“…where no man has gone before”
Okay, I may be exaggerating
here, true to ‘form’ ;-P But I have yet to
come across tallies other than oval/spindle & long tallies. Safe to say
that few tatters have gone this route.
Generally one comes across
tallies that have 3 raised & 2 indented lengths (2 veins), made on a 3-Warp
loom. It is also Oval or spindle-shaped. However, this is merely the beginning
& the loom is our means “…to explore new worlds…”. Let the Shuttleship
cruise over the Strings at Warp speed “…to seek out new…” shapes , forms, &
effects … “…to boldly go where no man
has gone before!”
As you are well aware, my execution is never up to the
mark. But I do hope the ideas shared here can be a launching pad for your
countdown to new horizons .
Playing with Shapes, Forms, & Effects
in Cluny
Tatting
The tally is no longer
a statistical mark, it is now a ‘Cluny’ing glory !
Multiple (4/5/or more) Warp
tallies are better suited for the angular effects, as well as to create many
other shapes & effects. They offer more scope to play around with shapes. For
Warp 4 & Warp 5 tallies, please refer my previous post &/or download the tutorials.
REGULAR GEOMETRIC SHAPES
(Polygons)
I started a tally-only
bracelet with the sole intention of playing with different shapes & forms.
And since I wanted to try out geometric shapes, I named it the GeomeTATic
bracelet/rakhi. As I made them, I became a bit better at managing the shape by
using little tricks, etc.
I. Flat Base/Tip Tallies
Eg. rectangle, square,
triangle, hourglass, bowtie, hexagon, ‘inverted’ triangle, right angled
triangles, ..
The base & tip of a tally
can be made flat with relative ease.
1. For flat base, keep the
end Warps separated during the 1st few weaves. Pack down & the
shape will stay. Similarly, for a wide ‘tip’, keep the end Warps at a distance
when finishing off the weaving. The distance between the end Warps will depend
on the width one desires.
2. Most importantly, when
closing – keep the tally in a firm pinch/‘clench’ & DO NOT over-pull the
closing loops. Tally edges have a natural tendency to curve when closing.
Pulling too tight will change a rectangle or square into a barrel. Hence pull
just enough to close all loops yet keep the ends flat & corners neat &
angular.
II. Angular Tallies
Eg. pentagon, hexagon,
octagon, kite, diamond, Christmas tree,
Geometric shapes include
angles ‘along the sides’. Some, such as a diamond, kite, or even a triangle are
fairly easy to make by adjusting the Warp distance during weaving.
It is the pentagon, hexagon,
octagon that I found troublesome; the angles tend to curve.
Problem solved by use of Slip
Knots in smaller sized thread. I used size 40 white thread slip knots.
To make it easier, after the
frame is ready (Warps are laid), make the slip knots & attach them to the
required Warps, usually the extreme ones. When the need arises for an angle,
simply bring the slip knot down to that point & continue weaving. After
tally is finished , hold the knot threads on either side & give a tug
outwards in order to pull out the angle slightly. Then cut off the knots.
I was successful in getting a good angular pentagon
& hexagon, but failed with octagon, although another attempt/practice might
have proved successful.
NOTE :
Penta- & hexagons require 1 slip knot at each of the end Warps; Octagon
requires 2 at each end Warp.
3D TALLIES
III. 3D tally with bead .
As used in Star Anise Studs here .
This is a fairly easy, very
basic application of both bead & Cluny
tatting. Load beads on any shuttle. Make
a tally. Bring bead forward before starting the next tally. When 2nd
tally is closed, Lock Join at base of 1st tally to get a 3D effect.
IV. Tally with Tatted Beads
This is still in a very
nascent stage – just an idea I played with. It could perhaps work for a cactus,
or tiny buds on a grass lawn !
Inspired by Ninetta’s tiny tatted beads. I didn’t
quite get the effect I had visualized, but then I was using size 20 thread.
However, sharing the potential & possibilities …
Collage.
Tat the beads on Weaver
thread, spaced out, before weaving the tally (I made them after I’d already started the tally!). Each ‘bead’ is
a ring of 3ds. Try Josephine knots for a better effect. Continue normal weaving
& close as usual
V. Curled Cluny
Leaves Warp 3.
