vintage false CTM

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There are so many methods and even more combinations to add new thread to a work in progress lace. We came across Eleonore Endrucks' advice to fix mistakes in her 1920 book, 'Die Schiffchen-Spitzen'. Here is the translation - 

We now call it False CTM (false continuous thread method) and I have shared several scenarios and applications over time. Here, we limit ourselves to Endrucks' method, a variation of the same, and a knotless method.

All this has been presented as pictorials in this PDF - 

False CTM - Endrucks' Advice & Pictorials -https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_Jm7puHcMemY3lhwP2cP8G3EmcgamlVj/view

Since everything is already presented in the PDF, I will be brief here, with only a few selected pics. Please click on the link above to download the document.

1. False CTM - Endrucks' Method

Notice 1. the old tails tied together and the new ones tied together ; 2. the knots are far apart, with the new knot wound on the ball or 2nd shuttle, far from the point of attachment to the work in progress.. The blue thread between these two points creates the false continuous thread.

However, since the two tails (in each pair) are tatted over in the same element, it creates bulk. This can be countered to some extent by tatting very tightly.

TIP: Use a slip knot to tie the new threads (blue) so that it can be opened and the knot repositioned as desired.

2. False CTM - Variation of Endrucks' Method

In order to avoid bulk, here the old shuttle tail is tied with new shuttle tail and old ball/2nd shuttle tail to the new ball/2nd shuttle end. Preferably, maintain a distance between the two knots so that we have a continuous thread space to work with.

Look closely, all four tails are hidden (tatting over tails) in four different elements. The extra ends are trimmed later.

3. False CTM - Knotless Variation of Endrucks' Method

Knotting the tails can be completely avoided. Above the new ball or 2nd shuttle thread is being folded around the old tail and will be tatted over in the chain element. 

Similarly, the core thread can be added and worked over.

The other tail in each case can be sewn/whip stitched later, or pulled through stitches using a magic loop, etc.

The choice of the three methods would depend on the specific situation - how long are the old tails, etc.  The above is merely a small glimpse of the numerous ways in which we can apply false ctm. Some related posts/pictorials/PDFs -

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-1.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/10/false-ctm-part-2.html

https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=false+ctm 

Tatting Over Tails (PDF updated from 2017) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kwszAseuEZqkMdXosfTHtXdw0diCwmKz/view

Starter Picot or Starting with a Chain (PDF) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vzSHMxas51Yn5iujdmror1obx27AuIhw/view

Hiding Ends and Adding Thread - vast compilation of options and tutorials - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html

Hope you find this helpful in some future situation. 

starting with a SR pictorials

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 We are well aware that split rings are not meant only to climb out/into the the next round. They form a design element in their own right and when 2 colours are used, there can be interesting 'splits' in the overall design. Then there are split ring braids that make beautiful bracelets and lanyards. Speaking of which, what if we wanted to start a split ring braid in 2 colours https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=sr+braid? 

I rarely if ever use a knot to start any lace (except occasionally for a tut). Same holds true for starting with a split ring. I use this simple knotless method (which also holds good for true rings, mock rings, etc.) - cross the tails from each shuttle in the manner depicted, and voila, we're ready to go!

These pics were taken in 2018 and I dug them out when someone asked a question. The pdf has a bit more notations.

How to Start a Split Ring Knotless - click for pictorial pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lKYLoLFEhMycP4YFsemIEyk4TUjn69Q-/view

At the same time (2018) I had also taken pics for a related situation - what if the split ring braid had to be joined back in a circle? For instance in my Thorny Wreath Ornament - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2015/12/thorny-wreath-pattern.html where the foundation round is a series of 2-coloured split rings joined back to the start.

Obviously we need to have a picot in the very first SR. Initially I had made the picot on side 1 of the SR. However, it is not always easy to start any ring with a picot. Moreover that small picot has a tendency to close up when the core thread is pulled to close the ring. This is the reason I am not sharing pics I took at the time. Instead, I shot new pics where we start the split ring, knotless, with a picot on the 2nd side of the SR.

How to Start a Split Ring with a Picot, Knotless - click for pictorial pdf - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OS_9VdZSoWVSsOtQYT8UVb4nV6exmf2p/view

Both are one-page pdfs with minimal text.

