bingo, found it

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 My tatting-related activities are so scattered. And I feel quite scatter-brained. Wonder which came first, hmmm. Over the past several months I have been tatting samplers for the Glossary. Since it is progressing in sporadic bursts, I tend to either forget I've tatted it or misplace it. The pile-up does not help at all, neither does the various steps involved in saving and processing if not done sequentially and soon.

However I had a lucky breakthrough! Finally found the sneaky little Double Pearl chain sampler, whew. Incidentally, the PICOT Bingo game has one box for this technique, which is why I am sharing it here. 

My initial objective was to tat a short sample. However, the rhythm became quite addictive and I enjoyably continued till one of the threads ran out. What was meant as a short chain turned into a necklace.

Pearl Tatting is the double-sided technique with picots and stitches facing both sides. We are more familiar with the Single Pearl, worked with 3 threads instead of 2 for chains and it's counterpart the Maltese Ring worked with 2 threads instead of one. Pearl is the vintage term for picots. There are a few tutorials listed under Chains 🠆 Pearl Tatting, here. Mlle Riego wrote a book dedicated to this technique in 1867! 

Double Pearl tatting/chain, consequently, is an extended single pearl using extra auxiliary threads - a total of 5 threads for chains which tend to be straight.  

Double Pearl tatting requires 5 shuttles (or at least 3 or 4 shuttles + 2 or 1 ball, respectively) and encapsulation. Numerous permutations and combinations are possible, but I stuck to the basics.

You can change

• the number of colours and their relative position,
• the number and size of picots,
• the addition of decorative elements thrown off the chain,
• the thickness of threads,
• the stitches used (double and reverse stitches) and thence the number of shuttles used,
• embellishment with beads, etc., and so on.

● We can even have decorative chains instead of the long bare thread picots! For instance, dot picot string, bullion knots, JRs, Josephine knots, scallops, etc. 

On the left part in above image, you can see the thrown Josephine rings instead of the small picots.

TIP: If you wish to add such elements on each segment, ensure you have 5 shuttles.

I deliberately used 4 different colours. But imagine the confusion one can create if working with the same colour throughout! Even experienced tatters might find it difficult to identify how it was done, LOL.

I then continued as before, enjoying the rhythm. Josephine rings tend to break that working rhythm.

Threads used - Anchor mercerized cotton size 20 (equivalent to Lizbeth size 10) in 5 colours 

TIP: Only 4 colours are visible. The core thread can be of same thickness or thicker than the outer threads for a stiff cord. The core thread can also be made visible by simply bringing it forward, or by using Repositioning methods such as SLT, etc.

Picot gauge - 2 cms

TIP: It was easier to hold the gauge horizontally while measuring.

Starting the chain was tricky. I knotted the 5 threads together, but leaving the right length of bare thread took some trials.

Also, initially I made mistakes in maintaining a consistent overlap between threads. However, once I understood where the thread of last segment should be held while tatting the new segment, it became smooth sailing and addictive. 

TIP: Immediately after tatting a segment, I would place the shuttle to my left at the front of the work. Thus, when its turn came again, the picot overlapped from the front.

Directional or FS/BS tatting was maintained throughout. I didn't block the finished piece, except for shaping with fingers since I wanted to keep the gracefulness of the sinusoidal arches intact. 

I could've added more picots, including graduated picots, in each segment; or embellished with beads. However this was a relaxing, enjoyable tat, and I wasn't in a very adventurous frame of mind.

Since the core thread is of same thickness, it was easy to curve the straight chain. And it had become long enough to become a necklace instead of a bracelet, LOL.

TIP : Another way to ensure curvature is to shorten the picots on one side. 

I do wish I had added a few highlights such as beads and findings to finish off the 'necklace' properly. And one can use metallic threads for stiffness. Otherwise one might need to stiffen the piece for the picots to hold their shape when worn as a necklace or bracelet. So, I hope Natalie forgives me the lethargy.

