2D solid tatting

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 Carolyn Craig's journey of 3D solid tatting started with a flat 2D fabric which she first made and shared publicly in 2020.

This was the piece. In her words -

"My first piece of solid tatting was for a tapestry purse in 2020. I tatted a flat piece of solid tatting for tube at the bottom of the purse for a scarf or umbrella."

This is what the 2D solid tatting fabric looks like without the appliqued tatted letters. It is worked continuously in to and fro rows with a shuttle and ball. Thus we work from the front from left to right, turn work and go back from right to left in continuous succession and repetition.

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Above is my first attempt when she privately discussed her process with me. I chose to start with a ring and worked in continuous chains around it.  It is worked all from the front and the joins are made through the waistband of each double stitch (she calls this LFW - lock join front waistband) of the previous round.

My mistake was to use knitting cotton size 10. This is not as firm as crochet cotton. Also I couldn't always make out the joining point and probably fudged.

Nevertheless it gave me enough of an idea of how Carolyn worked her solid tatting.

One can continue this piece and end up with a 3D model but more on that in the next post.

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Meanwhile Carolyn has created a PDF with her pictorial on flat or 2D solid tatting. She graciouslygave me permission to share her work here. I like the applications she included towards the end. 

2-D Solid Tatting with Carolyn Craig April, 2026 PDF - 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12-ti9Ut7j9KXvrubxncW1mK3lnhvRnFE/view

The tutorial starts with a foundation chain rather than a ring and I followed along ....

 

Her tip about using a marker or pin is Really helpful. 

This time I used Anchor crochet cotton size 20 in single colour and worked off a ball with single shuttle.There were some errors and I had to re-tat the 3rd row ... practice will make it neater.

This is how it looks from the back - like knitting!!! Seed stitch as some members said.

TIP: In a square or rectangular piece where we alternate between working rows from the front and the back, all joins are made through the 'hidden picot' since we are not deliberately making any picot.  Carolyn terms this the LBW (Lock join to back waistband), 

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Carolyn pointed out that while some pinholes are fine in a flat piece, if we wish to use it for 3D, the space should be as minimal as possible to avoid any stuffing from being visible. So I continued with tighter stitches ....

You can see the difference between the upper and lower halves. 

Texturally, too, the upper half is stiff. Although I do like the lower one - it feels more cloth-like when handled. Each has its use.

The same sampler from the back. The seed stitch pattern is more obvious in the lower half than the upper one, though it could be my own fault.

At present this is set aside. Oh by the way, I used 7 double stitches per row and am certain there was some fudging at some of the turns.  

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So far, when worked in ROWS of 1DS chains, it is nothing different than Dora Young's patterns. The difference is merely in design; in the combination of dense and open areas. And she deliberately made 'picots' at each lock join. 

Since I last posted, this is how far my Dora Young's Round Pinwheel Doily from her 'All New Knotless Tatting Designs' (2nd ed) has reached.  As of 5th Oct 2025, it is 14 cms or 5.5 inches in diameter. The dense pinwheel is complete and only the open chain rounds are left. However, I ran out of thread and couldn't decide on how to proceed. 

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To recap, 

Solid Tatting is simply dense area(s) in any tatted lace. Usually the dense is interspersed with lighter/airier portions in interesting designs. Solid tatting also includes tatted formations such as blocks, coils, tallies, onion rings, etc. Remember how many of Eleonore Endrucks'  patterns have broad and diversely shaped blocks interspersed with more open areas? Die Schiffchen-Spitzen, 1920 -https://docs.google.com/document/d/17LEVftXweztBIOWh4sL4BB7bX65ssoOsOn4oXIgCepY/view. The difference is that she uses longer chain segments as well as segmented blocks rather than single DS chains. Even before Endrucks. we come across a couple of projects in Lady Hoare's book (1910) where continuous rounds of tiered chains provide a dense highlight to patterns.

UPDATE: Double Chains also offer a solid design option, however they require a minimum of Three threads - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2024/09/pleasure-and-pondering.html

However solid tatting can also be applied to 3D models as we shall see in the next post. 

