1. Following a DS, tat a 2nd half-stitch (SHS) but do not snug. Instead pass your shuttle back to front thrice through the open leg as we would normally do for any PDS.
2. The 3 wraps are now being snugged ...
3. Notice how the wraps or spirals coil around the Core thread.
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VAPOUR STTICH - by Ninetta Caruso (2011) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/ninettacaruso/5660263485/in/album-72157625550124777) more popularly known as the Vapor Picot. This can also be considered a variable PDS, but with a notable difference in the initial step itself.
1. Make the first half-stitch (FHS) but do not snug. Pass the shuttle from front to back through the loop but BEHIND the open leg. The crochet hook shows how the shuttle would need to move.2. Here the shuttle is following the path outlined above.
3. Repeat the step twice more, thus making three wraps behind the leg (they are now around the leg). The thread tends to twist.
4. Now transfer the wraps to the ball thread and gradually allow the wraps/spirals to move down snugly. Notice how the wraps are stacked one above the other vertically - the complete opposite of spiral knot stitch. (Compare pic #3 of spiral knot stitch with pic #4 of vapour stitch)
5. Tat second half-stitch to complete the vapour stitch.
Both effects together. I have limited my samples to the very basics. It is interesting to play with the number of wraps especially as shown by Ninetta. When you increase the number of wraps, we get a curved coil.
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Now this next effect is not strictly a padded double stitch but I found it so interesting when I had tatted my first sample as Anita and I worked through the book (or started to but never finished!) last year. (https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2023/06/bigger-flower.html).
KNOBBLY LINE - Anne Dyer (1993). The way this is worked is completely new to me, but very easy. I do hope to use the effect in some project. Applicable to both rings and chains.
We work 2 DS, but leave a very small picot space between them without snugging. Start the 3rd DS but move the ball thread loop over the open space before tensioning the half-stitch. Follow this by a normal SHS. This is seen in the right sample above. She says to make 'sure the twist is on the top and not at the back'. I found this a wee bit fiddly this time and had to manually coax the thread into the desired twist.The same samples as seen from the back are also interesting.
If you have managed to read this far, I commend your patience and passion! And I'd like to stress that this is not a comprehensive listing of variable padded stitch effects. It is probably the tip of the proverbial ice berg. Why not create your own?
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Many thanks to all mentioned above - they enrich our world of tatted lace!