My thoughts
Love Celtic tatting ?
Need to make Interlocking Rings ?
Can only shuttle-tat ?
I consider myself fortunate that tatters before me have
openly shared all their experiences, trials & techniques on the net, so
that we do not have to reinvent the wheel. Instead, we can simply read/watch/learn
& then pick & adopt whichever technique suits us best !
This is exactly what happened with Interlocking Rings (IRs)
Ever since I laid eyes on Celtic/Irish tatting, I was
enamoured by the interweaves & overlaps ! Took me a while to realize that
tools & techniques, other than my normal shuttle, were required . Since I
am a shuttler, I needed to find tuts/techs that taught how to make IRs using a
shuttle, & not needle.
First stop :
An initial search led me to a
step-by-step pictorial by Sue for InterlockingSCMRs using shuttle.
I tried very hard but failed – my SCMRs kept “opening up” as soon as I looked
away ! Hence, shelved for later, & on with more searching …
Second stop :
Karen’s video tut on Single Shuttle Interlocking Rings . Finally got the hang of making overlapping rings. However, try as I might, I could still not get that last ring to overlap correctly ! Notice the last ring in adjoining image - Both sides are going under the adjacent rings !
Karen’s video tut on Single Shuttle Interlocking Rings . Finally got the hang of making overlapping rings. However, try as I might, I could still not get that last ring to overlap correctly ! Notice the last ring in adjoining image - Both sides are going under the adjacent rings !
After many trials,
some ending in the dustbin, I renewed my internet search.
Third stop :
Wow ! I found Jon’s write-up & diagram explaining how to get that “pesky” little final ring to overlap correctly. Without Jon’s diagram, I had almost given up.
Wow ! I found Jon’s write-up & diagram explaining how to get that “pesky” little final ring to overlap correctly. Without Jon’s diagram, I had almost given up.
Armed with these trials, I attempted Frivole’s Rose & Crown motif. This motif was the immediate motivation to advance my learning in the first place!
Attempt 1:
( Anchor size 20 Cadmium Orange
4054-0307 shade )
The IRs overlapped
correctly, but there seemed to be a tightness in the center. That called for
another attempt.
Attempt 2 :
( Anchor size 20 Purple 4054-0101 ) .
Yay ! I was happy
with this trial. Although all tutorials pointed out that each subsequent ring
needs to be started without leaving any space, I found that if I left a tiny
length (just about 1 mm only) before starting the next ring, it helped to keep the
structure even & lie ‘flat’.
Fourth stop :
The above motifs were done a few weeks back & I went on to other things. Suddenly I chanced upon Another tutorial – this one by Kathy. I quickly scanned through the 2-part detailed pictorial & pinned it for future reference, if necessary.
The above motifs were done a few weeks back & I went on to other things. Suddenly I chanced upon Another tutorial – this one by Kathy. I quickly scanned through the 2-part detailed pictorial & pinned it for future reference, if necessary.
Then, while working on a free-form bracelet, I made an
“error” which caused the ring to twist a bit & also caused the next ring to
overlap !!! That reminded me of Kathy’s pictorial & off I went to check it
out in depth & put it to practice. Interlocking Rings made with Shuttle part 1 & Interlocking Rings made with Shuttle part 2
Attempts 3 & 4 :
( Anchor size 20. #3 : Maroon 022 ; #4 : Royal Blue 4054-0133)
I started on the 3rd motif ( Anchor size 20 Maroon 022 ) directly. Kathy’s
technique was so very simple & easy to remember !!! And the IRs came out
perfectly. I did have to leave the 1mm thread space though.
I was so excited that I started a 4th motif in
Royal Blue 4054-0133. Successful again.
Some notes based on my experiences :
Leave a 1 mm, or less, thread space before starting subsequent
rings. This works for me.
Karen’s technique:
- This video opened the door to my shuttle-made IRs.
- One has to remember to make the loose half stitch before closing each ring. There were numerous occasions when I forgot & had to open up the ring & accommodate that posting of shuttle with half stitch.
- For the life of me I could Not get that last ring to overlap in same direction.
Jon's diagram:
- An extended explanation to Karen's video. Hence, one follows Karen's method but works the last ring based on Jon's diagram & clarification. That diagram is a life-saver if I can be dramatic ;-))
Kathy’s technique:
- Easiest to follow & apply.
- One does not have to remember to make half-st & post shuttle before closing each ring - major advantage!
- One is basically tatting on the ‘wrong side’ & the rings are then kind of ‘flipped’ or rotated to get them in position. But it all comes together beautifully.
- I agree with her about keeping the starting tail intact. It helps in identifying the 1st ring And its position & overlap of subsequent rings. I had done this through All my attempts.
There is just one drawback to Kathy's method, if I can call it that. One has
to unwind the shuttle before starting last ring, & then rewind it again.
This can get a bit tiring if one has to make a large number of motifs with IRs.
This can be easily taken care of as follows :.
This can be easily taken care of as follows :.
TIP : Get an idea of the length of thread required to make
that one last ring. Unwind this length + a bit extra, & cut the thread. Tat
the last ring with this length. (It is up to the tatter if s/he wishes to rewind
this length or simply forge ahead without rewinding.) Once the last ring is
closed, tie, cut & hide ends.
You still have plenty of thread in the shuttle to start the
next set of IRs ! So, basically, one can start with a fully loaded
bobbin/shuttle & make many IR motifs before the thread runs out, instead of
winding only for each motif.
Motif #3 for 25 Motif Challenge
