Showing posts with label TWoT notes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label TWoT notes. Show all posts

Thursday, 13 November 2025

a winter butterfly

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 Trying to catch the last golden rays of the wintery sun! 


Ninetta Caruso has shared a lovely new butterfly pattern with us! She was updating the E13 edging  pattern which Silvia Passaquieti, one of our original volunteers, had reworked back in Nov 2020. This update is part of the ongoing exercise to systematise all presentations in the Endrucks 1920 Project.
And that's when Ninetta noticed that ....

... a motif from the E13 edging looked like a butterfly's wing in profile! 
I was privy to all the trials, thoughts, doubts, and discussions - the various stages leading to this final pattern. Let's hope she shares her design process, too.
 
E13 Disclosed Butterfly by Ninetta Caruso pattern PDF link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yxSqjL2ZpKPnwcqhG9YkbhBG_wjfLQmT/view

TWoT Notes: Habitually, I worked it directionally, starting the first wing (on the left in above pic) with the first ring frontside. For the right wing, I started the first ring backside to get a mirror image.

The pattern itself is a scroll - alternating rings and chains - throughout.  In fact each wing is worked with a ball and shuttle. Yet, it is not a pattern one can easily commit to memory. The rings and chains are cleverly arranged and attached and require mindful tatting.
 
An upended view with the butterfly playing dead ;-P 
Each wing is worked separately. Then the split ring braid attaches to both simultaneously. I chose to do the body in a different colour and twisted the head ring from vertical to horizontal .
I really liked Ninetta's version of the antennae where she lightly twisted the picots [actually she cheated by twisting them afterwards, LOL] so unlike all my earlier tightly twisted picots, these are less tight.

Now there is cupping in the wings which I kind of like, except that mine face downwards as if the butterfly is just getting ready to lift off; contrary to Ninetta's model where the wings are uplifting!
I really must make my chains less taut or add one or two extra half-stitches to avoid cupping. I seem to have this problem in several patterns.

The proof of how much I liked the pattern is that I just had to squeeze in time and energy to tat it! It took two sittings only, but took several days to finally take pics and blog. Incidentally, this is my first E13 pattern/derivative. Can't thank my dear PIC, Nin, enough, for this pattern and all she does for the Project!

E15 from Eleonore Endrucks' 'Die Schiffchen-Spitzen', 1920, reworked by Silvia Passaquieti Nov2020  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qZ0BsgjQ81es0J7G1FI3mng3xwjjeHOT/view

For more butterfly patterns and inspiration check out our Butterflies from Endrucks Directory - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1dtWGgZZEGBBwLDpJgRChAEo91l4uuXq-fxRNzKDc6r8/view 

Please do not forget touse the tag #Endrucks1920Project in your social media post, and please state the name of the designer and the pattern, too. 

Sunday, 7 August 2022

mirroring

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 Only 8 more days to go and my heart is beating fast ....

My messy heart after 6 days 💗

This is how I intend to place the leaves. In the background is the sketch for reference. The center is an outline of the coin. And there's one extra leaf but who knows it might come in handy once I start gluing.

Some of the initial leaves are shorter 'coz I added 2 extra leaflets along the way.
I have a shuttle filled with scrap lengths. Once glued, the empty spaces will be filled with the required number of leaflets.
This is the Laurel Leaf pattern (on page 7 of this pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5MqI5ByadI4cjRaV3h3Qjgyajg/view?resourcekey=0-OQ9HULLWS0raSHIL0dR4Tg) In case it does not open, send the automated request.

TWoT Notes: Notice how the 4 leaves on left side face left while the 5 on the right side are bent towards the right? I followed the exercise set out in the pdf. Instead of starting the first ring frontside, simply start it backside (RODS or reverse order of double stitch ie., 2nd half st, then 1st half st.) and continue with the pattern working fs/bs tatting throughout. The leaf will curve in opposite direction.
No need to work out the mirror-image in the pattern!!!

Tonight I will try out the white pattern before working it for real. I've diagrammed it, but need to confirm stitch count, size, etc. 

Saturday, 8 January 2022

here we go again

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 I shouldn't, but I am! Yeah, I should've been working on my numerous commitments, but these hearts were calling to me and I am taking life easy and don't want to regret my actions/inactions. Being tiny, they kind of fit into my Life Interrupted, so there! 

