3 colour Cluny tatting

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In the 2-Colour Cluny we worked with 3 threads – one on the loom and 2 for weaving. I showed how to add & hide the 3^rd thread, how to alternate the 2-colour weave, and how to avoid colour blips when closing. We now move to 4 threads where 3 will be used for weaving. Since they are all different colours, we get 3-coloured stripes or bands on the Cluny leaf.

These pics were also taken last December. I discarded an entire set of pics for the 3-colour Cluny (3-CC), and re-photographed with more comprehensive steps, but have included 2 from that batch here. That first 3-CC is the one just before the split ring in some of the pics.

If I were to tat a 3-CC now, I would definitely follow Edwige’s first step which I called ‘hitch the loom’ to remove the blip at the bottom of my tallies. 

Three-Colour Cluny Leaf

(4 threads and 3-coloured striped Cluny leaf)

Try different number of passes or wraps for a banded or graduated effect. eg. in the collage above, the pendant is a hanging Cluny where I started with 2 wraps of each colour twice, then narrowed the stripes to 1 wrap each. A crystal bead had been strung on the loom earlier, between Warp1 & Warp3 (ie. the top loop).

Choose any order of weaving, place 2 colours on the left and 1 on right, and so on. Lots of possibilities!

I have used a card loom. But choose a loom of your choice - the principle & concept remains the same. 

Refer to basic Cluny colour variation pictorial for any missing details.

Loom/Warp thread : mustard 

Weaving threads   : Colour 1 on the right – green;

                  Colour 2 on the left – pink ;

                  Colour 3 on the right – yellow.

Sequence of weaving : green, pink, yellow.

1 wrap/weave = 2 passes (across Warps and back to starting side)

 1. Wind the loom as usual, with 3 Warps, using mustard thread.

One 3-CC has already been made, followed by a split ring. 

Pink is hidden within the left side & yellow on the right side of the split ring.

I have threaded the weaving threads. Tapestry needle works well, but shuttles are fine, too.

TIP : Place the needle(s) on a flat surface when not in use, to avoid tangling.

 

2. Move green and yellow to the right – Under, Over.

NOTE : In order to avoid any colour blip, hitch the loom with the colour of your choice. 

(not done here, unfortunately)

3. All positioned, we are now ready to weave.

 

4. Move green to the left for 1^st pass (Under, Over, Under) …

 

To add new thread: This is the stage where new thread can be added. In case of my first tally, I had to add yellow colour. The collage shows how I trapped the new thread within the first green pass. The tail can then be lined along/parallel to Warp2 or Warp3 to hide, and snipped after a bit of weaving. See adding new thread options here -

5. and back to the right for 2^nd pass (Over, Under, Over).

1 wrap/weave complete.

 

6. With pink thread -

1^st pass to the right (Under, Over, Under) …

 7. and back to the left (Over, Under, Over).

1 pink wrap made.

Keep packing down the weaves.

 

8. With yellow thread, keeping it above the green –

1^st pass to the left (Under, Over, Under) …

 

9. and back to the right (Over, Under, Over).

1 yellow wrap made.

3 wraps made so far, one in each colour.

 

10. Start with green again, keeping it ABOVE the yellow.

TIP : Leave some slack along the edge, enough to span the 2 coloured wraps before it comes into play again. Pulling it too close will distort the tally edge.

 

11. Repeat steps 4 to 9 to desired size, shaping the Cluny leaf along the way.

 

12. To hide colour blip :

Insert all 3 needles through the top loop from below….

 

13. … threads are emerging out through the top loop now

 

14. To close tally - 

Remove top loop and start pulling Warp2 downwards till the loop disappears completely.

Notice how all 3 colours are emerging from the top, covering/hiding the mustard loom thread. 

For the next element, we can easily pick the colour we want to show.

 

If we skip step #12, this is what happens (tally on right in pic) – In my first 3-colour tally I forgot to pass the green thread through top loop before closing. That thread emerges from the right side, making it untidy and leaving some mustard blip.

 

15. Slip the bottom loop off the loom and pull Warp2 upwards to close it.

 

16. One 3-Colour Cluny leaf complete!

See the tiny mustard blip on the right side of tally base? 

This is the blip that hitching the loom prevents! 

