Quick TIPS : Winding Threads & Yarns !

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4 Quick Ways

to wind thread/yarn for use in 2-shuttle tatting ;

track a multicolour yarn stash palette for crochet/knitting ; &,

convert hanks/balls into skeins for embroidery.

I. Winding Thread, CTM

Inspiration : Susan BT

All these years, I had been tatting with one shuttle & ball directly. I would buy at least 2 balls of same colour so that the shuttle could be loaded from one ball, while the 2^nd ball stayed attached to the work being tatted. It reduces the number of ends to hide, too, especially when working with single colour & long edgings, etc.

But when I started tatting with 2 shuttles, & the pattern asked for Continuous Thread Method (CTM), I would measure the length of thread required for shuttle #2, cut it from the ball, & then start winding the shuttle from this end.

Obviously, long lengths meant taking care of all the tangling; one had to work in a large open space to keep the thread from entanglement.

Then I came across this idea shared by Susan, on the erstwhile InTatters : she uses a cardboard to “hold” the thread ….. Read on …

All you need :

Shuttles – 2 &  Thread , of course.

A cardboard, a broad thread winder or a temporary ‘holder’ (I used my spectacle case )

When winding 2 shuttles CTM : 

Fig 1.

Fig 2.

After winding 1^st shuttle normally, continue winding the thread on another piece of cardboard or, in my case, I used my reading glass case which was at hand (Fig 1). Wind to desired length. When one knows the length of 1 complete circle around the holder, then the number of rotations/rounds will give you the total length !

Cut thread. (Fig 2).

Fig 3.

Now reverse-wind from holder, starting from the cut end, on to the 2^nd shuttle, till all the thread on the ‘holder’ is over (Fig 3)! Simple !!!

Advantages :

1. No Long tangle-prone threads to manage ! Winding is easy, smooth & fluid.
2. No twisting or knotting of thread while winding. Since there is ‘reverse’ winding from holder back to shuttle #2, the initial twisting gets neutralized to a large extent.
3. Any possible twisting can be Easily taken care of by suspending Shuttle #2 itself. With a loose end, it becomes difficult !
4. And the Icing on the Cake : No more measuring with arm span or measuring tape …. One can measure the required length by simply counting the number of winds on the holder !!! The holder acts as a Gauge.

eg. one complete round around my spectacle case = 6½’ ;

40 rounds = 260’ or 6.6m

This is just enough to fully load the bobbin of the blue plastic Shuttle #2 in fig !

For my steel Shuttle #1, where I now use sewing bobbins, 45 rounds are required.

And clearly, if one needs a specific shorter length, that can be easily calculated. All one needs to know is the length of 1 single complete wind around the winder/holder. And then simply keep count of the number of rounds one is winding !!!

Check out Carollyn's superb tip here, when using 2 colours together ....

My sincere thanks to Susan for this simple, yet practical & effective idea, & for allowing me to share it here.

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II. Quick & Handy Yarn Stash Samplers

Inspiration : Lucy (Attic 24)

Since I’m talking about threads, organization & winding, here’s another quick tip I’d like to share.

I first came across it here. Since I do not have the wooden clothes pegs she uses, I took the first thing that came to hand : index cards from days of yore !

Simply Cut & Folded them into strips.

Wound samples of wool around part of it.

Hid the starting end as I began winding ; hid the tail end by pulling/pushing through the center of the folded paper.

Wrote the amount of thread I had on top (I did not mention the weight coz do not require it).

Wrote some additional details such as brand, dye & lot details wherever necessary, within the fold. One can write any and all details wherever & as one wishes…. This was not part of my current requirement, hence I limited the details to suit my current project.

My intention in doing this is very simply to track all the possible ‘scrap’ colours so that I can decide the combos as well as sequence when I crochet the diamonds/squares.

And it has worked very well !!! I do not have to keep rummaging through the whole big carton of wool to find combinations ; simply choose from the strips & then pick out the ball.

TIP : Another level of organization : The balls are sorted according to main colour & kept in transparent bags inside the carton. eg. all blue shades in one, all purple shades in another, all brown shades in a third, & so on.

The immediate reason for this organization is the Floral Fiesta Afghan designed by Maggie Weldon I have started for this winter, the reason I needed to see the yarns & shades I wanted to use & their approximate quantity. More about the project in future .

I thank & highly recommend Lucy's blog Attic 24 for the sheer magic & inspiration of her colour palette artistry ! Lots to learn, too.

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III. From Hanks to Skeins !

In keeping with this “thread”, here is my answer to a query Deepa left in this post on how to convert hanks into balls :“Now I am wondering how to convert a hank to small skeins, as in embroidery threads. There must be some way to wind them in that manner as anchor or DMC does.”