1 & 2 were what I shared yesterday - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2022/01/hearty-round-robin.html and they needed improvement. Enter trials 3 & 4 respectively.

I tried 2 things together. One was to make asymmetrical split rings (thanks, AlenAlea Rako), and the other was adding another row of chains below. I also added more joining picots for stability.

Trial #4 is the picoted version of trial #2 - gentle gradation - and I like it. 
TIP: This version can be made with shuttle and ball by using any of the Lock Join Plus options to change direction. ( https://drive.google.com/file/d/17zsM3JaLO7r0ajg8VOnv5IcJ-kLNqEiU/view )

Forgot to include this yesterday. The encircled portion is the heart I am trying to make. Notice how it is much broader here than in my free-standing ones? I tried to mimic the count for the most part in my first trials. But it is the pull from the rest of the round(s) that creates this stretched shape. Perle cotton versus mercerised cotton could also be playing a small part.

Here are the old and new versions together. Is there any improvement? I'm not so sure. And because I added a stabilizing picot for the long chains, the arch is higher than wider, changing the overall outline.
Picots are missing because I wasn't sure of the new count, but I think addition of decorative picots would certainly lift it up. 
Here the picots definitely perk things up! I even considered a Josephine Ring on the inner chain but Mickey Mouse came to mind.
Future idea - Make those 3 inner picots long and joined later to the curved chains, thus filling the negative space.
3 hearts in a Shamrock arrangement, just like Diana Howe had done with the Happy Heart from Endrucks' pattern #1 - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/03/lucky-hands.html

TWoT Notes: Interestingly, of the 4 hearts, 3 follow a different sequence/path! It helps to tat in multiples - each time you get a clearer picture, you focus on subsequent or peripheral aspects, .... and small pieces are just right to tat multiple times, LOL.  

So, dear tatters, what's your opinion and feedback? Which patterns should I share?

Monday, 29 November 2021

the foster child

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Reworked patterns from Frau Eleonore Endrucks-Leichtenstern’s ‘Die Schiffchen-Spitzen’, 1920, for Endrucks 1920 Project.

Don’t these look like folk dancers with frilly skirts and knocking elbows! Now add a head to each to complete the ladies…. A single motif, with a bit of addition, could become an angel or Crinoline lady.

Endrucks' pattern #7 pdf (click to download): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UDNg-1W6LJ3pyrn_Umz5f33BF01_92-E/view

This little pattern has interested many tatters and each ‘foster family’ loved and groomed it to their best ability. But each home wanted something even better for the foster child that they could not provide, hence the child travelled, leaving behind a virtual trail of trials and learning, until the final adoption.

adopting, not foisting, the foster child...
House #1 (Ayşe Özgür): An enthusiastic & immediate start but life halted for 10-11 months.
        Starts with chain and work moves form right to left. Good use of 3 colours.
House #2 (Douglas Hill): Enthusiastic choice in the 2nd volunteer list, and mutual collaboration, # 2 conceded that #3 (adaptation & tatting) was better.
        Starts with chain, with inward picots for bilateral symmetry, and work moves from right to left.
House #3 (Julie Santos Villegas): An immediate & willing response but later needed help which #4 provided, but health forced another shift.
        Starts with a ring and work moves from left to right..
House #4 (muskaan): Formally adopted and continued to maturity.
        Starts with a ring and work moves from left to right. With options shared.


TWoT (This Way or Tat?) and Diagram Notes :
original model
Considering Frau Endrucks did not like decorative picots, all her edgings have a line of free picots along the top side (as seen in her tatted model pics) ostensibly to sew down the lace along that side while the other dangled.
original diagram
However her diagrams are ‘upside-down’ and this line of picots lies along the bottom.

But there is a 3rd aspect. Her diagrams are read from left to right. Most of the patterns start with a chain, and when we actually tat a chain normally (not direct tatting) and continue, the working progresses from right to left (as in Houses 1 & 2).
I find myself doing mental & physical callisthenics in order to sync her diagram with the work in my hand. I like to know where/how my very first element faces, and where the threads emerge to continue – this orients me correctly till the very end. This is especially true for her patterns which involve frequent changes in direction.