Submitting this for two blocks in the PICOT Bingo - 

Double Pearl Chain, and 

Tat a Necklace.

And 💥Bingo💥! I have completed my first horizontal strikethrough! The middle row consisting of Tat a Necklace; Add Beads; Free Space; Graduated Picots; Catherine Wheel Join.

game antics

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 The saga continues from my previous post (https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/2023/11/flaky-antics.html). 

We chose the Antiks Snowflake pattern for our November 2023 game in our Endrucks FB group - Snowflake Me Endrucks. This name was chosen to indicate that we can try to adapt a pattern into a snowflake. We've derived snowflakes with E17, E3, E37, E31, E12, (see Snowflakes and Stars Directory)  but not as a game. We wanted to open the possibility of repeating the game in future with a different pattern.

Antiks Snowflake pattern (an E42 adaptation and extension by Muskaan) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U5J5sjuAA7D0qGPOGnK9RJ83MKdNkWSZ/view

We have a wide spectrum of skill levels in our FB group be it tatting or linguistic. Hence visuals become important. This flake has a few tricks. Ninetta offered to take stepwise pics! Hence we prepared an entire Supplement which has the detailed pictorial as well as a lot of other info, options, and links. 

Snowflake Me Supplement - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VFk4ZnBT9ObJxnEKgI6hUkk2wtd_gOD4/view

  

Ninetta's version in Lizbeth 10, colour 686. Hmmm, I wonder how her fingers, used to dainty threads, worked on this large thread, LOL.

Ninetta also uploaded a video demonstrating how to make the Split Chain!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hKfqa3LHnUor9UAen7sdqPgzZe0elU2I/view . 

She had actually done a couple more videos but this was the best. This is the kind of backroom activity we are engaged in to provide a wholesome experience!

Like I said before, we are beginning to use this as a platform for learning and bridging any gaps in tatting knowledge, while making it easy and accessible to all levels of tatters.

The Antiks snowflake uses Split Chains to climb out, and we already have some tatters who learned to make them for this pattern after watching Ninetta's video!

However, in case a tatter does not wish nor have the time, there are a few optional paths one can employ to climb out to the next round.....

 

Three such options are explained in the Supplement and each of these can be worked with a ball and shuttle, just like for split chains : 

How to Avoid Split Chains -

1. Bare thread space with a double lock join - an extension of what Mlle Riego did in her Bunch of Grapes (1850) single shuttle pattern.   (yellow model)

2. Shadow Chains - Frau Endrucks (1920) method   (purple model)

3. A continuous spiral - this one is more visually organic. (green model)

Pattern for this Rose Motif is also included for practice.

The main pattern pdf as well as the Supplement has more tips and links, including to the original ANKARS site (https://ankars-club.ru/). It is worth reading, given the common misconceptions about this technique.

Coincidentally, in November, The Online Tatting Class (TOTC) also did a few classes on ANKARS. You can access their articles and patterns here - https://www.theonlinetattingclass.com/ankars-patterns. Their YouTube site - https://www.youtube.com/c/TheOnlineTattingClass

Many many thanks to Ninetta for all her contributions!

3 and 1 and 2

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No, no, this time I have the sequence right!

These are the number of shuttles or threads used in rounds 3 to 5 of Ninetta Caruso's Swirling Butterflies Doily.

And it also showcases a mixed timeline in evolution of tatting techniques...

Rnd3 - treble tatting in butterflies - a very modern stitch, along with encapsulation/padded tatting ; 

Rnd4 - bare thread tatting with rings only - from the very beginning of the artform ; 

Rnd5 - chains and split rings - evolved between the 2 time zones above.

Round 4 : 11cms in Anchor size 40, worked clockwise with one shuttle

Techniques - one shuttle rings only, bare thread, lock join bridging, directional tatting

Remember my incorrectly tatted round that I snipped last time? It is the one on the left. On the right is the correct version.