Remember Ninetta’s Curled Rings ? If rings can be curled, why not tallies ?
Here’s the process & result …
VI. Curled Cluny
Leaf with Bead within
A) Hold bead on long loop of
Weaver shuttle in center of tally (notice half tally has been woven already);
B) hold with paper clip (safety
pin used in pic) ;
C) when closing, position the
bead, pass SH1 through loop over bead And through the base loop & pull
close as for curled tally.
FREEFORM SHAPES & EFFECTS
VII. Freestyle Leaf
In a normal Warp 3 loom, by
merely adjusting the space between end Warps, one can create an uneven edge. A
classic spindle/oval tally is made with an inverted triangle for base, a square
or rectangle for centre/body, topped by another triangle. Play with the weave
counts or the Warp distance, add more weaves to taper the tip, & one can get a
more natural leaf-like form. The ‘3D’ tallies in the Star Anise studs above,
are also made in similar fashion, hence no 2 tallies are identical.
The collage includes images
from my 2-in-1 Wiosna Doily & Frauberger Bookmark tail (in size 40)
. The central purple one is 3-veined (made on a Warp 4 loom).
All these images are from my very first attempts at Cluny tatting & need
a lot of refining.
The same technique can be
used to make a matka
(earthenware pot) or a fish !!! (matka
in lead photocollage. If the base is tapered, it can become a Fish !)
VIII. Split-end / Uneven tip Petal
(Same technique repeated for Arrow
…)
I wanted a split-end petal
for a particular flower I had in mind to tat later. Would it be possible with a
multi-Warp tally ?
A while back, Teri Dusenbury had advised me to “make
copious notes”. I try. I start off with gusto, then get so involved in the
tatting (or circumstantial interferences) that I forget to jot down the latter
portions, relying on my Excellent memory ! Yeah, it Always fails me ;-P Happened
yet again. I had very quick sketchy thoughts
mingled with notes of the trials, hence had to rework in order to confirm
before posting.
The images show all my
efforts on this front. Please refer here for Warp 5 loom & weaving (download free tutorial pdf)
Trial A. Warp 5 loom. Stop 1st
pass (right to left direction) at Warp 3
& continue weaving between Warps 5, 4, & 3. Close as usual.
Failed – the long tip on
right curled inwards.
Trial B. Not quite sure what
I did here, except perhaps to close the tally less tightly than before.
Failed – I did get a stepped
effect (another experiment ?!) but not a good ‘split’.
Trial C. Make a reverse
stitch on the middle Warp where the split begins.
Failed – Still did not
address the length of Warp threads across. Au contraire, made them more
prominent.
Trial D. Finally wondered
whether ‘splitting the closing’ of loops would be possible. So, at the split
point, I pulled down loop 1 (at ‘C’) to close ‘AB’. Left it at that &
continued weaving on the remaining 3 Warps (3, 4, 5). It worked !
Trial E. Confirmation of
Trial D because I hadn’t jotted this
final trial down. Shown from front
as well as back – no thread spaces visible & a clear uneven/split tip seen
!!!
IX. “Rolling Lattice Leaf”
Combining Cluny tatting with Roll tatting can give a
lattice effect !
A Warp 5 frame was used since
I was working with size 20 thread & needed space for the lattice to show. Between
each roll tatted segment, I made 3 passes with weaver thread to bring shuttle
to opposite side. (2 passes make 1 weave. Refer table here)
TIP : After each
rolling segment, suspend the weaver shuttle to untwist.
(Another idea to try :
Make only 2 passes/1 weave between roll tatting segments, thus bringing weaver
shuttle back to same side each time. It should create an open fan or peacock
feather shape! But closing this uneven tally would probably pose a problem)
In latest trial, on a Warp 5
loom, Only 1 pass was made after each roll tatting segment, bringing the
SH1/weaver shuttle to opposite end. I got a 3D open lattice leaf when closed!
X. Rolling Cluny
Braid/Vine
But is roll tatting possible
on the central Warp(s) too?
This time, on a Warp 3 frame,
after every 3 passes, roll tatting was done consecutively on each Warp. I was trying for a 3D braid/vine effect .
