Showing posts with label 25 Motif Challenge. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 25 Motif Challenge. Show all posts

Friday, 4 March 2016

Demystifying Joins

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What started out as a simple project to understand the numerous joins we come across in tatting, has overwhelmed me. New as well as experienced tatters often ask “How do I make this join?”, “Do I know this join?”. Often, it is a join we know but is named differently. We think we’ve solved one question, learned a particular join, & another pops up! This has caused many bumps in my road of discovery, throwing me out of joint. After working on & off for the last several months, I have finally decided to post the work as a series. This will help me refocus my energies on smaller sections, and will keep the reader interested. It will also give me a chance to add or amend, based on feedback.


JOINS  IN  SHUTTLE  TATTING
IN SEARCH OF COMMON PRINCIPLES
PART – I

I would like to thank each person and resource named, including the many unnamed and unaccredited who have helped develop this beautiful craft/artform. 
A very special thanks to Judith Connors. 
Any error or oversight is solely mine .

Fundamental Principle : Nothing is sacrosanct. Choose what works best for you and the pattern. However, be open-minded. There is no harm in learning new options.

This is not to say that the evolution, history and development of tatting does not matter. It does, and we continue to learn from these, build on these, or create independently. They can, and do, cause duplication, multiplicity of terms, redundancy, overlap. However, nothing may be regarded as obsolete. The following is my attempt to make sense of it all: arrange all the joins in a conceptual framework, join the dots. 

Again, what I write here is not sacrosanct. It is simply my attempt, with the limited resources at my disposal, to clarify my own thoughts. It is not a tutorial, but a collation and annotation of various tutorials and terms (with links/references provided). An image/collage of each join is inserted as a quick visual reference only; for detailed tutorial of each join, refer to footnotes and links provided at the end of each Part. A tabulated chart for a bird’s eye view of the main/common joins is also part of this study. Considering the prolific creativity of our tatting community, I strongly sense that this will remain a work in progress. I invite you to contribute any information to make this more comprehensive & up-to-date.

Limitations :
  • This study is largely based on shared online resources & popular terminology. Of the large number of online tutorials, only a few are provided, due to obvious constraints. Any omission is unintentional and regretted.   
  • Some of the terms I have used for categorization and description may be arbitrary – best suited or limited to this discussion.
  • Some common “threads” have emerged from a study of the various joins. I have tried to encapsulate them into normative rules & general principles. There may be exceptions.
  • The study is limited by my own learning & understanding at this point in time.

Abbreviations & Explanations of Terms used :
DS – double stitch, double knot, double hitch, double, lark’s head
hs – half-stitch in a DS
fhs – 1st half-stitch
shs – 2nd half-stitch
cap – the horizontal bar over a DS
legs – the two vertical bars under the cap of a DS.
core thread – the thread on which DS are made & slide.
RODS – reverse order double stitch used in directional tatting.
FS/BS – frontside/backside tatting or directional tatting.
RS – reverse stitch, unflipped double stitch, lark’s head, 2nd half of split ring stitch
SH1 – shuttle 1 .
SH2 – shuttle 2.
SR – split ring
Joins (in alphabetical order) :
CWJ – Catherine Wheel join
LJ – lock join
JSS – Join to smooth side
OTT – over the top join
PJ – picot join
RJ – Reverse Join
S&RJ – slope & roll join