 

One ring strategically placed, makes all the difference in the height and shape of the arch! 

The incorrect one measured 10cms across.

The bare thread is 2ds long, but I did not use any picot gauge.

The main feature of interest in this round is the bunch of 5 rings that look like leaflets.

The leaflets are again a look back in time to 1850! The leaflets are worked in the same way as Mlle Riego's Bunch of Grapes , using bare thread and lock join to emerge at a distance to start the next ring. 

TIP : Since the leaflet is worked from the backside, if we use a loop pulled down to make the lock joins, the bare thread remains at the back of doily. 

TIP : Also, it is better to err on the side of a slightly longer bare thread. If it is too short, it distorts the ring, as happened a few times.

TWoT Notes - Directional Tatting in Round 4

Following the pattern, if one starts with the outer large ring frontside, the inner small rings and leaflet will be worked backside and the leaflet will swirl as in the left image below.

 

However, if one works the small rings and leaflet frontside, then the latter will tilt in the opposite direction (pic on right).

UPDATE: As I worked more rounds, I realised that the bare threads at the base of the leaflet motif can be avoided all together! In my working, the bare thread makes the leaflets 'loose' and floppy, and they shift while blocking instead of lying flat.

TIP : In order to climb out to Round5, I left a long tail and began with the 3rd inner ring. This tail was used to work the split ring to climb out. 

How to add new thread in bare thread tatting

Round 5 : 13.5 cms, worked counterclockwise with 2 shuttles, starting with false CTM.

Techniques : split rings, directional tatting

The long tail acts as the 2nd shuttle thread. One can add a fully loaded 2nd shuttle at an element of one's choice later. I climbed out at the outer ring as seen in pic above instead of where the pattern instructed. Personal choice, nothing more.

 

The side of the septagon measures 6cms in size 40.

Such a lovely large flower shape! In order to highlight this floral effect, I chose cream. This forms the complete colour palette for this doily.

Against a black background (my tablet cover).

I am thoroughly enjoying this doily, though it is progressing a bit slower than I would've liked. And these 2 rounds gave me lessons in design and designing from a master of the craft!

All tutorials can be found here - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/p/tatting-resources.html 

All my Swirling Butterflies posts - https://tipsaroundthehome.blogspot.com/search?q=swirling+butterflies

The picot stands tall

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Many of us ‘eye-ball’ the picot. When precision is needed as in case of graduated, double/triple, interlocking/interwoven, central and tuft picots or in tatted hairpin lace, a gauge is required. Some ink/tattoo dots on their finger! I merely measure and cut some cardstock to use as a homemade gauge. To me, vertical meant looping the picot thread around the gauge, while horizontal meant laying the picot thread flat along the measuring side. 

But Robin pointed out that there are different interpretations (see comments) and it led to a lot of research ending in this article : Measuring the Picot.

I will use 2 images sent by her to illustrate how some tutorials/resources differ in their approach & terminology. One set speaks of how to hold the rectangular gauge, while the other talks about how the picot thread lies (in relation to core thread or the gauge) when measuring. 

 

            In A, the picot gauge is held horizontally, but the picot thread is vertical.

In B, the gauge is held vertically, but picot thread is horizontal.

But notice that the core thread remains the same throughout – horizontal!

Core thread is the only constant during measurement.

It lies flat (horizontal or on the X-axis)

irrespective of the picot thread or the picot gauge.

In A, we measure the height of the picot (5mm in this case) and the finished picot is of the same measure viz 5mm.

In B, we measure the length of the picot (10mm in this case) but when finished, the picot will measure 5mm.

Length of thread in any picot is twice the height of that picot.

Conversely, height of picot is half its length. 

In A, multiple picots can me made before slipping them off the gauge.

In B, only 1 picot at a time is possible.