All you need :

Hanks of embroidery thread

Cardboard (6.5 inches across)

Paper strips/tags

Glue & scissors

Pearl-headed Pins for 2^nd technique.

An Anchor Embroidery skein is 8m long with about 24 ½ complete rounds, where the diameter (or length from end to end) is 6.5’ or 16.5”.

[ (6.5’ x 2) x 24.5 rounds ] = almost 8m

1. Using Cardboard :

  

The lid of a tea bag carton is the exact length one wants (6.5 inches) as can be seen in the pic.

Wind around (I used wool so that each round is easily visible); trying to keep each round adjacent rather than jumbled up. After 24 ½ rounds, cut thread. Make sure to keep the finishing tail end visible, towards the outer side, so that one can tug at it easily. The starting end is neatly hidden in the depths.

If thread details are required, add a paper tag around the newly wound skein.

2. Using Headed Pins :

Pearl-headed pins are used, spaced at 6.5’, around which the thread is wound. Use at least 2 pins at each end for stability.

To start off, make a small open knot & hold it with a pin, otherwise this end will keep flopping about & one will not get a tightly wound skein.

The slip of white paper is for the tag, with details written on the side that is hidden from view. When the 24.5 rounds are complete, glue the tag paper around the skein, like a hollow cylinder, & carefully remove the pins on either side. Voila !

It is easier to tag when using pins, obviously.

  

You can wind it in the form of ‘8’, but I would suggest against it – it will be a bit difficult to pull out the thread when needed later.

I hope this is of some help, Deepa ? For some lovely embroidery & related tutorials, check out  her blog “This and that...my random thoughts” for some lovely embroidery & tutorials.

****************

Have a great day :-)

Related Post : Winding Shuttles CTM

Perpendicular Concentric/Onion Rings

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Tatting Tutorial

I am taking a short break from the Deconstructing Patterns from Magic Square series to post a couple of tutorials. Will return to it soon.

The following is an elaborate, step-by-step explanation of how I did the perpendicular arrangement of Josephine Rings for the centre & buds in the Tiny Heart Poppy flower I shared here.

Perpendicular Arrangement of Concentric Josephine Rings

My tutorial involves Josephine Rings in 2 types of Concentric Arrangement :

        I.      Normal/Flat, same-plane, concentric Josephine Rings, &

     II.      Perpendicular, two-plane, concentric Josephine Rings

I have not tried this with normal rings because they are not as dense & hence tend to be more floppy than JRs. However, with metallic or nylon threads, this might be overcome. Secondly, the shape may not be as circular as a JR.

It, may , however, be worth a try ….  Maybe with Padded Stitch Rings ?!

Abbreviations/terms Used :

JR – Josephine Ring ; hitch – half stitch ; SSSJR – Single Shuttle Split Josephine Ring

I. Normal Concentric/Onion Rings 

Normally, in concentric rings (onion rings), after making the 1^st ring, one would start the 2^nd  or outer ring by forming the loop around the periphery of inner ring, in the Same Plane (in geometric terms). These are the ‘normal’, ‘flat’ onion rings we come across. So if the 1^st ring is in the horizontal plane, then the 2^nd ring that goes around it, will also be in the horizontal plane.

Refer to Figs 1 & 2 below . I have used size 20 yellow thread .

Fig 1

Fig 2

Start with normal JR1 - 10 hitches. Close ring. 

JR2 - 21 hitches . Close ring. 

This is how they will look when both JRs are closed. They lie in same plane, flat, and are like normal ‘onion’ rings, except that we’re working with Josephine Rings here.

This set has been made for comparison purpose only.

II. Perpendicular Concentric/Onion Rings

In this case, the 2 concentric/onion rings are in 2 different planes geometrically. Each plane is at right angles (90˚) to the other. Hence these can be termed as Vertical or Perpendicular  Concentric/Onion Rings.

Fig 3

For clarity, I used size 10 variegated thread here, such that the 2 rings come out in different colours (inner white & outer pink).

JR1 - 15  (white). Close ring. (adjacent Fig 3)

JR2 - 21. Before starting JR2, hold JR1 at base and bring the shuttle thread in front, to 'midpoint' of JR1 & make loop over and across the base ring, (but around the inner ring for final overlap). Figs 4 & 5 below.

Basically, one is turning JR1 at a 90° angle on Y axis. 

Fig 4

Fig 5

Fig 6

Fig 7

Start JR2. Fig 6 shows 3 hitches made.

Continue, counting the hitches as you go, till you reach the top of the inner ring. This is the approximate halfway point, & the outer ring will now start to descend on the other side of JR1. Fig 7.