Both links will be included in this huge collection of tutorials for how to start and finish covering all situations - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2016/11/beginning-or-ending.html

Do you remember my whimsical experiment to Hide tail ends in the last split ring without sewing? - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2017/08/hiding-on-whim.html This, too, was in response to a query.

And I used this same technique to hide the ends in a floating chain, with no sewing - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2019/12/open-treasures.html 

Hope some of these help when the situation arises.

My next post will be on the 3rd of Dec when I reach 2 milestones simultaneously. So do stick around ....

Add new thread WITHIN a ring

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When we run out of thread while working on a lace, it is easy to add new thread to a ring or even a chain. What if the next element is a largish ring and we have just enough thread to make a part of it, but not the whole ring?

1. Snip it off anyways - We could let that thread go waste, snip and hide it and start the ring with new thread. But if the thread is vintage, HDT, or not easily available we like to make use of the last possible length.

2. Extender - Tie a scrap thread as extender and work the ring normally.

3. Mock Ring – Switch shuttle and work that last ring as a mock ring or SCMR.

4. Switch the Core Thread – In case of split ring patterns, simply switch shuttles.

What if we know that the remaining thread can make only part of the ring stitches and we will run out of thread midways?

What if we could add new thread anywhere along the ring with least wastage of good thread? How ? Simple.

If you haven’t already done it before, here’s how to

Add New Thread WITHIN a Ring
how-to pictorial

UPDATE - Now in pdf (published in IOLI Bulletin Spring 2020) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g5GJz1rdzdKqpfw51Cm8lGptsY5S73ca/view?usp=sharing

Shuttle 1 – variegated ; shuttle 2 – cream ; 
shuttle 1 refilled with new variegated thread to show difference.

All threads are about a size 3 or 5.

1. Pink is the tail end of thread – not enough to make a complete ring.

2. Switch shuttle and start the ring as a mock ring. In this case I am using a SCMR 

(self closing mock ring), leaving a loop at the beginning.

3. I may not have enough thread to complete the ring. I have just enough to hide the tail.

4. At this stage new thread is added to the core. Notice that the ring is still open.

I like to tat over tails and hide tails in separate elements. But any method can be used.

5. First half stitch made over new tail.

6. Second half stitch made while hiding tail.

7. New tail encapsulated within the first stitch. Continue hiding for a few more stitches, 

leaving off after a first half stitch (the middle path mantra)

8. Ring is worked. Pass shuttle through loop .... 

9. .... and snug tight. We can now switch back to the original shuttle.

10. Continue. Notice the old and new tails in the same ring.

11. I prefer to whip stitch the old tail under stitches.

12. Now snip off all extra tail ends and continue working the lace.

Voilà.  New thread added to a working ring !!! No more untatting, no more wastage of good thread.

It is the first time I used this method. But it had been in my head for a long time and I recently encountered a situation where I recalled it, put it to the test and it worked!! A mock ring is after all just a chain.

You can’t really tell where the new thread is added. My ring shows it because the thread is too thick and it isn’t easy putting down your tatting and taking a pic at every step. I’m still pretty backward using images when the world is moving to videos! This is my comfort zone, though ;-P

Anyways, hope you like this and use it, if you aren’t already using it.

Related Resources and Tutorials to cover all situations–

An annotated listing

My tutorials 

p.s. During the finishing stage of this post, another idea has crept into my head. It works in my head, but I need to let the shuttles decide if they want to follow or not. I’ll let you know ….

tatting solutions can be easy & fun !

the middle path mantra

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Tatting over tails is a common method of hiding ends when we start a project or when we add new thread.

Continuing from the previous post where stepwise and comparative visuals demonstrated where to leave off the tail when hiding it within double stitches.

Part 2 demonstrates the same principle but in case of directional tatting, when we are working stitches from backside – where half stitches are in reverse order or sequence.

Since tail was hidden in a ring in Part 1, this time we show it on a chain.

Tatting over Tails - the middle path - 

download complete pdf here (Parts 1 & 2)

RW – reverse work

DS – double stitch ;

FHS – first half stitch ;

SHS – second half stitch.

RODS – reverse order DS, where sequence of half stitches is reversed. 

