Trying to catch the last golden rays of the wintery sun!
Thursday, 13 November 2025
a winter butterfly
Sunday, 7 August 2022
mirroring
Only 8 more days to go and my heart is beating fast ....
My messy heart after 6 days 💗This is how I intend to place the leaves. In the background is the sketch for reference. The center is an outline of the coin. And there's one extra leaf but who knows it might come in handy once I start gluing.
Saturday, 8 January 2022
here we go again
I shouldn't, but I am! Yeah, I should've been working on my numerous commitments, but these hearts were calling to me and I am taking life easy and don't want to regret my actions/inactions. Being tiny, they kind of fit into my Life Interrupted, so there!
1 & 2 were what I shared yesterday - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2022/01/hearty-round-robin.html and they needed improvement. Enter trials 3 & 4 respectively.I tried 2 things together. One was to make asymmetrical split rings (thanks, AlenAlea Rako), and the other was adding another row of chains below. I also added more joining picots for stability.
Trial #4 is the picoted version of trial #2 - gentle gradation - and I like it.
TIP: This version can be made with shuttle and ball by using any of the Lock Join Plus options to change direction. ( https://drive.google.com/file/d/17zsM3JaLO7r0ajg8VOnv5IcJ-kLNqEiU/view )
Forgot to include this yesterday. The encircled portion is the heart I am trying to make. Notice how it is much broader here than in my free-standing ones? I tried to mimic the count for the most part in my first trials. But it is the pull from the rest of the round(s) that creates this stretched shape. Perle cotton versus mercerised cotton could also be playing a small part.
Here are the old and new versions together. Is there any improvement? I'm not so sure. And because I added a stabilizing picot for the long chains, the arch is higher than wider, changing the overall outline.
Here the picots definitely perk things up! I even considered a Josephine Ring on the inner chain but Mickey Mouse came to mind.
3 hearts in a Shamrock arrangement, just like Diana Howe had done with the Happy Heart from Endrucks' pattern #1 - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/03/lucky-hands.html
Monday, 29 November 2021
the foster child
Reworked patterns from Frau Eleonore Endrucks-Leichtenstern’s ‘Die Schiffchen-Spitzen’, 1920, for Endrucks 1920 Project.
Don’t these look like folk dancers with frilly skirts and knocking elbows! Now add a head to each to complete the ladies…. A single motif, with a bit of addition, could become an angel or Crinoline lady.
Endrucks' pattern #7 pdf (click to download): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UDNg-1W6LJ3pyrn_Umz5f33BF01_92-E/view
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| adopting, not foisting, the foster child... |
Starts with chain and work moves form right to left. Good use of 3 colours.
House #2 (Douglas Hill): Enthusiastic choice in the 2nd volunteer list, and mutual collaboration, # 2 conceded that #3 (adaptation & tatting) was better.
Starts with chain, with inward picots for bilateral symmetry, and work moves from right to left.
House #3 (Julie Santos Villegas): An immediate & willing response but later needed help which #4 provided, but health forced another shift.
Starts with a ring and work moves from left to right..
House #4 (muskaan): Formally adopted and continued to maturity.
Starts with a ring and work moves from left to right. With options shared.
TWoT (This Way or Tat?) and Diagram Notes :
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| original model |
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| original diagram |
But there is a 3rd aspect. Her diagrams are read from left to right. Most of the patterns start with a chain, and when we actually tat a chain normally (not direct tatting) and continue, the working progresses from right to left (as in Houses 1 & 2).
I find myself doing mental & physical callisthenics in order to sync her diagram with the work in my hand. I like to know where/how my very first element faces, and where the threads emerge to continue – this orients me correctly till the very end. This is especially true for her patterns which involve frequent changes in direction.
Hence there are 2 solutions I have employed –
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| original diagram flipped |
1. Try to start the pattern with a ring. It has obvious advantages, including CTM and hiding tails. It is how I presented this pattern, shifting the start from a chain to a side ring. (Julie had first started her adaptation sampler with the central ring and diagrammed it accordingly, moving from right to left). Now the work progresses from left to right as in the diagram.
2. Draw a working diagram where we follow the pattern exactly as Endrucks has written starting with a chain, but the diagram shows this first element on the right instead of left. And the diagram then moves leftward (as in the flipped diagram above). No need for any brain callisthenics – simply lay the work against the diagram and you are facing the ‘right’ way.
One more common feature of several patterns is that the central ring at the base (from which chains radiate) is tatted at the end of the motif. The only reason I can think of is to make it easy for a designer to estimate how large the ring should be and avoid multiple prototypes. Anyways, several of our pdfs show this ring as per the original. I have always shifted it towards the start of the motif joining chains to it, rather than joining the ring to chains.