XI. Hanging & Split Tallies on Warp 4.
Bead within a Heart - 3D effect
When I tried my very 1st
Warp 4 tally, the threads came out at opposite ends ! (see inset) I thought it
was a mistake, but as later research showed, it was actually a Split Cluny, but
3-veined !
Along the lines of the normal
Warp 3 frame, one can figure out how to make Split & Hanging Cluny leafs in
multi-Warp looms, too.
In image, I have used a Warp
4 Hanging tally on left side, placed a bead in the SH1 shuttle thread in center
& made another Warp 4 tally on the right side, thus encapsulating the pearl
between the 2 leaves. (HCL was required
to bring both threads to base; normal tally brought the threads back up;
auxiliary weaving thread for HCL was hidden within the right tally). And
both tallies are shaped like a Snake
Charmer’s flute : long narrow ends & broad circular centre.
TIP : When
making narrow ends, as in the flute (been/pungi)
above, keep them short. Otherwise closing the tally, especially if made on a 4
or 5 Warp loom, becomes quite difficult.
XII. Padded Tally
This was just a thought –
using multiple threads for each Warp of the loom – would it affect the look,
thickness of the tally? It didn’t alter the look by much.
But it has potential in
another application : 3-SHUTTLE TATTING & encapsulation !
If working with 3
colours/shuttles, one can hide the nonworking thread within the tally just as
one did for hiding the tail within tally here) but All 3 threads will emerge at the same/desired point, And keep the
veins balanced !
Thumb Rule : When
using the same thread, the number of ds in a ring = number of weaves in a tally
, to achieve same size.
Therefore a 16ds ring (8-8, or 4-4-4-4, …) can be
substituted with a 16 weave tally leaf !
FACTORS that may affect shape, form, appearance
·
distance between Warps
(slim/narrow or broad)
·
number of
weaves/wraps (short or long)
·
tautness of
weaves/wraps (loose or tight) – can affect appearance, width, & shape, as
well as closing the loom.
·
density of
weaves/wraps (closely or loosely packed down) – can affect appearance, especially
margins when loom is closed.
·
number of Warps
(width)
·
thickness/size of
thread for loom in HCT (width or central vein, if thicker thread used)
·
moving the outer Warp
threads while weaving can alter the shape, width, etc. giving unconventional,
freeform leaves.
·
Position of tally
on artificial loom : low down (pointy tips & slimmer tally) / midways
(ideal for classic tally shape) / high up (broad base & body)
·
I discovered that
thread plays a really important role here. A smooth sliding thread makes it easier
to close tallies, especially with multiple Warps.
My experimentation , though incomplete, halts here for the
present. I still have to try out 2-coloured tallies.
Dagmar Pezzuto has some intriguing patterns & techniques that I
will try out at some future time.
I thank you, my readers, for your patience in reading
through (if you have ;-P) … hope you found the ideas interesting ….
A few more resources :
Patty Dowden’s Tips on Shaping Cluny Leaves
Cinzia Gabrielli's Coloured Hanging Clunies … diagrams & instructions
Dagmar Pezzuto's Cluny Petal Tatting in Two Colours.
Pattern using 2-coloured Cluny tatting … downloaded. Uses 3 shuttles – 2 with same colour, one with different
colour.
Related Posts : Cluny Tatting Tips
Wow, muskaan, the sky's the limit!! I especially like the lattice effect. Certainly are a lot of possibilities here.
ReplyDeleteNew horizons, new worlds, Jane ;-) Hope you are inspired to carry forward the exploration some time in future ?
DeleteThank you for your unstinting support always :-)
I too like the lattice effect it lacy!
ReplyDeleteYes, Carollyn, the lattice is kinda nice with loads of possibilities & applications . This is just a glimpse, isn’t it :-)
DeleteDear muskaan...Wow! you have a great imagination, and I find it inspiring. This is a lot of work and I thank you for sharing with us what you've been learning.
ReplyDeleteJust as you mentioned to me in a prior comment: "it is addictive, isn't it?" I totally agree, as I've been practicing with cluny a bunch, but I've been trying to make them as even in length and width as possible, getting upset at times when they don't turn out the way I want them too :(
After seeing your pics of free form I realized that they look just as great, and they can be used in many ways.
I am still using my little method posted on craftree. Now that my little girl will start school, I am hoping I could find sometime to put in practice your tips :)
Thank you so much again.
