the end).

11. The ball thread is passed through the tip/cap of the stitch on the adjacent chain. 

(again imagine or see how the threads lie in the previous segments when they are continuous).

12. I make a single overhand tie at the back, and …

13. whip stitch the core thread through the ring and the ball thread through the chain.

Leave off following the middle path mantra.

Tug and then snip off excess tail ends.

So, joining to a picot on the right of current work can be as easy as that – all a matter of perspective, and nothing to fear. And we have seen it in use in enclosed space medallions where rings faced outwards (previous rosette), and also for inward-facing rings and chains (the above medallion).

I’d like to talk a wee bit more about this join – a common threads kind of overview through various project pics.

to be continued (final part)

Related Posts

Part 1

Part 3

Joins in Shuttle Tatting

Part 4

picot join to the right part1

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Several weeks back an expert told me that the last to first join is not a beginner technique. I can see why, since there is a tendency for the joining picot to twist when linking to it. We are familiar with different names for this technique - twisted picot join, folded join, avoiding folded join, joining in a circle, rosette join, etc. (scroll down to I.1.b here) and excellent tutorials in various formats show us multiple ways of going about it.

But whichever method one employs it boils down to just 2 facts :

• the joining picot is on the right side of the current ring or chain being worked; and
• the join is ultimately a picot join.

Hence we can employ a generic term, Picot Join to the Right, irrespective of which particular movements a tatter uses to achieve it.

I understand and have tried the folded & twisted picot joins, but continue to avoid them. I get a sense of security & comfort in working it as a normal picot join. 
All I have to do is move the last picot to the left of the current tatting! 
And I consider this easy enough for any beginner to grasp and accomplish. Scroll down if this interests you …

The flowers (rosettes) in Blossoms motifs all require this join. Hence Part 1 shows how to do that last join, continue to completion, and also how I finish off the ends.

Picot Join to the Right - Part 1

( joining last ring to first in a rosette )
Only one step – rotate work to bring joining picot from right to left side!

One-shuttle pattern.

Each ring is (7–5–5–7), joined to previous ring. 7 rings total. 

Ring7 is linked to both Ring6 & Ring1, closing the medallion or circle.

 1. This is the common Picot Join where the joining picot is on the left side of the working element  (Ring7). We pull up a loop of ‘ball’ thread, pass shuttle through it, tension and snug, and continue with the second half stitch or a new double stitch.

Note: 

In fs/bs tatting, we pull a loop down on the frontside and then make the second half stitch.

 2. Here we have reached the point where the last ring (wip) needs to be linked to the first ring.

3. Rotate work on your hand. We do NOT have to take it off our fingers, simply rotate counterclockwise.

Notice how the picot is now on our left! Looks familiar, doesn't it?!

 4. Pull up a loop of ‘ball’ thread, just as in a picot join (as seen in #1).

5. Adjust the tension. Make sure that the core thread slides freely.

Notice how the threads are all on the front of (or above) the motif.

Note : 

If we need the threads to be at the back of the work, use this simple trick by Linda Davies. 

 6. Continue tatting to finish the last segment of this ring.

7. Close the ring. Picot Join to the Right has successfully completed the rosette!

Permit me to continue, to show how I end the motif. Notice there is a tiny loop (like a vsp) at the base of the first ring. I had tatted over the starting tail, leaving a small loop, but did not pull it tight. I left this tiny space for a reason...(I showed it here in more detail along with a pdf). 

UPDATE: This loop is used for the final join and Dale Pomeroy coined the term Shepherd's Crook Join for it.

8. Snip off the shuttle and thread the new tail.

 9. Insert needle through that space or loop.

10. Tug strongly at the old tail to close that gap. This also traps the new tail within.

(I sometimes use my teeth for a strong grip & pull) 

11. Bring the needle back through the space between the 2 rings 

and whip stitch through the back arcs of the last ring.

12. After whip stitching for a few stitches, tug tight and snip both tails close.

As with all techniques, what I have shown here is a viable alternative, but optional.  

We all have our favourites, and this works well for me.

I used a down loop, hence the joins all look like a complete double stitch.

This pictorial was already photographed when I received a ‘distress’ email last week, asking for help on how to proceed with the last chain after it has been joined to the first chain. I will share it in the next post since this is already pretty long.

.... Part 2 in next post 

Related Posts

Part 2

Part 3

Joins in Shuttle Tatting

Part 4