Many many thanks to Carolyn .... the best is yet to come! 

leaf to star spinoff

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A large majority of our games in the FB group have ended up with more spin-offs and patterns than what we originally went in with. The same happened with the #LeafMeEndrucks Sep2024 game where you got to see the beautiful versions collated in four roundup posts (links at the end). One such is a star (which started out as a starfish) born from the combination of five E15 Leaf Doodles #2.

Following is the E15 LEAFY  STAR  by Manju Talekar (Sep2024)  pattern PDF link -   https://drive.google.com/file/d/15PQwxt3BXZkEv7kPSRK_U091VnSsqTTj/view

Manju sent in her drawing with the stitch counts, notes and tips and we soon converted it into an Inkscape diagram and complete presentation.

The negative space in the center created when 5 leaves are joined, is filled with a simple medallion.

NOTE: The model can be tatted continuously (in one pass) by climbing out of the center motif with a split chain and climbing into the first arm with a split ring. This option is provided in the PDF.

It didn't take long at all for some members to jump in with their versions!

Gelsomina Carbone - (Nov2024) 

Now isn't this interesting how Gelsomina arranged the star as a flower with a large bead in the center!

Jessica Hanson - (Oct2024 and Oct2025)

Notice that she did away with all decorative picots, giving clean outlines and a sharper star shape!

Such lovely backgrounds!

Jessica tatted her white version last year and showed us the two pink models earlier this month. She considers this one of her favourites!

Notice that the lower model has beads - minimalist but strategically placed. Let me repeat what she asked in FB to help her decide, and perhaps you can pitch in with your preference -- 

"To bead or not to bead? Which do you like better?"

Liberata Cacciottolo - (Nov2024)

This version in metallic thread looks quite sparkly with relatively long picots and the shadows seemingly uplifting the model!

Mela Cabo - (Feb2025)

Another lovely shade of metallic thread and a nice background . 

Silvana Buonvino - (Nov2024)

Silvana's silver center and gold arms highlight the pattern in a way different from the monocolour ones.

Now that it is stars and snowflakes time of the year, we expect plenty more models to fall into our lap!

Now this E15 motif is so versatile that I myself adapted it to one or more versions of leaves, tree, candle flames, bell, poinsettia, maize, etc. etc. And a year before this leafy star, Paola Emilia Rotuletti created the E15 Star (Oct2023) which was also used in the Dec2023 game. While Ninetta will share all pics and details, you can find Paola's version in our Snowflakes and Stars from Endrucks Direectory here -https://docs.google.com/document/d/1NKMYK3i4PI9pRmyotGCk5GkV2xcDS_hSgJfh322EQFQ/view

Moreover, if you remember, Manju herself also created the enigmatic E15 Ganesh, E15 Holly Leaves, etc., during the game.

Please use the hashtag #Endrucks1920Project, and cite the name of the designer and pattern when you post your version on any social media platform. And the hashtag for this game is #LeafMeEndrucks.

Thank you everybody, for making this all worthwhile and keeping Ninetta and me happily busy :-) Now if only we could tat all of the wonderful ideas and patterns that keep coming in ;-D

Related Posts
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/10/leaf-me-roundup-1.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/10/leaf-me-roundup-2.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/10/leaf-me-roundup-3.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/10/leaf-me-roundup-4.html
https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/08/festival-tatting.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2023/12/the-power-of-15.html

flower in flesh in thread

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This post has been waiting to be written for almost a fortnight .... I just couldn't form the words. While I miss chatting through my blog and through comments on other blogs, I was just not in that phase. While I read up most of the blogs during this time, sometimes I simply scrolled through the pics. I hope you will excuse and forgive me for being a lurker.

One morning my hubby brought me this portulaca flower from his garden. Can't say how it looks online, nevertheless it is a beautiful soft pink with dense layers - almost like a carnation! We usually allow these blooms to remain on the plant since they wither very quickly if not in water (unlike the jasmines I posted recently which remained in bloom even after 14 hours without any water). Of the two plants he has, one has already died away 'for no rhyme or reason' but this other one is flourishing quite nicely. We're hoping the number of blooms will keep increasing.

Pic was taken on 30th August 2025 as was the one below.