Tatting over Tails

Part 2 - backside 

This time I chose to tat a chain, working from the backside with RODS (reverse order of stitch). Here, SHS is made first, then FHS
1RODS = (1SHS,1FHS)

RW after ring made previously. We are now working from the back/wrong side.

1. Joining new thread (green/blue).

2. Start chain. 2 stitches (RODS) already made, encapsulating the tail.

Starting the 3^rd stitch with a SHS.

Notice the position of tail – it lies to the ‘front’ of the stitch being formed.

3. SHS snugged

4. FHS being made. Notice position of tail – it tends to lie ‘behind’ the half stitch

5. FHS snugged.

3 RODS completed

6. Continue till 4 RODS and 1 SHS made. Then leave tail and tat 1FHS normally.

7. Continue chain - more stitches made after leaving the tail

This is how it looks from the backside of work

8. View from the frontside of work

9. Snip the extra tail lengths as close to work as possible. Arrows show where each tail was snipped

NOTE : It is advisable to defer this step till a few more elements have been worked. Then pull the tails one last time and snip.

10. Tatting over tails frontside for ring and backside for chain, and leaving the tail in middle of a stitch, completed. 

So, here is the simple mantra to remember ...

the  middle path mantra

leave tail in the middle of a stitch !

Stop tatting over tail between 1^st & 2^nd half stitch when tatting a double stitch 

(frontside tatting);

Stop tatting over tail between 2^nd & 1^st stitch when working a reverse order double stitch (backside tatting).

This mantra also holds true for the reverse stitch (unflipped),  

as in 2^nd side of a split ring or direct tatting.

♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡

Tatting over Tails - the middle path - download complete pdf here

happy tatting always J

Tatting over tails part 1 frontside

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Sewing in ends is arguably the least favorite task of a tatter. The easiest way to avoid this is to tat over the tail ends.

We have plenty of good resources showing us how to accomplish it. See annotated list here. Yes, we can start any element, or add new thread in shuttle tatting without a knot. It is called Tatting Over Tails – basically encapsulating the tail within newly-formed stitches.

All tutorials I have come across so far simply stop tatting over the tail after the first few double stitches – specifically after the 2^nd half stitch.

This pictorial is to demonstrate and compare why it is better to leave the tail in the middle of a double stitch, rather than at the end. This holds true for directional tatting - whether one is tatting frontside or backside.

Part 1 illustrates where to leave the tail in frontside ring.

Part 2 will illustrate where to leave the tail in backside chain.

Contrasting colours are used to show the difference. Focus is on the process and concept.

DS – double stitch ; 

FHS – first half stitch ; 

SHS – second half stitch.

 Tatting over Tails 

Part 1 - frontside

In traditional and frontside tatting, FHS is followed by SHS to complete 1 DS.

Frontside tatting : 1DS = (1FHS,1SHS)

Most tutorials simply leave the tail after the 4^th or 5^th double stitch.

Here the tail will be left after the FHS of 4^th double stitch.

1. Blue is the tail to be hidden; orange/pink is thread from the shuttle to start a ring and hide blue tail within.

2. Start ring. 1 DS made encapsulating the tail.

FHS being made, with tail being encapsulated.

Notice the position of the threads within – they tend to remain behind.

3. FHS tensioned.

4. SHS started with tail within.

Notice the position of threads within – they tend to be come in front.

5. SHS tensioned

6. I stopped tatting over the tail after 4DS and 1FHS ; then continued to complete with 1SHS and 1DS. Thus 6DS made in all.

Tail is not visible in front

7. Now, IF I had stopped tatting over tail after 5 DS ie. after a SHS, this is how the tail would look – it emerges from the front !

Compare #6 & #7

 8. Tail hidden and ring completed as viewed from front.

9. the same when seen from the back. 

These last few pics clearly show how the tail automatically stays at the back of the work when we stop tatting over it after a first half stitch in traditional or frontside tatting, whether it is a ring or a chain or any other element.

Backside tatting over tail on a chain will be published in next post.

Do try it for yourself, and see the difference.

This is the way I like to do it and it works for me. Hopefully some of you will find it useful, too.

Tatting over Tails - the middle path - 

download complete pdf here (parts 1 & 2)

happy tatting always :-)