Notes :
  • The term ‘join(s)’ is used in the noun form throughout the text. To indicate action, ‘link/linking’ has been used, to distinguish it from the Join itself.
  • Almost all joins can be made without a 2nd shuttle (if working with 1 shuttle & ball) ; it is just that getting the ball to pass through a loop, as required in some joins, is not convenient !
  • Throughout the discussion, SH1 is considered to be the core thread over which DS are made. SH2 is the shuttle that forms the stitches in chains hence also called the chain, ball or auxiliary thread. Where the join can be made easily with a ball, it is mentioned. (refer to pic1 below)
  • While a join can be made directly between the legs of a DS (as in onion rings, coils and Catherine wheels), for the present purpose, all joins are made through a picot, unless otherwise stated. And this ‘joining picot’ is on a previously tatted ring or chain.
  • Unless otherwise indicated, all joins have been started by bringing the loop Up through the joining picot, as seen from the front. Make required adjustments in backside tatting.
  • For consistency, I have counted the join as fhs throughout, continuing with shs, wherever applicable.
  • Some alternate names that one may come across are added within brackets or at appropriate place.
About Pictures  :   
Pic 1. Explaining the visuals 
  • All tatting is accomplished with Anchor Mercer size 20 thread.
  • Black thread represents previously worked tatting which has a ‘joining picot’.
  • Yellow thread is the SH1 or core thread.
  • Aqua Blue thread is the SH2 thread which represents the stitches formed. 
  • 3 colours have been used only for visual differentiation & clarity.
********************************
WHAT  IS  A JOIN ?
It is a method to link, bring together or connect two or more elements/pieces and secure them in place. Over 160 years ago, tatting was done with a single shuttle. Motifs were worked individually and then joined together with tiny knots or with a needle and thread to create a fabric. Directions for joining at a picot (PJ) were published in 1851. This was a revolutionary step in the evolution of tatting as one could “integrate the tatting in progress with a piece of tatting previously accomplished” 1   

Basic Movement :
This requires three simple steps :
  1. Pull a loop through the picot or point where linking is required,
  2. Pass the shuttle through the loop.
  3. Tension and snug.
From this basic movement arise various modifications and adaptations. Hence the plethora of terms and techniques.

Variations in Step 1 :
1a. Pull loop up from back to front (Up join)
1b. Pull loop down from front to back (Down join)
1c. Loop pulled is from SH1 (eg. LJ, S&RJ, RJ)
1d. Loop pulled is from SH2 (eg. CWJ, JSS, LJ, S&RJ, RJ, ball thread joins)
1e. No loop, just threads across an element (eg. Over & Under, Wrap, Alligator, OTT joins)

Principle : Most joins can be made by pulling the loop either up or down. This provides the flexibility needed in directional and 2-colour tatting.
Rule : Thread/shuttle closest to the point of linking is used to make the join.

Variations in Step 2 :
2a. Pass SH1 through loop (eg. PJ, LJ, S&RJ)
2b. Pass SH2 through loop (eg. CWJ, S&RJ variation)
2c. Thread from Other shuttle is encapsulated within (eg. CWJ, RJ,)
2d. Thread from Other shuttle is not encapsulated within (eg. LJ)

Principle : Any, & I stress, entire project can be completed with just TWO joins – the picot join & the lock join, preferably working with two shuttles for a free-sliding core thread throughout. All other joins are a modification of these basic joins for the purpose of beauty and perfection; smoothly curved chains; even-looking and complete stitches; avoiding colour blips in 2-coloured tatting; ease of switching colours; etc.
Rule : Encapsulation of auxiliary thread eliminates the colour ‘blip’.

******************************** 

CATEGORIES
I have tried to divide joins into three categories for better understanding. However, there is still a lot of overlap and variation within a join. Think of it as a Venn Diagram or Olympic Rings where certain characteristics of individual joins can be common.

I.       Above : when the caps of both the joining elements face each other
II.     Across : when one element needs to cross to opposite side
III.  Below : when the caps of both joining elements face in same direction (parallel).

Each type of join discussed below is accompanied by one or more links in the form of original source, tutorial, or description arranged chronologically at the end, along with additional references. This is not an exhaustive list.

I. ABOVE - when the caps of both the joining elements face each other
All these joins are used when we need to link to an element that is above the line of working. In these cases, the chain/ball/auxiliary/SH2 thread is closer to the joining picot while the core thread (SH1) is further away.