I had been engaged in doing up a block tatting pictorial in answer to a specific doubt. It spiralled into a virtual ready reckoner of various effects, methods, etc., etc. Had to shelve it for a while but will be back on it in a couple of days. Anyways, my dear friend surprised me with this pattern of Dora Young's Round Pinwheel Doily from her 'All New Knotless Tatting Designs' (2nd ed)! I just had to tat it!

Worked with Anchor Pearl Cotton size 8, ball and shuttle. I had started with grey in shuttle and a yellow ball. It dawned on me that a variegated or tinted thread should work well in such a pattern so I switched to this. 

This pic, taken on the 5th of this month has 17 picot-round completed. Since then I have added more rounds - I'm probably on the 21 picot round (amidst other Endrucks-related behind the scene stuff). 

The green scrap thread is a marker for the start of the round. It's not really required since the pattern is extremely simple and spirals around almost mindlessly. Haven't had to retro-tat even once. 

Not using a picot gauge - I prefer to eye ball picots as much as possible and while I know they are not all even here, it still seems to turn out fine.

The doily is so well-constructed, so well-designed, that it lays flat throughout. The frequent joins in the dense portions give it a nice texture. And it is exactly the type of patterns I enjoy working on -- tatted all from the front!

bridge tatting

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 Like I said in my recent posts, expert and experienced tatters have graciously come to my aid whenever I asked for it. And some have gone a step further by sharing their work and/or discussing techniques and terminology even before I asked.  One such is Judith Connors who has been instrumental in guiding and inspiring me through this past decade. My presentations have been influenced by her despite not being a perfect student.

Early last month, Judith sent me her article on 'Building Bridges' along with a pic of her Fan motif (If you are a member, you can see her model in the Queensland Tatters 2025 group post here - https://craftree.com/forum/threadfs/40423?page=1#258577). We had discussed bridging some years back, too. I was in a state of tatting inertia when this motif instantly spurred me to wind my shuttles and tat since this decorative/functional bridge had been on my trial list since 2019 (https://craftree.com/forum/threads/39159), but never got down to actually applying it. I did do the Rose Motif from Priscilla Tatting Book No.3!   

Bridging Flower Motif - based and adapted from Judith Connors' Fan motif

sharing my process, pattern, and tips/tricks

How many rounds does this motif have? 

Do we cut after the inner 'rosette' round?

Were Celtic shuttles or needle used for the Celtic effect?

Or were 4 shuttles used for the interlaced/overlapping chains? 

Getting back to the present motif, it occurred to me that I could use the element to create overlapping or interlaced chains instead of single lines! So off went my shuttles to confirm. 

Now this post is only about the adapted motif - process, pattern, and tips/tricks. I have pics for a pictorial, along with the background and explanation, terminology and history. Part of it is already explained in the link above (https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2022/01/bridging-gaps.html). The rest will be shared in a few days to avoid stepping on Judith's class despite her permission. For the curious, we know the technique as split chain, which is a misnomer and limiting, meant mainly for climbing out.  

My first attempt. I ran out of thread and also realised that if I continued around there would be cupping (I had increased the count in some parts). Moreover the thread had a tendency to unravel, even though it is Anchor mercerised cotton. Cut my losses and started over.

Design Tip starting with a magic circle: Since I wasn't sure how big the central ring should be, I preferred to use the  magic circle (the multiple threads are to make the picot large enough to join to later). Wrap the thread around the magic circle and start the first inner chain. End each chain with a lock join around the circle. 

TIP to keep last half-stitch flipped: The marker on the right - since each bridge is a long chain, by the time it was completed, the last half-stitch often unflipped and locked the core thread below. This temporary marker on the core thread prevents it from happening. 

After a few repeats, I pulled on the magic circle to see whether it was working well. Successful; no cupping or ruffling.