Thus the seeming dichotomy is resolved. But this is not all. There are ways to use the gauge unconventionally; and ways to measure a picot without using any separate tool (see collage below) !!! These are all covered in the article, along with pictures – some stepwise. 

Part of the article was published in Bellaonline on July 12, 2018. More sections were added later, and refined further, to make it quite a comprehensive document.

Click to download the pdf of the complete article -

Measuring the Picot

This article is a compilation of the many ways – old & new - to measure a picot. Each method has it’s advantages and it is entirely up to the tatter to choose the method(s) they prefer. The article makes no claim of superiority of one method or of one gauge over the other.

The contents of the article :

I.  Orientation of Picot Gauge – horizontal and vertical

II. Orientation of Picot Thread in Relation to the Core Thread – height (vertical) and length (horizontal)

III. Non-conventional  Applications/Uses

A.                  Direct Tatting (unflipped stitches)

B.                  Decorative Effects

C.                  Graduated Picots 

D.                  Multiplier Effect of Gauge 

E.                  BEADS as Picot Gauge

IV. Stitches as Picot Gauge – length and height

Recap / conclusion

References

¯¯¯¯¯

During the course of my research, many good friends helped with their own insights, though not everything was included in the final article. This post is to share this new information rather than repeat what’s in the article.

Historically, a pin was used to measure the picot loops. “Tatting. Edgings and Insertions”, Mlle Riego de la Branchardiere, 1861.

‘A Pearl Loop – After the number of double stitches are worked as directed, the thread which forms the loop round the hand is passed over the pin, invented for the purpose, facilitates the work.’

Since a pin has a circular cross-section, there is no vertical/horizontal dilemma here. The number of times one wraps the picot thread around it can alter the size of a finished picot.

This same technique is used by Jon Yusoff on modern gauges for extra long picots! The collage above shows how to measure a 10cm picot using a 2cm gauge.

¯¯¯¯¯

Bonnie Swank (through Anita Barry) sent me her description derived from “The Art of Tatting”, Lady Hoare, 1910, page 20. 

“Pinching the ring and shuttle threads together then tatting the double stitch and sliding the new double stitch next to the previous double stitch.
This is a horizontal method of making the picot without a gauge.”

Lady Hoare suggests ‘leaving about the eighth of an inch of thread on both loop and shuttle threads….’ This is what we refer to as eyeballing.

¯¯¯¯¯

An elementary and universal method is to employ

the stitches themselves as a picot gauge.

If a gauge is not available, the stitches themselves can act as a gauge. Even beads can be used for measurement if size is known. The advantage of using one’s own tatted stitches as a gauge is that it accommodates all types & sizes of threads as well as individual difference in tension.

I used the height of a picot-in-the-making to estimate the size of central picot and arrived at the following thumb rule. Jane McLellan stepped in with trials, experiments and feedback to confirm the rule.

A thumb rule for measuring the central picot

around which rings will be linked :

1ds width for each ring.

(± half stitch to account for individual differences)

¯¯¯¯¯

While technically not a picot, it is a different way of using a picot gauge. Jeanie Schekel, in her unpublished book, calls it a folded picot gauge ideal for bare thread tatting and mignonette. She shared her images and also these video links –  Double picot gauge by needledreams and this video by mytattingplace which also shows how to get uniform half-closed rings.

¯¯¯¯¯

Coretta Loughmiller sent me many pics of the BTS and Picot Tool being used. Now this stepped tool, at first glance, defies the vertical/horizontal position. However the detailed markings of length and directional arrows helps us understand how to hold and use the gauge to measure either the height or the length of the picot thread and also bare thread. Gloria Nelson, the designer & manufacturer of this compact efficient tool, has been most gracious in our communication, even offering to send in more pics.
Such markings are a good way to avoid any confusion and communicate clearly - whichever gauge a designer uses.

¯¯¯¯¯

Martha Ess’ sliding gauge is ideal for graduated picots. She graciously gave me permission to use any of the photos and instructions!