I.1 Picot Join (PJ) aka traditional join, regular join, normal join, basic join, up join.
This is the basic of all tatted joins.
  • It allows the core thread to slide freely.
  • It can be done with single shuttle.
  • A bit of vertical thread/leg is visible within the joining picot, & may be counted as a hs.
  • It makes a colour blip at the back, when using 2 colours.
  • It applies to both rings and chains.
  • It is used in Folded Join, ANKARS tatting, Curled Rings.
  • It is the most commonly used join when adding beads to tatting.
  • When multiple rings/chains are joined to a single long picot, PJ is commonly used.
Rule : Some joins are considered in the stitch count (counted either as one half-stitch or as 1DS). There are tatters who choose not follow this practice.
Pic 2. Picot Join - Up & Down as seen from front & back
Variations
I.1.a  Down Join  aka  downward join
This is a PJ performed in the opposite direction, i.e. pulling the loop down, instead of up through the picot.
  • It allows the core thread to slide freely.
  • It can be done with single shuttle.
  • A barely visible horizontal bar is formed in front. In single colour tatting, this can be followed by shs to mimic a complete DS 2.
  • It places the colour blip at the back of work.
  • It is used in directional (FS/BS or RODS) tatting and, sometimes, 2nd half of split-ring joining in order to keep the colour ‘blips’ at the back of the work.
  • It can be used in the Folded Join.

I.1.b  Joining in a Circle aka joining last ring to first, joining first ring to last 
UPDATE May 23, 2017 :
This category can be termed Picot Join to the Right. See detailed explanation here  
Inward or outward facing rings can come together to form closed shapes or medallions where the last ring needs to be linked back to the first ring. At times, this can cause the joining picot to twist. Following are the ways to accomplish a twist-free join.
Also note that the same applies to a chain, when it has to be linked to the right.

Folded Join (FJ)  aka Twisted Picot Join
This is needed when linking the last ring to the first ring of a circle. It is simply a way of folding the tatting to get better access to the picot, and also prevent it from twisting when ring is closed.
  • Basically employs a PJ – either Up or Down join.
  • The joining picot is deliberately turned/twisted before pulling loop through it to compensate for the fold. The deliberate twist eases/untwists when the join is complete & ring is closed.
  • May take some practice to master it.
  • The linking may be made from the back side 3.
  • Most tutorials show outward facing rings, some show inward facing rings 4.
Avoiding the Folded Join 5
The last ring can be linked to the first ring easily without a FJ, in a PJ movement.
  • Basically employs a PJ – either Up or Down join.
  • It entails a simple reorientation of last ring in relation to first ring before linking.
  • Is applicable to both outward & inward facing rings.
UPDATE Sep 2018 : pictorials Part 1 ; Part 2 ; Part3
Pic 3. Avoiding a Folded Join
Riego Join
A slightly different way of achieving the same objective.
  • Before starting last ring, required length of thread is cut off & pulled through picots on both sides. Thus the core thread is linked before tatting the last ring. 6
  • Can be used to complete a circle of closely tatted rings.
  • Useful when tatting individual or separate motifs or if one is running out of shuttle thread.
  • The last ring is finger-tatted.
I.1.c  Swirl Join 7
The name refers to the visual effect created by joining multiple elements together.
  • It is a normal PJ
  • The join is made at the very end, while tatting the last element.
  • It is useful in linking more than 2 elements (usually rings) at a single point, in one motion.
  • A single loop in pulled through all the picots simultaneously & shuttle passed through.
  • It creates a swirling effect when the picots overlap in the centre. Hence length of picots is important.
    Pic 4. Nina Libin's Swirl Join & Wrap Join
I.2  Lark's Head Picot Join (LHPJ)
It is an “invisible join” since it forms a complete stitch within the joining picot. It can be applied to both rings and chains.
  • It creates a continuous/smooth/unbroken chain or ring by mimicking a DS.
  • The join is counted as 1DS and usually included in the stitch count of segment before the linking occurs.
  • It is an extension of the PJ
  • The formation can be done in one continuous motion by pulling a single loop through picot & arranging it like a lark’s head before passing SH1 through it. Thus the DS is ‘pre-shaped’ & snugged together in correct order. 8
  • Alternatively, the formation can be split into 2 motions : each hs is formed separately by pulling a loop through the picot once for fhs & again for shs. Each loop is twisted in a certain direction before passing SH1 through it. Each hs is snugged before starting the next. 9
  • Useful for smooth visual effect.
  • It creates a blipless join when working with 2 colours.
  • Can also be used in SR (to be discussed in Part II).  