Bridging Flower Motif pattern

1. Only 2 shuttles are used with continuous thread and the entire motif is worked in one pass. 
2. 8 repeats and all chains in this prototype. No space for a central ring. In Anchor mercerised crochet cotton size 20 (equivalent to Lizbeth size 10), the motif measures 6.5cms in diameter.
3. In the image above, I have split the sequencing (A to F) to indicate where there is a change of direction , shuttles, or element. 
4. The entire motif is worked clockwise from the front.
5. Chains C & E are bridging chains aka bridge, bar. 
6. I used a 2cms folded picot gauge to measure the bare thread for bar/bridge before lock joining it to a picot on the previous element.  TIP:  I found that making a lock join by pulling the loop down instead of up through the picot makes a neater start to the bridge.
7. These bars are covered with Dora Young's Knotless Method or tied stitches worked from left to right. I worked them all from the front, though there are several variations of the method. 
8. NOTE: The arrows for bridges indicate where the thread from shuttle2 goes, not the direction of working the stitches. 
9.  While making each subsequent bridge, keep it in FRONT of the previous chain so that the overlapping is synchronised.  

10. For the bridges on the last rosette chain, TWO each had to be made! The above image shows the first pair done and the 2nd pair is being bridged.

After working the first bridge exactly like ch-C, then one more bridge is made joining to the first rosette on the right, at the base of the very first bridge. The stitches are then worked using the Australian method. This, too, is worked from the front, but in the opposite direction (right to left). Repeat this for the 2nd pair of bridges. 

Important: To maintain overlap, pass the shuttle under and over the last bridge both times.

11. After the motif is finished, and both threads are in the center, I threaded them together and inserted the needle through the picots held open with the magic circle, and kept removing the threads from the circle. Final tie, cut, and hide ends.

Option: One can use metallic thread or colour-coordinated thread for the magic circle and leave it be after tightening the slip knot. Then hide all ends - from the motif as well as the circle.

 

Possible Variation: However one can use a central ring of 10 small picots separated by 1ds and make a 10-repeat motif. 

Future Idea: Can we use this bridging technique to work block tatting over or across an element?

I will try to write the pattern in a more lucid form when I share the pictorials and other details. Here I wanted to focus more on the process.

Technique Option: Also, instead of the bridges going from right to left, we can move forward. Thus from chain A we can work the 'bridge'  like a floating chain or single shuttle split chain, leaving a picot open with a paperclip to join to later. 

Bridge tatting or bridging encompasses a lot more, not all of which is outlined here. In this post and motif, the bridges are ornamental - a design element; they can be functional too. Hopefully I will be able to cover it all in the pictorials post. 

I cannot thank Judith enough for her valuable mentorship and guidance since we 'met' at InTatters a decade ago! We may not always agree but the discussions are always lively and passionate!

identity tatting

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 It was called a coaster, and coaster it shall be!

Padma Madayam surprised me with her Rounds 1 to 4 of my Just So Coaster soon after I had posted the pattern last month! However it escaped her notice that I was using size 10 knitting cotton which is a pretty thick thread. Worked in size 20 crochet cotton, her 'coaster' turned out to be too small for a coaster! And after my coaxing, she embarked on a journey to make her coaster a coaster! This is the beauty that emerged ....

Her coaster now measures 15.5 cms after the addition of two more rounds designed by her and which she has kindly shared with us. No more identity crisis ;-D

This is her first four rounds following my pattern here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/04/just-so-tatting.html

And following is her pattern for rounds 5 & 6, inked in the image as well as written notations ...

ROUND 5 (designed by Padma Mandayam) - a scroll with rings facing outwards.  This can be worked with a ball and shuttle, continuous thread, if working as separate round.  See NOTE for continuous tatting ... 

  Ring1: 4 - 3 - 3 - 4. RW

Chain1: 5 + 2 + 2 + 5, RW

  Ring2: 4 - 3 - 4 - 4. RW

Chain2: 5 + 1 + 5, RW

Repeat all around. Join last chain to base of first ring, tie, cut, hide ends. 

 

ROUND 6 (designed by Padma Mandayam) - this scroll round has trefoils and all rings face inwards (towards the center).  This can be worked with a ball and shuttle, continuous thread, if working as separate round.