Hence there are 2 solutions I have employed –
original diagram flipped
1. Try to start the pattern with a ring. It has obvious advantages, including CTM and hiding tails. It is how I presented this pattern, shifting the start from a chain to a side ring. (Julie had first started her adaptation sampler with the central ring and diagrammed it accordingly, moving from right to left). Now the work progresses from left to right as in the diagram. 
2. Draw a working diagram where we follow the pattern exactly as Endrucks has written starting with a chain, but the diagram shows this first element on the right instead of left. And the diagram then moves leftward (as in the flipped diagram above). No need for any brain callisthenics – simply lay the work against the diagram and you are facing the ‘right’ way.

One more common feature of several patterns is that the central ring at the base (from which chains radiate) is tatted at the end of the motif. The only reason I can think of is to make it easy for a designer to estimate how large the ring should be and avoid multiple prototypes. Anyways, several of our pdfs show this ring as per the original. I have always shifted it towards the start of the motif joining chains to it, rather than joining the ring to chains.

TIP:  Potential Pitfall : Joining to the wrong picot!
 
This is one area where I frequently made a mistake and had to retrace my steps! This final one I noticed too late but fixed it by carefully snipping the joined picot (and glued the cut ends), and sewed the correct picot in place. 
This is the 1st motif I tatted in early October to understand and explain the pattern to House#3. By November, I had to tat one more (no pic) to refresh my short memory and then went on to the sampler below ...
Each motif, especially with decorative picots, has the shape of a petal. 
Gather up a row of motifs to create a 3D flower! Alter the length and width 
and you get more layers and visual variety!
Of the 4 motifs in the sampler, the first 2 follow the pattern, each colour giving a clear idea of which shuttle forms the core thread, in other words, which shuttle is in the hand.

In the 3rd & 4th motifs, I added decorative picots along the top edge of the rings, and Catherine Wheel Joins in some chains for a smoother look. Remember to count the CWJ as 1 stitch (as in 4th); notice how smooth and symmetrical the inner negative space is? I also played with colour placement, using Reverse Join, Twist Work, etc. (see Lock Join Plus for more options).

This is one more idea I had – tat the entire motif with bilateral symmetry. The best part? No need for paper clips and inward picots - no BBT (block below tatting)! Notice the central ring is worked as a split ring and the innermost left chain is tatted first. 
But some tweaking is required especially on the right side ... when I get my bearings back ;-P

Before signing out, let me quote my partner Ninetta -
I would say one more time that this project taught us a lot also in terms of collaboration. The n.7 changed family but each time "we" added a new piece in the puzzle, that is always an improvement, for both understanding the pattern and learning how to present the modernized version.

Remember, you can find all of Endrucks' patterns (& derivations) in English here - 

Friday, 9 July 2021

a pernickety question

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 When I focused on bilateral symmetry in this pattern, I forgot about the blocks (see 3rd pic below). Thus, while most rings on left and right halves face the same way, the chains in the left and right blocks are incongruous -- instead of being mirror images, they all face the same direction.

Block Tatting is made up of rows/tiers of chains. These rows/tiers can be worked one above the other, or one below the other.

1. Block tiers moving up ie. tatted ABOVE the previous, are simple to make, joining below with a lock join to the picot(s) on previous chain. Like the blocks in pic #1 below -

The block on the right is tatted the same way starting from the shortest chain on top, and moving 'above' to the next row/tier (though it looks upside down).
Now compare the left and right blocks with respect to 2 variables - the colour of each chain/block, and where the chains face. Not symmetrical, right?!

2. When the next tier is tatted BELOW the previous one, it means we need a picot on the core thread to which the new chain level can join. We need down/downward/inward facing/intruding picots! Of the many methods, holding the picot space with a paper clip is most common. This is how the right block was tatted ....

In above model, the left block is tatted 'normally' with chains stacked above. But for a mirror image, the block on the right is tatted with the next chain worked Below the previous one, with a regular picot join instead of lock join. The penultimate chain (beige) in the right block held 4 paper clips till each join was made! (sorry about the shoddy tatting)
Again, compare the 2 blocks in terms of colour placement and chain direction.
Mirror images!!! 
This is the way Pina Pinto has worked her sampler for the Endrucks Project - I will be sharing the pattern when it is diagrammed.