The number of total hitches needed for Outer JR may vary with thickness of thread used, one’s own tension, etc. Hence, it is a good thing to count upto this halfway point, to get some idea of how many more hitches are needed to complete the outer ring such that the inner ring is snuggly enclosed/enwrapped. (for instance, when using size 20 yellow in my Tiny Heart Poppy, I required only 15 hitches to complete JR2 when JR1 was 10 hitches)

Thumb Rule for calculating number of hitches required for Outer Ring (JR2) :

Twice the number of hitches upto halfway point + Hitches needed to span the inner ring top hitches on both sides).

Thus, in this case, JR2 = (8x2) + 5 = 21 hitches

Fig 8

Now that JR2 is complete, slowly start to close ring, keeping the inner ring in position, sitting snuggly within the outer ring. Fig. 8 above.

Fig 9

Fig 9 shows the Perpendicular Concentric JRs from various angles. I made another in white (size 10) & one in yellow (size 20) & all 3 sit comfortably within a shuttle bobbin !

Tabular Comparison of Concentric / Onion Josephine Rings

(refer to Fig 10 below)

Normal Concentric/Onion Rings	Perpendicular Concentric/Onion Rings
All rings in same plane	Rings in different planes
Ring2 is made Around the periphery of Ring1	Ring 2 goes Over & Across/Around Ring 1
2 Dimensional effect	3 Dimensional effect
Rings lie flat (180˚ between 2 rings)	Rings are perpendicular or at an angle to each other (90˚ between for 2 rings)
View from top : only single line seen	View from top : 2 lines crossing at right angle

 

Fig 10

Some  Possibilities & Ideas

1. As beads ! Immense possibilities. Can be made with metallic, nylon, or silk threads .

Use within other motifs/medallions/braids, or as a string of tatted ‘pearls’. One can go from one perpendicular concentric JR bead to the next via a chain or thread space.

2. OR make the outer ring SSSJR ( I’ve tried this SSSJR & it works ) !

3. Add a medium-sized bead in center of JR1 and then make JR2 .

4. Medium bead in center and 3 overlapping JRs using thin thread ? 

5. Make perpendicular JRs, but JR2 as split ring, then add bead, … repeat with alternate JRs & beads to desired length, for a mixed tatted 'bead' and seed bead necklace.

6. Use different colours for each JR and / or bead.

7. For JR2, add a few variably padded hitches on top variably for graded effect.

8. Add decorative picots on outer JR for lacy / flowery effect.

9. In Tiny Heart Poppy, I used Jane Eborall’s Josephine Ring technique for the outer JR in buds. Love the woven texture, although difficult to photograph clearly ! This, along with auxiliary thread, increased the size of the buds.

10. Extension of the Technique to other elements : How about using Block Tatting to complete a turn around itself, & joined to the beginning, to form a cylindrical hollow ?!!

These are just a few of my thoughts. I’m sure all you creative talented tatters will come up with plenty more :-)

Now I really must get an appointment for a manicure … sorry for the grossness ! My earlier set of pics, with smoother shinier skin, had to be discarded coz the threads didn’t work well.

I will, next, describe & illustrate how I used auxiliary thread to make the buds in the 3D Poppy referred to above. It is a simple technique solution ...

  

Deconstructing Patterns 2

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Triangulated Tessellation of a Magic Square !

The earlier post pulled out motifs from the magic square hat. Here, I tackle triangles.
I used the version 1 of the free pattern from here

The bold fonts are all hyperlinks to respective sites/blogs. Click on the word(s).
Abbreviations used : SR - Split Ring ; SSSR - Single Shuttle Split Ring ; SLT - Shoe lace trick

Fig 1. Magic Square in 4 colours !

Although the ultimate shape is a square, the progression of the Magic Square is in triangles, repeated to get a square,as can be seen in the above image! Jenn is currently working on it & you can see the progression on her blog.

Triangular / Corner Motifs

Triangular Motif #1

Fig 2.

Fig 2. This is how it all starts - with a single triangle – one quarter of the final square. I sewed this to the base of the neck on a dress I was sewing at the time. 

This same triangle, when folded on itself along the Y-axis, to form a ‘pocket’, can be used as a bookmark inserted in the corner of a page (from an observation by Judith Connors)!

danie7 shares her Tatted Corner & the page in the background shows how it can be used as a corner on a handkerchief, mat, etc.

Incidentally, Jon Yusoff, following the triangular pattern from “Tatting with Ann Orr”, went on to create a square from the 4 triangles, figuring it all out herself !  

In Fig 1 above, Each of these 4 triangles that go to make the square, are clearly visible due to the 4 colours used. I just went crazy coz it was the first time I’d bought & used variegated thread ! I tatted each triangle with 1 shuttle & ball.

Instead of 4 colours, though, one can only use 2 colours alternately, a single colour, variegated colours, …. 

Small Triangular Motif #2

Fig 3. Pinwheel Square

These triangles can be smaller, too, as can be seen in this ‘pinwheel’ version (drawing only). I hope to make this someday – love the effect ! 