  Ring1: 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3. do not RW

  Ring2: 3 +(to ring1) 3 - 3 +(to round5 ring) 3 - 3 - 3. do not RW

  Ring3: 3 +(to ring2) 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3. RW

Chain1: 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3, RW

  Ring4: 5 +(to ring3) 5 - 5 - 5. RW

Chain2: 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 - 3, RW 

Repeat all around. joining Ring1 to Ring4, and final Ring4 to first Ring1. Join last chain to base of 1st ring. Tie, cut, hide ends. 

NOTE: For continuous tatting of rounds 5 & 6, use 2 shuttles, CTM: Make last ring of round 5 a split ring to climb out, and climb in to round 6 with a split ring for Ring2. Adjust tatting sequence accordingly, ending the round with Ring1. 

If you visit her timeline in Facebook, Padma makes superb beaded jewellery including beaded crochet ropes, besides tatting and crochet. She sent me two pics sharing her crochet and tatted coaster sets (six each). An accomplished lady for sure. Padma has also worked on several Endrucksian derivatives despite having joined recently, and participated in my DALs!

Many many thanks, Padma, for sharing this beautiful version of a properly-sized coaster :-))))

Related Posts 

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/05/comfort-tatting.html  (my round 5)

comfort tatting

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 Wonder why I find this my go-to for comfort?! Is it because it increases in girth so fast, the knitting cotton being a size 10? Perhaps, because it is easy on my eyes when working late into the night and secondly I have been so involved with sample tatting that I couldn't take time out to tat larger doilies. And since my resolution is to keep the design simple, each round tats up real quick.

This is how I started Round 5, but noticed that the previous round started to cup. Tried tugging on the new round, but realised it wouldn't work and the stitch count needed to be modified.

Snipped off the core thread in each chain but left the rings there. Two advantages - 

1. I saved the knotting thread (maroon) [Jane McLellan's tip - https://janemactats.blogspot.com/2015/03/snip-rings-not-chains.html ]

 and more importantly

2. when flattened, it was easier to work out the increase in stitches to avoid cupping.

And here's the pattern inked on the pic! Another scroll round.

Round 5 of the Just So Coaster

There are enough picots in this round to add a 6th round when I need some comfort tatting ;-D I have no idea how it will progress though. I only know that the cream will be back! 

It measures 12.5 cms across BUT remember I am tatting with thick thread (Anchor knitting cotton, size 10). Your model might be much smaller in tatting cotton. Nevertheless, feel free to design your own next round and share.

Pattern for the previous 4 rounds is shared here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/04/just-so-tatting.html

TIP: If you wish to work the coaster in one pass, ensure the last chain in Round 4 is worked as a split chain, followed by a mock or false picot and then a split ring.

just so tatting

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Over the past few weeks I had been receiving versions of the DAL 2025 challenge and I was feeling very inspired and motivated, itching to design/tat. While I couldn't focus on adding another round for my own DAL version, I picked up a motif I had worked for the glossary and decided to tat around it. My aim was to keep it simple.

For many samples I have been using Anchor knitting cotton size 10. This is very thick but smooth and a bit loosely twisted. Sometimes it is necessary to be attentive while tensioning the stitches to keep them uniform. Nevertheless, I do enjoy tatting with it. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to use such thick pieces in SOUP tatting. So I am happy that this has now become a good size for a coaster (9cms across).

Sharing the pattern for the Just So Coaster if anybody is interested. I was simply winging it but it lays flat.

• It can be worked continuously in one pass by climbing out with mock picots, split chains and split ring. Trace the path before you start. Otherwise, enjoy working as individual rounds and play with colours. 2 shuttles are required only if you wish to tat it in one pass. 
• Count for each round is marked in a different colour.
• It starts with a central ring with long picots, followed by two rounds of chains lock joined below.
• The 3rd round is a scroll with rings and chains. I wanted the smaller rings to overlap a wee bit but they ended up only squished together. Both small rings are joined to the same picot of previous round while the large ring is joined to the hidden picot above the lock join.
• Again a chains-only round with medium sized picots. 

There are pics for individual rounds - WIP and/or completed. However, I doubt they are needed and would take too much time to notate. Hence I hope the inked count along with my notes will suffice. 