My pictorials show only the basic Cluny leaf being worked in colours. But as I pointed out at the start, this colouring of a Cluny leaf works just as well for a hanging Cluny leaf, a Split Cluny or a broad Cluny (which will be the next in this 2018 Cluny tatting series). 

As a reminder, here’s a throwback pic of my trials shared here. Most of these are hanging Cluny leaves. I was trying to get the 'hang' of coloured Cluny tatting!

All my Cluny Tatting pictorials are listed here.

...series to be continued

colouring the Cluny

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The current Cluny tatting series has covered how to wind the loom and weave tallies where the loom and weaving threads are either the same colour or different colours. For many more tips, ideas, and possibilities, refer to my earlier series and posts.

We now come to the original purpose of this series – multicolour Cluny leaves or tallies – a glimpse of which you saw here last year.

As usual, let’s go progressively… 2-coloured Cluny tatting. For 2 colours to show on a tally, we will actually need 3 threads – 1 for the loom which is hidden, and 2 for the stripes that are visible.

Adding more threads allows us opportunity to play with colours for the next Cluny leaf or element(s) in a pattern.

I chose to work on a cardboard loom, weaving with a tapestry needle especially when using multiple colours. The process itself is simple, but some management of threads is required as we increase colours (threads). If we choose a flat surface to place our loom while weaving, and lay the unwanted thread on the side, it avoids tangling and weaving can be done comfortably.

To repeat – this same method works on a box loom ; and in any pattern a split ring can be substituted with a regular tally/petal/leaf, and a normal ring with a hanging Cluny leaf.

• How to add new thread (knotless method)
• How to hide tail of new thread
• How to avoid the colour blip from loom thread

  

Two-Colour Cluny Tatting

(3 threads and 2-coloured striped Cluny leaf)

Loom/Warp thread - mustard ;

Weaving threads – Colour 1 on the right – green; Colour 2 on the left – pink

Sequence of weaving : green, pink. Colours alternate after each wrap/weave, giving a striped appearance.

You can try different visual effects: from regular stripes to broader bands to random, and from broad to hanging Cluny leaves.

Refer to basic Cluny colour variation pictorial for any missing details.

1. The previous element (split ring) already has 2 colours – mustard and green. 

We will add a 3^rd thread (pink) while weaving the tally.

Wind the loom as usual, with 3 Warps.

Bring green to the right (Under, Over) and leave pink on the left side.

2. Make 1 pass to the left with green (Under, Over, Under),

place pink over the green ….

(as mentioned in previous post, you can choose your own style of weaving)

 3. … and make the return pass to the right (Over, Under, Over), trapping the pink within. 

Leave a pink tail to be hidden later. 

 4. Snug and tamp down the weaves before proceeding.

Notice the new thread is captured within on the left side.

5. With pink thread, move to the right (Under, Over, Under) …

Scroll to end for 2 ways to hide this new tail. 

 6. … and back to the left (Over, Under, Over)

7. Pick up green and move to left (Under, Over, Under), and return to the right.

8. Similarly, make another weave with pink moving to the right and back to left.

9. Continue, alternating the colours as desired, and shaping the tally as you go.

This tally has 15 wraps and threads are back in their original position.

10. Pass both needles through the top loop, back to front.

 11. Both threads are through the top loop. This will hide the loom thread colour.

12. Top loop pulled off the loom and start closing the tally.

13. Top and bottom loops of the loom are closed.

14. One 2-Colour tally made.

To hide tail of new thread :

Needle the tail and weave it through the back of the tally. 

If we weave under the green thread, then the tail will not be visible at all. 

Snip off excess.

See also tip #12 for hiding tails here and Dagmar’s video here. : In pic #5 above, fold the tail behind to align with Warp1. Then, weave as normal, incorporating/encapsulating this tail within. After a few wraps, the excess tail can be snipped off. 

Next in this series is a 3-coloured broad Cluny leaf (4 Warps), and hopefully a practice pattern for these 2-coloured tallies.

The only 2- or 3-coloured Cluny tatting I have come across is by the talented and prolific Dagmar Pezzuto. In both cases, she has worked hanging Cluny petals or leaves. The principle remains the same. You can find all her Cluny patterns through Georgia’s site here.

All my Cluny Tatting pictorials are listed here.

… to be continued

Broadening our Horizons

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Broadening our Horizons !