Of course, one will have to take recourse to SLTs !!!

These 4 &/or 8 triangulated square versions remind one of quilting blocks, don't they ?! Well, wouldn’t these tatted ‘blocks’ create lovely large-sized projects !!!

Triangular Corner Motifs # 3 & #4

Fig 4.

Fig 4–A simple triangle done in one pass, using 2 colours. Can be started at any point.

Fig 4–B Also a simple one-pass triangle, but needs to be started at the ring indicated by arrow (since there is no chain to connect the 2 rings in the end).

Triangular Corner Motif #5 & Triangular Pendant 

Fig 5. Corner Motif & Pendant

Fig 5–A . Triangular Motif :Requires 2 shuttles in different colours. If this scheme is followed, then the orange rings with a white line in center are SSSRs.

Fig 5–B . Triangular Pendant. I’ve tried to show a triangle within a triangle here. It can all be done in one pass, with 2 shuttles. However, rings with black lines within, are SRs. 2 short chains have been added on either side, in order to connect to adjoining elements (rings). Beads can be added wherever desired, with the help of long picots, etc.

So, What  is  this Magic Square  ?! 

Very simply, it is a one pass motif made up solely of rings &chains, that can keep repeating itself to any desired length, weaving in & out in the form of triangles (a tessellation of triangles! It is all geometry & symmetry) to create larger square. It is very versatile, as already glimpsed through these 2 posts. It’s character can change with slight changes in the factors involved. For instance :

• Use 2 colours – one for chains & one for rings to get a totally different look ( Halibut04 & laceladie , in InTatters*, have used this very effectively !)
• Change the stitchcount just a tad. eg. Jenn is using Halibut’s stitchcount, which gives a slightly angular look because the chains are straighter.
• laceladie's frivolite 14 version from “Design Burda Frivolite”, is slightly denser due to fewer chains & larger rings.  
• Liv Strind  has created a very stylized kind of motif that is essentially the magic square with SRs. She has also adapted parts of the magic square very elegantly & stylishly to make many different projects including runner, mat, clutch purse, coaster, etc. You can also see her pins here & have fun identifying the derivatives !!!
• Check out these two exquisitely beautiful versions called the ‘Tatting Square Doily’. She has added an equally exquisite edging in the 2^nd one ! 
• Beautiful Shawls have been made using this pattern (or a slight variation in terms of stitch count). eg. Wedding Shawl by Jean Younkin et al using extended repeats and one made by SnapDragonLace
• Carollyn has a fantastic 3-colour version with small rings & lovely long arching chains. Would make a nice bookmark too !   
• Kristen has needle-tatted “Star No.2” from “Tatting: Patterns & Designs” by Blomqvist & Persson. This is again the small square motif deconstructed in this earlier post.
• Scroll down to 3^rd last pic in this post. Piece #9 is pic uses small square motif to create a gorgeous pastiche colourwise !
• Jane uses size 40 in 2 colours, & a slight variant of the pattern (as discussed in these posts, slight variations give interesting results)

UPDATE (Oct 2015) : The earliest example found so far is a triangular corner in Ann Orr, 1935 .
And there is a collated list of links for patterns, projects, discussions in Craftree titles Magic Square- Serpentine Square * I have updated all dysfunctional InTatters links ... Please let me know if you still encounter any broken links.

As to where this pattern first originated, I have not been able to gather any concrete evidence, despite seeking info, except that it has been around ‘forever’ & is in the public domain. Multiple sources have been cited by tatters, all of which I have included in appropriate places in the posts, along with the respective tatter’s name.

However, many people have tried to “decipher” the movement of the pattern through diagrams, etc. There are a few threads in InTatters* where quite some discussion has taken place. Here is all that I’ve been able to find so far.

In addition to all the links scattered in the 2 posts so far, here are some more links where this pattern has been ‘deciphered’, diagrammed, &/or discussed :

• Alice Wolska shares her diagram here 
• Jon Yusoff has shared her observations too (links already provided above)
• Rachel has used the pattern from Helen Chesno’s “Tatting Made Simple”. She shared this in a discussion, along with a notated square in this thread 
• Yet another forum thread that discusses this 
• A diagrammed & written explanation to make it easy to tat by seesawyer here  (updated Jan 2016)

My next post, here, deals with many possible edging &/or insertion patterns, along with my thoughts on tatting the Magic Square. And in the last post in this series, I will share a Bookmark pattern derived from this Magic Square.

Hope you remain interested :-))

Related Posts : Square Motifs from the Magic square
Edgings from Magic square & My tips/thoughts
Bookmark pattern from Magic Square

Update : Robin Perfetti has spawned a whole new series of brand new Magic Squares. Check out her Tutorials and Patterns pages for all links.

Her initiative inspired Jane McLellan and Ninetta Caruso to create their own magic squares.