Pic 5. Lark's Head Picot Join 


To be continued …
UPDATE : Part II - Shuttle 2 to the rescue 

********************************
Footnotes & Tutorials (Part I) :
2 A Study of Tatted Joins (2004) – up, down, shuttle.
The Basic Picot Join – Jennifer Williams (2011)
3 Folded Join by Lisa C Trumble (1992) 
Folded Join by Jennifer Williams (2010) 
Twisted Picot Join by Ann (2010).  
4 Finishing a motif with a folded join by Heather Tatter (2011) 
5Joining the last ring to the first. Method 2 - Jennifer Williams 2010 (outward facing rings)
Tatting Tip: Avoiding the Folded Join by Heather Tatter 2011 (inward facing rings)
Joining First Ring to Last Ring Jane Eborall 2012  (outward facing rings)
Outward facing rings join Jackie Reynolds
6 Lesson 113 video by Karen Cabrera  
The movement is similar to interlocked rings where instead of posting shuttle through previous ring, we are posting cut thread through joining picots.
7 Swirl Join by Nina Libin (2012)  
8 Lark’s Head Picot Join by Lily Morales (2003) 
9 LHPJ the Krystledawne way by Krystle Pyette (2012)


For a collection of great tutorials on a range of joins, please visit :
Additional reference : Elgiva Nicholl’s Tatting :Technique and History (Dover) 1962   


Motif #25 of III for 25 Motif Challenge

Monday, 29 February 2016

"17 years in the making"

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I sat down to tat a snowflake. Little did I know that hidden in a cocoon in the central flower, there was a butterfly waiting to spring out ! The snowflake was Georgia Seitz’ SuperBowl Sunday Snowflake 1999. 
When I shared my first pic in the Tatting Design Class, it was received enthusiastically & the pattern was cleverly dissected (no harm came to the butterfly :-) !). At the time I had named it after the snowflake (one of my ways of giving credit to the original) - quite a mouthful, though.

However, after talking to Georgia, it became Super 17 Butterfly for two reasons – it had taken 17 years for the snowflake to become a butterfly, & my date of birth is 17.
Recently I remembered two more important reasons ! This is the 17th year of her Online Tatting Class, And she celebrates her 17th birthday today – yes, forever young our GS !!!

This little butterfly is dedicated to Georgia Seitz 
& her immense contribution to the tatting art & community.
Happy Birthday, shuttle sister :-)
I am sharing 3 main versions of the butterfly – a simple 2D basic pattern & two 3D versions, with a few little options thrown in. All the butterflies can be tatted in one continuous pass.

THREADS USED & FINAL MEASUREMENTS
Yellow Butterflies : Anchor size 20 Art 4054 (0293 lemony yellow  & 0302 dark yellow)
Black Butterflies : 2 strands of Anchor variegated embroidery thread (1325), & Anchor Mercer size 40 black.
3D Peach Butterfly : 3 strands of Anchor variegated embroidery thread (1315) & Red Heart 0328)
In size 20, they measure 1¼”x1” & in size 40 1”x ¾”.

Super 17 Butterfly  
Basic Pattern
There are times when one is looking for a simple or beginner pattern. This 2-page pdf contains only the basic pattern in the form of written notations & diagram. It can be worked with single shuttle & ball & thread size of choice.


showing folded chain & inward picots
Options for antennae/feelers
in size 40 threads

Super 17 Butterflies 

                                      2D & 3D patterns 
This 5 page pdf contains both the basic pattern with diagram, as well as two 3D versions with some process pictures.