I have been reworking this post countless times, & still not satisfied :-(. Fact is, after all stepwise pics were taken & notated, and the post drafted, I figured out an easier way of closing multi-Warp looms/tallies. So took more pics & notated those, too. However, there seemed to be a lot of confusion because I couldn’t sync the earlier & latter sets together. Posting as separate sections would increase length and redundancy . This unhappiness made me procrastinate for many days, till I decided to take a fresh set of photos of the entire process in one go. So far so good. But then Another option to make 4-Warp frame loomed on my restless brain ! Had to take pics & notate those as well. Ultimately, the number of pics was still too large, causing me to compile them in 2 separate pdf files – for Warp 4 & Warp 5 Cluny tatting. Please excuse my mistakes or omissions.

So here it is – my way of making the multiple-veined Cluny leaves , with an additional step …

“What seems to be the problem, Scotty ?!”

Most tutorials on Cluny tatting, irrespective of the loom, tell you to remove all the loops after the tally is complete, move the loom shuttle & weaving shuttle aside, identify the right thread to pull, & then start to close each loop in sequence.

This is not too difficult in a Warp 3 loom where only 2 loops need to be closed. However, as the Warps increase, the loops tend to overlap with each other when the loom is being set up . The loop made first also needs to be closed first. But later loops/thread get stacked over it, and need to be placed aside before closing can start. Hence, at closing time, there can be a lot of confusion if one removes all the loops and Then starts to close each.  Shivers!

Battleground Closure ... just before actual battle !

.... and this is when I have pinned down all the loops for taking a decent photo without harming the tally. Imagine trying to keep them all in their place, closing one at a time, trying to identify which thread to pull, all this while holding on to the tally in one hand !!! Violent jitters & shivers !

 "What are we looking at, a 20th century Rome?" 

-- Kirk (Bread and Circuses)

“All fixed now, Cap’n”

As they say, a step(!) in time …. Turns out, all it requires is ‘One Small Step’ ‘Behind the Scenes’ where the Space Shuttle passes under the horizontal bar/loop! 

A Warp 5 loom from front

This is the usual way loops would be stacked

This is how the loops should be stacked !

Why ? The reason lies in the Sequence with which each loop is closed. In earlier figure, one can easily see that the loop which needs to be closed 1^st is ‘blocked’ by the next loop which is stacked over it ! While closing this loop, the others will get in the way.

So, if one has to start closing, one will have to first pull off loop EF to get to AB. But EF is ‘blocked’ by I ! So here’s the messy path : remove I , then remove EF, only Then start to close AB, while the former flop about. Shivers violently !

And it becomes quite loopy – loops flopping about, messy, confusing, tendency to knot/twist. 

"Just before they went into warp, I beamed the whole kit and kaboodle 

into their engine room, where they'll be no tribble at all." 

-- Scotty, explaining how he got rid of the tribbles (The Trouble With Tribbles) 

One Small Step behind the scenes !

Here is the step , shown on a Warp 3 loom (translucent sheet used as loom to show path)

This extra step can be effectively applied to normal 2-veined (Warp 3) tallies as seen in the pics above. In a finger loom, however, for Warp 3 it may be prudent not to, since the AB loop across middle & ring finger acts as a kind of support for the central Warp. However, as number of Warps increase, it is advisable to take this extra step.

“Lt. Uhura, co-ordinates of the flight path, please”

As mentioned in my earlier posts, this card loom is designed by Judith Connors. I have only increased the number of slits at the top & bottom to include more Warps. Also, the same loom came in handy while making the hanging cluny leaf & split cluny. Please note, the concept remains the same ; any loom, Including Finger Loom, will perform the same function .. I just happen to have used this first & am really happy with it.

• So now, the adapted loom has 5 slits on the top edge & 4 slits at the bottom. One slit at the right side to anchor the loom shuttle/ball thread (The shuttle can also be anchored behind the last slit it exits as shown in Tip #2 here , or in any of the empty slits or on the slit in the right side.
• The top edge has 1 extra slit on left side where the 1^st Warp starts. The bottom slits can be synced to the top, or be closer together in a converging fashion at the center of base edge. Simply cut the additional slits parallel to the existing ones (if inserted in the same original slits, there will be a great deal of overlapping & messiness when closing).
• Loom thread moves vertically in the front , & horizontally at the back.
• Vertical movement in front forms the Warps & is indicated by capital letters.
• Horizontal movement at back forms the loop & is indicated by small letters.
• Sequence of letters from A, B, C, … & so on indicates the direction & sequence that the loom Shuttle will follow. Thus SH2 goes in through the slit at A & comes out at B ; goes down to C & up through  D, and so on for the number of Warps required.