¯¯¯¯¯

I’d like to sincerely thank each and everyone mentioned 

for prompt and enthusiastic help – over and above my expectations !  

And I cannot thank Robin & Georgia enough! 

Robin Perfetti has helped proof the multiple drafts carefully and offered valuable feedback/suggestions. Some of the words, thoughts & of course images, are hers. 

Georgia Seitz has provided us with a wonderful platform and opportunity to reach a wide audience through Bellaonline and her Online Tatting Class.

Part 2 present and past

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continued from Part 1 - Ikuta's Picots on a Chain

Here is the second part of the tat-along exercise on Method 3 of Ikuta’s Picots.

But besides this, there is something wonderfully interesting at the end !

After the 1^st exercise, we now have some understanding of how each picot effect looks (layered and overlapping) and how it is constructed on a chain. The same basic principle follows for the ring.

IKUTA’S PICOT EFFECTS ON RINGS

PART 2 of tat-along exercise

A ring, unlike the chain, is a closed loop, increasing the difficulty a bit. Yet, we can still identify the commonalities between the chain and ring arrangement, as shown in the combined picture below. 

On the left is the chain which we have already made ; on the right is how the elements for a ring will be laid out.

In the ring,

1. think of the ring loop as the blue scrap thread of chain
2. yellow scrap thread remains the same - a chain thread
3. the blue shuttle thread in ring replaces the red core/shuttle thread in chain

For the sake of continuity, clarity, and comparison, the same 2 visible colours have been used. 
The red core thread of chain has been replaced by the SH1 blue thread.

ALL TATTING IS DONE BY THE BLUE SHUTTLE 1 THREAD, ALTERNATING BETWEEN THE RING LOOP (blue) AND THE CHAIN THREAD (yellow)

The above picture shows how we can loop and hold the threads taut. Holding the threads in this manner, we can work alternately on the ring loop and the chain thread without having to drop & pick repeatedly.  

Personally, I had to drop the ring loop when making the yellow stitches, since I am used to wrapping chain thread very loosely once around the pinkie. So, do whatever is comfortable. (Please read related discussion on how to construct below)

To start each part of this tutorial, make a ring loop with SH1 blue thread, 

and attach SH2 yellow thread to the base.   

We will follow the same sequence as in Part 1, starting with the easier layered effect.
Download my previous pictorial on Ikuta's Picots (Method 3) for tips and suggestions on how to start & end a ring, how to connect, and much more.  

V. Layered Picots on a Ring

As the term suggests, the picots are in two distinct layers, just as we saw in the chains in Part 1 of the tat-along. This is in Section V (page 8) of my pictorial pdf 

These picots do not require a 2^nd shuttle (unless using 2 colours) and can be replaced with a ball and single shuttle, without cutting off the thread, ie. by continuous thread method.  

Start as shown in Pic 21, and make 3DS on the ring loop with the blue SH1. 

Leave yellow picot space & make 3DS chain with yellow stitches. 

(this was termed 'chain segment' in my pdf) 

Keep yellow SH2 to the left, pick up the ring loop, leave blue picot space & tat 3DS . 

(this was termed ring segment in my pdf)

Again wrap yellow SH2 thread around pinkie, leave picot space & tat 3DS , as in pic 22.

Repeat these alternate blue and yellow segments till end. Close ring.

Notice the placement/layering of picots : each picot is separate, but yellow picots lie in front or above, and the blue picots lie behind throughout the ring.

These colours can be switched. So how about a bit of homework before we proceed further ?

homework : 
For practice, make another ring, but this time have blue SH1 picots lie above & the yellow SH2 picots lie below. Compare with previous ring. 

And for the sake of interest, let’s turn the previous ring over to see how it looks from the back side ....

The colours are switched ! But the homework is to tat this colour effect so that it lies in front.

Just playing around .... the central ring has only 1DS separating the picots. 