Laura
Your work is always so perfect, Laura ! I can no longer see fine working (the errors show up under a magnifier or in the photo!) so have made my peace with the imperfections.
DeleteMy focus is more on freeform & 3D tatting – I love the freedom it offers !
I made a brief reference to the other method of framing a Warp 4 loom in my previous post (I will add your name now, with your permission) … there are So many paths one can choose from or ‘invent’ oneself so there is no One correct path ! It is exciting to discover these different paths to same destination :-)
muskaan: Thank you for your kind words and encouragement :)
DeleteI can't wait in the near future to be able to sit down for a couple of hours and practice more.
I've been reading your posts, but for the tips "to click" I really need to sit down and practice every step.
Yes, thank you for mentioning my little technique in prior post. I was so happy to be able to figure out some of the steps, but I was wondering if someone else tried the exact same thing, and never posted anything. I just feel I don't want to take credit for something it might not be originally mine, but I do hope someone can find it useful :)
Your blog looks great, and I feel I should spend sometime and use my blog (still in construction) to provide a few tips about needle and Japanese hook tatting.
Laura, a lot of the techniques, methods, tweaks in the tatting world may well have already been done. But as long as we have figured something out all on our own, I don't see why we can't post it. And as I mention time & again, the one I am posting may not be the Only one ... it's just what I am comfortable with, or I have worked out, .... (the 'T' in 'T*I*P*S stands for 'This Works for Me') so I don't want to step on anybody's toes, yet would like to share what I feel is my own work. And where I have been inspired or have resourced, then I definitely give credit & add a link.
DeleteI do hope you start your own blog :-) There is still a dearth of needle tatting resources & tutorials. You can make a excellent contribution. I'm sure the same holds true for hook tatting.
Thanks again, for browsing the blog :-)))
Muskaan, these cluny ideas are fantastic! Bookmarking this page for future reference. I have never been much interested in clunies, but your inspiring ideas might make me change my mind about this technique, who knows?!
ReplyDeleteMarilee, You are an inspiration to me !! I’m so glad you found these interesting & am sure you will come up with some spectacular pieces if you use/experiment/explore further. Thank you for your kind words :-)
DeleteWow! Another amazing post on clunies :). The possibilities are endless! I look forward to reading more about your cluny adventures :). Still trying to find time to give clunies another go :). Thanks for sharing muskaan :).
ReplyDeleteThanks Jenn :-) So true - the possibilities are indeed endless .... and these are just the prototypes that I've shared. Imagine if one really explore deeply & diversely !
DeleteYou've written another fascinating post! I'm not ready to take the plunge with Clunies yet, but you are getting me more interested in them!
ReplyDelete"so near yet so far" .... Oh well, we can't always be successful Cluny proselytisers ;-P
DeleteThanks Diane, I'm glad you at least enjoyed the journey & didn't turn back merely because it was a technique you don't prefer :-)
Amazing
ReplyDeleteThanks, Janina :-) Glad you enjoyed it & hope you try them out :-)
Delete
ReplyDeletethank you
سعودي اوتو
most welcome :-)
DeleteAll lovely cluny ideas muskaan. Wish I try out all. So far I tried only simple cluny. Thanks for this article.
ReplyDeleteI'm so glad you liked them, Usha :-))) Hope to see your workings ... Your comment reminded me that I still haven't blogged about the purple bracelet - it was going to be a rakhi with it's geometric shapes - and now we are at the doorsteps of another raksha bandhan ;-)
DeleteHave fun, Usha :-)
All lovely cluny ideas muskaan. Wish I try out all. So far I tried only simple cluny. Thanks for this article.
ReplyDeleteOops, seeing this comment a year later! Glad you liked the ideas, Usha, and hopefully you've tried a few during this year :-D Enjoy - I'm sure you'll come up with more ideas!
DeleteWow! When you posted this I was totally engrossed in finishing a quilt. I now have time to think again, and I just got a plastic cluny loom, so I'll be experimenting along the lines you suggested. Need to read the posts on 5 and 4 warps first. Thanks so much!
ReplyDeleteGood for you, Just4tatts ! A loom does help greatly when working broader clunies. Enjoy your experimentation & don't forget the 'one small step' :-)))
Delete