One can work out the sequence for ANY kind of tally, once the concept becomes clear &/or some practice is under one’s belt. Just try to figure out the sequence of loop closure (eg. when I pull this, that loop closes & so on), & that will give you an idea of where the threads will emerge after tally is closed – will it become a regular tally (both threads emerge at top), a hanging tally (both thread emerge at base), a split cluny (one thread emerging at either end), or a 3- or 4-veined tally.

• The Warps should remain taut/tensioned. This serves 2 purposes : 1. to keep the weaving even & consistent ; 2. to pull up the top edge of the card, so that there is plenty of space to pass shuttle to & fro for weaving. (this lift can be inferred from the shadows thrown by the Warp threads in many pics)

TIP : If any Warp comes a bit loose, it can be tightened easily by tugging at the thread segment that follows immediately after it ….on till the anchoring point. 

This is only One way of making the Warps. A Craftree member & I simultaneously figured out how to make a 4-Warp tally, but by looping the Warps differently ! I haven’t tried the other, but what I like about my method is that the initial looping remains Constant irrespective of how many Warps one wants. Hence much easier to remember – both while making the frame, while weaving, as well as while closing the tally.

For purposes of brevity, I have set up the stepwise pictorial (& instructions) for each in separate pdf files . The pictorial shows steps required for setting up the loom (including the extra small step, along with simultaneous views of the back), & then the sequence to close the tally after weaving.

“Mr Sulu, Warp four straight ahead, please”

WARP  FOUR (gives a 3-veined tally)

Version 1

Version 2 

Click to download Cluny Tatting on a Warp Four Loom (both versions). The tutorial includes step-by-step pictures, as well as instructions on Setting up the Warp 4 loom,  Weaving & equally important , the Ckosing pathway !

My very 1st Warp 4 tally was a Split Cluny (which I didn't even of then!) , with the loom & weaving threads emerging at opposite ends. I didn't jot down that sequence, but have recently made a Hanging Warp 4/3-veined Cluny leaf. Sharing the WIP photo  (it is not include in the pdf).

TIP : If one is using a finger loom for multiple Warp tallies, I would suggest using 2 different coloured paper clips one on each of the 2 base loops. This will help in identifying which loop belongs to which Warps, when closing time arrives.

‘Mr Sulu, Warp 5 full speed ahead’

WARP  FIVE (gives a 4-veined tally)

I used a translucent plastic sheet for this loom, so that the shuttle movement behind the scenes can be captured easily. However, not recommended for actual Cluny tatting, since the slits are pretty sharp & do not allow easy adjustment of Warp tension, etc.

TIP : One can start weaving a tally from Any Warp, not necessarily the extreme left one. Merely keep the under-over movement in mind. The above photo shows the tally at Warp 3 & SH1 under Warp 4, over Warp 5.  With SH1 now at extreme right, start normal weaving)

Click to download Cluny Tatting On a Warp Five Loom  Includes complete tutorial on loom/frame, weaving,  and closing sequence. 

Why Increase the Warps ?  

Out of curiosity & a challenge initially ! It is one way of  broadening/widening the tally, but keeping the inter-vein distance short, even & constant. The additional veins also impart their own beauty & fineness. 

Multiple Warps become essential for creating various shapes & effects of tallies, too (something I will discuss/show in my last post, along with many little tips & tricks)

HIDING  TAIL  ENDS

In case one needs to hide thread tails within a tally, it can be done as shown in the collage. The shift from one Warp to the other after a few weaves ensures that the tail gets locked in. I learnt this when in my earlier attempt here, if I pulled at the ‘hidden’ tail, it could still slide ! However, by shifting, the tail becomes secure. After snipping closely, it is not visible at all. 

(While testing, I kept tugging, thus leaving a telltale crossover in the front. My mistake.)

Heartiest thanks to All those wonderful tatters who shared their 

bounty of knowledge & skills with us. 

Where would we be without them – no lift off possible !!!

Related Posts : 12 Cluny Tatting Tips

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