If, while tatting, one decides to convert the basic 2D butterfly into a 3D version, simply follow along without cutting & tying! The 2nd wing is winged after completion of body with one minor change. And one can still work with single shuttle & ball.
In this version, the basic 2D pattern is followed till the end where instead of 1ds, a Mock Ring (or SCMR or chain joined back on itself) of 2ds is made. Continue without reversing work. The 2nd wing is worked from behind/back side of the previous wing and is a mirror image of the 1st wing. The wing is joined back at the base of the head to complete a 3D butterfly.



I got the feeling while photographing, that the head got hidden in the 1st version. My very first visualization had been to make the body 3D by coiling a chain around, as I had once done back in 2014 for a freeform pond reed (see pic). But that will have to wait for another butterfly.

Instead I added texture & bulk to the body by using a combination of variable padded ds & Josephine chain. To make the head more prominent I applied my perpendicular arrangement of concentric/onion JosephineRings.

So here’s version 2 of the 3D butterfly for those who like a bit of a challenge.
This version requires 2 shuttles. 

The antennae/feelers were kept simple with a long picot snipped in half later.
The peach thread is perle cotton which was a mistake! It appears bulky but loose & the stitches are never as neat as one wants them. Nevertheless, in order to show the head & torso, I had chosen a lighter shade .



I hope nothing has been left out. In case of any questions, mistakes, etc. feel free to talk to me. You know where to reach me :-))) 
happy tatting :-)

Related Posts/Tutorials : twisted picots (floating)

Motif #24 of III for 25 Motif Challenge


Tuesday, 23 February 2016

Spiral Snowflake Pattern

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Spiral Snowflake / Medallion 

This snowflake is my serious foray into 2D designing. I am more comfortable with freeform & 3D designing and my challenge is to try & create flat pieces with repeating motifs/rounds. Starting small with this 2-round medallion. Can it go further to create a mosaic or a multi-round doily ? Time will tell.

The Design Process 

The pattern came to me one night when I was on the brink of sleep (as often happens!). In the dark, a tablet is a handy device to jot down ideas immediately, without waking/distrubing others. But Kaleidoscope app is a bit limiting, since I cannot jot down notes alongside.
Installed the Sketch Guru app & this is the first sketch I drew on it, along with my thoughts. A no-frills skeleton.
Next step was to determine where each element will be joined, which led to inclusion of picots at those points (#2 in pic below). And a possible option to use folded rings instead of chains.
Sketch & skeleton is fine, but what about the stitchcount ?!     
From position of picots, I guesstimated the stitches for central round. My thumb rule was to use a certain number & its multiples to keep things simple & easy to remember. I think this idea came from all the tatting one has done & from reading Sharon Briggs’ design tutorials. Sharon’s tutorials provide a very practical & visual understanding of design in tatting. 
And it worked the very first time round !!! So much so that in Round 2, on the 3rd repeat itself, I felt comfortable & confident of it's flatness and embellished it with Josephine Knots.
The only change I made in final version was to reduce 1ds from the chains in Round 1.
Lucked out or more appropriately collective wisdom at work again :-)

Since this had started out as a free pattern for beginner to intermediate level, the pdf contains detailed notes, including links for tutorials, & pattern instructions that will hopefully be of aid. There is also a table for the thread lengths required in each version, size 20 thread. For this post, I am uploading only the diagrammed pattern & the pictorial. And of course some more pictures !


The Pattern 

If any help is required, you know where to reach me :-)

The Models
1. Basic Pattern
In the prototype, rings & chains in Rnd 1 were in different colours. (see #4 prototype in above pic)

2. Beaded Version
This is what I originally made.... 
...then added a central bead (below). Now it looks good to be converted into a jewellery piece

3. One Pass Version in single colour
To tat the medallion in one pass, start with a blind chain (or dead end start to chain) in Round 1. 
To climb out from round 1 to 2, make the last ring a split ring. For all the rest, follow pattern instructions.