In the above model, all the blocks (in cream and in purple) face towards the right. (The cream rings along the 'belt' are not mirror images since I did not think ahead). Since the row moves from left to right, it is easier to tat in this manner.
Frau Endrucks tats all her blocks with the next chain above the previous one, although she states clearly in her tips that it is not necessary to have picots. Simply move the stitches a bit, clearing space to make the join.

Now here's my pernickety question - Would you be Mr Meticulous with perfect mirroring of blocks despite the invasion & interference of all those paper clips or would you rather be Dr Downplay, just going with the flow without bothering overly much about the left and right sides?
 
Which factors would influence your choice -  whether working with 1 or 2 colours; mood; time constraints; competition submission; etc. 

Please enlighten and entertain ....


And hopefully you will join the global lace community on International Lace Day (July 11th) ....choose your form of lace-making and celebrate the day. I have already registered (free, but only a few hours left, so hurry) with this ILD group on Facebook and intend to tat a new earring/pendant - the motif can actually be repeated to create a lovely edging! I am hoping it will work .... let's see. Off to load my shuttles. Maybe I can upload a diagram on or before 11th, in case you wish to tat and experiment with the same pattern? Stay tuned .....

Monday, 18 January 2021

a quadrille or more

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Yesssss, we now have more tatters joining in our dance - it's no longer a tango! More on that at end of post.

Carin Jansen's Angel Choir doily TAL – Round 2

pattern - http://handwerk-fee.blogspot.com/2020/11/engelenkoor.html

Angels are what first drew me to this pattern. And to see them merrily dancing around was an added bonus. It is a very clever and creative design and hats off to the designer, Carin!

Techniques : 2 shuttles ctm, long chains, pointed chain (one stitch SCMR), picot join to right, SCMR, lock join, very small picots.
Optional Techniques : 1 shuttle and ball ctm, frontside/backside tatting, other methods for pointed chain, mock ring, blipless join, beads.
[all tutorials can be found here with several alternatives for pointed chain, joins, etc.]

As before, we share our joint notes, tips, and ideas below. Carin has already given very detailed instructions, including alternate stitch count for metallic thread, which I will try not to repeat here.
Round 1 Noteshttps://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/two-to-tango.html

 
This is a cleverly crafted angel using simple rings and chains and reverse work between them.

The 1ds SCMR creates a nicely pointed chain for the wing tips and a picot between the 2 half stitches is perfect for joining later, without adding extra length/bulk to the tip! Whether to put a paperclip to hold the picot open depends on our personal comfort and skill.

Shuttle 2 requires more thread than shuttle1 which is used for only 3 of the 4 rings in each angel. However, one can work entire round with only one shuttle and ball if the head is worked as a mock ring. After making a lock join, continue to tat a chain and make another lock join in the same picot to simulate a ring.
Each center and head ring is secured on either side with joins to a chain, ensuring good stability. 

Joining to previous wing tip can be a bit tricky in fine thread. However joining directly without SCMR creates a curved, not pointed wing. It is easier to work this SCMR with 1st half stitch, join, 2nd half stitch.
Besides joining the wings at the tips, another join can be made further down to add stability or hold shape – about 4 or 5 ds down, using a very small picot. This will not alter the overall shape. This additional join could be more important if one does not want to tat more rounds.

Many tatters prefer to work long chains with the balanced double stitch. Make necessary stitch adjustments if you use it.
TWoT Notes:  The row can move in clockwise or counterclockwise direction as seen in both WIP versions. The reason can be found in whether one is doing traditional or fs/bs tatting; whether the first ring was worked frontside or backside.
In directional tatting (fs/bs), one should be careful while making joins to avoid colour blips on the front of work. Or one can use blipless joins.
For frontside/backside tatting, you could start this round with a backside ring so that most of the tatting is then done frontside.
There is some ruffle while working the round, but settles after simple rolling pin blocking.

The last wing joined to the first is an example of picot join to the right, though one may not realise it.
Beads on the halo would sparkle. Or perhaps graduated picots? The free flowing effect of these angels seems like they are floating through air, making each angel unique.
Notice the large sunflower shape if we do not tat the top half of each angel's body? So we have a bonus option to work a large flower coaster in the right colours! And we know how to get the petals to be pointed :-D
In Lizbeth size 80, 
single Angel motif  : < 3cms high; 2.5 cms wide wingspan; 1 cm wide at base.
After 2 rounds, this doily measures 9 cms in Lizbeth size 80.