Thinking of an aster, in the right colours, of course ?! So many tatted flowers are possible !!!

And here, all I've done is added a normal picot in the center of each segment. 

Each segment between the overlapping picots is [2DS,p,2DS].

I will continue and conclude this tutorial with the overlapping picots (Method 3) with both over-under & under-over overlapping picots. There will also be a comparison with Daisy Picots.

DISCUSSION

Techniques

how to construct ?

With reference to the wrapping of the ring & chain threads, this paragraph was included on p9 :

"Some experienced tatters have compared Ikuta Picots with Shuttle Brothers’ Alternate Thread tatting or AT Rings technique from their book “Tatting Alternate Threads”. Gina Butler’s video for Alternate Thread Wrap is inspired by this technique & is a practical way of holding both threads in position : 

Mituko Ikuta’s book “Shuttle Lace - Tatting & Bead Tatting 3” was published in the late 1990s & 

Shuttle Brothers’ published their book in 2009.

I do not possess either book, hence am not qualified to determine."

BUT , instructions for this construction have been around for a century and a half !!!   Mlle Riego, in her 1868 book "Raised Tatting Book", details how to use the ring and chain thread to make layered picots, all facing the same side (p10). She has a beautiful star insertion pattern (pp10-12) using picots of differing lengths. 

This is my first practice trial, following her instructions only for the ring. The lower flower is seen from the back side. I will be tatting the entire pattern as a sampler.


is this pearl tatting ? 

Instead of a direct answer to the question asked in Part 1, to which a few answers have been ventured, let me first delineate what I consider the characteristics of Pearl Tatting.

As I understand it, pearl (perle) tatting has 5 main characteristics :

1. picots or perles or pearls
2. multiple threads
3. core thread slides freely
4. double-sided tatting ("double pearl")
5. encapsulation (implied in #2) usually with reverse stitch (direct tatting/wrapped/unflipped stitches)

Some of these conditions are essential and basic to pearl tatting, while others are merely a ‘by-lane’ - one of many paths to reach the destination. It is these by-lanes that lead to variations (& confusion !).

Let us examine each characteristic in relation to the layered picots ... 

# 1 - yes, picots are definitely present.
# 2 - In a chain we were clearly using 3 threads. And as the comparison picture (2nd pic from top) shows, the same reasoning can be applied when tatting the ring. So yes, we are tatting over 2 threads.
# 3 - yes, the core thread slides freely.
# 4 - no, all stitches and picots face the same direction - all are on one side. 

# 5 - encapsulation exists, but so far in the tutorial direct tatting or reverse stitch (RS) is not used. However, in the overlapping picots to be tackled in Part 3 (which are the "real" method 3 of Ikuta's Picots), we Can use direct tatting in the chain segments. Refer to Sec II - Using DS-RS & under-over picots on p.4 of my pictorial pdf. 
On the other hand, Mlle Riego also does not use direct tatting in her 1867 "Pearl Tatting Book". She works pearl tatting (or pearl beading) by reversing work for each segment worked with the extra shuttle(s) or worked on the other multiple thread(s).
So this direct tatting feature of pearl tatting can easily be considered as "optional".

Based on the above, is this form of one-sided or "single pearl" not a variation of pearl tatting, with picots & stitches all facing the same direction instead of opposite directions ?
Your verdict ?

For those who do not attend Georgia's Online Tatting Class, I will talk a bit about how the name "Ikuta's Picots" came about. 

Many thanks 

to Eliz Davis for her valuable feedback on the comparison pic ;

to Judith Connors for patiently guiding me, which includes leading me 

to the wonderful world of Mlle Riego's tatting ; 

to Georgia Seitz for introducing me to these beautiful picot effects ;

and to all tatters who have shown an interest in this tutorial.

to be continued

Related posts : Part 1 - Ikuta's Picots on a Chain

Ikuta's Picots Method 3 Pictorial

The first post