4. Layered Flower/Medallion Idea
Playing with the models for a layered effect....


I hope to carry this off-center theme in future designs as well – that is my overarching Design Concept for this year, for Susan Fuller’s Tatting Design Class. Whatever I design, I hope to have some off-center element(s). Here it is the outer chain joins & Josephine Knot that gives a spinning, spiraling effect. But it could well be a ring, or …. I have a few ideas sketched/jotted down … can I tat them is the question ;-D

Motif #23 of III for 25 Motif Challenge


happy tatting :-)




Sunday, 21 February 2016

Identity Crisis

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IdEnTiTy  CrIsIs


Identity crisis – that’s what this snowflake has ! It wants to be a sun – a “sunflake”. We’ll let you decide – is it a snowflake or a sunflake :-)
Right off, I don’t like to tat patterns that have too much bare thread. I admire their dainty laciness; I admire the person who tats them up & shares their beauty; but I am not one who chooses to do it. So this particular snowflake was an under-protest, under-groaning & mumbling undertaking :-D

The First Day of December Snowflake
Lene Bjorn

I was looking for a “painted tatting” effect, hence the choice of transitional shades. I’d started off with a copper metallic thread center, but the threads in that trial were all slightly different in size & after a few rings, had to abandon it.
I opted for size 20 thread this time, thinking it might make a good coaster.
Abbreviations used in text below :
ds – double stitch
BTS – bare thread space
fs/bs tatting – frontside/backside or directional tatting
RODS – reverse order ds used in fs/bs tatting
fhs – 1st half stitch
shs – 2nd half stitch
hs – half stitch
JR – Josephine Ring

Round 1 : Red Heart 00328
Started with 1ds & finished with 2ds. This helps in keeping the picot well inside & safe, especially in rings that need to be cut & tied.

Round 2 : Anchor Mercer 0307 & 0289
Techniques used : 2 shuttles , with twisted thread between rings instead of bare thread, picot joins (both up & down), fs/bs tatting.

Remember my post on “new effects” earlier this year, & “wrapped rings or rings enrapt” in particular ? I used the same concept with bare threads, wrapping/twisting them, thus overcoming the use of 2 colours on a rings-only-with-BTS problem.

Advantages :
  • I could use 2 colours. One can, in fact, alternate the colours as one pleases! ( Ninetta has used 2 colours in a very beautiful way here & here )  
  • It had the added advantage of acting as a built-in picot gauge if one counted the number of twists (I used 5 twists) !!!
  • It also brings in some stability which is an asset for a coaster.

TIP : I inserted the 2nd colour shuttle into the first & the last half stitches of each ring.
Close ring before adjusting length of BTS of 2nd colour.

Problems : It is not easy to keep the length, twist, & curves intact since the 2nd colour is not really anchored. May be with practice & patience…or a little knot of some kind.
This picture, taken in the sun on my raw silk sari, is simply to show that the threads have a lovely sheen, which gets lost in all the photos I take inside.

 Round 3 : Anchor Mercer 0300
Techniques used : Down Join, Josephine Ring, graduated picots, fs/bs tatting
I was so tired by this time, I gave up the idea of adding 2 shades here. Also, a little airiness was necessary.
All I did was add a Josephine Ring of 10 fhs. Always felt that space was too flat between the high peaks. I think the JRs work pretty well, right ?!
TIP : Now here’s a Great tip I recently learned from Georgia Seitz here, about using the down join as 1st half stitch ! So far, I was using it to keep colour blips on the back side of work. But this worked perfectly when the same colour elements were to be joined ! Conversely, when applying RODS (for fs/bs tatting), make an up join followed by 1st HS.
When there are 2 colours, as in inner rings of previous round, I used the down join functionally to hide blips as before. 

Technically I have completed 2 snowflakes for this month, except that these were supposed to be for January … still behind by 2 ;-P 
I’m including this in the 25 Motif Challenge because of the little experimentation & my first real (but failed) attempt to make wheels with BTS .

My next post will be a free pattern for a snowflake/medallion (& the next for a butterfly). It was all done, but then I decided to make a few additions … my work is never done ;-P

I have decided to standardize all links in my posts. They will be in bold font & blue colour throughout.

Happy tatting :-)

Motif #22 of III for 25 Motif Challenge

Related Posts : Lene's Day 2 Snowflake