I absolutely love this colourway and am glad I did not go with my original yellow for this round. And the little ring for body is truly special with the 1ds adding a tiny 'waist'! Every project brings in new learning in some way or other.


Now for the group dance ..... 
Several tatters on facebook showed interest in doing this tatalong with us!  I might include their versions here as I blog. eg. Cristina Reb's 1st round in Anchor size 20 -
My friend, Rose Deguara, had a tip for Round 1 (which I have now included in that post) - The last inner ring needs to be joined in the round to the first inner ring, thus calling for a picot join to the right.   
Look for #AngelChoirTAL on facebook to find posts and pics; some have joined us in the Just Tatting group.
Off to do the next round, now that I have immersed myself in this orchestration ;-D

Oh, and check out how Vera has covered her bauble/ornament even though it is not Christmas - https://veragondolatai.blogspot.com/2021/01/frivolitas-gombre.html I have updated my post with this option and my own idea!

Friday, 4 December 2020

picot join to right part 4

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I haven’t picked up my shuttles in a long time despite spending all my free time in tatting-related activities and interaction. And I’ve been neglecting my blog, too – can’t let that happen!

Well over a week back, this is what I made quickly for an experienced friend.  She, too, like I, avoids the folded join when making a picot join to the right. I prefer to rotate the work slightly on my hand, repositioning the picot on the right such that it now comes to the left, and then execute the join normally. These are my detailed pictorials and article on the topic -

http://www.tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com2016/03/demystifying-joins.html - about picot join
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part1.html - outward facing rigs
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part-2.html - chains and down join
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/10/picot-join-to-right-part-3.html - where we need this join.

What I did not explicitly show in Part 2 was what happens when all rings face inwards. She was under the impression that 'with inward facing rings no such rotation is required to execute the final join  since we are working counterclockwise'. Visuals are better than words, hence …

Picot Join to the Right – Part 4 

(joining last inward facing ring to the first using Rotate Work)

The following motif comprises single inward facing rings (4-4-4) separated by bare thread and joined to each in the round. 
 
1. 6 rings have been worked and the last, 7th ring is started. It needs to be joined to Ring. 6, so pull up a loop through the picot of previous ring. This picot is to the left of current work and we perform the action almost on autopilot, without any extra movement.

2. The same as #1, but laid flat to see clearly, The knotting thread is pulled through picot. Note- this can be pulled down for frontside tatting.

3. Now comes the point at which Ring7 is to be joined to Ring1. 
Where is this joining picot in relation to this last ring? It is to the Right. Try making the join without shifting the motif. 
4. Hence some form of picot join to the right is needed - be it a folded join, or a simple rotation, or whatever you are comfortable with.

5. Since we are avoiding the folded join, notice the slight counterclockwise rotation of motif while still in hand, to reach the picot. The movement is so subtle, that it goes unnoticed, unlike in a rosette with outward facing rings (Part 1
My own theory is that we need to rotate more when rings face outward, hence it is immediately noticed.

6. Loop pulled up through picot and shuttle being passed through it.

7. Join made and ring closed.

8. Motif complete. Tail ends hidden.

The principle to remember is this (TWoT Notes): Whether overall work (motif or lace) progresses clockwise or counterclockwise, whether we are working on the front or the back, the current element - Ring - is Always worked clockwise*, and Chain is Always worked from left to right. Hence when joining in a circle (last to first), whether the rings or chains face inward or outward, the joining picot on the first element will be to the right of current element, and a Picot Join to the Right will be needed.

*The only exception that comes to mind is a Reverse Ring where stitches are being added counterclockwise. 

UPDATE: A tatter graciously shared her feedback after trying it - this method works well in needle tatting as well!

Practice Patterns : 
For further practice, try this R1:4-2-4-2-4. bare thread. R2:4+2+4-2-4. and so on ... where each ring is joined to the previous ring through Two picots on each side. The last ring will need to be joined to the first 2 picots on Ring1.

Also consider inward facing trefoils or clovers instead of single rings. 
eg. this Clover Wreath Poinsettia is good practice for the picot join to right. It has both inward facing clovers as well as outward facing thrown rings that need to be joined in a circle.