In the 3rd & 4th motifs, I added decorative picots along the top edge of the rings, and Catherine Wheel Joins in some chains for a smoother look. Remember to count the CWJ as 1 stitch (as in 4th); notice how smooth and symmetrical the inner negative space is? I also played with colour placement, using Reverse Join, Twist Work, etc. (see Lock Join Plus for more options).
“I would say one more time that this project taught us a lot also in terms of collaboration. The n.7 changed family but each time "we" added a new piece in the puzzle, that is always an improvement, for both understanding the pattern and learning how to present the modernized version.”
Friday, 9 July 2021
a pernickety question
When I focused on bilateral symmetry in this pattern, I forgot about the blocks (see 3rd pic below). Thus, while most rings on left and right halves face the same way, the chains in the left and right blocks are incongruous -- instead of being mirror images, they all face the same direction.
Block Tatting is made up of rows/tiers of chains. These rows/tiers can be worked one above the other, or one below the other.
1. Block tiers moving up ie. tatted ABOVE the previous, are simple to make, joining below with a lock join to the picot(s) on previous chain. Like the blocks in pic #1 below -
The block on the right is tatted the same way starting from the shortest chain on top, and moving 'above' to the next row/tier (though it looks upside down).
Now compare the left and right blocks with respect to 2 variables - the colour of each chain/block, and where the chains face. Not symmetrical, right?!
2. When the next tier is tatted BELOW the previous one, it means we need a picot on the core thread to which the new chain level can join. We need down/downward/inward facing/intruding picots! Of the many methods, holding the picot space with a paper clip is most common. This is how the right block was tatted ....
Now here's my pernickety question - Would you be Mr Meticulous with perfect mirroring of blocks despite the invasion & interference of all those paper clips or would you rather be Dr Downplay, just going with the flow without bothering overly much about the left and right sides?
Which factors would influence your choice - whether working with 1 or 2 colours; mood; time constraints; competition submission; etc.
Monday, 18 January 2021
a quadrille or more
Yesssss, we now have more tatters joining in our dance - it's no longer a tango! More on that at end of post.
Carin Jansen's Angel Choir doily TAL – Round 2
pattern - http://handwerk-fee.blogspot.com/2020/11/engelenkoor.html
Angels are what first drew me to this pattern. And to see them merrily dancing around was an added bonus. It is a very clever and creative design and hats off to the designer, Carin!
Techniques : 2 shuttles ctm, long chains, pointed chain (one stitch SCMR), picot join to right, SCMR, lock join, very small picots.
Optional Techniques : 1 shuttle and ball ctm, frontside/backside tatting, other methods for pointed chain, mock ring, blipless join, beads.
[all tutorials can be found here with several alternatives for pointed chain, joins, etc.]
As before, we share our joint notes, tips, and ideas below. Carin has already given very detailed instructions, including alternate stitch count for metallic thread, which I will try not to repeat here.
Round 1 Notes - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2021/01/two-to-tango.html
The 1ds SCMR creates a nicely pointed chain for the wing tips and a picot between the 2 half stitches is perfect for joining later, without adding extra length/bulk to the tip! Whether to put a paperclip to hold the picot open depends on our personal comfort and skill.
Shuttle 2 requires more thread than shuttle1 which is used for only 3 of the 4 rings in each angel. However, one can work entire round with only one shuttle and ball if the head is worked as a mock ring. After making a lock join, continue to tat a chain and make another lock join in the same picot to simulate a ring.
For frontside/backside tatting, you could start this round with a backside ring so that most of the tatting is then done frontside.
In Lizbeth size 80,
After 2 rounds, this doily measures 9 cms in Lizbeth size 80.
Friday, 4 December 2020
picot join to right part 4
I haven’t picked up my shuttles in a long time despite spending all my free time in tatting-related activities and interaction. And I’ve been neglecting my blog, too – can’t let that happen!
Well over a week back, this is what I made quickly for an experienced friend. She, too, like I, avoids the folded join when making a picot join to the right. I prefer to rotate the work slightly on my hand, repositioning the picot on the right such that it now comes to the left, and then execute the join normally. These are my detailed pictorials and article on the topic -
http://www.tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com2016/03/demystifying-joins.html - about picot joinhttps://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part1.html - outward facing rigs
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/09/picot-join-to-right-part-2.html - chains and down join
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2018/10/picot-join-to-right-part-3.html - where we need this join.
What I did not explicitly show in Part 2 was what happens when all rings face inwards. She was under the impression that 'with inward facing rings no such rotation is required to execute the final join since we are working counterclockwise'. Visuals are better than words, hence …
Picot Join to the Right – Part 4
(joining last inward facing ring to the first using Rotate Work)
5. Since we are avoiding the folded join, notice the slight counterclockwise rotation of motif while still in hand, to reach the picot. The movement is so subtle, that it goes unnoticed, unlike in a rosette with outward facing rings (Part 1)












