• And if working as separate rounds, it is a beginner pattern with only rings, chains, picots, picot joins and lock joins and each round can be worked with a ball and one shuttle, CTM.

I deliberately have picots on the last round in the event I feel like adding one or more rounds. 

Feel free to extend the design to more rounds, if you wish, but do share it with me. All my contact details are on the top right panel of my blog.

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UPDATE (3rd May, 2025): Round 5 is shared here https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2025/05/comfort-tatting.html and end Round 4 with a split chain for continuous tatting. 

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I hadn't intended for the scroll round to be so overwhelmingly ecru. So it lay around for some inspiration. It was a happy coincidence that I bought new threads from a 'new to me' online store. I needed more contrasting colours in this knitting cotton to work on the samplers and as soon as the package was delivered my mind was made up with this maroon shade! 

Since it was my first time with this store, I bought single balls/sets of different types of threads/brands so that I know what to expect in future, except for the six knitting cotton shades. And I am very happy with the quality and service and will definitely be going back for encores ;-D It was nice to see they stocked size 40 threads too, albeit in Red Heart, since Anchor has stopped manufacturing it. The other balls are all Anchor - size 20, perle, etc. More about the 'cone' threads later.

So this is my knitting cotton palette for now. Bottom row are the 4 shades I have had for a very long time (there are at least 6 more balls of ecru, bought from my local shop at least 10+ years back). I have already used all shades in my recent samplers, giving new life, energy, and colours!

Happy Tatting! Thank you for inspiring me!

back to old style

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Whether one is 'on a break' or not, the backroom activity never ceases! 

Ninetta had uploaded her Endrucks' patterns as one-page diagram-only images on flickr (her depictions are so artistic!). As our Project evolved, she decided to convert them into proper pdfs, with written notations. I had the pleasure of reviewing each of them. This doily #40 was the last of them and the pdf link will soon be uploaded to the Endrucks collection here - https://docs.google.com/document/d/17LEVftXweztBIOWh4sL4BB7bX65ssoOsOn4oXIgCepY/view 

While reviewing her presentation, I got into tatting mode to make sure of clarity and accuracy. Ninetta masterfully modified the original (which cupped) into flat lace. While both patterns are in the pdf, I chose to tat the modified Doily #2.

If you haven't already, I urge you to read her para here (and also enjoy her beautiful tatting) - https://ninettacaruso.blogspot.com/2020/11/renewed-on-third-try.html

Colours simply called to me to highlight the flower shapes and to liven up the days and impel me to tat.

 

What amazed me is how the black center looks more like a flower when seen from the back! Something to remember for future use as a design element!

My tiny variation includes the addition of these graduated picots on the inner side of the split rings. The negative space seemed too large and these picots add a soft touch.

The final round included block tatting.

All rounds move clockwise from the front and can be tatted continuously (as detailed in pattern - many members have already worked continuously in one colour!). 

I went way back in time to work each round separately, despite using 2 shuttles, for a multicolour rendition. Hence this is not a correct representation of the pattern - both Endrucks' original and Ninetta's modified.

For block tatting, instead of making 1ds after a lock join, I prefer counting the lock join as a half-stitch. This gives a neater and narrower effect on the inner end.

Worked with Anchor Pearl Cotton size 8, the final doily measures 9.5cms across. It is less than 4cms and less than 7cms after rounds 2 and 3 respectively. The threads are a mix of old and new buys.

Techniques - 2 shuttles, continuous (one-pass) tatting with split rings and split chains, mock picot, thrown rings, block tatting, 

It is interesting to note (and confusing at times) that even though a split ring takes the classic tear-drop shape, there is a visual reversal! The broad end is the start and threads emerge at the narrow end. This can become potentially confusing not just in tatted model but in diagram as well. 

I like what Ninetta said about diagrams - they are more "democratic"! Absolutely. And easier to present, too. Trying to get the written notations right can be quite a potential 'hazard', taxing the brain.

One year back Marja did a lovely application or Easter, covering  an egg and sharing her notes here - https://solmujenlumoissa.blogspot.com/2021/04/paasiaisen-2021-kapypitsimuna.html . 

Many thanks, Ninetta and Marja - keep inspiring and pushing the limits